Households can get tricky when you add another dog, a forever house-guest to the equation. Especially when you already have a family dog defending their territory and vying for dominance & hierarchy as top dog in the furry pack. Our friends at the Humane Society have some simple new dog introduction techniques to make your new dogs transition into the household and pack easier for the entire family and resident dog. These tips will help to keep the peace and prevent squabbles among your furry family members. But before we get started with reviewing these helpful techniques. It is important that you first establish the pack leader position and mentality. Since dogs have a tendency to want to assume the lead of the pack. With those adorable not so innocent eyes they prey on our weakness, so take charge and stand firm. In the wild, the Alpha, or the leader of the pack is strong, stable, well adjusted, and confident. They make all necessary decisions for the rest of the pack. Seeing as they are no longer in the wild ( backyard does not count) it is crucial that you assume that role.
Dogs yearn to be part of a pack and want to be lead. This all starts by understanding your role as pack leader, which is to discipline & correct in love. Setting limitations, boundaries and letting your dogs know whose boss is vital to your dogs health and well being and the key to raising well adjusted pups. But don't forget that your role is to reward your dogs with praise, belly rubs & treats when they follow the rules.
Now on to the topic of the hour....how to introduce a new dog into the household when you already have a dog.
1. Choose a Neutral Location: Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on a leash, take them to an area with which neither is familiar, such as a park or a neighbor’s yard. If you frequently walk your resident dog in a park near your house, she may view that park as her territory, so choose another site that’s unfamiliar to her. We recommend bringing your resident dog with you to the shelter and introducing the dogs before adopting the new dog.
2. Use Positive Reinforcement: From the first meeting, you want both dogs to expect "good things" to happen when they’re in each other's presence. Let them sniff each other, which is normal canine greeting behavior. As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone of voice - never use a threatening tone of voice. Don’t allow them to investigate and sniff each other for a prolonged time, as this may escalate to an aggressive response. After a short time, get both dogs' attention, and give each dog a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as "sit" or “stay.” Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals. Continue with the "happy talk," food rewards and simple commands.
3. Be Aware of Body Postures: One body posture that indicates things are going well is a “playbow.”One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing up on the other dog's back, teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff legged gait or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly and positively getting each dog interested in something else. For example, both handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down and reward each with a treat. The dogs will become interested in the treats which will prevent the situation from escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other.
4. Taking the Dogs Home: When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other's presence without fearful or aggressive responses, and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to take them in the same, or different vehicles, will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how trouble-free the initial introduction has been and how many dogs are involved.
If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to "gang up" on the newcomer.
When to seek help?
If the introductions don't go smoothly, contact a professional animal behaviorist immediately. Dogs can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Punishment won't work, and could make things worse. Fortunately, most conflicts between dogs in the same family can be resolved with professional guidance.
Here is some more food for thought!
Remember to stay calm during the new pups introduction. Dogs can sense and pick up on your nervousness and uneasiness, making the situation more awkward.
Another great trick is to use a Crate at home. At home, you can put the new dog into a crate and allow your current dog to sniff it. If your current dog shows signs of growling or other aggressive moves you need to step in as their leader and let them know it is not acceptable. To do this, have your current dog on leash with the leash dragging so that you may step in and get a hold of the leash to correct your dog for exhibiting signs of aggression. When the dogs are able to turn their attention off of each other and relax you may be able to introduce them in person without the crate.
Never pat a dog showing signs of aggression. If a dog is showing signs of aggression; growling, barking, etc don't be quick to pet to calm them. Doing so only encourages this aggressive behavior. Only pet or show praise towards your dog when they are calm, obedient and on best doggy behavior.
If you are struggling with introducing dogs to each other, and nothing seems to work don't get discouraged. Its important to realize that bond & friendship will grow in time, so be patient and give your dogs time to adjust to one another. Every situation is different. Don’t rush it. If you have a concern about your dogs initial meet and sniff perhaps consider muzzling your dogs to be safer. Keep your eyes alert, always observing your dogs interactions with each other. If your dogs are doing well together continue to observe for a period of time before leaving them alone.
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I've been making leaps and bounds with the progress with the cats in my house. As you all know by now, I've got 3 black cats as housemates. In the beginning when they first moved in, we were not getting along well. They would hiss at me constantly, and run away whenever I was around. And of course, their running only triggered my prey drive, and I would chase not knowing why.
But with time, and seeing them over and over, I got used to the fact that they are incredibly shy, and un-socialized, which explains why they display some anti-social behavior. I am the first dog that they've ever seen, because they are house cats. They hardly even interact with other humans, except their own. Living with these shy cats has also taught me to be patient in my approach. I learned to look away, and not stare at them, or posture myself too much. I have to keep reminding myself that they are NOT dogs. When I approach to sniff their butts in a d0g-friendly manner, they bend down and then run away, as if I was a danger.
Its been so warm, that Mum has been giving me ice cubes to cool down. I munch on them, and lick on them, and it feels very good on my tongue.
Me and my ice cube
Mum also gave the kitties an ice cube. They also licked at it and pawed at it, like it was a toy. Snuggles likes the ice cube more than Dozer does. Snuggles also has taken more initiatives to sniff me. I lay down and allow the cats to come up to me, to sniff my butt, tail, legs and back. I've come to understand that this is the only way I am able to get close to the cats, and so I try to be very still when they come close to me.
Here I am watching the cats play with their ice cube on a hot summer's dayI think the cats and I have come to the understanding, that neither of us are going away from this house, and we have to all live together harmoniously.
We've been able to stay close to each other, about a foot away from one another, and no one has tried to hurt anyone else.
Me and my cats, chilling by the back sliding door, enjoying some morning sunshineFrom the picture, you can see that I am in the first phase of the Reverse Stripping method. My black saddle has been taken off first.
Hugs,
Kimi
A Basket Muzzle can be used to prevent a dog from biting, but it is not to be used as a replacement for addressing the problem, or for contacting a certified trainer.
A light-weight basket muzzle is always the best option when the dog will be participating in an physical exercise such as walking or playing.
It is also the best choice when the dog will or may be wearing the muzzle for longer than a few minutes, or for management of a lifetime problem such as Lack of Bite Inhibition (see below).
In general a muzzle is used when there is a history of the dog's bite having caused damage such as scratches or punctures.
A muzzle may also be used with a dog who has not yet bitten, but who is showing clear warning signals that they are likely to bite such as GROWLING, SNARLING or SNAPPING (especially if the aggression is directed at people).
Dogs who show signs of aggression, but whose Bite Inhibition is not known, may also need to wear a muzzle. Because a dog who has not bitten has Unknown Bite Inhibition, it can not be determined how seriously the dog may bite.
Some dogs, especially those socialized well as puppies, will use their teeth and jaws and cause little to no damage. Other dogs, those with Poor Bite Inhibition, will leave punctures, tear the skin, or worse bite multiple times with deep punctures and tearing.
Good Bite Inhibition means that the dog causes little or no damage. It is possible for a dog to have bitten many times and have Good Bite Inhibition. It is also possible for a dog who rarely fights, or almost never bites to have Poor Bite Inhibition. Dogs who almost never fight/bite, but who have cause damage (punctures needing medical or veterinary care) should always be muzzled when around the people or dogs they may harm.
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SHAKING & YAWNING: These behaviors mean more than you might think.
Of course, dogs shake when they are wet, but have you ever noticed that dogs sometimes shake when they aren't even outside? Shaking and yawning are both behaviors that dogs do frequently after stressful situations. Shaking and yawning are transition signals -they indicate a shift in demeanor.
I typically see YAWNS, when I am waiting for a particular behavior from a dog. They tend to happen right before the dog "gives in" or acquiesces to what I ask or expect them to do.
For example the other day I was at a curb and the dog I was training really, really wanted to get to the other side of the street -the park was there. I said, "Sit." The dog did not sit, so we backed away from the curb. We approached again. I repeated the command, but the dog, in her excitement, could not sit. We backed away five more times. Then, on the eighth attempt, when approaching the curb, the dog let out a BIG YAWN and then, sat down. I cheered and we bolted across the street to the park!
SHAKING typically happens after a "stressful event," such as a small scuffle between two dogs, after getting a time-out, or after having attempted to do something that was a little frightening.
For example my clients new puppy jumped up on the counter in the kitchen and we gave her a TIME-OUT. She was already dragging a leash so we said, "Too-bad" and lead her to the stairs where we clipped her to the banister for 10 seconds. When we returned and unclipped her, she shook her whole body. It is if she let out a big sigh and let her disappointment go. Then she was her bubbly, puppy self again (but without putting her paws on the counter :)
In another situation, a 3-month old puppy was meeting some new people. He was kind of interested, but nervous. He kept approaching the group of people with his body low and then backing away quickly. Finally he went over and took a treat from one person's hand. He ate it, but Immediately backed away and shook his whole body. It was obvious to me that he was more than just a little shy, he was seriously stressed out and scared. The evidence of his stress was the shake. Rather than continue to stress out the puppy, we went real easy and had the group of people toss treats to him for about 15 minutes. Suddenly his head and tail were up and the pup was approaching people for treats and taking them with no shaking.
Pay attention to what your dogs are telling you.
YAWNING & SHAKING mean things.
Learn to listen with your eyes and you'll improve your relationship with your dog.
A blanket answer to this question is not likely to satisfy anyone, nor would it be appropriate for all situations. Ultimately, this question can only be answered by the dog's guardian. However, it is always best to make informed decisions and there are good reasons to be concerned. The bottom line is that mixing sizes presents a very real opportunity for severe injury or death to the smaller dog. Even more concerning is that this can happen with "good dogs" who are social, obedient and playing well together.
There is a name for this risk -it is called Predatory Drift.
I would love to feel satisfied that the majority of people disregarding the risks of large sized differences are INFORMED risk-takers, but my experiences at dog parks and in conversations with dog guardians has proved otherwise. Watching small and large dogs play together does not bother me; it is the uninformed, "It will be fine," "My dog is friendly," "He can hold his own," attitudes that concern me. This is what I would like to see change. It would be nice if a shift in attitude regarding this issue could happen before someone either sees his or her dog kill or be killed.
Sadly, there does not seem to be enough knowledge and or understanding in the dog community about the risks, rare though they may be, of allowing small dogs to play near or with larger dogs (dogs with approximately 50% difference in body weight). Furthermore, it is neither small-dog owners, nor large dog owners who bear the brunt of the responsibility; everyone needs to know about Predatory Drift and what it means for their dogs play time.
