Dogs don't have an agenda.  There is no such thing as a "bad dog."  

There are dogs who bite, but it's not their fault that they have big teeth and jaws.  Nor is it their fault that we like that about them and decided to let them live intimately with us.  Furthermore, all dogs can and will eventually bite if hurt badly enough, scared badly enough, or threatened.  

Generally when people say they have a "bad dog," what they mean to say is that they have an untrained dog.  Just keep in mind that untrained, under-motivated, or under-exercised does not mean BAD!

Often when I meet clients and their dogs for the first time I am more concerned with putting everyone at ease.  And sometimes when I'm out and about I avoid telling people I am a trainer.  Such a stigma comes with my profession...people immediately get weird with their dogs, get embarrassed by them being dogs, or worse, start "showing off" how strict they can be.  I loathe strict when its obvious the dog has NO CLUE what the person wants.  

I happen to love a clever, rascally dog.  There is nothing as cute to me a dog being naughty.  

This doesn't mean I approve of dogs who bite, or bark, or steal toys, etc. But you have to admit, I'd be a really poor trainer if naughty behavior made me lose my mind instead of bringing a smile to my face.  

If you can't appreciate it, you won't want to look at it.  If you can't look at it, in detail, you won't ever know it well enough to change it.

Love your DOG!

Honor their doginess.

Appreciate them for what they are.

Happy Holidays!

Reward-based training does NOT mean that dogs never get in trouble...

Punishment can be used to make certain behaviors disappear.  By definition a punishment is anything that makes a behavior go down in frequency.  Punishments do NOT need to be traumatic, or physically uncomfortable for your dog.  Punishments, like time-outs serve as a consequence for naughty behavior without hurting, scaring, or upsetting your dog.

When rewards are given (+) trainers say they are using Positive Reinforcement (R+).  Treats, toys, and access are all examples of GIVING REWARDS

When rewards or freedom is taken away (-) trainers are using Negative Punishment (P-).  Time-outs, Attention removal, leashing, tethering and games of tug or fetch ending are all examples of HUMANE PUNISHMENTS.

Both R+ and P- are considered humane by the dog.  I NEVER hurt dogs that I train.  I have never found it necessary!  Timing-out a dog is all that is needed to teach them to STOP certain behaviors.

The following are considered "unpleasant" to dogs.  Things that hurt may be successful in teaching a dog to STOP certain behaviors.  However they have additional risks.  Furthermore, Hurting an animal that is AFRAID is NEVER, EVER APPROPRIATE!!!

Positive Punishment does not mean (+) as in GOOD!!!!  Positive (+) means ADDED.  A Positive Punishment make behavior go down (all punishers drive behavior DOWN) because of something YUCKY ADDED (shock, slap, leash pop).  Dogs find P+ unpleasant!

Negative Reinforcement does not mean (-) as in bad!!!!  Negative (-) means subtracted.  A Negative Reinforcer makes behavior go up (all reinforcers drive behavior UP) because of something YUCKY ENDING (choking stops, ear pinch stops, pinning ends).  Dogs find R- unpleasant!  They comply with commands taught by R- because if they do not the yucky stuff continues to happen.  Only when they sit, stop barking, or lay down does the torture end.

TIMING OUT A DOG

1. Mark it!  It is important to catch your dog attempting to do something naughty.  If you are late, or missed the naughty behavior there is nothing you can do, but admonish yourself.  If you do catch your dog in the act, give a big, loud "Too-bad!" or "Uh-oh!"
2. Immediately follow the marker with action.  Be calm and deliberate.  Remember you are trying to bum your dog out, not freak them out!
3. Remove your dog from what they were enjoying.

If your dog was getting attention and then jumped on a guest, stop petting the dog.  Walk out of the room or lead the dog to a leash that is secured to a wall, door or banister.  Clip the dog and walk away.  Say as little as possible:  "Too-bad."  Get dog, clip walk, walk away for 5-10 seconds.  Unclip the dog.  Repeat if necessary.

If your dog jumps to steal food, mark-it and time-out your dog for 5-10 seconds.  Shut your dog in the bathroom, or put the dog on a tie-down

If your dog was naughty while playing off-leash, mark-it and then leash your dog.  Leave the park after 3-strikes.

If your puppy nipped while playing, mark it (Ouch!), drop the toy and walk away.  End the game after 3-strikes.

If your puppy fails to perform a known command, such as sit, mark it and DO NOT GIVE YOUR DOG A SECOND CHANCE.  Put the toy down, or put the treat back in the jar.  Even toss the bone into the crate, but shut the dog out so they can't get it.

NEVER PUNISH (even with time-outs)  Growling, Snarling or Fighting.  These behaviors are likely rooted in fear.  Contact a certified trainer who can help you apply Classical Conditioning to fix the underlying fear.

Before your puppy reaches 4-months of age they should be comfortable having food, toys, and food items (bones, kongs, bowls) taken away.  This training is most successful when started early.  Ideally the puppy’s owner’s/guardian’s will encourage a wide variety of people to participate in these exercises daily until the puppy is 6-months to 1-year of age.

Sleep-Startle:  Letting your dog sleep on the couch, bed, or chairs does not make your dog a location-guarder.  Dog's who are genetically or behaviorally prone to guarding can and will learn to guard whatever they have access to, such as their dog bed.  Preventing guarding is not possible using management only (i.e. never letting your dog on the couch).  

I am especially prone to do these exercises with dog breeds that sleep deeply and get dug-into locations.  Hounds are notorious for liking warm, snugly locations and for disliking being disturbed while sleeping.  To prevent your dog from guarding locations you will need to complete several exercises including teaching your dog to LOVE being startled awake.

• Wait until your dog is sleeping soundly.
• Toss a pillow, sock, or other soft object at your dog's body.
• As soon as it hits your dog, cheer wildly.
• While cheering begin making your way to the cookie jar.
• Give your dog (or toss a treat if they did not move).  Make sure the treat is something really, really special.  I suggest dried meat, cheese, or a very, very large tasty dog treat that is soft and stinky.
• Repeat this often until your dog practically wags his tail and charges to the cookie jar once startled awake.
• Try loud noises next.
• Try petting your dog while it sleeps.
• Never punish growling.  If your dog ever growls, stiffens, snarls, or stares at you, contact a trainer immediately.

Bowl-Approach:  Teach your dog that people, hands, and faces (especially if you have kids) that approach their bowl are a good thing!  Dogs GUARD valuable things.  All dogs are natural guarders unless they have been deliberately bred to have less guarding.  Even with careful breeding genetic variations are a natural occurrence and it would not be impossible for two non-guarding dogs to produce some puppies that have a higher propensity to guard.  Punishment a dog for guarding will VERY LIKELY make the guarding worse.  Instead, plan ahead and begin some prevention exercises when your puppy is still young.

• When your puppy is eating, approach the food bowl and drop a tasty treat into the bowl.
• Then walk away.
• Repeat 2-3 times during the same meal.
• Repeat this until your dog wags her tail as she sees you approach.  This may take 10-20 feedings.
• Make sure your puppy is giving you a loose, wiggly, wag!
• When you are confident that your puppy likes this game, change the rules.
• Approach the bowl and add nothing.
• Approach again, touch your puppy, Feed!
• Approach again, and DO NOT TOUCH your puppy, non food.
• Repeat this every time you feed your puppy, until your pup only gets excited when you pet her.
• Change the rules again.  Push your puppy's head away from the bowl, FEED!
• Approach again, but only pet your puppy's back.  No Food!
• Approach again, push and feed.

Object-exchange:  When your dog has a toy, they should be willing to let you take their toy.  Growling is OK in play, but should not be accompanied by a stiff body, hard stare or any snarling (teeth show).  One great way to teach your dog to drop an item on request is by playing tug!  In addition to playing tug, teach your dog to LOVE having objects taken away.

• When your dog has a toy or bone approach your dog with a treat or another favorite toy.
• Temp your dog with the food or the "live" ball that you have.
• As soon as your dog drops their bone or toy, praise them.
• Reward your dog with a short game of tug or with the food treat immediately.
• Repeat often.
• When your dog catches on to this game, add a command.  Drop, Leave, Out are all common names for this command.  Say the command then tempt your dog.  If they get it right, praise and reward.
• If they do not drop the toy, walk away.  Try again.

Bone/Kong Swap: Feeding a dog with a Kong is a great way to make food-time into a energy burner.  I like to stuff all of my dogs daily calories into Kongs and to feed several Kongs each day.  Kongs are a great way to keep my puppies, busy, quiet and out of trouble.  Because the Kong is a valuable toy & a food-delivery device, dogs can become possessive over theirs Kongs.  Teach your dog that when you take the Kong, it is worth it!

• While your puppy is eating her kong, take the Kong away.
• Go to your kitchen and add something extra tasty to the top of the Kong -cream cheese, chicken baby food, peanut butter...
• Return the improved Kong to your pup.

Couch-Removal:  I like to teach dogs to LOVE being grabbed by the collar.  This is especially important for a dogs safety and for good relations in the home.  I do allow my dogs on my bed, couch, and other furniture.  The only rule is that they must get off if asked and they must tolerate my pushing and pulling them around and out of my way.

• Grab your puppy's collar and lead them 1-2 steps in any direction.
• Praise your pup the entire time.
• Then give your puppy a yummy treat.
• Repeat over and over again.
• Gently nudge your puppy with your feet, praise & treat!
• Say, "Off!" then grab your pup's collar.
• Guide them gently off the couch and praise them.
• Give your dog a treat.
• Never punish your dog if they growl!
• Contact a certified trainer immediately if your puppy growls or snaps at you.

Pet Products Review - Wet Nose Pressed Natural Rawhide Bone by Castor & Pollux

It's the holiday season, and everyone knows pets like stocking stuffers too.  Thats why to my surprise I noticed my local mom & pop pharmacy started to sell select organic pet food and treats from a company called Castor & Pollux.  I could not resist getting Champ a 6" natural pressed rawhide bone.  And at $1.50 it was a no brainer.

Well, it's a no brainer, dogs love rawhide.  Champ loves to not only chew his raw hide bones, but collect them and bring them into his bed for protection.  The Wet Nose Pressed Rawhide was no exception. Best of all, I like how a % of my purchase of Champ's new bone went to the Pet & Soul Foundation of charities.

So my word of the day is keep your eyes open for Wet Nose treats by Castor & Pollux next time you're shopping for sundries.  Or, go to their website www.castorpolluxpet.com for a great selection of affordable and healthy foods and treats. 

If you've got a product you think will pass the Secret Shopper test, send an email to SecretShopperBlog@gmail.com

I am over The Alpha Role!  

The photo was taken while two dogs were PLAYING!

Notice that the Pitt Bull is NOT touching the Shepherd.  The Shepherd offered this submissive role in play.  Also note the raised paw of the Pittie -she is NOT pinning the shepherd or holding him down!  The Shepherd is mock-groveling because these two dogs were doing what I call "playing house."  They dug a den, had a play-fight, humped, chased, dug and had another small mock-domestic dispute.  In this photo Frank-e, the Shepherd, is rehearsing an apology (maybe he dragged dirt into the den who knows!)  The point is and apology by definition can't be FORCED!  An apology is OFFERED!!!!!  

Humans Get It WRONG AGAIN!  

Today at the dog park, I saw a man viciously pin his dog to the ground.   He squeezed the 40lb. dog by the neck with he slammed to the ground while pinning the dog's chest with his knee.  I have learned that free advice is not always taken well and rather than be punishing, I simply walked away.  Many others walked away as it was uncomfortable to watch.  

You must be wondering what did his dog do?  The offense was normal and healthy dog communication.  There was no damage, no fight, the dog simply growled and snapped at another big, rambunctious dog for coming near his ball.  His owner creamed his dog for this, but did he teach his dog not to do that?  We can't be sure.  Learning is a CHANGE in behavior, we would have to be in a similar situation and observe what the dog chose to do next time.  

My concern is that the dog who was "corrected" may have been so terrified by his owner that he was unable to make a connection between his behavior (a normal dog communication) and the punishment.  What he might have learned was a simpler equation.  Dogs coming near = trouble.  Therefore, keep dogs away before they get close.  I have seen the outcome of this in many dogs.  It starts off with a dog who will growl at a dog for coming near the ball when they have it and snow-balls into a dog that lunges and attacks any dog that comes within 10 feet of their ball.

It is over-used, over-done and I am OVER IT!

But you don't have to take my word for it.  Experts (lots of them) agree.

See what Wikipedia says...