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Showing 13 posts about dog leashes
(see also: dog supplies)
TUESDAY, DECEMBER 30, 2008 9:47 AM
this is a featured post by a Dogtime blogger

This question came as a comment from the following post.

DECEMBER 27, 2008, 8:57 AM

My rescue dog is a large German Shepherd surrendered to a shelter by her owner in California. She is a good dog and smart but has never been trained. She had a computer name only so does not know her new name. I want her to come when I call her. She has never had treats. She takes them then drops them. I take her and my other rescue dog on walks on a leash but can not trust either to come back if they were loose. Any ideas. Thanks.


Dear GS Rescuer,
It sounds like you have rather skittish, perhaps shy or fearful GS.  Many rescued dogs are UNDER-SOCIALIZED.  This means that they were not exposed to much during puppyhood and regard everything as "new" and therefore potentially scary.  In particular puppies, especially those kept sheltered during the critical time of  8-16 weeks, often become shy or fearful adult dogs.  My clients often assume that a severely "shut-down" dog was abused.  This may or may not be the case, please remember that inadequate exposure of a young puppy to the world is a form of abuse
Fearfulness in adult dogs is a concern to veterinarians and trainers because it can lead to aggression.  Fear is defined by an animal avoiding new things, fleeing from new things, or attempting to make new things go away (barking, lunging, growling, snapping).  Which of these methods a dog chooses to do first depends on the animal, previous experiences, and the reaction.  One sign of fear is anorexia (extreme fear may cause an animal to spit out food, or act uninterested).  Another sign of fear is a dog who grabs/takes treats awkwardly or with sloppy jaws

For your rescue GS I would recommend the following:

1.  Make sure you have outstanding treats.
It sounds as if your dog is globally fearful.  This means that she is stressed out and afraid just being outside (maybe she was kept in a yard or garage as a pup).  You have the delightful challenge of making her think that all new places are terrific.  Because you are attempting to make your new dog LOVE places, these places will need to predict wonderful things.  I recommend boiled chicken, roast beef, or cheese.  The point is, don't go cheap!  Give great rewards and only give these great rewards outside.
2.  Try tossing the treats to your new dog.
Some dogs have been taught to anticipate a punishment for taking food from the hand.  See if tossing it on the ground in front of your dog makes a difference.  Also try taking just your new dog on a few walks until she feels comfortable with you and the route and can take treats.
3.  Have your dog drag a really long line that you can step on to get her back.
Or, if your dog truly gets along with the other dogs better than any people, try leashing your new dog to a dog with great re-call.  Always supervise these interactions!!!  When you call your older dog, also use your new dog's name.  Offer her a treat each time they both get back, then release her to "Go!" again, whether she takes the treat or not. Give it time.
4.  Most Importantly...
Go to as many NEW PLACES as you can.  Pick a quiet spot and with your rescued dog leashed (A NON-AVERSIVE COLLAR PLEASE), place several tasty treats on the ground around her.  Then, just wait.  Do not encourage her--just read a book, magazine, or listen to some music.  If after 20 minutes she doesn't eat, don't worry.  Pick up the food and try a new spot the next day (or even the same spot).  Repeat until she eats the treats as soon as you place them down.
You can choose to skip a meal or to feed a light meal before you head out to a training spot, but it is not necessary.  Your dog needs to:
Go to new places ----> Have good things happen (treats) ----> Have NOTHING BAD happen ----> Leave and return to safety!  
This needs to be repeated until your dog believes that this will always be the way things are.
GOOD LUCK!

et Products Review - PAWZ, Natural Rubber, Waterproof Dog Boots

pawz
Well, its winter here on the east coast, and today, New York City had over 8 inches of snow.  My dog Champ simply loves the snow.  He plays and frolicks and digs.  He is truly at his happiest when he is in the snow.  But this does cause concern for me, because all of the harsh chemicals and salts that they put on our city streets are very unhealthy for dogs.


I've tried every boot imaginable, and the only one I've found that works is PAWS all natural rubber and water.  The PAWZ boots are like balloon bladders.  They simply slip over your dogs paws and away he goes.  They are such cute little booties.  They remind me of the rubber nose Rudolph wore to hide his nose.  People stop and stare they are so adorable.

pawzpaws

PAWZ boots are disposable but can be used time and time again.  1 package will last a whole season.  Its nice when you can actually throw away a doggie boot rather than lose one.  PAWZ boots stay on.  The package comes with 12 boots. When one wears out, you simply toss it. Plus, they come in sizes, so you know the boots you buy actually do fit your dog.  Not to mention the snappy colors.

champsnowchampsnow2

PAWZ are not just for winter, they protect angainst harmful elements all year long.  Here are some of the baddies they keep off your pets paws:
Ice, Lawn Chemicals, Salt, Liquid Chloride, Snow, Fire Ants, Pool Liner Tears, Mud, Clay, Pad Rashes, Post-Surgical Infection, Post-Grooming Dirt, Hot Pavement, and solves traction control problems.

My recommendation always keep a package of PAWZ dog boots in the house.  I bought my PAWZ at Spoil Brats in New York, but go to www.pawzdogboots.com for a retailer near you.

If you have a product you think will pass the Secret Shopper test, send an email to SecretShopperBlog@gmail.com

 

Pet Products Review - Flush Puppies

flush puppies

Flush Puppies?  What are they? new shoes? a stuffed doll?  No! they are a genius new green product that I came across.  Started by 3 very smart University of Florida students, who all have concern, not just for the environment, but keeping their neighborhood and play areas clean and bacteria free, the Flush Puppies team created bags to pick up your dog's poop.  Sounds like your average sandwich bag, except Flush Puppies bags are completely water-soluble, so dog droppings can be flushed down the toilet.  While leaving dog poop on the ground, or even throwing it in the trash, can allow its harmful bacteria and parasites to seep into the groundwater, Flush Puppies gives dog-owners a cleaner option. Dog poop can now be processed the same way as human waste – by utilizing the toilet and sewage system,
not the landfill

Think about it, why should the poor sanitation guys have to deal with our dog's smelly poop all day? For their consideration here is a way to improve their lives.  Also, what if you're walking in a park or a more romote street, clean up after your dog, and bring it home.  Plus, its great for accidents in the house or your apartment building.  Every house should have a box of Flush Puppies.

Flush Puppies is a biodegradable, water soluble, uniquely flushable pet waste disposal bag. Designed for responsible dog owners and environmentally conscious consumers, Flush Puppies means a cleaner neighborhood and a leaner landfill is just one flush away. For more information, or to purchase the
bags, head to www.flushpuppies.com.

 

If you've got a product you think will pass the Secret Shopper test, send an email to SecretShopperBlog@gmail.com

 

TUESDAY, DECEMBER 09, 2008 10:57 AM

 

A FIST-BUMP... of course!

Fist Bump

At the very least a Presidential Pup needs a Presidential Paw Shake.  SHAKE is one of the first tricks I teach in class.  Its a great way to get the stress of "obedience" out of the way so that everyone can learn.  The dogs easily pick up this fun trick and it can quickly be used to prevent jumping and can also be used later as a reward for complying with obedience commands such as sit, down and stay.

 

TEACHING YOUR PUP TO RAISE THEIR PAW

Make sure you have a marker word that means:  "You did it!"

Choose a tasty treat -something that will fit in your fist.

Leash your pup.

Prevent your pup from wandering off, step on the leash.

Grip the treat in your fist.

Hold your fist in front of your dog's nose.

Allow your pup to sniff and nuzzle at your fist.

If your pup nibbles at your hand, pull your hand away and hide it behind your back for 3-5 seconds.

Present your fist again and continue to allow your pup to nuzzle and sniff at the treat in your fist.

WATCH YOUR PUP'S PAWS!

The moment your pup lifts a paw, MARK IT!  Use a clicker or your marker-word and then Treat your dog.

Don't wait to long, or set your expectations too high!  Take the first little, itty-bitty attempt your pup puts forth.  Even if all your pup does is lift a paw ever so slightly.  Mark it and pay your dog with a HUGE, TASTY TREAT!

Repeat this until your dog lifts her paw the moment you present your fist.

When your dog is consistently lifting her paw then you change the game...

Don't mark the paw-lift!  WAIT.

Raise your standard.  Use your marker-word only if your pup lift her paw up higher than she had been doing in the past.  

AND, if your pup slaps your fist with her paw, MARK-IT and TREAT!  Use a fantastic treat or lots of yummy treats given al at once.

Expect to teach this trick over several sessions.

MONDAY, DECEMBER 08, 2008 12:36 PM
this is a featured post by a Dogtime blogger



Every dog should learn to come when called; it's a matter of safety.  


It is often easier to teach a puppy to come when called than it is to teach an adult dog.  This is because a puppy is naturally responsive to happy sounding, high-pitched noises.  These noises can be used in conjunction with running backwards, crouching down, and patting the legs to help a puppy respond correctly after the recall command has been given.  To maintain this behavior a food or toy reward should be given to the puppy once they reach the person who called them.

 

Teaching the older dog to come when called is easy too.


Many of my clients have dogs that are older, or who have been recently adopted.  These dogs are often able to go off-leash on hikes, or to parks, beaches, and dog runs without running away or getting in trouble.  However, many of them will not (or only rarely) come when called.  Generally these clients have been getting by without recall, but would prefer to have better control of their dogs at the park.  For these clients and their dogs it is often unnecessary to follow standard management practices, such as having the dog drag a long leash.  The following exercises are often all that is needed to get started with teaching your dog to come when called. 

 

 

Recall Exercises for well-behaved, older dogs.


 

1) You can't get them to come when called if they can't even look at you when you say their name.  

Practice this on leash walks first.  Say your dog's name, then stop walking forward.  Stand still and remain calm.  Say nothing.  DO NOT REPEAT YOUR DOG'S NAME.  Wait and watch your dog.  As soon as your dog turns and looks at you (usually because they can't figure out why you are being so still and quiet) clearly mark your dog's behavior with a word that means you like what they did.  Then give them a tasty treat and continue walking forward.  Later, try this when your dog is off-leash and has little or no distractions.  Finally, try it with distractions.  If your dog doesn't look at you, simply walk away (no reprimand and no reward).

 

NOTES ON MARKING WHAT YOU LIKE

  • When you mark things that your dog does that you like, use one word.
  • Always use the same word.
  • Pick a word that is special--something you don't use all the time.
  • Use the marker word like a camera to catch exactly the moment of success.
  • Always follow the marker word with a valuable reward (food, toy, access).
  • When your dog has learned the behavior and is successful 95% of the time you can start giving rewards for only the best responses.  Continue to praise your dog for all correct responses, but use the marker word only if you intend to reward the dog with food, toys, or access to something they wanted.

 

 

2) The first rule of teaching a new behavior is to make sure that your dog can do it.  

After your dog is consistently offering the new behavior (sitting, coming, speaking) THEN you can call it something and reward your dog only when you command them to show a specific behavior.  To do this I have my clients GIVE their dog HUGE REWARDS for Auto Check-Ins.  

 

When rewarding your dog for AUTO CHECK-INS you will NOT CALL your dog.

  • Wait for your dog to be willing come to you--even if they are only 10 feet close.
  • With your best happy voice PRAISE YOUR DOG LIKE MAD!
  • THEN give your dog a fantastic reward--something TRULY YUMMY!!!!
  • Now walk away.
  • Watch your dog closely.  Try to guess when your dog is going to come to check-in and get a treat.
  • When you are 90% accurate on guessing when your dog is about to come to you, then start calling your dog right before they are about to check-in.
  • Then stop feeding your dog for auto check-ins and only feed your dog when you call them.