Can Old Dogs Learn New Tricks?

I am often asked, "Is it too late to train my dog?"  

99.9% of the time the answer is "NO, It is never too late to work on training!"  

While I am only too happy to make exceptions for dogs who are physically limited (blindness, deafness, incontinence, etc...) I am generally NOT inclined to excuse bad behavior on the basis of age.  

This is not to say that old HABITS won't be more difficult to change.

But, for the most part: Training a dog, is training a dog.  

There are 3 basic parts.

1) Establishing a GOAL.

2) Breaking your goal into SMALL STEPS that your dog can achieve.

3) Providing encouragement, support and REINFORCING SUCCESS.

However, it can be difficult to focus on training new behaviors when you are busy dealing with the results of older, more annoying behaviors.  

A common mistake is to put energy into the wrong end of the behavior equation.  My clients are often too focused on "the best way to punish their dogs bad behavior."  In their zest for finding the perfect punisher (squirt, pinch, roll, choke, pin, rub, shock, squeeze) the miss the point completely.  

I read that I should ...

Somebody told me to ...

I heard that dogs need ...

I was thinking I would try ...

My neighbor used a ...

Focusing on "what to do when your dog messes up" is a terrible plan!  Imagine if airline safety focussed 90% of their energy on what to do when the planes crash.  

This is not to say that I don't punish bad behavior.  The only way to reduce any behavior is to punish it, but punishments are tricky to do well.  Most dog owners dole out punishments that are late or too harsh.  Or, they don't even punish the dog they just nag it or say something and follow that with no consequences.  

When punishments are done badly they ruin relationships and dogs.  If you want to successfully teach a dog to DO something BETTER, you must REWARD the things they are doing RIGHT.  Sometimes your dog will need help getting there.

Goals help you form a reasonable plan.

Try picturing "Your Perfectly Behaved Dog."

What is she doing?

Here is example:

When my family is eating I would like my dog to lie on her bed quietly.  This is a GOAL!  

"I don't want my dog to beg." is NOT a goal, it is an unreasonable request for an animal that evolved as a scavenger.

When guests come over, I want my dog to sit in the hallway while I answer the door.  This is ALSO A GOAL.  

"I'm sick of my dog jumping on people." is NOT a goal, it is a complaint.

In short, your older dog CAN learn new tricks, but you might have to spend some extra time helping them get things right.  Remember just KNOWING better is not enough.  Your older dog will have a long history of doing things their way.  Be patient, set reasonable goals, help them get it right and MOST IMPORTANTLY  --REWARD, REWARD, REWARD.  In fact, even if you feel like you did most of the work, you MUST still reward your dog.  This will give them incentive to try it your way again.

OK, so rabbit ears & wigs are silly items, but the training principals that were applied in the process of teaching this dog to wear them are universal.  The steps outlined below can be used to get your dog to love and willingly participate in wearing things you want or need them to wear.  In working with my clients and their dogs I use this system frequently when I need a dog to wear muzzle or head halter.  

With puppies preparation is the key.  I like to start early when teaching a pup to tolerate booties (paw protection for later injuries to the foot) or goofy collars (like the post-surgery lampshade).  Other uses include Other uses include getting your dog comfortable with the sight and feel of a comb, toothbrush, nail trimmers, or ear cleaning pads.  Ideally you will have time to do this training.  If you are in a crunch for time, please seek suggestions for speeding along this process from a certified trainer.

1.  Start by leaving the Training Item (TI) around so that your dog can investigate the TI and learn that its presence means nothing.  This is the first step: Convincing your dog that nothing yucky will happen when the Training Item appears.  

If you have a chew-prone puppy or dog, supervise your dog when you first present the item.  DO NOT punish the dog if they attempt to chew the item.  You do not want your dog to think that the item means they get in trouble.  If they start to chew the item, gently encourage them to chew on an appropriate chew toy.  

This step will take 1-3 days.  Place the Training Item (TI) on your dogs bed, on the floor or next to you on the couch.  Leave it out for 10-15 minutes then put the TI away.  DO NOT make any attempt to get your dogs attention or put the Training Item on or near the dog.

2.  Now start playing with the item.  Bring the TI out several times each day and fiddle with parts that make noise (velcro straps, clips, jingly parts, etc...) or if the TI has a smell like toothpaste or ear cleaners, open the container so that the smell can be perceived by your dog.

DO NOT attempt to put the Training Item on or near your dog.  Remember you are still teaching them that NOTHING YUCKY WILL HAPPEN.  You are simply adding a new parameter: the movement of the items, sound of the item and you holding the item.  Also repeat this step for several days.  Some dogs will show no concern over the noise or movement, others will take a long time before they are convinced that NOTHING IS GOING TO HAPPEN.

3.  The work really begins in this next step.  Because your dog will be working too, you will need something to pay them with so that the job is fun.  

As far as paychecks go, dogs are most likely to work the hardest for toys or food.  Toys are great for dogs that love playing fetch or tug more than anything!  By this I mean that your dog will spit out a treat when looking at a ball and that will only drop a tug toy for another toy, but not for a treat.  If this is your dog, pick one toy and keep it special for the training.  Only play with that toy in training sessions.

If your dog LOVES food, or is luke-warm on toys (95% of pet dogs) FOOD IS THE IDEAL PAYCHECK for your dog.  If this is your dog, pick a special treat to use in training.  Do not give your dog this specially chosen treat unless you are training.  My dogs like cheese, chicken baby food, roast beef, french fries and meatballs BEST.  These are special training treats; they only get these treats when we are training!

4.  Preparing for the training session is important.  Start by teaching the dog that the presence of the paycheck means nothing.

I know that there is a lot of money kept at banks, but I don't get excited when I'm at the ATM because I know that the amount of cash in the building is irrelevant to me.  The amount that means something to me is what I have earned and put into my account.  Teaching this concept to your dog (about their paycheck) is important.  Your dog is already prepared to salivate and anticipate yummy stuff when they smell food in your hand or to get excited when they see the ball or tug toy.  Because this is the natural state of anticipation for your dog, you will need to undo it a bit, to help them make the connection you want.  

The connection you are hoping to achieve is:

Training Item Near Dog's Body ---------------------------------->Yippee!!!

What you are starting with is:

Training Item ------->Nothing & Food/Toy Paycheck --------->Yippee!!!

5. Making the Food/Toy Paycheck mean as little as the training item.  Because the Training Item (barring a bad previous experience) started an neutral it was quickly accepted as irrelevant.  The toy and food DO HAVE VALUE and meaning to your dog already (yum or yipee).  Therefore, we are going to start by re-teaching your dog that the paycheck is present but unavailable.

To do this, pick your paycheck (great food or fantastic toy) and prepare it.  

Get your training item (hat, booties, collar) and place it near you, but do not touch it.  

Then for 10 minutes randomly pick up the paycheck for 1-2 seconds (toy/food) let your dog see you touch (they can even sniff at it), but NOT let them get the paycheck.  

End the session and put everything away.  Yes, your dog will be confused and bummed.

Repeat this for 3-5 days until your dog is BORED with the game and wanders away or lays down -proof they know they are getting nothing.

6.  Now we are ready to teach the dog when when and how the paycheck can be earned.  At the next session, start the same way, but about a minute into the session, pick up the Training Item.  Immediately feed your dog or let your dog play with the toy.  Then continue picking up the paycheck.  Remember, no Training item, no paycheck.  Repeat this in short, frequent sessions (two to four, 5-10 minute sessions/day).

Each time you repeat this vary the number of times you fiddle with the paycheck before picking up the training item.  When your dog likes this game, slowly move the item towards the part of the body that it will be worn on.  Be sure that you know exactly what the dog has to do to earn a paycheck and don't deviate during a session.  Also, don't be afraid to stay at the same level for several sessions -until your dog is completely comfortble with the item at that level.