Before your puppy reaches 4-months of age they should be comfortable having food, toys, and food items (bones, kongs, bowls) taken away.  This training is most successful when started early.  Ideally the puppy’s owner’s/guardian’s will encourage a wide variety of people to participate in these exercises daily until the puppy is 6-months to 1-year of age.

Sleep-Startle:  Letting your dog sleep on the couch, bed, or chairs does not make your dog a location-guarder.  Dog's who are genetically or behaviorally prone to guarding can and will learn to guard whatever they have access to, such as their dog bed.  Preventing guarding is not possible using management only (i.e. never letting your dog on the couch).  

I am especially prone to do these exercises with dog breeds that sleep deeply and get dug-into locations.  Hounds are notorious for liking warm, snugly locations and for disliking being disturbed while sleeping.  To prevent your dog from guarding locations you will need to complete several exercises including teaching your dog to LOVE being startled awake.

• Wait until your dog is sleeping soundly.
• Toss a pillow, sock, or other soft object at your dog's body.
• As soon as it hits your dog, cheer wildly.
• While cheering begin making your way to the cookie jar.
• Give your dog (or toss a treat if they did not move).  Make sure the treat is something really, really special.  I suggest dried meat, cheese, or a very, very large tasty dog treat that is soft and stinky.
• Repeat this often until your dog practically wags his tail and charges to the cookie jar once startled awake.
• Try loud noises next.
• Try petting your dog while it sleeps.
• Never punish growling.  If your dog ever growls, stiffens, snarls, or stares at you, contact a trainer immediately.

Bowl-Approach:  Teach your dog that people, hands, and faces (especially if you have kids) that approach their bowl are a good thing!  Dogs GUARD valuable things.  All dogs are natural guarders unless they have been deliberately bred to have less guarding.  Even with careful breeding genetic variations are a natural occurrence and it would not be impossible for two non-guarding dogs to produce some puppies that have a higher propensity to guard.  Punishment a dog for guarding will VERY LIKELY make the guarding worse.  Instead, plan ahead and begin some prevention exercises when your puppy is still young.

• When your puppy is eating, approach the food bowl and drop a tasty treat into the bowl.
• Then walk away.
• Repeat 2-3 times during the same meal.
• Repeat this until your dog wags her tail as she sees you approach.  This may take 10-20 feedings.
• Make sure your puppy is giving you a loose, wiggly, wag!
• When you are confident that your puppy likes this game, change the rules.
• Approach the bowl and add nothing.
• Approach again, touch your puppy, Feed!
• Approach again, and DO NOT TOUCH your puppy, non food.
• Repeat this every time you feed your puppy, until your pup only gets excited when you pet her.
• Change the rules again.  Push your puppy's head away from the bowl, FEED!
• Approach again, but only pet your puppy's back.  No Food!
• Approach again, push and feed.

Object-exchange:  When your dog has a toy, they should be willing to let you take their toy.  Growling is OK in play, but should not be accompanied by a stiff body, hard stare or any snarling (teeth show).  One great way to teach your dog to drop an item on request is by playing tug!  In addition to playing tug, teach your dog to LOVE having objects taken away.

• When your dog has a toy or bone approach your dog with a treat or another favorite toy.
• Temp your dog with the food or the "live" ball that you have.
• As soon as your dog drops their bone or toy, praise them.
• Reward your dog with a short game of tug or with the food treat immediately.
• Repeat often.
• When your dog catches on to this game, add a command.  Drop, Leave, Out are all common names for this command.  Say the command then tempt your dog.  If they get it right, praise and reward.
• If they do not drop the toy, walk away.  Try again.

Bone/Kong Swap: Feeding a dog with a Kong is a great way to make food-time into a energy burner.  I like to stuff all of my dogs daily calories into Kongs and to feed several Kongs each day.  Kongs are a great way to keep my puppies, busy, quiet and out of trouble.  Because the Kong is a valuable toy & a food-delivery device, dogs can become possessive over theirs Kongs.  Teach your dog that when you take the Kong, it is worth it!

• While your puppy is eating her kong, take the Kong away.
• Go to your kitchen and add something extra tasty to the top of the Kong -cream cheese, chicken baby food, peanut butter...
• Return the improved Kong to your pup.

Couch-Removal:  I like to teach dogs to LOVE being grabbed by the collar.  This is especially important for a dogs safety and for good relations in the home.  I do allow my dogs on my bed, couch, and other furniture.  The only rule is that they must get off if asked and they must tolerate my pushing and pulling them around and out of my way.

• Grab your puppy's collar and lead them 1-2 steps in any direction.
• Praise your pup the entire time.
• Then give your puppy a yummy treat.
• Repeat over and over again.
• Gently nudge your puppy with your feet, praise & treat!
• Say, "Off!" then grab your pup's collar.
• Guide them gently off the couch and praise them.
• Give your dog a treat.
• Never punish your dog if they growl!
• Contact a certified trainer immediately if your puppy growls or snaps at you.

Pet Products Review - Chewy Louie Beef flavored Bone-shaped Treats by RedBarn

When I saw the Chewy Louie product brands on the shelf I couldn't help but pick them up and want to know more.  This whole brand is so "surfer-dude", bright colors, big print, Even the announcement "Put Some Kick In Your Cookie".   Sounded like fun, so we tried them.

The biscuits do very much resemble cookies.  They are shaped like bones and have a red beef flavored filling that is layered on.  Much like icing on a holiday cookie.  The size of the bone is certainly a mouthful that your pup, not just one snap gobble.   Packaging described in detail all of the many many vitamins and ingredients the first two being, wheat flour and poultry meal, so it is a bisquit.  They claim the crunchy texture provides the added benefit of promoting good dental health.  Personnaly I think this is getting over-rated play.   But, it cant hurt, eh?

Now at first, Champ did turn his nose up at the Chewy Louie bone treat; but that is normal at first.  It takes him a while to know the treat is for him.  After eating his first Chewie Louie, he looked at me and asked for more.  Now when I go near the jar where I keep the treat, he does get excited.

Chewie Louie Beef Flavored bone shaped treats are good, but a luxury.  A 14oz bag with about 12 bone shaped treats cost $7 per bag, or 4 bags for $20 on www.redbarninc.com. 

If you've got a product you think will pass the Secret Shopper Test, send and email to SecretShopperBlog@gmail.com

Separation anxiety seems to have made the BUZZ WORD Top Ten List.  I've had numerous clients call and report that they need help treating their dog's separation anxiety. Recently, several of these clients have had puppies that are between the ages of 10-14 weeks of age.  When questioned it becomes apparent that what the owners/guardians are concerned about is that their dogs have separation anxiety disorder.  

I do NOT believe in diagnosing puppies with separation anxiety.  Sep-Anx./separation anxiety is a diagnosis of a abnormal behavior or disorder.  Many behaviors that appear in dogs with separation anxiety can also occur in dogs with no anxiety.  In other words, just because your dog or puppy barks when you leave does NOT mean they have separation anxiety.

Puppies that bark and whine when left alone are displaying NORMAL, AGE-APPROPRIATE behaviors.  Treating a puppy's normal separation distress with the protocol for separation anxiety disorder may not be wrong, nor will it likely make the problem worse, but it does waste valuable time, energy, and resources.

In canine literature, descriptions and treatments for separation anxiety are often given by trainers, behaviorists, and veterinarians.  What is often laking in these articles is basic information regarding the difference between NORMAL, AGE APPROPRIATE separation anxiety and the ABNORMAL, PSYCHOLOGICAL CONDITION known as separation anxiety disorder.  Interestingly, this is a developmental stage with similarities to human development.

Barking and whining are normal behaviors for young puppies separated from others in their litter or family.  Furthermore, it is very easy to teach a puppy or dog that barking is the fastest and easiest way to get something--namely people to come back into the room, or to free them from a confinement area or crate.  This does not mean that barking is not annoying, or that it must be tolerated.

ALL puppies must learn how to be alone.  This is often an uncomfortable lesson to learn and teach as the puppies have to go through the unfamiliar task of being alone.  Puppies that do NOT EXPERIENCE BEING ALONE are the dogs that will later develop separation anxiety disorder.  In general I use the crate to teach puppies how to be alone.  

It is important to allow the puppy to fully EXPERIENCE being alone safely and successfully and to LEARN that whining/howling/barking DOES NOT bring people back.  To do this some careful planning helps.

First, make sure you have a cozy, puppy-appropriate crate prepared.

Second, make sure your puppy is hungry (skip a meal, it won't kill them).

Third, make sure your puppy is well-exercised.

If your puppy is hungry and has played vigorously they are also likely to have recently pooped and peed.

Now, prepare a tasty kong and coax or place* your puppy in the crate with the kong.

Shut the door and place a blanket over at least three sides of the crate.

Then LEAVE.

Yup, that's it.  Your pup might bark, howl, or complain for up to 20 or 30 minutes, but they will eventually fall asleep.  After 10-15 minutes of silence, wake your pup up and let them out.  Repeat this 3-4 times a day.  Keep a daily log of how long your dog tries making noise to get out.  It will continue to drop until your dog no longer complains.  

Alone-Time Training is VERY, VERY important for ALL puppies.  Alone-Time Training is separation anxiety disorder Prevention!

* With young puppies (less then 3 months of age) you can gently nudge your pup into the crate.  If you want, you can also plan ahead and teach your pup to go into the crate for a cookie.  With adult dogs, or dogs older than 3 months of age (dogs no longer in the socialization period), DO NOT FORCE crate entry, go slow.

Is your puppy's "playful biting" becoming a problem?

WHY SO BITEY?

Look inside your puppy's mouth.  Puppies have sharp, needle-like teeth.  Your pup's teeth are sharp for a reason.  An adult dog's teeth are modeled after their wild ancestor's.  They designed to rip and tear through fur, skin and flesh; crush small bones; and tear meat and muscle into bite-sized chunks.  To do this they need strong jaws and large carnivorous teeth.  These teeth can also be used for fighting and protection; so adult dogs must learn good control over their teeth and jaws.  This learning period is called Puppyhood!

Dogs possess the ability to use their teeth with varying degrees of precision and strength.   Removing a burr from the pads of a paw requires precision, but little strength.  Chewing a hoof, bone, or bully stick requires strength, but not much precision (crunch, crush, swallow).  Fighting and playing require control over both precision and strength depending on the activity or level of threat.  You can teach your puppy (and to some degree adult dogs) to use their teeth and jaws with control.

Bite Inhibition is the ability to bite gently.  Puppies MUST learn this before they get their adult teeth, or before their socialization period has ended.  A puppy's teeth are needle-sharp for a reason.  Your puppy has not yet developed all their jaw muscles, so they are not able to bite down with all of the strength that they will eventually have.  Sharp, puppy teeth are nature's way of compensating for undeveloped jaw muscles. 

When your puppy bites the sharp teeth cause pain (even though the jaws are weak).  This makes it possible for a puppy to get feedback about how to use their teeth later in life.  When playing and arguing (fighting) dogs should not use their full strength.  This is largely determined by how much playtime a puppy is allowed.  If your puppy is never allowed to bite and chew in play they will not learn how to bite with varying degrees of pressure (gently in play or as a warning).

DEALING WITH PUPPY-BITING

Most pups are adopted into their new homes at about 8-10 weeks of age.  At this time your puppy should be allowed to bite on an adults hands and skin when playing, but only if they do so gently.  Relatively hard nips should be addressed immediately by timing out your puppy.  A sufficient time-out for a puppy that bites too hard is "OUCH!" followed by you walking away from the pup, standing up or dropping the toy.

Do NOT hit, grab, shake, roll, or smack your puppy for biting!  Remember your puppy is very impressionable at this young age and they can easily learn to be fearful of hands, feet, and people.  An adult dog who is fearful of hands is MUCH MORE LIKELY TO BITE later in life than a dog who LOVES people and is not afraid of hands!  Besides, your pup's brain is telling them to explore the world with their mouth; they will not make the connection between this hard-wired behavior and your punishment.  Instead you will ruin your relationship and teach your dog to be a fear-biter.

As your pup looses his or her puppy teeth (the top center incisors will be the first to go), begin a zero-tolerance policy to any teeth that touch your skin.  If your pup misses the toy when playing, or nibbles at your hand when you are petting them, say "OUCH!" or "Too-bad!" or "No!" and then stop interacting and walk away!  Remember, your pup will not KNOW the WORDS you choose to use.  They WILL UNDERSTAND the action that follows the word.  Resist the urge to grab your pup's mouth or to look at them when you are marking the naughty action.  Just say it and quickly end whatever you were doing.  Ending the activity (as long as it is something your pup was enjoying) is a punishment or Reward Removal.  This is sufficient for your pup to learn that the biting is inappropriate.

ODDS & ENDS

Is your puppy is biting you when your try to touch their feet, ears, tail, tummy?  Or, when you are trying to take something away from them or, move them from place to place?  Your pup may need some additional training from a professional.  A well-socialized pup should not be intolerant of handling or show unwanted guarding.  If your pup is not play-biting, but biting to say "Stop-it!" contact a trainer.

Puppy classes are NOT just for training!  Puppies need to learn BOTH dog and people skills.  Please make time for your puppy to play with other puppies.  Adult dogs are not a substitute for pup-on-pup play.  Kinder-puppy classes such as those offered are a great way for your puppy to learn obedience and important dog-play skills.

Is your pup play-chasing?  Puppies that chase and bite at feet, legs may need an outlet for their natural urge to chase.  If your pup is going after your feet, a broom or other low-down, fast-moving things trying to re-direct their play onto an appropriate item before your move to a punishment such as a time-out.  I have a three-strike policy.  I re-direct twice.  Then I use a Time-Out for the third offense.

Teach your dog to play tug! Teach your dog to play tug! Teach your dog to play tug!

Pet Products Review - Paw Pets puppet toys

Halloween just passed, and the holiday gift season is right around the corner.  If you're like me, this is also the time to spoil your pet as well as your children.

The folks over at Pet Paws sent our office some wonderful pet toys:  CrocoBob and Sharkiana.  I'm not sure what to actually call the Pet Paws products; they are toys, but also puppets.  Whatever you call them, they are fun and engaging!

Paw Pets bases its philosophy on not just having toys that you watch your pet play with, they encourage playing with your pet.  Get into the action! And in doing so, you're diminishing rough play like tug of war and encouraging them to play with a friend on healthy less aggressive level. 

The Paw Pets do fit on your hands like a glove puppet, and each part is moveable.  Our test panelist Keely the Lab played with CrocoBob.  The construction is of durable polyester plush that will stand up to hours of play and puppy cuddlin'.  However, I do not recommend this product for larger dogs as there is not much protection against strong bites.  Remember your pup may know he's playing with you, but he may not know it's your hand inside the toy.  I wouldn't recommend this toy for Barney, President Bush's Scottish Terrier quite yet.

At $29 per toy this may be the ideal holiday gift for the new puppy mommy and daddy or parents of smaller dogs and kitties.   Go to www.getpawpets.com for ordering information.

If you have a pet product you think will pass the Secret Shopper test, send an email to: secretshopperblog@gmail.com