1.  Crate Training Your Puppy is the fastest way to have a completely house-trained pup.

Taking a puppy out for frequent potty breaks and rewarding the puppy for appropriate elimination is only 1/2 the battle.  Crates teach puppies how to hold their bladder until they are outside the "den" and in the correct place.

2.  Crate Training keeps your puppy safe.  

Puppies can get into anything in a second.  Sometimes it is just annoying when they chew things, but sometimes it is really, really dangerous.  Wires, small ingestible items (I found a green thumb tack in puppy poop once), and certain foods can be dangerous for puppies.

3.  Crate training teaches puppies how to settle down and stay in one spot for a reasonable amount of time.  

If they never practice "chilling out" in one location when they are young, they are unlikely to do it later. Of corse they are young so they will need help settling down.  Chews, kongs, and other food puzzles are excellent items to give to your pup in a crate. 

OTHER THOUGHTS

Puppies can generally hold their bladders for only short periods of time.  

A general rule of thumb is:  1 hr for every month of age.  A 2-month old puppy will need to be let out of the crate for a potty-break somewhere between 1.5 - 2 hrs.

Do not expect your pup to hold it when they are running around.  

A free-roaming pup might pee every 10-30minutes.  Puppies will generally hold their bladder if they are in a small, confined space (your crate).  At about 10-12 weeks I find that most pups can make it through the night without needing a potty-break, but this does not mean that they can "hold it" or be crated for that long during the day.

If your pup has just peed and pooped then spend time with them in the house.  

Supervise them carefully and re-direct them onto their toys if they start to chew on anything inappropriate.  After about 30-minutes your 8-10 week old pup will probably be "feeling the urge."  At this point you can take them out again or crate them for 1hr. so that they have a chance to practice "holding it" until they are taken to the potty spot again.

Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

This is an email question from a DogTime Blog reader.  It is about a Labrador named Lucy who suddenly became aggressive to her owner during training classes.  

The owner stated that Lucy does well with heel, sit & down stay, leave-it unless there is a distraction such as a ball.  "Lucy...  ignores the other toy distractions and only fixates on the balls.   Naturally, she struggles with maintaining her focus on me and my commands during this exercise, but we do have moments of success.  She will leave it, but still maintains a fixated focus and trembles with excitement."  

But Trouble is brewing...

In the email Lucy's owner reported:  "This week in training Lucy was so agitated during this exercise that she snapped at me 3 times when I corrected her and snapped at other dogs in class.  It is like the training, though having some positive affect, is actually bringing out the worse in my dog."

Lucy's owner is alarmed because, "In her two years, Lucy has never, ever snapped at anyone or any other dog during play or on walks.  I have expressed this concern with the trainer, and her feeling is that this behavior was just in there waiting to come out.  I am just not sure about that explanation and thought I would share my story with someone else."

I asked Marianne to share more with me about how she is teaching Lucy to LEAVE-IT.

Marianne reported:  "We are using a standard slip chain choke collar.  I snap and release the collar to correct.  On the snap, I say "uh uh" (hard to spell that!), then give the command.  For example, to have her ignore a ball or toy, I tell her to "leave it.  If she goes for it, I snap and release the collar, say "uh, uh" and repeat "leave it".

"When she reacts correctly, I give verbal praise in a softer, higher tone of voice, such as "good leave it" or "good heel".  Frequently, during our training, I stroke her and give her positive verbal feedback...no treats until the end of class."

There are several problems with the way that Marianne is being instructed to teach her dog.  I will summarize my concerns and the errors in the training below.  

However, I want to be VERY CLEAR about TWO THINGS.

1. Marianne did nothing wrong.  She enrolled her dog training class with someone whom she was told was an expert.  Dog training is still an unregulated field.  Many of us, myself included are looking forward to the day when all trainers will need to be certified and/or licensed.  As it is now, anyone can call themselves a trainer.  There are a few Certifications Programs in the U.S.

2. The following is NOT MY OPINION.  Training is a SCIENCE.  This means that there are rules.  While I have my own personal standards for "humane training" I am not at this moment referring to HOW you get the job done.  I am instead referring to HOW ANIMALS LEARN.  A good trainer should have a solid basis in understanding Operant & Classical Conditioning regardless of whether they give out cookies, collar corrections, or both.  Without these fundamentals skills they are not prepared to train a dog.  Would you go to a doctor that you overheard saying: "Veins, Arteries, whatever; they both do blood stuff!"  I didn't think so.

So What Is Going On With Lucy?  Is she turning aggressive?

For starters, Lucy's aggression was a trained response.  It was unintentional, but it was taught.  Specifically Lucy was taught to HATE seeing Tennis balls in class.  Lucy was being asked to perform a task that she could not do, and because she was not given any guidance on the correct response (look away from the ball) her training looked like this.

Tennis Balls Appear In Class -------> Lucy is subjected to a barrage of jerks, snaps and chokes.

Punishment is a crude tool and has the potential for causing aggression.  In this case, Lucy began to associate the tennis ball distraction with pain.  All animals like to avoid pain and at some point will either choose to fight back or flee.  As Lucy was on-leash fleeing was not an option.

An even more astonishing is that Lucy was never shown WHAT TO DO.  When I want a dog to perform a Leave-it, I like to focus on what that looks like when the dogs gets it right (look away, sit, look at handler).  There are countless ways to get something wrong, and generally only a few correct responses.  Focussing on the correct response is not just nicer for the dog, but gives faster and eliminates the side-effects (ruined relationship, fearful dog, aggression) of aversive punishments.

What I would have done to train Lucy.

Bounce a Distraction-ball until Lucy notices the ball.

Have Lucy's owner give the Command (say, "Leave-it") the moment Lucy notices the distraction-ball.

Stop bouncing the Distraction-ball (kindergarten level) & Give Lucy a moment to respond on her own, by looking away.

Help Lucy get it right a few times (look away from the ball) by having the handler produce a Hint (squeaky tennis ball).

Praise Lucy at the exact moment that she looks away from the original distraction-ball (even if she is just listening to the hint).

Reward Lucy with something she really, really wanted A BALL!

Repeat this until Lucy looks away from the original Distraction-ball on her own BEFORE the Hint & reward Lucy with both balls and end the lesson.  Review later and continue to raise the expectations until the hint is no longer needed and the reward is expected to be random.

Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

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G is for Go!

It is critical that you tell your dog when they are released from duty & free to do what they want.

I really suggest that you use a special Release Word, like "Go," "Free" or "Done!" so that your dog clearly understands when they are no longer required to Sit, Stay, or  be in their Bed.  "Ok" is a poor, release-word choice  because it is so often and casually thrown about in conversation.  Pick a clear word that you rarely use if you want to avoid mistakes.

Dogs love to put together puzzles, especially ones that they think have meaning to them.  

BUT... being clever sometimes gets them in trouble!

Here is an example:

When I leave the house and my Aussie-dog is usually expecting to come with me --He usually is.

When he is invited out the door, he always does a Sit-Stay on the front porch.  

I rarely ask for this, he knows it is expected and beats me to asking nearly every time.  Clever, right?

In other situations he is also proficient at Sit & Stay --He can perform them perfectly in the hardest of distractions.  

But he started breaking his Stay (go before being released) in the mornings on the porch.  

What happened?

I used to hit the car-alarm button on my way down the steps.

Then, open the back of the car for my Aussie.  

I would call him, "Load-up!"

While he loaded himself in the crate, I would load my bags and ever-present mug of coffee.  

Finally I would get him settled in the back, shut the tailgate, go around to the driver's side and we would be off.

NAUGHTY, or CLEVER?

Clever!  Absolutely, clever.  He started chaining the events together.  

Bip-Bip...        Predicted...        Click-Woosh...        Predicted...        "Load-up!"

It took awhile, but eventually my dog learned the sound of the new alarm un-locking the doors and the sound of the tail-gate opening.  

BEFORE I could call him, he would be screaming down the steps and jumping in the back.  

What happened is that the EVENTS over-shadowed (they were bigger and more noticeable) than my words "Load-up."

It became pointless for my dog to listen for a "release word" because he could PREDICT what was going to happen.

I like when he does this on the porch -he predicts that I am going to ask him to sit, so he just does it.  

However, I did not want him predicting a release before I checked that the coast was clear -what to do?

The solution.

I mix up the routine a lot more now.  Sometimes I call him BEFORE the alarm, sometimes after.  Sometimes I load my bags first, sometimes after.  Sometimes I have him heel to the car and sometimes I come get him.  Sometimes I open doors I don't need to, just to test him.

BUT I ALWAYS, ALWAYS say, "Done!" (his release from the stay) before I call him.  That way he knows that until he hears "DONE!" he needs to STAY!.  The word is now more important than ever because I made it THE MOST IMPORTANT CLUE.

Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

Hi Kelley,

I am interested in your ideas and teaches learning about your knowledge on training tips for dogs. I have german shepherd solid black and he is now 5 mos. old. I have a very big problem on him; he eats his feces whenever he urg's his butt he turned around, smell it and grab!! ew!. What i always did is i keep on eye with him whenever he had a heavy play after sometime when turned around by itself then it will be. When he started to smell it i will immediately shouted to him "NO" then he leave and play again. Please help, what should i do? because when i am not around he still eat his feces.

Jo-ann G. Neri

Philippines

Dear Jo-ann,

I know that Poop Eating (Coprophagia) is a disgusting behavior, but it is unlikely to MAKE your dog sick, so at least you can let that worry go.  It will be easier for you and your dog if you remain calm during training -even if he relapses.   The causes of Coprophagia are not fully understood.  However, veterinarians, behaviorists and trainers generally agree that it is a behavioral problem.   On the other side of the coin, there are a handful illnesses that can cause coprophagia (poop eating), but they generally present with more symptoms, including diarrhea.  To be on the safe-side, take your dog to the vet, especially if your dog has diarrhea and or has not been to the vet for vaccinations.

Once you know your dog is healthy, the following training plan should help.  

1. Know that STRESS is the enemy.  Your dog is very young and he may still be nervous, or stressed out about going to the bathroom.  Stress is the cause of many undesirable canine behaviors.  Believe it or not, there is a lot that can stress a 5-month old a puppy.  They are learning to hold their bladder and bowels, as opposed to just going whenever they feel like it.  They are also still in the process of learning when and where they may go to the bathroom.  I know your shepherd is getting big, but he is still a baby.  Potty-training a pup can be frustrating, but avoid punishing mistakes.  Instead tighten up on management and forgive mistakes.

2. Do NOT let GOOD BEHAVIOR go unnoticed.  Reward your dog every time he goes to the bathroom in the appropriate place.  As soon as your dog has finished PEEING or POOPING, use your best happy voice to praise him.  Then feed him a tasty treat.  Toss a second treat away from the poop to distract your dog while you remove the poop with a scoop or bag.  If you have already been doing this, continue and make sure that you do it for BOTH pees and poops.  I would skip shouting "No!" this could cause more stress.  Just wiggle the dog treat and praise your dog, so that his attention is on you and he leaves the poop alone.  

3.  CLEAN UP!  Always join your dog on potty walks so that you can reward your dog and scoop the poop immediately.

4. INCREASE EXERCISE & MENTAL STIMULATION.  Make sure that your dog is getting plenty of vigorous exercise each day.  A 5-month old Shepherd could probably use at least two 1-hour play sessions each day.  This means running, fetching, hiking, playing with dogs.  More is always better.  And, when you leave your dog alone, make sure that your dog has plenty of things to CHEW.  Bones and Kongs are best.

5. Try adding a supplement to your dog's food so that the poop will be unappealing to your dog.  There are several products, listed below, but I have also heard various recommendations on adding enzymes to your dog's food.  The theory is that if poop-eating is caused by under-digestion (eat the poop to give a second go at getting all the nutrients), then the enzymes help the food become more digestible.  

At this point, regardless of the CAUSE, there is also a BAD HABIT.  I recommend trying the supplements IN ADDITION to doing the behavior modification work.  If you are only going to do one, try the behavior stuff first (its free), then buy a supplement if there is no change in behavior after 3-weeks.

• Forbid (TM)(R)
  
• Deter (TM)(R)
  
• Papaya, Fig or Pinneaple (These food contain enzymes that break down amino acids).  
  
• Meat Tenderizer (from a grocery store) contains enzymes that break down protein.

Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

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Elberta, AL

FEBRUARY 4, 2009, 11:27 AM

The motivational issue.

The management issue.

A possible health concern.

My major suggestions would be:

Create a BACK-UP PLAN.  

Do this until the dog spits out the item as soon as you toss the treats.

DO NOT touch the item or try to take it if your dog is still holding it, or standing over it.

Continue to work DROP with the tug toy, then try DROP with a sock that you are holding.

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Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson