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Showing 19 posts about dog guarding
(see also: dog behavior)
I know you've all met this first Lena, but I don't think you've met the second one below. That Lena is a.k.a Cujo. I know it's hard to believe this sweet and innocent face can give off such a vicious look, but she does. I call it the only child syndrome.

Lena


Cujo
The only time she reacts this way is when I'm involved in conversation with somebody or not paying attention to her, she'll either bark continuously or go pick up a stick (which I normally try to keep away from her because I know what happens when she starts to possess on a stick, but as I said when I'm in conversation I'm not paying attention to her -- god forbid). So anyway she'll find a stick, lay down and you can't go near her. If you try she starts to give you the lip, which to me means stay the hell away from me and my stick. The only way I can snap her out of it is to just simply walk away and let her forget about it. I've tried just about everything else and nothing seems to work. Does your dog have possession issues? Does your dog get jealous when you're not paying attention to them? And if so how do you handle these issues?
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READER QUESTION


My granddog is a boxer female 26 months old. In the mornings when I try to get her to go outside she snaps and growls at me. Can a dog sleep with a muzzle on? If they can is the my best plan of attack or put her back in her cage. Sincerely KB Houston TX


 

Dear KB,

Of course your dog could sleep with a muzzle on, but I wouldn't recommend it.  I almost always reserve muzzles for dogs that BITE.  Snapping & growling are warning behaviors  -it is not to late to fix this problem.  Both you and your dog deserve to sleep and wake-up in harmony.  


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It sounds as if your Boxer is a Bed Guarder. On the Guarding Scale (1-10) your dog is a light-weight.  She only guards the bed, after having been there all night.  Heavy-Duty Guarders will claim it as theirs (growl/snap/snarl) as soon as they lay down.

 

I'm not excusing the behavior, but I do understand it.  I am a deep sleeper and DO NOT like waking up.  I hate waking; I routinely abuse my alarm clock in the morning.  The best days start with someone brining me coffee in bed!  

 

Coffee MAKES me happy; coffee is NOT contingent upon my BEING happy :)  As you read the following keep this in mind --The coffee I get in the morning is NOT a reward for waking up in a good mood.  The coffee is a nice way to prevent me from being cranky.

 

By contrast, punishments for 'grumpy morning behavior' will not work.  Think about it.  If you already hate waking up to leave your warm, cozy bed your attitude will not likely improve if you get in trouble for not being a morning person.

 


 

WARNING:  

Punishments: yelling, hitting, squirting, dragging, pinning, rolling, etc WILL MAKE CERTAIN BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS WORSE.  In this case, the dog already hates leaving the bed in the morning.  She is NOT is her right mind --me before coffee (cranky!)  Punishments for cranky morning behavior will make your dog have an even bigger negative (yucky) association with waking up.

 


 


Try this instead...

 

1. Before you wake your dog, go to the fridge.  

2. Get something tasty (some cheese or a hotdog).  

3. Approach your dog, but stop before you are so close that she will yell at you.  

4. Then, say something in a sweat voice: "Morning Girl -Rise & Shine."  The phrase can be whatever you like saying and can say nicely. 

5. Then toss a treat, right to her.  Toss it on the bed, or even bounce it off her head.

DO NOT WORRY IF SHE BARKS OR GROWLS -Remember she is NOT a morning dog.  She doesn't mean anything by it, she's just grumpy.

 

6. If she eats the treat, toss another and then toss the rest on the ground.  

7. As soon as she is on the floor call her to the door and give her once last treat.

 

 

Please see the following ARTICLES for more information.

Dog Faces: Reading Body Language

Muzzles -When & How Should They Be Used?

Muzzles --Is Aggression The Only Use?

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Your dog is NOT being naughty...

 

On purpose,

To get back at you,

Or, because they are trying to dominate you!

 

 

 



Your dog's behavior is not malicious.  

Behavior is a result of past CONSEQUENCES & current MOTIVATIONS.  

 


 

Chances are they...


a) Really DON'T know better.

  • They are acting on instinct (dogs bark, whine and chase things).

  • They are doing what feels best to them (peeing and pooping feels better than holding it).

  • They are repeating something that has worked before (checking the counter for more toast).

     

b) Just don't care.

  • There is no yucky consequences (peeing on rug = relief).

  • The consequence is late or seems unconnected (yell at dog for chewing couch sometime while you were gone).

  • The consequence is actually rewarding the behavior (pushing a dog down for jumping up = touch/attention).

  • Something else is more compelling/appealing at the moment (pulling towards the next great smell is worth the choking sensation).


 


 

Things to think about...

 

Have you ever done something even though you "knew better?"

Have you ever performed poorly at something you "know how to do?"

 


 

 

Have you ever made a bad meal or burnt dinner?

Did you do it to "get back" at someone or as revenge, or was it just the way things went?

Did everyone notice how "in charge" you were of their food enjoyment and "feel subordinate" to you?

 

Have you ever missed a payment or fogotten something important?

Was it to "make a statement" about something, or prove your power?

Did you do it "on purpose" even though you "knew better" and had done it right before?

 

Do you know better than to call in sick when your friend is visiting?  

What is your motivation?  

What is the consequence? 


Are you a "good" driver?

Have you ever sped?

Why, it is "wrong" isn't it?

Have you ever been "sneaky" about when/where you speed?  Why?

 

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Elberta, AL

 

FEBRUARY 4, 2009, 11:27 AM

I love your advice and use it all the time with our 7 month old belgian malinois. The removal without anger works great EXCEPT when he grabs a sock, piece of paper, paper towel or clothes and runs. I don't chase him, he'd think that is fun, my problem is I can't just ignore it so when I approach from the side calmly he doesn't run but he has a death grip and won't give it up even for treats or his fav toy. Any ideas would really be appreciated. He does have lots of various toys, gets lots of exercise and traing and is very smart. Thanks in advance. Trainer in training, Lisa

Dear Trainer-In-Training,
This is a great question, thanks for bringing it up.  From what you have described, you have made some great choices.
  • You are NOT chasing your dog.  I agree, he would think that is fun.
  • You are approaching him casually and TRYING TO TRADE TREATS for the ITEM.
  • You have supplied your dog with HIS OWN TOYS.

The motivational issue.

The stolen Item TRUMPS (are better than) even the BEST toy.
The stolen Item is better than the TREATS you have tried.
The stolen is more fun (it was hunted & caught) than TOYS.

The management issue.

Tighten way up on shutting doors to bathrooms, bedrooms, or laundry rooms. 
Pick-up and remove any items that are not expendable (if they are around, you are willing to loose them).

A possible health concern.

If your dog has ever tried to consume the stolen item, it could lead to intestinal blockage or surgery.  
Dogs who excel at passively guarding (no growling, biting, snapping) are usually prone to try maintaining possession by engulfing.  
>>>>If this is a concern, please read about MANAGEMENT OPTIONS FOR ENGULFERS.


My major suggestions would be:

TIGHTEN UP on MANAGEMENT.  For the next 2-weeks your dog will need NO ACCESS to preferential items (the ones that have been stolen in the past).
TEACH your dog THE GAME of TUG.  Follow the instructions and really focus on teaching DROP.
>>>>Read more here on PLAYING TUG WITH YOUR DOG.


Create a BACK-UP PLAN.  

  1. Have some really amazing treats (steak comes to mind).  
  2. Set your dog up.  Deliberately leave an old-expendable sock in a steal-location, or drop it "by accident."
  3. Say, "TRADE YOU!"  
  4. Then go to the fridge (yep walk away from your dog) and get the goodies.  
  5. Without saying anything more, toss (stay as far away from your dog as you can) the yummy-steak treats AND WALK AWAY.
  6. If your dog appears WITHOUT the ITEM... Praise your dog like mad and give MORE TREATS.
  7. Tether, crate, or confine your dog and then go recover the item.

Do this until the dog spits out the item as soon as you toss the treats.

DO NOT touch the item or try to take it if your dog is still holding it, or standing over it.

Continue to work DROP with the tug toy, then try DROP with a sock that you are holding.


 

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Dear Kelley,

I do not have an aggressive dog, but I do have a dog that is currently in the hospital because she rooted around in my coat and ate a package of gum that had Xylitol as a main ingredient... a sweetner can cause necrosis of the liver. 
 
I have considered using a muzzle on my dog to keep her from grabbing food when we are eating in the house...  Would using a muzzle be any type of solution for this type of behavior?
 
Kaitlin T.



Answer Below.

Do you have a question for Kelley?


  

This goofy pup is learning to LOVE his Grooming Muzzle (aka Mickey Muzzle).  It isn't even clipped -he's just licking Peanut Butter from inside and learning that sticking his nose inside is FANTASTIC!





Dear Kaitlyn,

 

I am so glad to hear that your pup is OK.  And yes, it is certainly possible to use a muzzle to prevent your dog from eating harmful substances or from scavenging nasty items when romping off-leash.  It sounds as if you have already planned to use a muzzle for management while you complete training.  


Please be sure that your dog is comfortable with the muzzle.  A special training processed called Desensitization & Counter-Conditioning can be used to teach a dog (or any animal) to be more comfortable with new items. Also, if your dog is wearing the muzzle for long periods of time (more than 15-20 minutes in moderate temperatures) be sure that the muzzle is light-weight and that your dog can pant and drink water.  


Mickey Muzzles (shown in the photo above) when fitted properly do not allow dogs to open their mouths.  They are NOT for use in training situations as they should not be left on the dog for any length of time -especially if unsupervised.  Sometimes Grooming Muzzles are used when dogs are taken on public transportation -in these situations the dog is supervised and should not be exposed to warm temperatures or long trips.  

 

flexible polyethylene Basket Muzzle is best for long-term use.  They allow dogs to pant and drink water.  Because they tend to look "scary" I like to decorate them; Ribbons, 

non-toxic paint (nail-polish works too), and cute scarves, bows, and collars help soften the effect.  If that isn't your cup of tea, you can try ordering one that matches your dogs fur (more of a blend-in, rather than a muzzle-flamboyant style).

 




Here are some other points to consider.


Puppy-Proofing is paramount, but if you don't know what is TOXIC, you can't do your job as a puppy parent.  Check out tips from DOGTIME.COM.  A good place to start is the article Poison Proofing Your Home.


Confine your pup or new dog when you can't supervise them.  Create a nice, safe place for your dog to hang out when you are busy.  This can be a laundry room, gated kitchen or bathroom.  Whatever space you choose, clear the area of all potential hazards and valuables.

Teach your dog some manners.  More on begging, stealing and commands for leaving items, like Drop-it.


Make sure your pup has plenty of LEGAL CHEW ITEMS!  This is super important for dogs that have hunting backgrounds like Jack Russell TerriersBeagles, or for dogs that are master chewers like Labradors, Rottweilers, and Pit Bull Terriers.  I like Kongs stuffed with food.  In fact, my dogs haven't eaten out of bowls in years.  All their food goes into Kongs and they chew, lick, and suck their food out as if they were working on a freshly killed chunk of meat.


Get help from a Certified Dog Trainer.  Not all trainers are certified and not all trainers use humane, modern dog training methods.  For a list of certified trainers in your area try doing a search for an SPCA Certified Trainer in your area.  The SF/SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers is run by Jean Donaldson, author of many wonderful books on dog training, including my favorite -The Culture Clash.

 

MORE ON KONGS!!!

http://blogs.dogtime.com/secret-shopper-pet-product-reviews/2008/10/kong-what-would-we-do-without-you


http://blogs.dogtime.com/go-dog-training/2008/09/behaving-badly


http://www.sfspca.org/resources/library/for-dog-owners/abcs/kong-stuffing.pdf


http://www.kongcompany.com/worlds_best.html

 

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