Somewhere, somehow it got into peoples heads that if you let your dog sleep on the bed, walk in front of you, eat first, or heaven-forbid taste human food that they would instantly become untrainable, power-hungry, stubborn dogs on covert mission to rule your world?
This is NOT true. Banning dogs from certain areas and/or activities is a nice way to avoid problems (guarding, begging and pulling being at the top of this list), but does not make the dog any more subordinate or the owner anymore dominant.
What do we mean by "Dominant" anyway?
When my clients tell me that there dog is dominant, I always ask, "What do you mean?" For starters there seem to be as many definitions for dominant out there as there are breeds of dogs. DOMINANT is NOT a nice neat word. It has lots of variables -depending on what books you have read, who wrote them and what they were talking about.
Here is an example. If I told you my house was painted blue, you might picture your standard color wheel, primary color blue. But, I could mean light blue, or bluish-gray, my house might even be what some people call deep turquoise. If you work as a designer or in a paint store, and you wanted to know what color blue I was talking about you might ask me for a reference # from a color-chart, show me some samples, have me pick a specific color and then mix the paint so that I got exactly what I picked (not your version of my color).
In addition to having numerous definitions, the word DOMINANT seems to be used the way my grandma used slang around my friends. It did NOT come off as intended -she did not appear younger or cooler.
When interviewing clients I am frequently told that the problem is their dog's DOMINANCE. So I inquire more.... What do you mean by that? Can you tell me more about what the dog is doing? And then its the old dictionary stumbling on itself routine:
Client: "Well he's just being dominant."
Trainer: "Really, What is he doing?"
Client: "Well he's not submissive?"
Trainer: "Hmmm... I'm not sure what you mean. What would you like him to do?"
Client: "I don't want him being dominant."
Trainer: "OK, well tell me more about a time when your dog was dominant."
Client: The other day he was on the couch."
Trainer: Do you think he was dominating the couch?"
Client: Well he wouldn't get off when I told him DOWN."
Trainer: "Oh, would you like to teach your dog an OFF-command, in addition to the command for LIE-DOWN?"
The Bottom Line
If you don't want dog hair in your bed, make your dog sleep somewhere else. If you don't care, then by all means don't worry about it! There is nothing wrong with letting your dog sleep on your bed.
If you don't want to be pulled on walks then buy a humane anti-pull harness or halter. If your dog is not pulling, then who cares where they walk, front, left, right, behind -anywhere you let them walk is fine! If they keep crossing in front of you and you find it annoying than TEACH them not to do that. They are NOT doing it to CONTROL YOU! They are doing it, because it works for them and they don't know better.
And eating first... REALLY? I don't get this one at all, my dogs eat ALL THEIR MEALS FROM KONGS! And they also get to lick plates, but I guess that since I don't want them licking the plate while I am eating I do usually finish my food first.
EVEN A LOUD-MOUTHED HOUND CAN LEARN TO HUSH!
But... When facing fierce competition (instinct, drive, or breeding) you need the right tool for the job.
Dear Colleen,
The reason your "QUIET" command is not working outside is because (in its current state) it is not the right tool for the job.
Here is an analogy:
When hanging a new picture of my dog, I might take a shortcut. I'd take off my shoe and pound the nail into the wall using the heel. This works great! However, I am clearly NOT using the appropriate tool Now imagine you asked me to build a house, and that I set about pounding nails with my clog -stupid I agree, but I'm making a point. If I then came to you and told you that the house could not be built because I couldn't get the nails through the 2-by-4's you would likely point out that the "hammer" I was using was not really a hammer. If I was like many of my clients I would then argue, "No it works, I've done it lots, but these wood boards are being stubborn!" I don't fault clients that argue when I try to tell them that the command they think they have taught, really means nothing to their dog. Sometimes it really does look like our dogs are stubborn, but the truth is they just don't understand. This is a "tool" problem, NOT a dog problem.
I believe you. I am sure that your QUIET-command is working inside, just like my clog works on small nails and sheetrock. However, just because it works in some situations, does not prove that it means to your dog what you think it means. In fact, because it is NOT working outside at all we have pretty good proof that this is the case. It does NOT mean what you think it means. Confusing?
For you, QUIET means: Stop Barking.
But what you've taught your dog is: QUIET means I am going to make a really loud, scary noise.
This startles your dog, giving you the result you want -he stops barking. However, he has not learned to BE QUIET. Learning only happens when a behavior is expected to have a specific consequence because of a previous reward history. Here is a scientific fact. Behaviors that are reinforced (rewarded) go up in frequency. I am guessing you have NOT rewarded him with any tangible, valuable thing when he does shut up. This would mean that AFTER shaking the can, at the moment that your dog stops barking, you must praise him like mad and then give him a huge, wonderful treat.
Your Training looks like this:
"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt)
Quiet = Loud Noise.
The loud noise is either, simply a distraction that gets your dog's attention, thereby interrupting the barking. Or, the loud noise is aversive to your dog. Aversive-actions make behavior go down in frequency, but your dog still does not know what QUIET means. He just knows that QUIET is the clue that something aweful is about to happen next, so he stops barking to buckle for the storm of crazy sounds. Either way all you have done is classically conditioned your dog that QUIET predicts the inevitable loud noise.
What you need is:
"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt) ----> "GOOD-BOY" (marks success) ----> REWARD (reinforces behavior)
In this equation the noise is a startle/distraction that makes a certain behavior happen (still and quiet dog). Now you have an opportunity to TEACH your dog that the Praise & Treat come after QUIET & after they STOP barking. You need to re-teach this to your dog INSIDE, Then you can apply it outside. When your dog is outside his hunting motivation out-weighs his concern about the scary, loud noise. Your dog is just more motivated to bay and bark (instinct and drive contribute) than he is concerned with a scary noises when he is in hunting mode. Incidentally this could be in his genes too; hunting dogs that startle to loud noises, like guns, when on the hunt make for poor hunting dogs. For now start calling your dog a LOT when outside and praise and treat him. Do this BEFORE he is in HUNT-mode AND practice QUIET (with the above improvements) inside.
For more on this read my post on TRAINING A DOG WITH STRONG INSTINCTS>>>> Click here.
WHAT TO DO -INSTALLING A "QUIET!" COMMAND... that your dog can understand!
Fill a container with some VERY, TASTY DOG TREATS (I recommend using dehydrated beef or chicken liver).
- When your dog barks, say "HUSH!" -You only need to say this once! You can use QUIET, but remember that already has a previously conditioned response (buckle for the storm), so I would pick a new word :)
- Then as fast as you can, find the cookie-can. Start rattling the cookie-can. This is NOT to scare your dog, but to EXCITE THEM --COOKIE-TIME!!!
- Start moving towards your dog (wherever they are barking) show them the goodies. While still shaking the jar, try to lure them away from the door, window or hallway. Lead them to a bed or dog-mat.
- Give your dog one TREAT right away.
- Grab 5-more treats, but hold onto them in your hand.
- Have your dog do some really easy "nerdy-obedience." Pick a favorite trick or do the easy stuff: sit, down -NOTHING HARD!!!!
- Give your dog a treat for each correct answer.
- Do this for 1-2 weeks.
*Try to lead your dog to the same spot each time.
When your dog beats you to the bed or dog-mat... (Or, starts booking it to the spot when you say HUSH!)
- Spill 5-10 treats on the bed or dog-mat.
- Don't make them do any "nerdy-obedience."
- Repeat this for 1-2 weeks.
- Alternate between "nerdy-obedience" if you have to lure them there or go get them & SPILL-TREATS if they beat you there.
Now for Grad School....
- If they book it to the spot when you say "HUSH!" Give them the SPILL.
- If they bark just once after you say, "HUSH!" slam the cookie jar shut and walk off in a huff (no cookies).
The good news... It is NOT Dominance!
The EVEN BETTER NEWS...
IT'S SEX!
That's RIGHT. Humping (despite the obvious implications -that it probably feels good) is S. E. X.
Sex! Sex! Sex! Sex! Did you know that dogs, like most creatures, need to have sex to reproduce?
Reproduction is just one of those things that pops out in play. Play-time is just a rehearsal stage for all of life's survival skills.
During play-time your dog will:
- Play-fight
- Play-hunt
- Play-kill
- Play-mate
For more on Humping >>>> Read my new favorite book, Oh Behave! by Jean Donaldson, author and director of The SF SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers.
This question came as a comment from the following post.
January 12, 2009
My friends dog is really "clever" as you say and keeps jumping up on the cat food table (not a small feat) to scarf away the snacks...my friend thinks this is really cute but it's becoming a little bit expensive. Do you think her dog is being clever or naughty or both?
Dear Concerned,
Your friend's dog is just being a dog. And your friend probably finds it amusing that her dog could/would work so hard to get onto the cat table for the occasional treat. This doesn't make it right -especially if her dog is eating all your cats food. For several reasons you and your friend should probably make time to discuss the problem and make a plan to re-train the dog.
For starters a small amount of cat food won't be terrible for her dog, but over time it will contribute to ill health. Cat food is generally higher in fat and protein and will likely contribute to obesity in her dog.
In this type of situation cooperation is needed. You will both need to participate in changing the feeding routine. If the cat is currently being free-fed, try switching to set feeding times. This will give you better control over your cats diet and you will ultimately have a closer watch on her food intake, and health. Plus the dog won't be able to continue a bad habit. Interrupting a bad behavior is an important step in changing habits. If a new behavior is taught, but the old behavior is simultaneously allowed to keep happening... nothing will change.
I do not recommend making the table taller or harder to reach. A clever, motivated dog will just see this as an improved obstacle course, a better puzzle, a new challenge to be overcome.
Once you have the cat on a regular feeding routine it will be easier to control the dog's behavior.
Pick a spot that the dog likes and that is far enough away form the cat, that the kitty is relaxed and can eat.
Have your friend work on training her dog to do a down-stay when you feed your cat.
Give the dog small rewards during the meal for holding the stay.
THEN give the dog one big HUGE reward at the end of the meal.*
*A clever trick is to REWARD THE DOG with ACCESS.
Command the dog to jump up on the table (with kitty's permission only). Use a food lure if the dog is shy to do this in front of you.
Once the dog is up there, she will see that the bowl is empty (make sure this is the case).
Then HAND-DELIVER a treat to your dog for doing this "cute" trick FOR YOU!
Then command the dog to get OFF the table.
If she tries again to jump up on the table, give the dog a TIME-OUT. 5-seconds on leash or in the bathroom is sufficient.
Continue this so that the dog knows that the trick only works:
A) after doing a down-stay while kitty eats
B) when you ask her to do the trick.
If you are punishing the dog, stop doing so. It isn't working (probably because the timing of the punishment -post yummy snacks consumed, is late). And, you are just teaching the dog to be more covert in his food scavenging (ie: it's OK as long as you don't get caught).
HARD-EYES vs. SOFT EYES
What do these terms mean?
The following photos show the same dog on the same couch. However, in one photo the dog is comfortable and not showing signs of aggression. In the other photo the dog is clearly uncomfortable. Trainers that are working on aggression issues often use a technique called Desensitization & Counter Conditioning . To do this effectively, the dog needs to be kept BELOW THRESHOLD. The appearance of any stiffening, in either body or eyes, is a sign that the threshold has been brushed or plowed over.
In the photo below Eddie's eyes are soft and his body is relaxed. The white of the eyes are showing evenly around the whole eye.
The following photo shows Eddie giving clear signs of discomfort with a person or thing (or the person/thing's action, movement, or proximity). In this photo the head and body are stiff, the eyes are hard (also known as whale or shark-eye). Notice the clear presence of the white crescent on the inside of the eye. Eddie is also puckering his mouth and starting to snarl (raise the lips). His threshold has been breached!
Eddie is a couch guarder. The first photo was taken only moments after I asked him to get on the couch (not his yet because he just got there). The second photo was taken after I walked away (relinquished shared possess of the couch) and then returned 10 minutes later (he had enough time to get comfortable and claim the couch as his).
The treatment for Guarding is NOT punishment. I would not want to teach Eddie that my return to the couch predicted punishment or other yucky things. This is bound to start a vicious cycle. Instead, the treatment for a guarder like Eddie is to teach him that my approach to the couch is safe (did not breach his threshold) and followed by good things. Desensitization & Counter-Conditioning should be done by a certified trainer who can advise you on management options to be followed in between training sessions.
