5 steps to a healthy dog or puppy
 
Showing 4 posts about dog choking
(see also: dog health)
Amigo___kelley_small
this is a featured post by a Dogtime blogger

 

Everyday I play the same game with my Houndy-mix Eddie.  I give him a rawhide and he buries it in the yard.  He spends a few good hours being paranoid about it -rushing to the back garden at the slightest sound; leaping to his feet if the other dogs go outside; and finally not-so-cleverly giving away the secret location.  When its time to collect the bone I move around the yard and watch Eddie's face. I can tell by the paranoid look in his eye when I am getting warm... getting warm... RED-HOT!  Then, I collect the rawhide and store it for the next day.

 

Img_0429_thumb Today's "Secret" Location

Why do dogs bury things?

There appears to be no answer.  Don't get me wrong, there is a good deal of conjecture and lots of opinions, but no real scientific answers.  The common theories seem to be that dogs are:

 

1.  Saving snacks for later

2.  Hiding food from other hunters


Whatever the reason, some dogs are compelled to bury their stuff.  From a behavioral perspective the "WHY" is only one part of the mystery.  The "HOW" is equally as interesting.  The burying of bones (and other stuff) is a Fixed-Action-Pattern.  This means that all dogs follow the same basic recipe and that they don't need to learn the ropes from any other dog -it comes pre-installed as a complete behavior.

 

Scratch with paws...

Push with nose...

Scrape with muzzle...

Push with nose...

Scrape with muzzle...

 

There are variations for sure, but the basic building blocks are performed the same way by the tiniest lapdogs and the biggest hounds.  


So, why do dog's bury bones?  

Because their genes tell them to; because long ago dogs that buried stuff had some kind of advantage over those that didn't and they survived and produced more dogs that buried stuff.

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Amigo___kelley_small


Even A Well-Behaved Dog Is A DOG!

Dogs need to do Dog-Things.  Puppies, like children need to do everything and they have short attention spans.  

 

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A common behavior concern is chewing!  Punishing a dog for being a dog is a sure way to ruin your relationship with your new pup.  Dogs need to chew.  They should not be punished for being dogs.


Puppies and inexperienced dogs see the whole world is an unexplored chew toy.  There are endless places to find new chews and hundreds of ways to sneak a chew.  If your dog isn't getting the chew-fun she needs from her toys, your dog will find something new to chew.  

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My clients are constantly frustrated and overwhelmed when they focus all their energy on catching their dog chewing forbidden items (table legs, tissue, clothes, remote controls, etc...)  Make your life easier; make your puppies day.  Put most of your energy into creating chew options, not just limiting them.  Make toys and chew puzzles fun and exciting for your dog.  


Then watch your dog!  I spend countless hours just watching my dogs enjoy their chew-time.  Their chewing pleasure is a site to behold.  You too can learn to marvel at their canine abilities to chew, nibble, rip and dissect.  

 

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Just pick the items they chew on for them and make them worth their while so they won't want to waste time experimenting for better options.  Then take some time to appreciate what they liked most, what they were good at chewing and how they can lull themselves into a near meditative state on the perfect chew.


 

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Unless you plan on competing with your dog in obedience training, you do NOT need a formal HEEL.

 

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HEEL -A position in obedience training where the dog holds his/her position at the left leg on the handler with the dogs nose roughly at the same plane as the handlers outside pant seam.  This position is maintained by the dog regardless of if or how the handler moves (forward, backward, turning, stopping).

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I am amazed by the number of clients who seem to feel that they MUST forcefully hold their dog on a tight, short leash while walking.  This is NOT needed.

 

If fact, it tends to cause problems for the handler and the dog.  A tight leash can actually cause a dog to behave aggressively.  

 

It is always better to walk a dog on a loose leash.  Training the dog to keep the leash loose is the first and most important step towards enjoying a walk with your dog.

 


TEACHING LOOSE-LEASH WALKING  -kindergarden level

 

1.  Choose a collar or harness that does not pull on a dog's neck or back.  

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Most flat-collars are good for keeping tags on your dog, but they are not good for walking dogs on leash.  

Pinch and Prong-collars are designed to hurt the dog for making mistakes (pulling), but hurting the dog can have serious side-effects such as increased aggression.  There are many reasons that these collars should never be used, but the best reason is that you can accomplish the same goal faster and more effectively without them.  

Back-clipping harnesses are a great way to reduce pressure on a dogs neck and throat, but they help a dog pull and are useless for teaching a dog to walk nicely on leash.  

 

****There are two great options for helping your dog walk nicely (no pulling on leash).  Front-clipping harnesses are becoming very popular and dogs tend to adjust to them quickly.  These are fantastic walking harnesses and they do not hurt the dog.  Another option is to use a head-collar.  

 

For more on these devices, CLICK HERE.

 

2.  Set time aside for training.  

Hold your dog's leash in your right hand.  If your dog is on your left this will mean that the leash crosses in front of your body -this is OK.

Hold some tasty treats in your left hand near your dogs nose.

Keep your dog interested in the treats, but do not let your dog eat them.

If your dog jumps for the treats or tries to nibble your hand.  Pull your hand away and put it behind your back.  

If your dog has all 4 paws on the ground and is walking nicely next to you, PRAISE your dog THEN give them one of the treats from your hand.

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Elberta, AL

 

FEBRUARY 4, 2009, 11:27 AM

I love your advice and use it all the time with our 7 month old belgian malinois. The removal without anger works great EXCEPT when he grabs a sock, piece of paper, paper towel or clothes and runs. I don't chase him, he'd think that is fun, my problem is I can't just ignore it so when I approach from the side calmly he doesn't run but he has a death grip and won't give it up even for treats or his fav toy. Any ideas would really be appreciated. He does have lots of various toys, gets lots of exercise and traing and is very smart. Thanks in advance. Trainer in training, Lisa

Dear Trainer-In-Training,
This is a great question, thanks for bringing it up.  From what you have described, you have made some great choices.
  • You are NOT chasing your dog.  I agree, he would think that is fun.
  • You are approaching him casually and TRYING TO TRADE TREATS for the ITEM.
  • You have supplied your dog with HIS OWN TOYS.

The motivational issue.

The stolen Item TRUMPS (are better than) even the BEST toy.
The stolen Item is better than the TREATS you have tried.
The stolen is more fun (it was hunted & caught) than TOYS.

The management issue.

Tighten way up on shutting doors to bathrooms, bedrooms, or laundry rooms. 
Pick-up and remove any items that are not expendable (if they are around, you are willing to loose them).

A possible health concern.

If your dog has ever tried to consume the stolen item, it could lead to intestinal blockage or surgery.  
Dogs who excel at passively guarding (no growling, biting, snapping) are usually prone to try maintaining possession by engulfing.  
>>>>If this is a concern, please read about MANAGEMENT OPTIONS FOR ENGULFERS.


My major suggestions would be:

TIGHTEN UP on MANAGEMENT.  For the next 2-weeks your dog will need NO ACCESS to preferential items (the ones that have been stolen in the past).
TEACH your dog THE GAME of TUG.  Follow the instructions and really focus on teaching DROP.
>>>>Read more here on PLAYING TUG WITH YOUR DOG.


Create a BACK-UP PLAN.  

  1. Have some really amazing treats (steak comes to mind).  
  2. Set your dog up.  Deliberately leave an old-expendable sock in a steal-location, or drop it "by accident."
  3. Say, "TRADE YOU!"  
  4. Then go to the fridge (yep walk away from your dog) and get the goodies.  
  5. Without saying anything more, toss (stay as far away from your dog as you can) the yummy-steak treats AND WALK AWAY.
  6. If your dog appears WITHOUT the ITEM... Praise your dog like mad and give MORE TREATS.
  7. Tether, crate, or confine your dog and then go recover the item.

Do this until the dog spits out the item as soon as you toss the treats.

DO NOT touch the item or try to take it if your dog is still holding it, or standing over it.

Continue to work DROP with the tug toy, then try DROP with a sock that you are holding.


 

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