via Australian
The evolutionary secret of how the dachshund got its short legs has been uncovered. Dachshunds, corgis, basset hounds and Pekingese are among the common breeds that owe their short legs to the mutation of a single gene that occurred several thousand years ago. The discovery offers insight into the way genetic mutations drive evolution and may have implications for understanding dwarfism in humans.
A team from the American National Human Genome Research Institute, in Maryland, examined DNA samples from 835 dogs from 76 breeds, including 95 animals with short legs. The scientists found that dogs from all the short-legged breeds had an extra copy of a gene that produces a growth protein called FGF4, which is known to be implicated in dwarfism in humans. The extra gene is a mutant of a type known as a retrogene, which lacks parts of the normal DNA code.
The extra retrogene leads to an overproduction of the FGF4 protein, which appears to alter the times at which bones grow in embryonic development. This, the scientists believe, causes the legs of small dogs to remain short and out of proportion to their bodies. The findings are published in the journal Science. As the same gene is shared between all the short-legged breeds of dog studied, the mutation is likely to have emerged early in the evolution of dogs.
Fossil evidence suggests dogs were first domesticated from wolves at least 14,000 years ago, and genetic evidence suggests the evolutionary split may have happened earlier than that. Eric Green, scientific director of the National Human Genome Research Institute, said the research shows how genetic information can help us to understand the course of evolution.
This was a scouting trip to a pet store. This Corgi and little Bassett pup took a second out of their frolic to see what the paparazzi were doing and then right back to the brawl!
I REALLY LOVE THIS ONE!
It was one of those very fun experiences that I blocked in quickly, liked how it looked and with a few checks from the client, I think it is one of my super fast masterpieces! 9x12 in oil.
My recent double portrait was a big success, so I used a picture of a different dog, equally soulful, for the diamond mini canvases.
EVEN A LOUD-MOUTHED HOUND CAN LEARN TO HUSH!
But... When facing fierce competition (instinct, drive, or breeding) you need the right tool for the job.
Dear Colleen,
The reason your "QUIET" command is not working outside is because (in its current state) it is not the right tool for the job.
Here is an analogy:
When hanging a new picture of my dog, I might take a shortcut. I'd take off my shoe and pound the nail into the wall using the heel. This works great! However, I am clearly NOT using the appropriate tool Now imagine you asked me to build a house, and that I set about pounding nails with my clog -stupid I agree, but I'm making a point. If I then came to you and told you that the house could not be built because I couldn't get the nails through the 2-by-4's you would likely point out that the "hammer" I was using was not really a hammer. If I was like many of my clients I would then argue, "No it works, I've done it lots, but these wood boards are being stubborn!" I don't fault clients that argue when I try to tell them that the command they think they have taught, really means nothing to their dog. Sometimes it really does look like our dogs are stubborn, but the truth is they just don't understand. This is a "tool" problem, NOT a dog problem.
I believe you. I am sure that your QUIET-command is working inside, just like my clog works on small nails and sheetrock. However, just because it works in some situations, does not prove that it means to your dog what you think it means. In fact, because it is NOT working outside at all we have pretty good proof that this is the case. It does NOT mean what you think it means. Confusing?
For you, QUIET means: Stop Barking.
But what you've taught your dog is: QUIET means I am going to make a really loud, scary noise.
This startles your dog, giving you the result you want -he stops barking. However, he has not learned to BE QUIET. Learning only happens when a behavior is expected to have a specific consequence because of a previous reward history. Here is a scientific fact. Behaviors that are reinforced (rewarded) go up in frequency. I am guessing you have NOT rewarded him with any tangible, valuable thing when he does shut up. This would mean that AFTER shaking the can, at the moment that your dog stops barking, you must praise him like mad and then give him a huge, wonderful treat.
Your Training looks like this:
"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt)
Quiet = Loud Noise.
The loud noise is either, simply a distraction that gets your dog's attention, thereby interrupting the barking. Or, the loud noise is aversive to your dog. Aversive-actions make behavior go down in frequency, but your dog still does not know what QUIET means. He just knows that QUIET is the clue that something aweful is about to happen next, so he stops barking to buckle for the storm of crazy sounds. Either way all you have done is classically conditioned your dog that QUIET predicts the inevitable loud noise.
What you need is:
"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt) ----> "GOOD-BOY" (marks success) ----> REWARD (reinforces behavior)
In this equation the noise is a startle/distraction that makes a certain behavior happen (still and quiet dog). Now you have an opportunity to TEACH your dog that the Praise & Treat come after QUIET & after they STOP barking. You need to re-teach this to your dog INSIDE, Then you can apply it outside. When your dog is outside his hunting motivation out-weighs his concern about the scary, loud noise. Your dog is just more motivated to bay and bark (instinct and drive contribute) than he is concerned with a scary noises when he is in hunting mode. Incidentally this could be in his genes too; hunting dogs that startle to loud noises, like guns, when on the hunt make for poor hunting dogs. For now start calling your dog a LOT when outside and praise and treat him. Do this BEFORE he is in HUNT-mode AND practice QUIET (with the above improvements) inside.
For more on this read my post on TRAINING A DOG WITH STRONG INSTINCTS>>>> Click here.
WHAT TO DO -INSTALLING A "QUIET!" COMMAND... that your dog can understand!
Fill a container with some VERY, TASTY DOG TREATS (I recommend using dehydrated beef or chicken liver).
- When your dog barks, say "HUSH!" -You only need to say this once! You can use QUIET, but remember that already has a previously conditioned response (buckle for the storm), so I would pick a new word :)
- Then as fast as you can, find the cookie-can. Start rattling the cookie-can. This is NOT to scare your dog, but to EXCITE THEM --COOKIE-TIME!!!
- Start moving towards your dog (wherever they are barking) show them the goodies. While still shaking the jar, try to lure them away from the door, window or hallway. Lead them to a bed or dog-mat.
- Give your dog one TREAT right away.
- Grab 5-more treats, but hold onto them in your hand.
- Have your dog do some really easy "nerdy-obedience." Pick a favorite trick or do the easy stuff: sit, down -NOTHING HARD!!!!
- Give your dog a treat for each correct answer.
- Do this for 1-2 weeks.
*Try to lead your dog to the same spot each time.
When your dog beats you to the bed or dog-mat... (Or, starts booking it to the spot when you say HUSH!)
- Spill 5-10 treats on the bed or dog-mat.
- Don't make them do any "nerdy-obedience."
- Repeat this for 1-2 weeks.
- Alternate between "nerdy-obedience" if you have to lure them there or go get them & SPILL-TREATS if they beat you there.
Now for Grad School....
- If they book it to the spot when you say "HUSH!" Give them the SPILL.
- If they bark just once after you say, "HUSH!" slam the cookie jar shut and walk off in a huff (no cookies).
