Reward-based training does NOT mean that dogs never get in trouble...

Punishment can be used to make certain behaviors disappear.  By definition a punishment is anything that makes a behavior go down in frequency.  Punishments do NOT need to be traumatic, or physically uncomfortable for your dog.  Punishments, like time-outs serve as a consequence for naughty behavior without hurting, scaring, or upsetting your dog.

When rewards are given (+) trainers say they are using Positive Reinforcement (R+).  Treats, toys, and access are all examples of GIVING REWARDS

When rewards or freedom is taken away (-) trainers are using Negative Punishment (P-).  Time-outs, Attention removal, leashing, tethering and games of tug or fetch ending are all examples of HUMANE PUNISHMENTS.

Both R+ and P- are considered humane by the dog.  I NEVER hurt dogs that I train.  I have never found it necessary!  Timing-out a dog is all that is needed to teach them to STOP certain behaviors.

The following are considered "unpleasant" to dogs.  Things that hurt may be successful in teaching a dog to STOP certain behaviors.  However they have additional risks.  Furthermore, Hurting an animal that is AFRAID is NEVER, EVER APPROPRIATE!!!

Positive Punishment does not mean (+) as in GOOD!!!!  Positive (+) means ADDED.  A Positive Punishment make behavior go down (all punishers drive behavior DOWN) because of something YUCKY ADDED (shock, slap, leash pop).  Dogs find P+ unpleasant!

Negative Reinforcement does not mean (-) as in bad!!!!  Negative (-) means subtracted.  A Negative Reinforcer makes behavior go up (all reinforcers drive behavior UP) because of something YUCKY ENDING (choking stops, ear pinch stops, pinning ends).  Dogs find R- unpleasant!  They comply with commands taught by R- because if they do not the yucky stuff continues to happen.  Only when they sit, stop barking, or lay down does the torture end.

TIMING OUT A DOG

1. Mark it!  It is important to catch your dog attempting to do something naughty.  If you are late, or missed the naughty behavior there is nothing you can do, but admonish yourself.  If you do catch your dog in the act, give a big, loud "Too-bad!" or "Uh-oh!"
2. Immediately follow the marker with action.  Be calm and deliberate.  Remember you are trying to bum your dog out, not freak them out!
3. Remove your dog from what they were enjoying.

If your dog was getting attention and then jumped on a guest, stop petting the dog.  Walk out of the room or lead the dog to a leash that is secured to a wall, door or banister.  Clip the dog and walk away.  Say as little as possible:  "Too-bad."  Get dog, clip walk, walk away for 5-10 seconds.  Unclip the dog.  Repeat if necessary.

If your dog jumps to steal food, mark-it and time-out your dog for 5-10 seconds.  Shut your dog in the bathroom, or put the dog on a tie-down

If your dog was naughty while playing off-leash, mark-it and then leash your dog.  Leave the park after 3-strikes.

If your puppy nipped while playing, mark it (Ouch!), drop the toy and walk away.  End the game after 3-strikes.

If your puppy fails to perform a known command, such as sit, mark it and DO NOT GIVE YOUR DOG A SECOND CHANCE.  Put the toy down, or put the treat back in the jar.  Even toss the bone into the crate, but shut the dog out so they can't get it.

NEVER PUNISH (even with time-outs)  Growling, Snarling or Fighting.  These behaviors are likely rooted in fear.  Contact a certified trainer who can help you apply Classical Conditioning to fix the underlying fear.

Pets Product Review - Cosmic Cat Cardboard Cat Scratch Post/Box

If you value how your house looks and the furniture and rugs you buy to make your home more comfortable and aesthetic, than you know how infuriating it can be when your cat scratches.  Its terrible.  But can you really blame your cat? He needs to scratch to shed the dead outer sheath of their claws, which grow constantly like our fingernails. These old shreds of claws feel irritating to cats' paws and cover sharp new claws. The rough texture of most upholstery and of some wood is very effective for this shedding and shredding. And it feels good to the cat!

Well, its nearly impossible to train a cat not to scratch, but you can teach him what to scratch.  I recommend having a few simple and inexpensive cardboard cat scratch boxes around your house.  One of the best and most available is the Cosmic Cat Cardboard Scratch box.  Cardboard has long been recommended as an economical scratcher that trains the cat away from rugs and furniture. Corrugated cardboard has the feel of nature for the cat. It has holes to allow the cat to sink his claws into the scratcher (instead of the furniture) to clean his claws. Since most people do not have corrugated cardboard lying around the house, it quickly becomes the scratching spot.  What makes Cosmic Cat so different is that it comes with a bag of tastey cat nip that attracts the cat to the cardboard.

Go to www.strictlypetsupplies.com has an excellent selection of cat scratching posts and the Cosmic Cat Scratch Post for only $6.99.

Separation anxiety seems to have made the BUZZ WORD Top Ten List.  I've had numerous clients call and report that they need help treating their dog's separation anxiety. Recently, several of these clients have had puppies that are between the ages of 10-14 weeks of age.  When questioned it becomes apparent that what the owners/guardians are concerned about is that their dogs have separation anxiety disorder.  

I do NOT believe in diagnosing puppies with separation anxiety.  Sep-Anx./separation anxiety is a diagnosis of a abnormal behavior or disorder.  Many behaviors that appear in dogs with separation anxiety can also occur in dogs with no anxiety.  In other words, just because your dog or puppy barks when you leave does NOT mean they have separation anxiety.

Puppies that bark and whine when left alone are displaying NORMAL, AGE-APPROPRIATE behaviors.  Treating a puppy's normal separation distress with the protocol for separation anxiety disorder may not be wrong, nor will it likely make the problem worse, but it does waste valuable time, energy, and resources.

In canine literature, descriptions and treatments for separation anxiety are often given by trainers, behaviorists, and veterinarians.  What is often laking in these articles is basic information regarding the difference between NORMAL, AGE APPROPRIATE separation anxiety and the ABNORMAL, PSYCHOLOGICAL CONDITION known as separation anxiety disorder.  Interestingly, this is a developmental stage with similarities to human development.

Barking and whining are normal behaviors for young puppies separated from others in their litter or family.  Furthermore, it is very easy to teach a puppy or dog that barking is the fastest and easiest way to get something--namely people to come back into the room, or to free them from a confinement area or crate.  This does not mean that barking is not annoying, or that it must be tolerated.

ALL puppies must learn how to be alone.  This is often an uncomfortable lesson to learn and teach as the puppies have to go through the unfamiliar task of being alone.  Puppies that do NOT EXPERIENCE BEING ALONE are the dogs that will later develop separation anxiety disorder.  In general I use the crate to teach puppies how to be alone.  

It is important to allow the puppy to fully EXPERIENCE being alone safely and successfully and to LEARN that whining/howling/barking DOES NOT bring people back.  To do this some careful planning helps.

First, make sure you have a cozy, puppy-appropriate crate prepared.

Second, make sure your puppy is hungry (skip a meal, it won't kill them).

Third, make sure your puppy is well-exercised.

If your puppy is hungry and has played vigorously they are also likely to have recently pooped and peed.

Now, prepare a tasty kong and coax or place* your puppy in the crate with the kong.

Shut the door and place a blanket over at least three sides of the crate.

Then LEAVE.

Yup, that's it.  Your pup might bark, howl, or complain for up to 20 or 30 minutes, but they will eventually fall asleep.  After 10-15 minutes of silence, wake your pup up and let them out.  Repeat this 3-4 times a day.  Keep a daily log of how long your dog tries making noise to get out.  It will continue to drop until your dog no longer complains.  

Alone-Time Training is VERY, VERY important for ALL puppies.  Alone-Time Training is separation anxiety disorder Prevention!

* With young puppies (less then 3 months of age) you can gently nudge your pup into the crate.  If you want, you can also plan ahead and teach your pup to go into the crate for a cookie.  With adult dogs, or dogs older than 3 months of age (dogs no longer in the socialization period), DO NOT FORCE crate entry, go slow.

When digging becomes your dogs obsession...

 Steps to eliminate digging in forbidden locations.

1. Elimininate free access to the area where your dog has been digging.

2. Give your dog a DIG-PIT.  Create a snad-box for your dog.  Take them to this area and encourage them to dig.  Play in the sand with them in this location.

3. Allow access to the problem area WITH SUPERVISION.  When you dog starts to dig inappropriately, gently guide them to their digging area.

4.  After your dog starts using their new DIG-PIT on their own, interrupt any digging in innapropriate places with a TIME-OUT (30-seconds in a penalty).

Don´t forget that dogs like to dig in cool, damp locations.  Try to make you doggie DIG PIT a fun place to be, not a hot, dry sunny dust bath.

I am over The Alpha Role!  

The photo was taken while two dogs were PLAYING!

Notice that the Pitt Bull is NOT touching the Shepherd.  The Shepherd offered this submissive role in play.  Also note the raised paw of the Pittie -she is NOT pinning the shepherd or holding him down!  The Shepherd is mock-groveling because these two dogs were doing what I call "playing house."  They dug a den, had a play-fight, humped, chased, dug and had another small mock-domestic dispute.  In this photo Frank-e, the Shepherd, is rehearsing an apology (maybe he dragged dirt into the den who knows!)  The point is and apology by definition can't be FORCED!  An apology is OFFERED!!!!!  

Humans Get It WRONG AGAIN!  

Today at the dog park, I saw a man viciously pin his dog to the ground.   He squeezed the 40lb. dog by the neck with he slammed to the ground while pinning the dog's chest with his knee.  I have learned that free advice is not always taken well and rather than be punishing, I simply walked away.  Many others walked away as it was uncomfortable to watch.  

You must be wondering what did his dog do?  The offense was normal and healthy dog communication.  There was no damage, no fight, the dog simply growled and snapped at another big, rambunctious dog for coming near his ball.  His owner creamed his dog for this, but did he teach his dog not to do that?  We can't be sure.  Learning is a CHANGE in behavior, we would have to be in a similar situation and observe what the dog chose to do next time.  

My concern is that the dog who was "corrected" may have been so terrified by his owner that he was unable to make a connection between his behavior (a normal dog communication) and the punishment.  What he might have learned was a simpler equation.  Dogs coming near = trouble.  Therefore, keep dogs away before they get close.  I have seen the outcome of this in many dogs.  It starts off with a dog who will growl at a dog for coming near the ball when they have it and snow-balls into a dog that lunges and attacks any dog that comes within 10 feet of their ball.

It is over-used, over-done and I am OVER IT!

But you don't have to take my word for it.  Experts (lots of them) agree.

See what Wikipedia says...