1.  Crate Training Your Puppy is the fastest way to have a completely house-trained pup.

Taking a puppy out for frequent potty breaks and rewarding the puppy for appropriate elimination is only 1/2 the battle.  Crates teach puppies how to hold their bladder until they are outside the "den" and in the correct place.

2.  Crate Training keeps your puppy safe.  

Puppies can get into anything in a second.  Sometimes it is just annoying when they chew things, but sometimes it is really, really dangerous.  Wires, small ingestible items (I found a green thumb tack in puppy poop once), and certain foods can be dangerous for puppies.

3.  Crate training teaches puppies how to settle down and stay in one spot for a reasonable amount of time.  

If they never practice "chilling out" in one location when they are young, they are unlikely to do it later. Of corse they are young so they will need help settling down.  Chews, kongs, and other food puzzles are excellent items to give to your pup in a crate. 

OTHER THOUGHTS

Puppies can generally hold their bladders for only short periods of time.  

A general rule of thumb is:  1 hr for every month of age.  A 2-month old puppy will need to be let out of the crate for a potty-break somewhere between 1.5 - 2 hrs.

Do not expect your pup to hold it when they are running around.  

A free-roaming pup might pee every 10-30minutes.  Puppies will generally hold their bladder if they are in a small, confined space (your crate).  At about 10-12 weeks I find that most pups can make it through the night without needing a potty-break, but this does not mean that they can "hold it" or be crated for that long during the day.

If your pup has just peed and pooped then spend time with them in the house.  

Supervise them carefully and re-direct them onto their toys if they start to chew on anything inappropriate.  After about 30-minutes your 8-10 week old pup will probably be "feeling the urge."  At this point you can take them out again or crate them for 1hr. so that they have a chance to practice "holding it" until they are taken to the potty spot again.

Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

Now that you understand WHY your puppy is barking...

You can TEACH YOUR PUPPY TO BE ALONE!

If you have never left your puppy alone it is important to do everything that you can to set them up for success.

Puppies should have an area that is safe and can be gated-off. If you have a jumper, try stacking two gates. I prefer this to shutting a door. Door need to be opened to see what is happening, and they can be scratched. If you aren't sure... start by stacking two gates so that any jumping attempts will fail.

This area should be easy-to-clean, in case your pup has an accident. Tile and linoleum floor are best. Cement is porous and will absorb odors unless protected with a sealant. The puppy confinement area should be safe. Remove any items of value and anything your pup might chew or make a mess with such as plants, books, baskets, clothing, cleaning items etc...

This area should have a crate. The door can be left open and a comfortable bed can be inside the crate. There should be some water in a spill-proof bowl. You don't want to have to go back because they barked, jumped and knocked over the water. This will give your dog the idea that barking & spilling = mommy and daddy come back.

Try putting your puppy in this area when she is:

EXHAUSTED! Think a 3-hour walk or hike, a doggie-play session at the beach, an afternoon with the kids from the neighborhood.

HUNGRY! I encourage you to skip or go light on a meal or two. It won't hurt the pup if they miss a lunch meal just once.

You should be:

RESTED! Don't do this when you are tired, cranky or short on patience.

READY FOR SOME NOISE! Earphones, movie, music, home-workout.

NOT GOING ANYWHERE! Don't actually leave during or after the first time you do this.

THE PLAN FOR PUPPIES FIRST SUCCESSFUL ALONE-TIME.

1. Skip breakfast, but prepare a really tasty Kong and put it in the fridge.
   
2. Check that the confinement area is fully prepared and puppy-proofed.
   
3. Take your puppy out for a really, really long hike, play session, walk or combination of all of this.
   
4. Bring the pup back home (don't let this be a long nappy car trip (this will undo the exercise).
   
5. Take your pup to their potty area and allow them time to take care of business.
   
6. Go to the kitchen and get the Kong and a few chew items.
   
7. Put the puppy in the confinement area and give them the Kong. Secure the gate (stacking if necessary).
   
8. Walk away and out of the room -IGNORE what you hear.
   
9. Wait until the puppy is quiet for at least 10-15 minutes, then listen (without disturbing).
   

Does it sound like the pup is asleep? Eating from the Kong? Chewing? Congratulations. Now just let your pup out BEFORE they start to cry again.

Feed your pup like this everyday.  Soon they will need only normal amounts of exercise and you can start putting their regular food in the kong with less and less of the really amazing treats.

Do You Have A Training Question For Kelley? Click Here.

Today the world witnessed what many would call a "Dream Come True." Barack Obama took the Inaugural Oath and became the 44th President of The United States Of America.

For two young girls, another dream looms on the horizon.  Dog lovers everywhere are rabidly devouring any, and all news of the First Dog.  Fans, supporters and critics all have opinions, advice and stories to share.

For anyone considering a dog, finding and selecting an appropriate match for the family and home is paramount.  The Obamas seem to be taking their time, waiting for the right dog and the right time.  A good choice.

Once found, the pup needs to be welcomed into the home and family.  For many families, bringing home a new canine companion marks the beginning of many challenges.  As with all things, raising and training a well-mannered pup will have "setbacks and false starts." 

Success takes time, commitment, consistency and hard work.  Hope is needed here too.  Many first-time dog parents feel a paralyzing hopeless as they face any number of unexpected challenges.  Perhaps it will serve them well to remember the words of President Obama. 

Could there be such truer words?

I wish that I could, so directly and so convincingly,

If we can't acknowledge what we face, then we will never find the courage, strength and commitment we needed to overcome.  No doubt, there are bigger challenges in life than how to raise and train a new dog.  However, do not underestimate the stresses of a new canine companion. 

Training a new pup can feel like an insurmountable task.   Trainers should be leaders and must not forget to tell all their clients that they are not alone in their frustrations, fears and concerns.  Pup parents and doggie adopters need to hear that the challenges they face are no less enormous than they feel, but that when taken in turn these seemingly insurmountable tasks are smaller and more manageable that they look from afar. 

And yes, everyone with a new dog or puppy needs a good trainer; someone who can to lead them in relocating hope when it has been chewed up, peed on and buried deep in the yard.  Sometimes a good start is just acknowledging that there is a serious matter at hand and that everyone is going to need to dig in and commit to working hard.  

The solution is always out there, but it may not come easily or freely.  In life there are no easy fixes, no short-cuts and no magic potions.  This applies to training dogs, too.

This question came as a comment from the following post.

DECEMBER 27, 2008, 8:57 AM

My rescue dog is a large German Shepherd surrendered to a shelter by her owner in California. She is a good dog and smart but has never been trained. She had a computer name only so does not know her new name. I want her to come when I call her. She has never had treats. She takes them then drops them. I take her and my other rescue dog on walks on a leash but can not trust either to come back if they were loose. Any ideas. Thanks.

For your rescue GS I would recommend the following:

Before your puppy reaches 4-months of age they should be comfortable having food, toys, and food items (bones, kongs, bowls) taken away.  This training is most successful when started early.  Ideally the puppy’s owner’s/guardian’s will encourage a wide variety of people to participate in these exercises daily until the puppy is 6-months to 1-year of age.

Sleep-Startle:  Letting your dog sleep on the couch, bed, or chairs does not make your dog a location-guarder.  Dog's who are genetically or behaviorally prone to guarding can and will learn to guard whatever they have access to, such as their dog bed.  Preventing guarding is not possible using management only (i.e. never letting your dog on the couch).  

I am especially prone to do these exercises with dog breeds that sleep deeply and get dug-into locations.  Hounds are notorious for liking warm, snugly locations and for disliking being disturbed while sleeping.  To prevent your dog from guarding locations you will need to complete several exercises including teaching your dog to LOVE being startled awake.

• Wait until your dog is sleeping soundly.
• Toss a pillow, sock, or other soft object at your dog's body.
• As soon as it hits your dog, cheer wildly.
• While cheering begin making your way to the cookie jar.
• Give your dog (or toss a treat if they did not move).  Make sure the treat is something really, really special.  I suggest dried meat, cheese, or a very, very large tasty dog treat that is soft and stinky.
• Repeat this often until your dog practically wags his tail and charges to the cookie jar once startled awake.
• Try loud noises next.
• Try petting your dog while it sleeps.
• Never punish growling.  If your dog ever growls, stiffens, snarls, or stares at you, contact a trainer immediately.

Bowl-Approach:  Teach your dog that people, hands, and faces (especially if you have kids) that approach their bowl are a good thing!  Dogs GUARD valuable things.  All dogs are natural guarders unless they have been deliberately bred to have less guarding.  Even with careful breeding genetic variations are a natural occurrence and it would not be impossible for two non-guarding dogs to produce some puppies that have a higher propensity to guard.  Punishment a dog for guarding will VERY LIKELY make the guarding worse.  Instead, plan ahead and begin some prevention exercises when your puppy is still young.

• When your puppy is eating, approach the food bowl and drop a tasty treat into the bowl.
• Then walk away.
• Repeat 2-3 times during the same meal.
• Repeat this until your dog wags her tail as she sees you approach.  This may take 10-20 feedings.
• Make sure your puppy is giving you a loose, wiggly, wag!
• When you are confident that your puppy likes this game, change the rules.
• Approach the bowl and add nothing.
• Approach again, touch your puppy, Feed!
• Approach again, and DO NOT TOUCH your puppy, non food.
• Repeat this every time you feed your puppy, until your pup only gets excited when you pet her.
• Change the rules again.  Push your puppy's head away from the bowl, FEED!
• Approach again, but only pet your puppy's back.  No Food!
• Approach again, push and feed.

Object-exchange:  When your dog has a toy, they should be willing to let you take their toy.  Growling is OK in play, but should not be accompanied by a stiff body, hard stare or any snarling (teeth show).  One great way to teach your dog to drop an item on request is by playing tug!  In addition to playing tug, teach your dog to LOVE having objects taken away.

• When your dog has a toy or bone approach your dog with a treat or another favorite toy.
• Temp your dog with the food or the "live" ball that you have.
• As soon as your dog drops their bone or toy, praise them.
• Reward your dog with a short game of tug or with the food treat immediately.
• Repeat often.
• When your dog catches on to this game, add a command.  Drop, Leave, Out are all common names for this command.  Say the command then tempt your dog.  If they get it right, praise and reward.
• If they do not drop the toy, walk away.  Try again.

Bone/Kong Swap: Feeding a dog with a Kong is a great way to make food-time into a energy burner.  I like to stuff all of my dogs daily calories into Kongs and to feed several Kongs each day.  Kongs are a great way to keep my puppies, busy, quiet and out of trouble.  Because the Kong is a valuable toy & a food-delivery device, dogs can become possessive over theirs Kongs.  Teach your dog that when you take the Kong, it is worth it!

• While your puppy is eating her kong, take the Kong away.
• Go to your kitchen and add something extra tasty to the top of the Kong -cream cheese, chicken baby food, peanut butter...
• Return the improved Kong to your pup.

Couch-Removal:  I like to teach dogs to LOVE being grabbed by the collar.  This is especially important for a dogs safety and for good relations in the home.  I do allow my dogs on my bed, couch, and other furniture.  The only rule is that they must get off if asked and they must tolerate my pushing and pulling them around and out of my way.

• Grab your puppy's collar and lead them 1-2 steps in any direction.
• Praise your pup the entire time.
• Then give your puppy a yummy treat.
• Repeat over and over again.
• Gently nudge your puppy with your feet, praise & treat!
• Say, "Off!" then grab your pup's collar.
• Guide them gently off the couch and praise them.
• Give your dog a treat.
• Never punish your dog if they growl!
• Contact a certified trainer immediately if your puppy growls or snaps at you.