Grooming guide for dogs and puppies
 
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(see also: dog grooming)

Pet Products Review - RapidBath Pet Bathing System by HydroSurge

 

Today you're in luck because my post is one with two opinions.  The good people at Hydro Surge a division of Jarden Consumer Solutions asked me to sample their new RapidBath Pet Bathing System.  I was excited to try this product because I trust the famous brands and products of Jarden.  They seem to know exactly the appliance that makes my life easier.

rapid bath system

The RapidBath Pet Bathing System is an interesting contraption in that it aims to give you the power and convenience afforded to professional dog groomers.  RapidBath allows you to wet, wash and rinse in one hand-held unit. Designed to bath in 3 minutes or less, the RapidBath system cuts the time, hassle and mess out of bathing your pet.

The manufacturer writes:  "The system includes a dog grooming sprayer and adapter that connects to any standard home shower or outdoor faucet, allowing the versatility of indoor/outdoor use. The sprayer functions in just one hand and features 3 settings: low, high, and bathe. Hidden inside the handle are integrated shampoo cartridges which automatically draws and distributes highly concentrated shampoo while you bath your pet. The result is easier, less messy baths for both you and your pet."  The cost of the RapidBath Pet Bathing System is $69.99 and can be purchased at www.petsmart.com or any PetSmart location.

Well let me tell you, I had a very hard time finding a shower or outdoor faucet that actually fit the RapidBath system. It did not fit my shower nor our outdoor faucet.  Finally I ended up trying the unit in my building's laundry utility sink.  I have to admit the system did not quite fit that faucet either and I'm sure it negatively affected the RapidBath's performance.  Althought I found the using a 10' hose connected with a water diverter to be easy and convenient for washing a dog, I did not find the soap to lather to my satisfaction.  Also knowing I can go to a hardware store and get the same hose and diverter material for only a few dollars, made it hard to justify a $70 price.

champ and rapid bath

But, being a New York City urban dweller, we know that not every product is designed for city use and works better in an actual home.  With that, I gave the RapidBath System to my friend Tom to try.  Tom lives on a country estate outside of Albany and had a beautiful American Foxhound named Fiddler.  Fiddler being a country dog is always getting into something or another and more in need of frequent bathing.   Here is Tom's verbatim:

Ease of use.....9
Installation......8
Overall impression....8

I have a relatively large American Foxhound named Fiddler.  Put simply, hounds and water don't usually mix.  I've attempted to use shower sprayers, sponges, etc. but make it difficult to keep the dog in the tub while still using them.  The rapid bath system alleviated a number of those issues.  The installation was fairly easy.  Having the right tool to remove the shower head toughest part.  It's great to be able to leave the diverter attached to the shower and still be able to use the rapid bath when needed.  The major benefit of this system is the ability to have everything in one hand.  Using simple knobs and buttons on the hand held unit, you can change from soap to rinse and turn the water on and off with just one hand.  This allowed me to keep the other hand on the dogs collar to keep him in the tub.  Overall a good system.
fiddler on farm
Disadvantages:  must use soap cartridges from rapid bath system.
Potential improvement: I wish the head of the sprayer had some rubber nubs on it to use to massage in the shampoo.  I had to put the unit down to suds the dog before rinsing.

So back to me... my recommendation is, if you have multiple pets, dogs, horses, cats, goats, whatever, and keeping them clean is important to you, buy the RapidBath Pet Bathing System.  Your frequent use and time saved will justify the price.  But do make sure you test the compatibility with all of your faucets and like any larger purchase, keep the receipt in case it does not work out.


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Pet Products Review - Yummy Chummies Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil by Arctic Paws

When you have a long haired dog like my Sheltie Champ, one prides themselves on keeping the dog's coat luxurious, soft and flowing.  I know, it sounds like something out of the movie Zohan.  But seriously, a luxurious coat of hair is your dog's unspoken way of showing his health and vitality. With that I'm always on the search for products that will naturally deliver these benefits.

yummy chummies wild salmon oil

When the people at Artic Paws sent me a large 8oz bottle sample of Yummy Chummies Wild Alaska Salmon Oil, I couldn't wait to try it.  Personnally I supplement my diet with Omega-3 fatty acids and fish oil, so it must be good for my dog too.  I've have seen some Salmon Oil products mostly in the holistic neighborhood pet stores.  But their packaging gave the product a medicinal appeal.  Yummy Chummies has colorful, drip proof packaging and a nice American flag on the label. Now Yummy Chummies.

The Yummy Chummies label claims the oil enhances palatability of dog food, promotes healthy skin, coat and heart, and benefits cardiovascular funchtion, join maintenance and mobility.  Let me tell you, this stuff works!  In the 5 weeks that I've been supplementing Champ's food with Yummy Chummies, his hair is luxuriously soft and has a great bounce, much like Sarah Palin's; and its really thick too. Its as if he's been preparing for the great Iditarod sled race.  What I didn't expect is how pleasantly I see less pet dander and less clumps of hair around my house.  Also, I notice that when Champ sleeps its a deeper more peaceful sleep than before. 

champ and stinky

Now I can not say it enhances the taste of the food because Champ has expressed his displeasure in the oil's aroma.  But, mixing Yummy Chummies in with wet food or even occassionally with people food solves that problem.  Because Champ is only 30 lbs, he only needs two pumps. The pump makes prevents over-feeding and is economizes the $9.98 - $12 cost over many months. 

Again, I really liked Yummy Chummies Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil and hope you check out their website www.yummychummies.com for more information or to purchase.

 

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SUNDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2008 8:40 AM
this is a featured post by a Dogtime blogger

Pup & Chucks

Puppies have to chew and bite!  

Chewing is a natural response to teething.  Play biting is even more important.  During play, litter-mates chew and bite on each other.  This teaches Bite Inhibition.  Feedback from litter-mates is how puppies learn to bite gently. At some point in their life your dog will use its mouth and teeth to tell another dog, or even a person, that they are scared or in pain, or both.  If and when your dog uses their teeth, you will want them to bite gently, this is Bite Inhibition.

A contributing factor to learning to inhibit a bite are the needle-sharp teeth that puppies have in their mouth.  These teeth are designed to hurt!  They MUST hurt because at this young age (under 3-4 months of age) your puppy does not possess the jaw strength to do the damage that they later would (without bite inhibition) would be capable of doing.  Evolution as large, predatory, pack animals has necessitated the need for dogs to use their teeth with great force in some situations (hunting) and very little force at other times (social discussions).

Because of the importance of bite inhibition I often recommend that owners/guardians of pups allow some gentle biting until the pups are about 12-14 weeks of age.  If puppies bite too hard, an "OUCH!" followed by walking away from the puppy is all that is needed as a punishment.  Physical force or harsh punishments like grabbing, shaking, rolling, or pinching a puppy are completely unnecessary, abusive and are likely to teach the puppy that human hands are dangerous.  Because dogs that are fearful are more, not less, likely to bite, teaching a dog to fear hands is a very, very bad idea.

NOTE:  It is important that puppies also play with other puppies so that they learn how to use their teeth and jaws gently in play.  This is best learned before 4-months of age, so PLEASE enroll in a puppy class as soon as you get your puppy.

At about 3-4 months of age (or when your puppy starts losing his or her puppy teeth) humans should begin a zero-tolerance for any biting.  At this point in development, all bite inhibition has been learned and you can mark all contact to human skin with, "OUCH!" and ignoe the puppy.

When puppies hit adolescence they often go through a period of increased biting and chewing (regression).  This is often prompted by a frustrating situation -the puppy wants something they are not going to get, or something is ending that they want to continue.  They are puppy-toddlers.  Again, punishments are completely inappropriate.  Mark any use of the teeth with a "too-bad" and time your pup out.  

If you puppy is having specific issues with handling (paws, collar, ears, tail), they are biting because they are uncomfortable and have not had enough socialization with human handling.  Contact a certified trainer immediately or talk to your puppy instructor.  Remember your instructor or trainer should never be advising the use of force (pinches, rolls, swatting, hitting, grabbing) to eliminate biting.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2008 4:46 PM

bunny dog

OK, so rabbit ears & wigs are silly items, but the training principals that were applied in the process of teaching this dog to wear them are universal.  The steps outlined below can be used to get your dog to love and willingly participate in wearing things you want or need them to wear.  In working with my clients and their dogs I use this system frequently when I need a dog to wear muzzle or head halter.  

With puppies preparation is the key.  I like to start early when teaching a pup to tolerate booties (paw protection for later injuries to the foot) or goofy collars (like the post-surgery lampshade).  Other uses include Other uses include getting your dog comfortable with the sight and feel of a comb, toothbrush, nail trimmers, or ear cleaning pads.  Ideally you will have time to do this training.  If you are in a crunch for time, please seek suggestions for speeding along this process from a certified trainer.


1.  Start by leaving the Training Item (TI) around so that your dog can investigate the TI and learn that its presence means nothing.  This is the first step: Convincing your dog that nothing yucky will happen when the Training Item appears.  

If you have a chew-prone puppy or dog, supervise your dog when you first present the item.  DO NOT punish the dog if they attempt to chew the item.  You do not want your dog to think that the item means they get in trouble.  If they start to chew the item, gently encourage them to chew on an appropriate chew toy.  

This step will take 1-3 days.  Place the Training Item (TI) on your dogs bed, on the floor or next to you on the couch.  Leave it out for 10-15 minutes then put the TI away.  DO NOT make any attempt to get your dogs attention or put the Training Item on or near the dog.


2.  Now start playing with the item.  Bring the TI out several times each day and fiddle with parts that make noise (velcro straps, clips, jingly parts, etc...) or if the TI has a smell like toothpaste or ear cleaners, open the container so that the smell can be perceived by your dog.

DO NOT attempt to put the Training Item on or near your dog.  Remember you are still teaching them that NOTHING YUCKY WILL HAPPEN.  You are simply adding a new parameter: the movement of the items, sound of the item and you holding the item.  Also repeat this step for several days.  Some dogs will show no concern over the noise or movement, others will take a long time before they are convinced that NOTHING IS GOING TO HAPPEN.


3.  The work really begins in this next step.  Because your dog will be working too, you will need something to pay them with so that the job is fun.  

As far as paychecks go, dogs are most likely to work the hardest for toys or food.  Toys are great for dogs that love playing fetch or tug more than anything!  By this I mean that your dog will spit out a treat when looking at a ball and that will only drop a tug toy for another toy, but not for a treat.  If this is your dog, pick one toy and keep it special for the training.  Only play with that toy in training sessions.

If your dog LOVES food, or is luke-warm on toys (95% of pet dogs) FOOD IS THE IDEAL PAYCHECK for your dog.  If this is your dog, pick a special treat to use in training.  Do not give your dog this specially chosen treat unless you are training.  My dogs like cheese, chicken baby food, roast beef, french fries and meatballs BEST.  These are special training treats; they only get these treats when we are training!


4.  Preparing for the training session is important.  Start by teaching the dog that the presence of the paycheck means nothing.

I know that there is a lot of money kept at banks, but I don't get excited when I'm at the ATM because I know that the amount of cash in the building is irrelevant to me.  The amount that means something to me is what I have earned and put into my account.  Teaching this concept to your dog (about their paycheck) is important.  Your dog is already prepared to salivate and anticipate yummy stuff when they smell food in your hand or to get excited when they see the ball or tug toy.  Because this is the natural state of anticipation for your dog, you will need to undo it a bit, to help them make the connection you want.  

 

The connection you are hoping to achieve is:

Training Item Near Dog's Body ---------------------------------->Yippee!!!

What you are starting with is:

Training Item ------->Nothing & Food/Toy Paycheck --------->Yippee!!!

 

5. Making the Food/Toy Paycheck mean as little as the training item.  Because the Training Item (barring a bad previous experience) started an neutral it was quickly accepted as irrelevant.  The toy and food DO HAVE VALUE and meaning to your dog already (yum or yipee).  Therefore, we are going to start by re-teaching your dog that the paycheck is present but unavailable.

 

To do this, pick your paycheck (great food or fantastic toy) and prepare it.  

Get your training item (hat, booties, collar) and place it near you, but do not touch it.  

Then for 10 minutes randomly pick up the paycheck for 1-2 seconds (toy/food) let your dog see you touch (they can even sniff at it), but NOT let them get the paycheck.  

End the session and put everything away.  Yes, your dog will be confused and bummed.

Repeat this for 3-5 days until your dog is BORED with the game and wanders away or lays down -proof they know they are getting nothing.

 

6.  Now we are ready to teach the dog when when and how the paycheck can be earned.  At the next session, start the same way, but about a minute into the session, pick up the Training Item.  Immediately feed your dog or let your dog play with the toy.  Then continue picking up the paycheck.  Remember, no Training item, no paycheck.  Repeat this in short, frequent sessions (two to four, 5-10 minute sessions/day).

Each time you repeat this vary the number of times you fiddle with the paycheck before picking up the training item.  When your dog likes this game, slowly move the item towards the part of the body that it will be worn on.  Be sure that you know exactly what the dog has to do to earn a paycheck and don't deviate during a session.  Also, don't be afraid to stay at the same level for several sessions -until your dog is completely comfortble with the item at that level.


WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 01, 2008 9:27 AM

Pets Product Review - Halloween Party Collar

 

I LOVE HALLOWEEN!!! I love everything about it, from the spooks, the candy, the decorations, the pumpkins and of course the costumes.  For me, the entire month of October is Halloween month. 

My dog Champ, and his friend Riley don't share the same enthusiasm for the holiday; especially the costumes.  We've tried everything from full body costumes, to masks, to head gear and nothing is very comfortable to either.

What I recommend for costume-shy canine is a Halloween Party Collar.  Think of it as a giant frilly scrunchy that comfortably fits around the dog's neck.  Its classy, festive, fun and shows great holiday spirit all for only $12. 

fetch dog party collar

Fetchdog.com has nice selection, and proper sizing.  Do keep in mind that this is not to be used as a replacement of the dog's everyday collar.  It is only for costume purposes.

 

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