Dogs don't have an agenda.  There is no such thing as a "bad dog."  

There are dogs who bite, but it's not their fault that they have big teeth and jaws.  Nor is it their fault that we like that about them and decided to let them live intimately with us.  Furthermore, all dogs can and will eventually bite if hurt badly enough, scared badly enough, or threatened.  

Generally when people say they have a "bad dog," what they mean to say is that they have an untrained dog.  Just keep in mind that untrained, under-motivated, or under-exercised does not mean BAD!

Often when I meet clients and their dogs for the first time I am more concerned with putting everyone at ease.  And sometimes when I'm out and about I avoid telling people I am a trainer.  Such a stigma comes with my profession...people immediately get weird with their dogs, get embarrassed by them being dogs, or worse, start "showing off" how strict they can be.  I loathe strict when its obvious the dog has NO CLUE what the person wants.  

I happen to love a clever, rascally dog.  There is nothing as cute to me a dog being naughty.  

This doesn't mean I approve of dogs who bite, or bark, or steal toys, etc. But you have to admit, I'd be a really poor trainer if naughty behavior made me lose my mind instead of bringing a smile to my face.  

If you can't appreciate it, you won't want to look at it.  If you can't look at it, in detail, you won't ever know it well enough to change it.

Love your DOG!

Honor their doginess.

Appreciate them for what they are.

Happy Holidays!

Reward-based training does NOT mean that dogs never get in trouble...

Punishment can be used to make certain behaviors disappear.  By definition a punishment is anything that makes a behavior go down in frequency.  Punishments do NOT need to be traumatic, or physically uncomfortable for your dog.  Punishments, like time-outs serve as a consequence for naughty behavior without hurting, scaring, or upsetting your dog.

When rewards are given (+) trainers say they are using Positive Reinforcement (R+).  Treats, toys, and access are all examples of GIVING REWARDS

When rewards or freedom is taken away (-) trainers are using Negative Punishment (P-).  Time-outs, Attention removal, leashing, tethering and games of tug or fetch ending are all examples of HUMANE PUNISHMENTS.

Both R+ and P- are considered humane by the dog.  I NEVER hurt dogs that I train.  I have never found it necessary!  Timing-out a dog is all that is needed to teach them to STOP certain behaviors.

The following are considered "unpleasant" to dogs.  Things that hurt may be successful in teaching a dog to STOP certain behaviors.  However they have additional risks.  Furthermore, Hurting an animal that is AFRAID is NEVER, EVER APPROPRIATE!!!

Positive Punishment does not mean (+) as in GOOD!!!!  Positive (+) means ADDED.  A Positive Punishment make behavior go down (all punishers drive behavior DOWN) because of something YUCKY ADDED (shock, slap, leash pop).  Dogs find P+ unpleasant!

Negative Reinforcement does not mean (-) as in bad!!!!  Negative (-) means subtracted.  A Negative Reinforcer makes behavior go up (all reinforcers drive behavior UP) because of something YUCKY ENDING (choking stops, ear pinch stops, pinning ends).  Dogs find R- unpleasant!  They comply with commands taught by R- because if they do not the yucky stuff continues to happen.  Only when they sit, stop barking, or lay down does the torture end.

TIMING OUT A DOG

1. Mark it!  It is important to catch your dog attempting to do something naughty.  If you are late, or missed the naughty behavior there is nothing you can do, but admonish yourself.  If you do catch your dog in the act, give a big, loud "Too-bad!" or "Uh-oh!"
2. Immediately follow the marker with action.  Be calm and deliberate.  Remember you are trying to bum your dog out, not freak them out!
3. Remove your dog from what they were enjoying.

If your dog was getting attention and then jumped on a guest, stop petting the dog.  Walk out of the room or lead the dog to a leash that is secured to a wall, door or banister.  Clip the dog and walk away.  Say as little as possible:  "Too-bad."  Get dog, clip walk, walk away for 5-10 seconds.  Unclip the dog.  Repeat if necessary.

If your dog jumps to steal food, mark-it and time-out your dog for 5-10 seconds.  Shut your dog in the bathroom, or put the dog on a tie-down

If your dog was naughty while playing off-leash, mark-it and then leash your dog.  Leave the park after 3-strikes.

If your puppy nipped while playing, mark it (Ouch!), drop the toy and walk away.  End the game after 3-strikes.

If your puppy fails to perform a known command, such as sit, mark it and DO NOT GIVE YOUR DOG A SECOND CHANCE.  Put the toy down, or put the treat back in the jar.  Even toss the bone into the crate, but shut the dog out so they can't get it.

NEVER PUNISH (even with time-outs)  Growling, Snarling or Fighting.  These behaviors are likely rooted in fear.  Contact a certified trainer who can help you apply Classical Conditioning to fix the underlying fear.

A FIST-BUMP... of course!

At the very least a Presidential Pup needs a Presidential Paw Shake.  SHAKE is one of the first tricks I teach in class.  Its a great way to get the stress of "obedience" out of the way so that everyone can learn.  The dogs easily pick up this fun trick and it can quickly be used to prevent jumping and can also be used later as a reward for complying with obedience commands such as sit, down and stay.

TEACHING YOUR PUP TO RAISE THEIR PAW

Make sure you have a marker word that means:  "You did it!"

Choose a tasty treat -something that will fit in your fist.

Leash your pup.

Prevent your pup from wandering off, step on the leash.

Grip the treat in your fist.

Hold your fist in front of your dog's nose.

Allow your pup to sniff and nuzzle at your fist.

If your pup nibbles at your hand, pull your hand away and hide it behind your back for 3-5 seconds.

Present your fist again and continue to allow your pup to nuzzle and sniff at the treat in your fist.

WATCH YOUR PUP'S PAWS!

The moment your pup lifts a paw, MARK IT!  Use a clicker or your marker-word and then Treat your dog.

Don't wait to long, or set your expectations too high!  Take the first little, itty-bitty attempt your pup puts forth.  Even if all your pup does is lift a paw ever so slightly.  Mark it and pay your dog with a HUGE, TASTY TREAT!

Repeat this until your dog lifts her paw the moment you present your fist.

When your dog is consistently lifting her paw then you change the game...

Don't mark the paw-lift!  WAIT.

Raise your standard.  Use your marker-word only if your pup lift her paw up higher than she had been doing in the past.  

AND, if your pup slaps your fist with her paw, MARK-IT and TREAT!  Use a fantastic treat or lots of yummy treats given al at once.

Expect to teach this trick over several sessions.

I am over The Alpha Role!  

The photo was taken while two dogs were PLAYING!

Notice that the Pitt Bull is NOT touching the Shepherd.  The Shepherd offered this submissive role in play.  Also note the raised paw of the Pittie -she is NOT pinning the shepherd or holding him down!  The Shepherd is mock-groveling because these two dogs were doing what I call "playing house."  They dug a den, had a play-fight, humped, chased, dug and had another small mock-domestic dispute.  In this photo Frank-e, the Shepherd, is rehearsing an apology (maybe he dragged dirt into the den who knows!)  The point is and apology by definition can't be FORCED!  An apology is OFFERED!!!!!  

Humans Get It WRONG AGAIN!  

Today at the dog park, I saw a man viciously pin his dog to the ground.   He squeezed the 40lb. dog by the neck with he slammed to the ground while pinning the dog's chest with his knee.  I have learned that free advice is not always taken well and rather than be punishing, I simply walked away.  Many others walked away as it was uncomfortable to watch.  

You must be wondering what did his dog do?  The offense was normal and healthy dog communication.  There was no damage, no fight, the dog simply growled and snapped at another big, rambunctious dog for coming near his ball.  His owner creamed his dog for this, but did he teach his dog not to do that?  We can't be sure.  Learning is a CHANGE in behavior, we would have to be in a similar situation and observe what the dog chose to do next time.  

My concern is that the dog who was "corrected" may have been so terrified by his owner that he was unable to make a connection between his behavior (a normal dog communication) and the punishment.  What he might have learned was a simpler equation.  Dogs coming near = trouble.  Therefore, keep dogs away before they get close.  I have seen the outcome of this in many dogs.  It starts off with a dog who will growl at a dog for coming near the ball when they have it and snow-balls into a dog that lunges and attacks any dog that comes within 10 feet of their ball.

It is over-used, over-done and I am OVER IT!

But you don't have to take my word for it.  Experts (lots of them) agree.

See what Wikipedia says...

Dogs can be punished for naughty, rude or inappropriate behavior.  Punishments do not need to scare, hurt or intimidate your dog.  You can punish your dog by REMOVING REWARDS.  Removing Rewards is a humane way to communicate to your dog that you were displeased with their behavior and that such behaviors will have consequences.  

Consequences change behaviors.  Telling your dog, "No" is not a consequence;it is a marker, and unless paired with an action, "No" will mean nothing to your dog.  Most dogs respond to harsh words and handling with appeasement gestures (ears back, licking, rolling, cowering).  Appeasement gestures are your dogs way of saying, "Please stop."  It does NOT mean that they understand why you are upset!

There are several ways to Remove Rewards (humanely punish your dog), but before any punishments are given it is important to make sure that the following have been addressed.

1.  Has the dog had ample opportunity to learn what behavior(s) are appropriate?

Punishments only tell a dog how they got it wrong.  It is faster and more effective to spend some time teaching your dog what you expect.  Your dog will need you to help them get it right.  Management tools such as leashes, gates, toys and treats are often helpful.

For example:  When I am working with a friendly puppy who jumps on guests, I often set up a gate near the entrance or attach a leash to a nearby banister or door.  When the doorbell rings the dog is put on the leash or behind the gate so they can't jump on the guest.  When the guest enters the puppy will have the chance to practice sitting for a cookie or toy.  If the puppy is too wiggly or excited to sit, then everyone walks away for 5-10 seconds.  When we return the puppy is allowed to try again try.  This type of system is error-proof.  The puppy can't get it WRONG (jump) and the failure to get it RIGHT (sit) is punished by having the guest and owner/guardian leave.

2.  Are you certain you know what your dog wants?

Knowing what your dog wants in any given situation is critical.  How YOU want to reward your dog is not always WHAT YOUR DOG WANTS.  Inadvertently giving your dog what they want when they are naughty is a sure way to create frustration.  I have often found that dogs can be rewarded with the strangest things:  access to sniffing; permission to tree a squirrel; returning to a favorite spot or person; being let out or into a yard or car; being given more playtime.  These are all "Real-Life" Rewards.  The trick to using them as rewards is being able to prevent free-access to them so that you can GIVE them when the dog is behaving.

For example:  On the way to the dog park your dog might pull.  If you are trying to use treats to get your dog to walk next to you, you might or might NOT be successful because what your dog wants is TO GET TO THE PARK!  Penalty yards away from the park might be a reward-removal that effectively reduces pulling if your dog is not responding to food rewards for walking nicely.

3.  Is your dog scared or upset?

If your dog is growling, snapping, biting, or lunging they may be scared or upset.  Although these are dangerous and inappropriate behaviors, punishing fear-based behaviors is NOT a solution.  Contact a certified trainer.

For Example:  If my dog is chewing a bone and growls at me when I approach, my dog is upset!  Growling is a communication that says, "No, I don't want to give up the bone."  I do not want to be growled at, but punishing my dog for growling (a reaction, not a planned behavior) will only prove to my dog that he SHOULD be upset when I approach him chewing a bone because I predict a punishment.  Classical Conditioning is a better solution.

HOW TO REMOVE REWARDS

1.  Prevent access to stuff your dog wants with doors, leashes, gates.  

At the front door if my dog pushes his nose into the crack before I am ready to let her out, I shut the door.  Only when she is sitting and waiting will the door open, or will she be released "free-dog" to leave.  Until then, I keep shutting the door.  No yelling, no screaming, no commands --the door just stays shuts.

2. Removing Access to stuff your dog is enjoying.  

If you call your dog at the park and they are too busy playing with their dog friends to come to you.  Say "Too-Bad!"  Then go get your dog, leash them and either clip them to a post, put them in the car, or walk away from the doggie play-party zone.

3.  Ending the fun.

If you are playing TUG with your dog and your dog does not drop the toy, then let go of the toy (no fun to tug alone) and walk away.  If your dog is rude at the park, say "Too-Bad" and leave.

4.  Time-Outs.  

If your dog is barking at you while you are on the phone because they want attention you can give a time-out by: 1. walking to the another room and shutting the door (opposite of what dog wanted).  2. You can take the dog and put them in a Time-out space (the former puppy confinement area works well).  

If your dog jumps on a guest, you can say, "Too-bad" and clip your dog to a leash which is attached somewhere away from fun stuff/people, or put them behind a gate that creates a no-fun space.  

NOTES:

"Too-Bad" is a marker.  It must be used at the exact moment your dog commits the offense & you MUST be willing to carry out the Reward-Removal!!!