Most of you know that Mum and I have been constantly and consistently working on building my core strength after my iliopsoas pull and back strains over the past couple of years.We've been doing a lot of balance ball work, (even doing begs and stands on the ball now), lots of begs with waves (which I can hold for over 30 secs now), and we've been doing a lot more hill hiking the past month. At least I'm not working on a Kettlebell like some humans do!
Anyhoo....the other day, Mum was looking at me standing in the yard, and I had a really nice stance. Back legs were further apart, my bum wasn't tucked under as much, and I was leaning forward just a tad more.
When I came inside, after some zoomies, Mum decided to stretch me out after my little workout. Something was very different. My abdominal muscles, if that's what you call them on a dog, were a lot more built up, for lack of better words. My tummy felt strong! And I just seemed to be more muscular all over.
Mum's thinking that all this core strength work may really be starting to pay off. I haven't had an 'long healing incident' in a long time, and I have a lot more tolerance for long activities (like those six miles hikes) without any effects at all. Heck, I even want to get my zoomies on after those long hikes.
Any thoughts about this core strength building I've been doing, and potentially apparent results from fellow active dogs/dog lovers out there? We'd love to hear if you have any thoughts to share.
Pet owners make all kinds of excuses for their fat pets. This especially popular Dolittler entry from a few months back exposes them. Today’s post offers yet another I should have detailed. It's one that gets cited most every time I discuss a canine exercise regimen in any detail: “But she hurts whenever I try to exercise her.”
It’s a conundrum, really. And it's not just to do with overweight dogs. No one wants to begin a much-needed exercise program on a pet whose joint ills or non-specific sluggishness obviously holds him back. Even those who have always exercised their dogs extensively wonder how far to take their walks, whether the swimming is still safe and how much exercise “abuse” it’s fair to inflict. Even these active owners tend to slack off out of humanitarian concerns.
The implication, whether for an able but aging exerciser or a fat newbie needing rehab, is that exercise pushes pets past their comfort zone in ways we humans might be loath to undertake even for ourselves. So how can we possibly subject them to it?
It’s a perfectly legitimate consideration, but one that tends towards the overblown. After all, we humans have always been urged by our physicians and rehab specialists to accept the discomfort of exercise, to push past the initial pain with an eye towards its benefits, and to remain consistent in the application of an exercise regimen––sore muscles, stiffness, joint pain and all.
Too bad too many dog owners just don’t see it that way. Here’s what I hear:
“It’s cruel and inhumane.”
“I can’t stand to watch her suffer.”
“I’d rather have him die in peace.”
“It’s only prolonging her suffering.”
But it doesn’t have to be that way––no more than it is for us. Those who would argue that an exercise regimen for an older, arthritic dog simply prolongs suffering would probably do well to euthanize them immediately. Because exercise doesn’t prolong suffering––life does.
Exercise––done right (and it's easy)––simply offers tiny blips of soreness as it augments muscle tone, enhances coordination and “lubricates” stiff joints.
All those free radicals and muscle acids that speak in painful tones when we work out? We’re finding they’re every bit as essential to pets when it comes to mental health, immune system function and even in such seemingly unrelated areas as digestion, skin condition and––here’s a shocker––overall quality of life.
But what’s enough? And how much is too much?
Dosing exercise is the hardest part for me, the healthcare provider, to determine. A prescription for exercise must be precise enough for my clients to follow and doable enough to yield habit-forming stability, but not so rigid and rapidly soreness-inducing to elicit non-compliance after the first couple of walks around the block.
Moreover, exercise must often be accompanied by a dietary plan for my fatties (the bulk of them) and a pain-relieving regimen that usually involves a round-robin of supplements and drugs to limit the discomfort inherent to the flexion and extension of muscles attached to painful joints.
Curious about what a detailed prescription might look like?
Feed 1/3 cup X food twice daily Offer up to 5 baby carrots or apple slices per day as treats Glucosamine once daily Fatty acids once daily Adequan injection twice weekly for four weeks 5 minutes exercise AM and PM daily (swimming, walking, ball-throwing, etc.) Twice weekly, two 30 minute outings Offer Metacam one hour before each longer outing or whenever extra soreness results after daily exercise Increase daily exercise by five minutes every two weeks until 30 minutes achieved Increase intensity level of daily exercise every second week after increased duration Consider hiring a dog walker/runner for exercise assistance Consider massage therapy and acupuncture
It’s a complex bit of calculus, this recipe, because it’s different for all pets and always requires tweaking and revisiting on all points, not just when it comes to the duration and intensity of the exercise. And for many pet owners, hand-holding is an inevitable bit of the equation, too.
Luckily, common sense and maybe a phone call or two is usually enough to help dedicated pet owners power through the rough spots inherent to such a regimen. But then, we can all guess at the stats on the prevalence of common sense.
Hence my frustration when, six months later, my daily schedule includes Fluffy at 3 PM for “can’t get up” because her owner couldn’t bear to “force her to walk when she didn’t want to.” Which means the regimen was over before it started. So it is that when I evaluate Fluffy’s legs at 3 PM, they’ll probably be the last she'll ever walk on, too far gone to heal and too painful to allow her to live with.
That moment is inevitable for all of us, including our pets. It's just sad to see that for some, I've failed to bring them another six months, a year, or maybe many more, because I couldn't get out there and do the work their owners couldn't do. Because I couldn't convince their humans that those last months or years were likely to have been comfortable, happy ones...as long as exercise had played a basic role.
Teaching Dogs to "Swim"
Not All Dogs Like Water...
And, not all dogs CAN swim!
But, waders can have fun too!
Tips for Hydrophobic (behaviorally, not clinically) Dogs
If you want your dog to like or love something, you must find a way for them to associate that thing with good things. If they are too nervous, scared or shy to try the thing you want them to like then you have to start really slow.
Starting slow means:
REWARD (toys & treats work the fastest) any and all interest in the activity or item. This can mean praising and treating the dog for looking at the pool of water, moving towards it or sniffing the edge.
REPEAT the same exercise over and over again in SHORT intervals. Try starting with 5-minutes at a time, then leave and go do something else for 10-15 minutes. Try 3 or 4 short sessions once or twice a day.
JACKPOT your dog with a huge surprise of yummy treats of an extra special version of a toy (squeaky tennis ball vs. regular ball) for any extra brave attempts or sudden bursts of enthusiasm.
OBSERVE & IMPROVE on the required level of interest only when your dog is clearly ready to move onto the next level. If they aren't consistently sniff putting one paw on the edge they are NOT ready for putting one paw IN the water. Wait and keep rewarding just one paw on the edge.
***Fatal Errors***
Forcing a dog to do something and hoping they will figure out it isn't so bad.
Forcing a dog to do something and then letting them ESCAPE and giving them semi-interesting rewards/good stuff.
Trying to sooth a dog with words and kind petting while they are freaking out.
Forcing a dog to stay in water once they decide to go it = punishment for trying (let them escape so they can do it again).
Filling the pool with a big scary hose while the dog is learning.
Doing swim/play in the bath area.
DO...
Let your dog escape once they go in.
Let your dog decide they are done for the day.
Try using toys/food as a bribe to get in, BUT be sure to REWARD (more treats/play) AFTER the dog gets in even if they pop out.
Use really, really tasty treats or your dog favorite toy.
Start with a shallow pool and clear water with no waves or spray.
If your dog should shed more pounds than fur, then read on. Running or biking together is an excellent way to trim down, tone up and boost your bond. Even better, you get to work out with the world’s best exercise buddy. Just think about it – anytime, day or night, your dog’s ready to go (and he won’t trail behind on a cell phone). So make the most of your workout together. Help your pooch lose the paunch. It’s easy.
Vet Your Pet. Just like us, some dogs are out of shape and have exercise limitations. Older or overweight dogs may need low-impact exercise to relieve pressure on their joints. Others may be prone to hip and bone problems that can be exacerbated by regular running. So before lacing and leashing up together, make sure to ask your vet to assess your dog’s physical condition.
Pad on Over. Hot asphalt, gravel driveways and hard pavements take a toll on your dog’s paw pads. To avoid scrapes, burns and hard impact on the paws, choose grass and other softer surfaces when running with your dog.
Pace the Pup. He may think he’s Super Dog, but your best friend needs to work up his endurance. Too much exercise too soon can lead to injury, and doggie burnout. So start slowly with short sessions with your dog running next to you, or alongside your bike. If he starts panting a lot or just seems tired, call it quits for the day and fill up his bowl with fresh, cool water frequently. http://www.rei.com/product/759617
Time it Right. All dogs need a little extra help to avoid heat exhaustion. Remember, they can’t take off that fabulous fur coat no matter how hot it gets outside. And since they don’t sweat like us, they need to pant to cool down. You can help them beat the heat by exercising together in the morning or evening hours, especially during the summertime.
Get in Gear. Pedaling with your pup just got better. No more tangled leashes or hands-free riding. Nifty bike attachments keep your dog at a safe distance from your bike, while absorbing the tugging and pulling as he runs alongside. Just attach it to your bike frame and go for a smooth, safe ride together.
http://www.springeramerica.com/
Ready, Set, Glow! Now everyone will see the bright spot of your day. Reflective collars or jackets keep your dog in clear view of traffic, cyclists, anyone he encouters on his evening run or ride.
Teach your dog to TAKE-A-BOW!
Many of my clients dogs have a hard time playing with and interacting with other dogs. These dogs often play well with well-known, "buddy-dogs" and demonstrates good play-skills in comfortable situations, but do poorly with new dogs or in new places.
With work the dog can learn to meet and greet the novel dogs without being inappropriate, but there is often no play. In these cases the dog-in-training often starts getting jumped by the other dogs (in a not so friendly way). This happens after the Meet-&-Greet, because the dog-in-training sniffs a hello and then just stands there stiffly. This is awkward and invites aggressiion -a sort of preemptive strike against the dog who is standing stiffly and giving everyone the willies.
In these cases teaching a PLAY-BOW can bridge the gap between meeting and becoming friends. It gives the dog-in-training something to do (besides standing awkwardly). Furthermore, despite its trained-awkwardness it gives the other dogs something to do too -they can respond with more playfulness.
How To Teach A Play-Bow
Dog is standing...
1. Take a small treat and place it on your dogs nose.
2. Let your dog smell and lick at the treat, but don't let them eat it.
3. Slowly, very SLOWLY move the treat from your dog's nose in a straight-line down to the floor (right between your dogs front paws).
4. If your dog bends her elbows (even a little) while her tail-end is still in the air (not a down), praise and treat your dog.
If your dog's bottom flops to the ground, pull the treat away, stand-up and move away form your dog. Wait until your dog is standing to begin again.
5. Keep doing this for 5 or 10 minutes everyday until your dog easily goes into the position shown above.
NOW ADD THE COMMAND
a. Call it something cute! I like: "Go play" or "New Friend"
b. Say this new phrase or the word, BOW
c. Then pause.... wait 10-15 seconds.
d. Now give your dog a HINT: lure the trick.
If your dog does it, praise and treat your dog.
e. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.
f. When your dog finally does this after the command and BEFORE the hint, JACKPOT your dog with 7 or 8 treats all at once!
g. Repeat some more.
h. Take it on the road; try it outside with no dogs around.
Don't be surprised if your dog needs a review in new places or once dogs are around.
Include a picture of YOUR DOG'S PLAY-BOW.
Comment below & send the pic to: kelley@dogEvolve.com
Nicole's dog CLOVER
