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Showing 13 posts about choosing a shelter dog
(see also: dog adoption)
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Can Old Dogs Learn New Tricks?

Old Man Jagger Pants

 

I am often asked, "Is it too late to train my dog?"  

 

99.9% of the time the answer is "NO, It is never too late to work on training!"  

 

While I am only too happy to make exceptions for dogs who are physically limited (blindness, deafness, incontinence, etc...) I am generally NOT inclined to excuse bad behavior on the basis of age.  

 

 

This is not to say that old HABITS won't be more difficult to change.

But, for the most part: Training a dog, is training a dog.  

 

 

There are 3 basic parts.

1) Establishing a GOAL.

2) Breaking your goal into SMALL STEPS that your dog can achieve.

3) Providing encouragement, support and REINFORCING SUCCESS.

 

 

However, it can be difficult to focus on training new behaviors when you are busy dealing with the results of older, more annoying behaviors.  

 

A common mistake is to put energy into the wrong end of the behavior equation.  My clients are often too focused on "the best way to punish their dogs bad behavior."  In their zest for finding the perfect punisher (squirt, pinch, roll, choke, pin, rub, shock, squeeze) the miss the point completely.  

I read that I should ...

Somebody told me to ...

I heard that dogs need ...

I was thinking I would try ...

My neighbor used a ...

 

Focusing on "what to do when your dog messes up" is a terrible plan!  Imagine if airline safety focussed 90% of their energy on what to do when the planes crash.  

 

This is not to say that I don't punish bad behavior.  The only way to reduce any behavior is to punish it, but punishments are tricky to do well.  Most dog owners dole out punishments that are late or too harsh.  Or, they don't even punish the dog they just nag it or say something and follow that with no consequences.  

 

When punishments are done badly they ruin relationships and dogs.  If you want to successfully teach a dog to DO something BETTER, you must REWARD the things they are doing RIGHT.  Sometimes your dog will need help getting there.

 

Goals help you form a reasonable plan.

Try picturing "Your Perfectly Behaved Dog."

What is she doing?


Here is example:

 

When my family is eating I would like my dog to lie on her bed quietly.  This is a GOAL!  

"I don't want my dog to beg." is NOT a goal, it is an unreasonable request for an animal that evolved as a scavenger.

 

When guests come over, I want my dog to sit in the hallway while I answer the door.  This is ALSO A GOAL.  

"I'm sick of my dog jumping on people." is NOT a goal, it is a complaint.

 


 

In short, your older dog CAN learn new tricks, but you might have to spend some extra time helping them get things right.  Remember just KNOWING better is not enough.  Your older dog will have a long history of doing things their way.  Be patient, set reasonable goals, help them get it right and MOST IMPORTANTLY  --REWARD, REWARD, REWARD.  In fact, even if you feel like you did most of the work, you MUST still reward your dog.  This will give them incentive to try it your way again.

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1.  Crate Training Your Puppy is the fastest way to have a completely house-trained pup.

Taking a puppy out for frequent potty breaks and rewarding the puppy for appropriate elimination is only 1/2 the battle.  Crates teach puppies how to hold their bladder until they are outside the "den" and in the correct place.


2.  Crate Training keeps your puppy safe.  

Puppies can get into anything in a second.  Sometimes it is just annoying when they chew things, but sometimes it is really, really dangerous.  Wires, small ingestible items (I found a green thumb tack in puppy poop once), and certain foods can be dangerous for puppies.


3.  Crate training teaches puppies how to settle down and stay in one spot for a reasonable amount of time.  

If they never practice "chilling out" in one location when they are young, they are unlikely to do it later. Of corse they are young so they will need help settling down.  Chews, kongs, and other food puzzles are excellent items to give to your pup in a crate. 

 


OTHER THOUGHTS

 


 


Puppies can generally hold their bladders for only short periods of time.  

A general rule of thumb is:  1 hr for every month of age.  A 2-month old puppy will need to be let out of the crate for a potty-break somewhere between 1.5 - 2 hrs.


Do not expect your pup to hold it when they are running around.  

A free-roaming pup might pee every 10-30minutes.  Puppies will generally hold their bladder if they are in a small, confined space (your crate).  At about 10-12 weeks I find that most pups can make it through the night without needing a potty-break, but this does not mean that they can "hold it" or be crated for that long during the day.


If your pup has just peed and pooped then spend time with them in the house.  

Supervise them carefully and re-direct them onto their toys if they start to chew on anything inappropriate.  After about 30-minutes your 8-10 week old pup will probably be "feeling the urge."  At this point you can take them out again or crate them for 1hr. so that they have a chance to practice "holding it" until they are taken to the potty spot again.

 

 


 


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This article is for those who have already read these postings:

Are off-leash parks and fenced dog parks safe for your small dog?

What is Predatory Drift?

Should dogs of different sizes be allowed to play together?


Have I seen Predatory Drift?

Many people witness Predatory Drift without knowing what they have seen; frequently it is mislabeled as a routine dog fight.  So, what might Predatory Drift look like?  Here are some scenarios.  

The scenarios below are made up to illustrate what can happen.  They are based on incidents that I have witnessed or heard about from colleagues.  I have tried very hard to be descriptive, but not graphic.  If you have witnessed or lost a dog to Predatory Drift you may not want to read.  My intent is not to shock or upset, but to give the reader the opportunity to grasp an understanding of a phenomenon that poses a real risk to small dogs.  


Several medium and large dogs playing in an open area -all the dogs are well behaved and playing appropriately.  The owners and guardians are interacting with the dogs and monitoring the play.  Nearby several small dogs are playing they are tiny but wrestling loudly and roughly.  All the dogs are having fun. 

Suddenly the small dogs are fighting and one of the little dogs (not even in the fight, but scared) starts screaming and running to her owner. The large dogs, startled by the commotion, stop playing.  Suddenly two of the large dogs are running very fast, directly for the small dog that is screaming.  The small dog is the treated as if it was a bunny.

This can happen with a puppy or any small dog.


In another scenario the small dog and the large dog are playing together.  They chase, wrestle and play very nicely for about 15 minutes.  Suddenly during chase the small dog looks scared and starts running quickly in one direction and does not turn to bow and return chase.  As the small dog continues running it looks more and more panicked and the larger dog looks more and more serious.  The game is no longer a game -the instinct to catch small prey and kill it has been triggered.

Not all scenarios are this slow to build, a large dog can grab and shake any small dog quickly without any warning.  Dog fights can be broken-up because there is much noise and posturing and little contact.  However, when a large dog grabs a small dog like prey, it will grab it by the neck and shake it.  It can take as little as one shake to break a neck.


Finally a couple stops at a corner of a grassy park to let their small dog play.  The small dog, while rabbit-sized is genetically a predator and has little instincts for prey-animal freeze (play possum) or flight (squirrely escape).  In another corner of the park a large dog catches sight of the small dog bouncing and prancing in the grass.  Unlike dogfights, which are loud and proceeded by warning barks and growls, incidents of Predatory Drift are silent and swift.  The small dog has no more chance than a rabbit caught by a coyote or wolf.

 

If you have not read the articles above, please read them now.

 

 

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Today the world witnessed what many would call a "Dream Come True." Barack Obama took the Inaugural Oath and became the 44th President of The United States Of America.

 

For two young girls, another dream looms on the horizon.  Dog lovers everywhere are rabidly devouring any, and all news of the First Dog.  Fans, supporters and critics all have opinions, advice and stories to share.


For anyone considering a dog, finding and selecting an appropriate match for the family and home is paramount.  The Obamas seem to be taking their time, waiting for the right dog and the right time.  A good choice.


Once found, the pup needs to be welcomed into the home and family.  For many families, bringing home a new canine companion marks the beginning of many challenges.  As with all things, raising and training a well-mannered pup will have "setbacks and false starts." 


Success takes time, commitment, consistency and hard work.  Hope is needed here too.  Many first-time dog parents feel a paralyzing hopeless as they face any number of unexpected challenges.  Perhaps it will serve them well to remember the words of President Obama. 

 


 

Could there be such truer words?

I wish that I could, so directly and so convincingly,

share such wisdom with all those who have puppies and dogs in training.

 

 

 

 

 

If we can't acknowledge what we face, then we will never find the courage, strength and commitment we needed to overcome.  No doubt, there are bigger challenges in life than how to raise and train a new dog.  However, do not underestimate the stresses of a new canine companion. 

 

Training a new pup can feel like an insurmountable task.   Trainers should be leaders and must not forget to tell all their clients that they are not alone in their frustrations, fears and concerns.  Pup parents and doggie adopters need to hear that the challenges they face are no less enormous than they feel, but that when taken in turn these seemingly insurmountable tasks are smaller and more manageable that they look from afar. 


And yes, everyone with a new dog or puppy needs a good trainer; someone who can to lead them in relocating hope when it has been chewed up, peed on and buried deep in the yard.  Sometimes a good start is just acknowledging that there is a serious matter at hand and that everyone is going to need to dig in and commit to working hard.  


The solution is always out there, but it may not come easily or freely.  In life there are no easy fixes, no short-cuts and no magic potions.  This applies to training dogs, too.

 

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Amigo___kelley_small
this is a featured post by a Dogtime blogger

This question came as a comment from the following post.

DECEMBER 27, 2008, 8:57 AM

My rescue dog is a large German Shepherd surrendered to a shelter by her owner in California. She is a good dog and smart but has never been trained. She had a computer name only so does not know her new name. I want her to come when I call her. She has never had treats. She takes them then drops them. I take her and my other rescue dog on walks on a leash but can not trust either to come back if they were loose. Any ideas. Thanks.


Dear GS Rescuer,
It sounds like you have rather skittish, perhaps shy or fearful GS.  Many rescued dogs are UNDER-SOCIALIZED.  This means that they were not exposed to much during puppyhood and regard everything as "new" and therefore potentially scary.  In particular puppies, especially those kept sheltered during the critical time of  8-16 weeks, often become shy or fearful adult dogs.  My clients often assume that a severely "shut-down" dog was abused.  This may or may not be the case, please remember that inadequate exposure of a young puppy to the world is a form of abuse
Fearfulness in adult dogs is a concern to veterinarians and trainers because it can lead to aggression.  Fear is defined by an animal avoiding new things, fleeing from new things, or attempting to make new things go away (barking, lunging, growling, snapping).  Which of these methods a dog chooses to do first depends on the animal, previous experiences, and the reaction.  One sign of fear is anorexia (extreme fear may cause an animal to spit out food, or act uninterested).  Another sign of fear is a dog who grabs/takes treats awkwardly or with sloppy jaws

For your rescue GS I would recommend the following:

1.  Make sure you have outstanding treats.
It sounds as if your dog is globally fearful.  This means that she is stressed out and afraid just being outside (maybe she was kept in a yard or garage as a pup).  You have the delightful challenge of making her think that all new places are terrific.  Because you are attempting to make your new dog LOVE places, these places will need to predict wonderful things.  I recommend boiled chicken, roast beef, or cheese.  The point is, don't go cheap!  Give great rewards and only give these great rewards outside.
2.  Try tossing the treats to your new dog.
Some dogs have been taught to anticipate a punishment for taking food from the hand.  See if tossing it on the ground in front of your dog makes a difference.  Also try taking just your new dog on a few walks until she feels comfortable with you and the route and can take treats.
3.  Have your dog drag a really long line that you can step on to get her back.
Or, if your dog truly gets along with the other dogs better than any people, try leashing your new dog to a dog with great re-call.  Always supervise these interactions!!!  When you call your older dog, also use your new dog's name.  Offer her a treat each time they both get back, then release her to "Go!" again, whether she takes the treat or not. Give it time.
4.  Most Importantly...
Go to as many NEW PLACES as you can.  Pick a quiet spot and with your rescued dog leashed (A NON-AVERSIVE COLLAR PLEASE), place several tasty treats on the ground around her.  Then, just wait.  Do not encourage her--just read a book, magazine, or listen to some music.  If after 20 minutes she doesn't eat, don't worry.  Pick up the food and try a new spot the next day (or even the same spot).  Repeat until she eats the treats as soon as you place them down.
You can choose to skip a meal or to feed a light meal before you head out to a training spot, but it is not necessary.  Your dog needs to:
Go to new places ----> Have good things happen (treats) ----> Have NOTHING BAD happen ----> Leave and return to safety!  
This needs to be repeated until your dog believes that this will always be the way things are.
GOOD LUCK!

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