Pet Product Review - Yummy Chummies Original Salmon Soft n' Chewy

Very simply. Here is a new product that I absolutely love: Yummy Chummies Original Salmon Soft n' Chewy.

Finally the goodness of salmon and its omega-3 rich nutrients are captured in a biscuit form. My dog Charlie absolutely loves these biscuits and they were great treat for use in training and obedience.

There are several LEASH TRICKS that I teach all dogs.  Mostly this is to ease my own frustration; I am lazy about leashes.  I want the dog to think about and work at keeping the leash out of trouble.

These are my TOP LEASH-SKILL ANNOYANCES. 

• Stepping over the leash...
• Winding around the wrong side of a pole...
• Cutting from side to side & stalling to sniff...

I'm not unreasonable, I realize that it is normal dog behavior.  In fact, I expected that most green dogs will do these things.  This doesn't mean that you can't change their behavior.  Before you expect your dog to change their behavior, you must put some time into teaching them new behaviors.  These new behaviors will eventually replace the old behaviors.

MY FIRST & FAVORITE Leash Trick, "FIX-IT!"

I use FIX-IT in situations where dogs step over the leash.  Puppies do this a lot and get the leash stuck in their paw-pit.  Once its stuck under their leg, they tend to either stall or have a temper tantrum and chew at the leash.  This is understandable, but it can lead to a chain of attention-seeking behaviors that later become a problem.

I prefer teaching FIX-IT on my terms.  By this I mean that a start off each walk deliberately placing the leash under one paw and then practice the FIX-IT with lots of help and rewards.  Then if the leash gets stuck on the walk, we practice again.

How To Teach "FIX-IT"

WHAT YOU NEED:

• A 5-6' leather or nylon leash.

• 15-20 pieces of a yummy treat such as cheese, chicken, or soft dog treats.

• A flat surface.

• A clicker (optional)

  
  
  

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Clip a  5-6' leash on your pups FLAT BUCKLE/CLIP COLLAR.
2. Allow the leash to drag on the ground so that your pup steps over it (avoid handling your pups paws!)
3. Gently lift the leash.  Your pups paw should be relaxed and you should be able to raise and lower the paw several times.
4. If the leash gets stuck in the armpit, you are using too much tension; give your leash more slack.
5. If your puppy chews the leash, you are using too much tension; give your leash more slack.
6. If your pup does any lifting of the paw on her own, Praise (or, click) & Feed (regardless of where the leash is).
7. Continue to gentle lift and lower the leash which will raise your dogs paw.  Do this slowly.
8. Praise (click) & Feed all attempts by the pup to lift their own leg.
9. As soon as the leash is unstuck, JACKPOT* (toss 5-10 treats) to your dog.
10. Continue this for 5-10 minutes at the beginning of all walks for about 1-week.
11. You will soon notice that your pup quickly and easily raises her paw when the leash gets stuck.
12. When you are certain that your pup "knows" what he is doing, then you can say, "FIX-IT"
13. When you add the command, only Praise & Treat the dog if you use the command.  Occasionally omit the command, wait for your dog to fix the leash and then move on without Praising & Treating  --this will motivate your dog to do it faster when you say "FIX-IT."

*Jackpot your dog, even if you think it was an accident that the leash become untuck.  In the beginning your dog does not need to have intentionally done the job.

Unless you plan on competing with your dog in obedience training, you do NOT need a formal HEEL.

HEEL -A position in obedience training where the dog holds his/her position at the left leg on the handler with the dogs nose roughly at the same plane as the handlers outside pant seam.  This position is maintained by the dog regardless of if or how the handler moves (forward, backward, turning, stopping).

I am amazed by the number of clients who seem to feel that they MUST forcefully hold their dog on a tight, short leash while walking.  This is NOT needed.

If fact, it tends to cause problems for the handler and the dog.  A tight leash can actually cause a dog to behave aggressively.  

It is always better to walk a dog on a loose leash.  Training the dog to keep the leash loose is the first and most important step towards enjoying a walk with your dog.

TEACHING LOOSE-LEASH WALKING  -kindergarden level

1.  Choose a collar or harness that does not pull on a dog's neck or back.  

Most flat-collars are good for keeping tags on your dog, but they are not good for walking dogs on leash.  

Pinch and Prong-collars are designed to hurt the dog for making mistakes (pulling), but hurting the dog can have serious side-effects such as increased aggression.  There are many reasons that these collars should never be used, but the best reason is that you can accomplish the same goal faster and more effectively without them.  

Back-clipping harnesses are a great way to reduce pressure on a dogs neck and throat, but they help a dog pull and are useless for teaching a dog to walk nicely on leash.  

****There are two great options for helping your dog walk nicely (no pulling on leash).  Front-clipping harnesses are becoming very popular and dogs tend to adjust to them quickly.  These are fantastic walking harnesses and they do not hurt the dog.  Another option is to use a head-collar.  

For more on these devices, CLICK HERE.

2.  Set time aside for training.  

Hold your dog's leash in your right hand.  If your dog is on your left this will mean that the leash crosses in front of your body -this is OK.

Hold some tasty treats in your left hand near your dogs nose.

Keep your dog interested in the treats, but do not let your dog eat them.

If your dog jumps for the treats or tries to nibble your hand.  Pull your hand away and put it behind your back.  

If your dog has all 4 paws on the ground and is walking nicely next to you, PRAISE your dog THEN give them one of the treats from your hand.

Can Old Dogs Learn New Tricks?

I am often asked, "Is it too late to train my dog?"  

99.9% of the time the answer is "NO, It is never too late to work on training!"  

While I am only too happy to make exceptions for dogs who are physically limited (blindness, deafness, incontinence, etc...) I am generally NOT inclined to excuse bad behavior on the basis of age.  

This is not to say that old HABITS won't be more difficult to change.

But, for the most part: Training a dog, is training a dog.  

There are 3 basic parts.

1) Establishing a GOAL.

2) Breaking your goal into SMALL STEPS that your dog can achieve.

3) Providing encouragement, support and REINFORCING SUCCESS.

However, it can be difficult to focus on training new behaviors when you are busy dealing with the results of older, more annoying behaviors.  

A common mistake is to put energy into the wrong end of the behavior equation.  My clients are often too focused on "the best way to punish their dogs bad behavior."  In their zest for finding the perfect punisher (squirt, pinch, roll, choke, pin, rub, shock, squeeze) the miss the point completely.  

I read that I should ...

Somebody told me to ...

I heard that dogs need ...

I was thinking I would try ...

My neighbor used a ...

Focusing on "what to do when your dog messes up" is a terrible plan!  Imagine if airline safety focussed 90% of their energy on what to do when the planes crash.  

This is not to say that I don't punish bad behavior.  The only way to reduce any behavior is to punish it, but punishments are tricky to do well.  Most dog owners dole out punishments that are late or too harsh.  Or, they don't even punish the dog they just nag it or say something and follow that with no consequences.  

When punishments are done badly they ruin relationships and dogs.  If you want to successfully teach a dog to DO something BETTER, you must REWARD the things they are doing RIGHT.  Sometimes your dog will need help getting there.

Goals help you form a reasonable plan.

Try picturing "Your Perfectly Behaved Dog."

What is she doing?

Here is example:

When my family is eating I would like my dog to lie on her bed quietly.  This is a GOAL!  

"I don't want my dog to beg." is NOT a goal, it is an unreasonable request for an animal that evolved as a scavenger.

When guests come over, I want my dog to sit in the hallway while I answer the door.  This is ALSO A GOAL.  

"I'm sick of my dog jumping on people." is NOT a goal, it is a complaint.

In short, your older dog CAN learn new tricks, but you might have to spend some extra time helping them get things right.  Remember just KNOWING better is not enough.  Your older dog will have a long history of doing things their way.  Be patient, set reasonable goals, help them get it right and MOST IMPORTANTLY  --REWARD, REWARD, REWARD.  In fact, even if you feel like you did most of the work, you MUST still reward your dog.  This will give them incentive to try it your way again.

Pet Products Review -Finny Pet Products Leash Light

Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best.  And thats what I think of Finy Pet Products Leash Light.  Today, I heard sunset is going to be at 8:12pm.  What that means is that there is even more time to get outdoors with you best mate and take cherished walks longer and later than before.  But, don't get caught too far away, and then be in the dark. Remember, not only are people and pets walking later, so are cyclists, motorists and rollerbladers.  With all of this warm weather congestion, you need a Finny Pet Products Leash Light.

Finny Pet Products Leash Light is an attachable flashlight that adheres to any Flexi brand extendable leash with super strong velcro.  Light, portable and adds saftey.  I think its a good product and at only $7.99 affordable.  Buy yours on their site at: 

http://www.finnypetproducts.com/finny_catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=387&osCsid=776689ab23cf2b7191b7406a46412f96

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