EVEN A LOUD-MOUTHED HOUND CAN LEARN TO HUSH!

But... When facing fierce competition (instinct, drive, or breeding) you need the right tool for the job.
Dear Colleen,
The reason your "QUIET" command is not working outside is because (in its current state) it is not the right tool for the job.
Here is an analogy:
When hanging a new picture of my dog, I might take a shortcut. I'd take off my shoe and pound the nail into the wall using the heel. This works great! However, I am clearly NOT using the appropriate tool Now imagine you asked me to build a house, and that I set about pounding nails with my clog -stupid I agree, but I'm making a point. If I then came to you and told you that the house could not be built because I couldn't get the nails through the 2-by-4's you would likely point out that the "hammer" I was using was not really a hammer. If I was like many of my clients I would then argue, "No it works, I've done it lots, but these wood boards are being stubborn!" I don't fault clients that argue when I try to tell them that the command they think they have taught, really means nothing to their dog. Sometimes it really does look like our dogs are stubborn, but the truth is they just don't understand. This is a "tool" problem, NOT a dog problem.
I believe you. I am sure that your QUIET-command is working inside, just like my clog works on small nails and sheetrock. However, just because it works in some situations, does not prove that it means to your dog what you think it means. In fact, because it is NOT working outside at all we have pretty good proof that this is the case. It does NOT mean what you think it means. Confusing?
For you, QUIET means: Stop Barking.
But what you've taught your dog is: QUIET means I am going to make a really loud, scary noise.
This startles your dog, giving you the result you want -he stops barking. However, he has not learned to BE QUIET. Learning only happens when a behavior is expected to have a specific consequence because of a previous reward history. Here is a scientific fact. Behaviors that are reinforced (rewarded) go up in frequency. I am guessing you have NOT rewarded him with any tangible, valuable thing when he does shut up. This would mean that AFTER shaking the can, at the moment that your dog stops barking, you must praise him like mad and then give him a huge, wonderful treat.
Your Training looks like this:
"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt)
Quiet = Loud Noise.
The loud noise is either, simply a distraction that gets your dog's attention, thereby interrupting the barking. Or, the loud noise is aversive to your dog. Aversive-actions make behavior go down in frequency, but your dog still does not know what QUIET means. He just knows that QUIET is the clue that something aweful is about to happen next, so he stops barking to buckle for the storm of crazy sounds. Either way all you have done is classically conditioned your dog that QUIET predicts the inevitable loud noise.
What you need is:
"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt) ----> "GOOD-BOY" (marks success) ----> REWARD (reinforces behavior)
In this equation the noise is a startle/distraction that makes a certain behavior happen (still and quiet dog). Now you have an opportunity to TEACH your dog that the Praise & Treat come after QUIET & after they STOP barking. You need to re-teach this to your dog INSIDE, Then you can apply it outside. When your dog is outside his hunting motivation out-weighs his concern about the scary, loud noise. Your dog is just more motivated to bay and bark (instinct and drive contribute) than he is concerned with a scary noises when he is in hunting mode. Incidentally this could be in his genes too; hunting dogs that startle to loud noises, like guns, when on the hunt make for poor hunting dogs. For now start calling your dog a LOT when outside and praise and treat him. Do this BEFORE he is in HUNT-mode AND practice QUIET (with the above improvements) inside.






