Big Paw Blog

Many new parents fear that they’ll have to get rid of their beloved cats. The rumor is that the cat will crawl into your baby’s crib and either smother or claw him. This idea is enough to make any parent-to-be cringe, at the very least.

Fortunately, your precious kitty and your adorable new baby can get along just fine together. You don’t even have to have your cat de-clawed to protect the new baby.

The first thing you need to know is that many of the tales are just that: stories. It’s very rare for a cat to harm a baby. There are far more people who were born, and grew up, with cats and had no problems than there are people who did not survive infanthood because of their parents’ cats.

Many of the cases in which cats allegedly suffocate babies actually involve SIDS (Sudden Infant Death Syndrome), not the housecat. Cats rarely suffocate humans of any size or age.

If you love the cat, you can help him adjust to life with a new baby without getting rid of him. It’ll take a little work, but it’s worth the effort: your baby will grow up safely with a feline companion and your furry buddy won’t have to go to the pound.

Here are a few of the most important things you should do before your new baby arrives.

Have your cat examined by a veterinarian. Your vet should check for all diseases that can affect humans. If your cat is healthy, it can’t pass anything on to your baby. While you’re talking with your vet, ask about other things that you should do before the baby comes. He or she can help you prepare for the safe arrival of your new child.

Buy netting for the new baby’s crib. This will keep kitty out of the crib before and after your child arrives. This will keep the cat out but still allow you to check on the baby.

Let the cat explore the rest of the baby’s room. Kitty will want to investigate every change, from the new arrangement and furniture to the smells caused by new paint. Let him check things out to satisfy his natural curiosity.

Here’s what you should do after the new baby comes home.

Let your cat sniff the new human in the house. Kitty will be curious: don’t try to chase him off. If you do, he’ll just sneak into the baby’s room when you aren’t looking. Instead, let him explore to his tiny heart’s content while you watch. He’ll be satisfied soon enough.

When your baby’s sleeping, you can shut the nursery door and use baby monitors to stay tuned in. You can enjoy the baby’s naptime without worrying about the cat or the baby.

When the baby takes a nap in another part of the house – say, in his carrier in the living room – don’t freak out if the kitty shows up to take a nap too. If the cat’s had enough time to adjust to the new family member, he probably just wants to take a nap – not kill your baby out of jealousy.

Don’t forget that kitty needs attention too! Your cat might be insulted, or even jealous, if the new baby gets all the love. This is important even after kitty has accepted and welcomed the child.

Paying attention to both baby and kitty will eliminate potential problems and give them both the chance to live and learn together. And if you keep your cat, you’ll get some great pictures or videos of kitty-and-baby playtime.



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While many people love the enthusiasm of a puppy that tries to jump in their arms, this habit is not so cute when that little puppy grows into a large and powerful dog. It is best to nip this problem in the bud, before it becomes ingrained.

Many dog owners inadvertently reward this unwanted behavior by petting and cooing over the puppy when it jumps up to greet them. While there is certainly a strong temptation to reward this behavior, it is important to avoid that temptation and instead react with a strong “no”. It may take a few times for the dog to understand that this behavior is unwelcome, especially if it has been allowed to continue previously, but most dogs will understand rather quickly.

At the same time the firm “no” is given, the owner of the dog should take the dog’s paws and place them firmly on the ground, repeating the procedure if the dog attempts to jump up again. The keys to successful training the dog to avoid this unwanted behavior are consistency and firmness. It is important for every member of the family to understand the importance of this training and to avoid reinforcing this bad behavior. Training the various members of the family, as well as visitors and guests, can be as daunting a task as training the dog itself.



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As a trainer in New York City, I am constantly getting calls from clients to help them solve their dog's aggression toward other dogs while out walking. Since the city is heavily populated and the sidewalks are pretty small, it can be very dangerous to have a dog go ballistic when they see other dogs on their daily walks. However, pick any day to observe a neighborhood with lots of dogs and you'll notice, on more than one occasion, outbursts of seismic proportions. And yet, many (not all) of these dogs when they are taken off leash are perfectly fine around other dogs...how can that be?!?!?

It's actually quite simple. Most dogs that develop what we'll refer to as "leash aggression" have been taught inadvertently by their owners to act that way. When a dog pulls away from their handler during the walk, the handler usually pulls in the opposite direction causing the leash to be tight. Walking this way doesn't teach the dog to THINK about his/her walk or his/her handler, it just makes the dog work harder at pulling. Now, throw in the site of another dog.

In a dog's early stages of life, they want to pull towards other dogs as soon as they see one...there probably aren't any ill intentions at this point. But every time the dog pulls harder to get somewhere he wants to go, the owner pulls back with equal or more pressure. This builds frustration in a dog and after doing this over and over, the dog starts to associate other dogs with a hard pull on the leash. Of course owners start to anticipate this and start to tighten up on the leash at the sight of other dogs just to keep the dog in control. What they don't know is that the slightest movement they make while holding that leash is sending communication signals to their dog, so with such a pronounced movement it sends an even bolder message (albeit, the wrong message).

This is where we teach loose-leash walking. It's not the cure for aggression, but it certainly does alleviate a lot of problems. Once we teach the dog how to walk next to us on a loose leash, and teach them to pay attention to US (the handler), the site of another dog won't be such a trigger for the dog any more. I don't necessarily want to ignore all dogs while out walking since it's important to keep a dog socialized, but I don't want a dog to think the site of another dog is his/her cue to pull. Instead, I like to put the greeting of another dog on cue by teaching "SAY HELLO". This gives the dog permission to go to the other dog and check them out. The handler must remember when the dog is going to approach another dog, they should keep the leash loose offering no stress or tension. Many are amazed at the difference it makes in their dogs when they practice this loose leash walking. It's simple, not easy so if you do need help with this, try to contact a canine professional in your area www.dogpro.org

Originally, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever has his beginnings in the American colonies, specifically the Bay area, soon after the Revolutionary War. The original dogs of this area were most likely a type of spaniel or duck hunting dogs that were used to help put food on the table. The descendents of these dogs were probably crossed with another type of dog that came over from England on a vessel bound for fishing.

In fact, it is thought that the descendents of the original duck hunting dogs or spaniels were crossed with Newfoundlands that were rescued form the fishing vessel, the Canton. One of the dogs has been described as red in coloring and the other black. However, it is important to note that these Newfoundland dogs were probably much smaller and somewhat different in appearance than the ones that exist today.

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is known for his ability to retrieve waterfowl from cold waters. In fact, he is capable of breaking through sheets of ice to do so. He is an excellent swimmer and his feet are designed for this purpose with special webbing between the toes that assist the dog in moving him through the water.

He needs lots of exercise to maintain his health. In fact, daily walks are probably best, especially if they are long. Additionally, games and swimming adventures can be used in place of walks occasionally to keep him healthy and content.

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is wary of strangers, choosing to remain aloof from them. He is very protective of his family and home, displaying extremely affectionate behavior. This breed is very playful and friendly and makes a nice family pet. He is capable of remaining calm while indoors, although he thoroughly enjoys his swimming and retrieving escapades. By nature, he is independent and resilient.

He is a protective dog and will defend his home, family, and their possessions. He does have a tendency to show an aggressive side to other dogs with which he is unfamiliar. This means that it is important to either have some skill handling dogs before you acquire a Chesapeake Bay Retriever or to provide at least some basic training for him.

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a medium size. The adult dog usually weighs between 29-36 kg or 65-80 lbs. Bitches usually weigh between 25-32 kg or 55-70 lbs. The typical height of the adult male falls between 58-66 cm or 23-26 inches. The height of bitches usually falls between 53-61 cm or 21-24 inches.

Their coloring of their coat is brown. The coat is specially designed in that it includes an oiliness that protects the dog and keeps him relatively dry while he is out and about in the water. Additionally, the overcoat is thick, wavy, and short, while the undercoat is extremely thick and wooly. The thickness aids in keeping him warm, especially in frigid or very cold weather.

The coat of a Chesapeake Bay Retriever needs little grooming and usually a weekly brushing is more than sufficient. Washing this breed is rarely necessary. Indeed, washing his coat might cause more problems than desired.

His coat ranges in coloring from various shades of brown, including sedge, deadgrass, or brown. Solid coloring is preferred on this breed, especially for showing. However, a spot of white on the dog’s toes, chest, belly, or back of his feet is more than acceptable.

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever has a round and broadly shaped head with strong jaws that are large and strong enough to carry birds from the wild. His shoulders, neck, and back are very strongly muscled and powerful.

The eyes of this breed are large and, typically, amber or yellowish in color. His tail is usually straight with a bit of feathering to it. In some cases, it may have the appearance of slightly curving in one direction. Moreover, his tail is thick at the base where it meets the body.

Health issues that may affect the Chesapeake Bay Retriever include gastric torsion and hip dysplasia. Eye problems and hypothyroidism can occur, but are much less common. Typically, however, this breed is extremely hardy and healthy. The average lifespan of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is between ten and twelve years.



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If you want your dog to respect you and obey your commands, you have to respect your dog. Persistence is imperative in dog and puppy training, as is repetition. Here are 30 tips that will help you train your dog or puppy and assure he is obedient the first time he hears a command each and every time. This will promote bonding between you and your new best friend.

1. Never ignore your dog or puppy’s good behavior. Pat, praise and give a treat.

2. Never reward unacceptable behavior.

3. Never punish good behavior.

4. Follow through on every command you give. Don’t let your dog ignore you or you will lose all control of the situation.

5. Never call your dog to you in order to punish him.

6. Never give a command that you’re not prepared to enforce.

7. Never punish your dog for behavior that is out of his control or that is caused by an illness, such as vomiting or defecating.

8. Always interrupt your dog or puppy if her behavior is unacceptable. Example: digging or chewing on a slipper.

9. Always provide food, water, shelter and other basic needs to ensure your dog is well behaved.

10. Be sure your dog feels safe and secure and that he is safe and secure. It’s your responsibility and will promote good behavior.

11. Make sure your dog is well exercised. He should be walked at least twice a day and have regular off-leash exercise regimes. This promotes good behavior. Bored dogs will get into trouble.

12. Each time you and your dog or puppy plays or interacts, you are shaping his character. Always be sure your actions are positive.

13. Assure that your dog or puppy learns how to socialize with humans and other dogs. Teach him how to act around other animals such as cats.

14. Remember, your dog looks at you as the leader of his pack. Act appropriately.

15. Follow through with all commands that you give your dog. If he doesn’t get it the first time, try again. Repetitive actions are a large part of dog and puppy training.

16. Use repetition constantly. Drill your dog or puppy on appropriate behavior again and again and… well, you get the idea. This gives your dog or puppy good canine skills.

17. Always correct inappropriate behavior with sharp, short commands, using your dog’s name before each.

18. Be sure your dog responds immediately to your commands. It could save his life.

19. Be certain you have control over your dog at all times.

20. Never strike or hit your dog for any reason. Physical abuse promotes fear and fear promotes aggression.

21. Food or treats should never control a command. These are given to reinforce good behavior.

22. Give rewards to encourage appropriate canine behavior. When you dog is successful in following your instructions, give him a small bit of cheese or a bit of apple.

23. Be sure that training sessions are never interrupted. Each session should have a specific goal. For instance one session might be on leash training; another might be on coming when called.

24. Work with your dog until you get an immediate response each time your speak the dog’s name

25. Each command you give should be preceded by your dog’s name. Example: Laddy, sit, Laddy, down, Laddy, come. This teaches your dog or puppy that you are speaking to him and avoids confusion.

26. Always be aware of your dog’s actions and behavior.

27. Be aware of your behavior. Your actions affect those of your dog.

28. Dogs or puppies that are left alone for much of the day should be crate trained to promote a friendly and safe atmosphere.

29. Discourage mouthing in puppies. This can lead to biting in older dogs and that spells trouble for both you and your dog.

30. When you’re training your dog, you’re essentially teaching him self control. Don’t attempt to train your dog if you lack self control. Instead, take him to a professional trainer.

These tips, if followed, will give you the basis to work with your dog in order to get a positive response from him that will ensure your commands are followed in a prompt and reasonable manner every time your speak your dog’s name.



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