Amigo___kelley_small
this is a featured post by a Dogtime blogger

 

There is no reason to tolerate being pulled by your dog when you walk them on leash.  More importantly you DO NOT need to choke or pinch/prong collar your dog.  For ethical and health reasons I despise these collars.  Pinch/prong collars look downright frightening, but they actually do less damage to your dog's trachea than the traditional choke-chain collar. Both are dreadfully medieval in comparison to the many wonderful, non-aversive (no pain) halters.

 

FOR STARTERS, LET'S LOOK AT WHY DOGS PULL.

1. Dogs pull because they would like to get to things faster than we walk.

2. Dogs pull because when they are interested in sniffing, seeing, or doing something, pulling us over to it generally works.

3. Dogs pull because we tell them, "Pull.  Pull.  Pull!"  

That's right the very equipment we put on our dogs is making them pull!  

Flat collars and back-hooking harnesses put pressure on two areas of a dog, the neck and chest, which physically prompt a dog to pull.  A dog's body is simply not designed to ease-back into pressure to gain relief.  If pulled back by the neck or chest a dog WILL attempt to fight the pressure by pulling forward.  The name for this is oppositional reflex.  It exists and it is innate in all dogs; you do not need to teach a dog to pull, they come hard-wired to do this all on their own.

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ARE WE REALLY TEACHING THE COMMAND HEEL?

HEEL is a position that dogs in obedience will hold while moving with their handler.  Dogs traditionally HEEL on the left and are expected to keep their nose in line with the pant seam.  For the average dog owner, HEEL is ridiculous and unneeded obedience. They just need a dog that doesn't pull when walked on leash and a dog who will demonstrate some patience at doors, crosswalks, and on stairs.

Pinch/prong and choke collars are designed to deliver sharp, jerking corrections each time a dog pulls.  I am against scaring and hurting dogs during the training process; it is unnecessary and cruel.  Furthermore, neither of these collars teaches the dog what the handler wants them to do; they only are used when the dog gets it wrong. Getting HEEL right simply means the torture ends (you stop jerky for a while).  

Imagine if you had to learn a new skill (playing a clarinet) and every time you were wrong I slapped you, not hard, not enough to REALLY hurt you, just enough so that you knew you'd gotten it wrong.  Would you come back for more lessons?  What about when you played a note correctly...  Would you really be elated to have done well, or just relieved that you didn't get slapped that time?  

Unfortunately this is what many dogs must endure when walking on leash.  This is a sad at best, tragic for some.  For many dogs, one walk a day is all they get. Imagine A WALK riddled with corrections you endure because it happens during the single most exciting 20-minutes of your day.

THERE ARE BETTER CHOICES

Hope comes in many forms.  Head Halters are fantastic for controlling jumpers, lungers, and pullers. 

Front-Clipping Harnesses work WITH a dog's anatomy and physiology to humanely prevent pulling.

The other options are old, cruel, and need to be used forever anyway.  Any person who got their dog to walk nicely with a choke or prong can't take off the device and get the same results.  The devices below have the same defect--take it off and the dog will pull.  I urge you, if you are going to use something for the life of your dog,  choose a piece of equipment that does NO HARM!

1.  The Gentle Leader Head-Collar

2.  The Halti

3.  The Sense-ible Harness

4.  The Easy-Walk Harness

5.  The Canny Collar

6.  The Dream Walker

 

Anonymous
November 30, 2008, 9:14 pm
Hi, Thank you for these useful references. Which of these do you prefer and why? I have a new small dog (11 lb. poodle/terrier mix) and he pulls. He also has some tracheal damage from an earlier owner, apparently. What would you recommend for a small, light puller? Lyn Adelstein, www.dogmamma.com/blog
Amigo___kelley_small
December 4, 2008, 10:08 am
San Francisco, CA
Dear Dogmamma, For a small dog with no aggression (ankle biting, barking & lunging @ dogs) the Easy-walk Harness is easiest to find in pet supply stores and tends to be harder for little dogs to slip out of. The one drawback is that dogs tend to step over the leash, but it is easy to teach them to lift their paw to "fix-it."
Anonymous
December 21, 2008, 10:44 pm
I definitely agree that the no pull harnesses are great tools, but don't agree with using head halters or haltis. Though many dogs can become accustomed to them, I have yet to see a dog that enjoys wearing one. Almost every dog I've seen wearing one looks miserable and has the body language and posture of a dog who is having a very bad experience. Though I agree that prong collars look terrible, and that training should be taught with the least aversive methods at all times, a prong collar can offer a dog clear communication during training that no other tool can. And it should NEVER be used harshly or with a lot of force. Just a gentle tug on the collar and lots of praise help communicate to certain very high energy dogs that you want their attention. It shouldn't be used, and doesn't need to be used on dogs with low to medium energy and drive. To read more about the reasons to avoid head halters read Suzanne Clothier's article here: http://flyingdogpress.com/headhalters.html And to read about a prong collar's benefits, read her article here: http://flyingdogpress.com/prong.html And just so everyone knows, Suzanne Clothier is one of the most enlightened dog trainers around. Just wanted to share another perspective:)
Anonymous
December 26, 2008, 2:43 pm
I can't believe that Gentle Leaders continue to be promoted as a solution to pulling. I bought one for my golden retriever and my husky, and they continue to pull, despite the sometimes extreme discomfort they must be experiencing. I call them Not-so Gentle leaders, and consider them a waste of money. If it actually works for your dog, great, but the dog must not have been a real problem puller in the first place.
Amigo___kelley_small
February 5, 2009, 11:24 am
San Francisco, CA
If your dog was uncomfortable you fitted the Gentle Leader incorrectly. That is probably also why it did not work for your dogs.
Anonymous
March 7, 2009, 4:44 am
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Anonymous
March 19, 2009, 2:43 am
Interesting article...definitely agree with the premises on which you make your judgements. We have two Swissies, high spirited and loving, very inquisitive "pullers" on walks when they come upon other dogs. Also have an issue with one of them jumping occassionally, when greeting new people. Which lead you you suggest for them...each about 100 lbs? Thanks from Belgium! Mimi
Anonymous
June 30, 2009, 10:59 am
Last October, we brought home our first family dog, a female Siberian husky mix who was barely weaned. (That just shows how ignorant about dogs we were.) My parents both had dogs around them constantly growing up, but my sisters and I were rarely around them. Well, when the pup was around 2 1/2 months old, we started walking her around our neighborhood. When she would pull, we thought that she just wanted to run, so we would all sprint fifty yards or so before walking again. Well, Skylar, our pup, learned quickly, and soon the walks became nightmares. We turned to yanking her leash every time she started pulling, but would still give in and run a minute later. It just spirraled down to where we tried every technique we could with our flat buckled collar. A neighbor gave us a choke chain, but it was too large for us to use, but the idea was tempting. I'm glad to say that we never gave in to the idea. As soon as Skylar was old enough, we enrolled in Petsmart pupy classes. Yes, we learned some things, Skylar had a chance to play with other puppies, but it didn't solve the pulling. I was almost brainwashed into thinking that SKylar could not be walking anywhere in front of my legs. Every time she would go too far in front, we'd stop and wait before moving on. That was a waste of time, didn't help, anc we were obviously doing something wrong. Skylar's walks literally could be described by this sentence for the first four months of her life with us, "For many dogs, one walk a day is all they get. Imagine A WALK riddled with corrections you endure because it happens during the single most exciting 20-minutes of your day." When I read this in the article, it was as if a door opened and I could finally see what was actually going on for Skylar. I feel horrible that we got a pup before really learning how to train them properly, but SKylar now (somehow and for some reason) walks very nicely when we keep a good pace going. I'm satisfied with how she behaves now.
Amigo___kelley_small
June 30, 2009, 5:37 pm
San Francisco, CA
Dear Skylar-Savvy I'm so glad that never gave in to using a choke-collar and that now you understand WHY it would have been a bad idea. Thank you so much for sharing your stories and "ah-ha!" moment.
Anonymous
August 7, 2009, 10:10 am
If every day your dog's 20-minute walk is 'riddled with corrections' then you don't know how to properly DO corrections. Don't blame the collar or the technique of a quick jerk, blame the handler. If your first correction doesn't convince your dog to follow you then all you're doing is convincing the dog it need Not follow you, that all it has to do is put up with your tedious leash pulls and it can continue going where it wants. The dog thus trains the inept handler to follow it. It was nice to read the comment above that pointed out the stop-and-wait-for-the-dog-to-stop-pulling method is a total crock. When your dog wants to go after another dog and you just stop and wait you're just showing off how little you know about dogs to have let yourself get to that point. Bottom line is the choice of collar makes no difference in the long run. Get your dog to respect you as its leader and it will happily walk beside you in a relaxed manner, but fail to get its respect and no choice of collar is going to magically fix your problem.

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