Clickers are not just for dog training!  

You can use clickers to train cats, rats and birds too.  There is even something called Chicken Camp where trainers learn to improve their timing and clicker training skills.  Zoos use clickers to train animals to lift lips and limbs, open mouths, bend down and perform other behaviors that make routine health checks less stressful for the animals and the keepers.  Over the years, I have come to love training with clickers.

Perhaps you've wondered, "Could my dog be clicker trained?"  

Any dog can be trained with a clicker.  If you decide to try clicker training you won't need to use the clicker forever, or even all the time.  Clickers and verbal praise can be used simultaneously to mark desired behaviors and/or variations in performance.  They are most often used by trainers to teach dogs new things.  Eventually the clicker is faded out, or shifted as new behaviors are taught.  

WHAT IS A CLICKER?

Clickers (shown above) are small, hand-held tools that make a CLICK-noise when pressed with the thumb.  Clickers are used when new behaviors are being learned or when known behaviors are being applied in new situations. Clickers MARK behaviors that are currently being rewarded.  Verbal Markers can also be used to teach behaviors, but the crisp, clean sound of a clicker is preferable when trying to mark precise moments of a dog's actions.  A clicker is like a high quality, professional camera that can take a photo showing drops of water falling from a glass.  Whereas my phone-camera might only show a fuzzy blur of water.  When used correctly, clickers make for crystal clear communication.

 A.  Standard, Box Clicker  (Cheap & clear, easy to hear sound)

B.  Karen Pryor's iClick  (Raised button is easy to push with a gloved hand)

C.  Triple Crown Clicker  (Contours to hand and is comfortable to hold)

DO I NEED SPECIAL TRAINING TO USE A CLICKER?

A clicker is a tool; it can be used correctly, used incorrectly and abused.  As with most tools, the product depends on the user.  For example, if I was given watercolors, a brush and instructions to paint a portrait of your dog, you would get a picture of a dog, but you might not be impressed.  Ask my mother, an artist, and you'd get a technically correct product with added style and artistic flair -a painting you could frame.  Hands-on instruction and coaching from someone who has trained with clickers will give you an advantage, but what you really need is practice.  The best thing to do is start using the clicker for simple behaviors.  

Stay tuned...  >>HOW WILL MY DOG KNOW WHAT THE CLICK MEANS?

Would your dog behave better if there was less STUFF?

A lot of dogs behave better when they have STUFF taken away.  It sounds silly when you put it this way, but sometimes the hardcore, science-heavy behavior lingo makes me feel nerdy.

The Facts: Removing sensory stimuli can create better behavior in dogs.  In training a desensitized version of a situation is a critical step in conditioning and/or reconditioning perceptions and responses.  Exposing a dog to gradual increments of the full picture allows the trainer to counter-condition the stimulus and change behavior.

The Question:  How do you make certain stimuli (situations, pictures, events) less of what they are?  Distance is a wonderful variable to manipulate, as it is movement and duration of exposure.  These are the typical categories that are manipulated to create tolerable situations for the dog being trained.  

The Complications:  Some experiences and some individuals just can't cope with "stuff" no matter how far away it is or how slowly it moves.  In fact whole new problems can be created for dogs who behave badly when things are far away or move oddly (too slow, too fast, to wobbly) etc..

The Solution:  For these dogs, a hood placed over the head is often remarkably helpful.  I liken the use of a Calming Cap on dogs to blinders on horses.  It doesn't entirely blind the animal, but it takes some of the overwhelming stimulous out of the picture.

Personal Testimony & Practical Uses:  I have used these caps on dogs who ride badly in cars.  Not dogs who get sick, or are fearful of car rides, but dogs that just can't seem to hold it together during the ride.  Border Collies, Kelpies and other herding dogs are at the top of the list for this.  

I also have used it for dogs who have never been on leash before, or were severely under-socialized and seem utterly overwhelmed when trying to soak in everything on walks.  Dogs really do use their nose like we use our eyes, so even with reduced eye-sight, they are getting tons of information about where they are and what is going on around them.

Final Thought... It does look a little funny.  I recommend decorating the fabric :)

There are several LEASH TRICKS that I teach all dogs.  Mostly this is to ease my own frustration; I am lazy about leashes.  I want the dog to think about and work at keeping the leash out of trouble.

These are my TOP LEASH-SKILL ANNOYANCES. 

• Stepping over the leash...
• Winding around the wrong side of a pole...
• Cutting from side to side & stalling to sniff...

I'm not unreasonable, I realize that it is normal dog behavior.  In fact, I expected that most green dogs will do these things.  This doesn't mean that you can't change their behavior.  Before you expect your dog to change their behavior, you must put some time into teaching them new behaviors.  These new behaviors will eventually replace the old behaviors.

MY FIRST & FAVORITE Leash Trick, "FIX-IT!"

I use FIX-IT in situations where dogs step over the leash.  Puppies do this a lot and get the leash stuck in their paw-pit.  Once its stuck under their leg, they tend to either stall or have a temper tantrum and chew at the leash.  This is understandable, but it can lead to a chain of attention-seeking behaviors that later become a problem.

I prefer teaching FIX-IT on my terms.  By this I mean that a start off each walk deliberately placing the leash under one paw and then practice the FIX-IT with lots of help and rewards.  Then if the leash gets stuck on the walk, we practice again.

How To Teach "FIX-IT"

WHAT YOU NEED:

• A 5-6' leather or nylon leash.

• 15-20 pieces of a yummy treat such as cheese, chicken, or soft dog treats.

• A flat surface.

• A clicker (optional)

  
  
  

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Clip a  5-6' leash on your pups FLAT BUCKLE/CLIP COLLAR.
2. Allow the leash to drag on the ground so that your pup steps over it (avoid handling your pups paws!)
3. Gently lift the leash.  Your pups paw should be relaxed and you should be able to raise and lower the paw several times.
4. If the leash gets stuck in the armpit, you are using too much tension; give your leash more slack.
5. If your puppy chews the leash, you are using too much tension; give your leash more slack.
6. If your pup does any lifting of the paw on her own, Praise (or, click) & Feed (regardless of where the leash is).
7. Continue to gentle lift and lower the leash which will raise your dogs paw.  Do this slowly.
8. Praise (click) & Feed all attempts by the pup to lift their own leg.
9. As soon as the leash is unstuck, JACKPOT* (toss 5-10 treats) to your dog.
10. Continue this for 5-10 minutes at the beginning of all walks for about 1-week.
11. You will soon notice that your pup quickly and easily raises her paw when the leash gets stuck.
12. When you are certain that your pup "knows" what he is doing, then you can say, "FIX-IT"
13. When you add the command, only Praise & Treat the dog if you use the command.  Occasionally omit the command, wait for your dog to fix the leash and then move on without Praising & Treating  --this will motivate your dog to do it faster when you say "FIX-IT."

*Jackpot your dog, even if you think it was an accident that the leash become untuck.  In the beginning your dog does not need to have intentionally done the job.

READER QUESTION

My granddog is a boxer female 26 months old. In the mornings when I try to get her to go outside she snaps and growls at me. Can a dog sleep with a muzzle on? If they can is the my best plan of attack or put her back in her cage. Sincerely KB Houston TX

Dear KB,

Of course your dog could sleep with a muzzle on, but I wouldn't recommend it.  I almost always reserve muzzles for dogs that BITE.  Snapping & growling are warning behaviors  -it is not to late to fix this problem.  Both you and your dog deserve to sleep and wake-up in harmony.  

It sounds as if your Boxer is a Bed Guarder. On the Guarding Scale (1-10) your dog is a light-weight.  She only guards the bed, after having been there all night.  Heavy-Duty Guarders will claim it as theirs (growl/snap/snarl) as soon as they lay down.

I'm not excusing the behavior, but I do understand it.  I am a deep sleeper and DO NOT like waking up.  I hate waking; I routinely abuse my alarm clock in the morning.  The best days start with someone brining me coffee in bed!  

Coffee MAKES me happy; coffee is NOT contingent upon my BEING happy :)  As you read the following keep this in mind --The coffee I get in the morning is NOT a reward for waking up in a good mood.  The coffee is a nice way to prevent me from being cranky.

By contrast, punishments for 'grumpy morning behavior' will not work.  Think about it.  If you already hate waking up to leave your warm, cozy bed your attitude will not likely improve if you get in trouble for not being a morning person.

WARNING:  

Punishments: yelling, hitting, squirting, dragging, pinning, rolling, etc WILL MAKE CERTAIN BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS WORSE.  In this case, the dog already hates leaving the bed in the morning.  She is NOT is her right mind --me before coffee (cranky!)  Punishments for cranky morning behavior will make your dog have an even bigger negative (yucky) association with waking up.

Try this instead...

1. Before you wake your dog, go to the fridge.  

2. Get something tasty (some cheese or a hotdog).  

3. Approach your dog, but stop before you are so close that she will yell at you.  

4. Then, say something in a sweat voice: "Morning Girl -Rise & Shine."  The phrase can be whatever you like saying and can say nicely. 

5. Then toss a treat, right to her.  Toss it on the bed, or even bounce it off her head.

DO NOT WORRY IF SHE BARKS OR GROWLS -Remember she is NOT a morning dog.  She doesn't mean anything by it, she's just grumpy.

6. If she eats the treat, toss another and then toss the rest on the ground.  

7. As soon as she is on the floor call her to the door and give her once last treat.

Please see the following ARTICLES for more information.

Dog Faces: Reading Body Language

Muzzles -When & How Should They Be Used?

Muzzles --Is Aggression The Only Use?

Everyday I play the same game with my Houndy-mix Eddie.  I give him a rawhide and he buries it in the yard.  He spends a few good hours being paranoid about it -rushing to the back garden at the slightest sound; leaping to his feet if the other dogs go outside; and finally not-so-cleverly giving away the secret location.  When its time to collect the bone I move around the yard and watch Eddie's face. I can tell by the paranoid look in his eye when I am getting warm... getting warm... RED-HOT!  Then, I collect the rawhide and store it for the next day.

 Today's "Secret" Location

Why do dogs bury things?

There appears to be no answer.  Don't get me wrong, there is a good deal of conjecture and lots of opinions, but no real scientific answers.  The common theories seem to be that dogs are:

1.  Saving snacks for later

2.  Hiding food from other hunters

Whatever the reason, some dogs are compelled to bury their stuff.  From a behavioral perspective the "WHY" is only one part of the mystery.  The "HOW" is equally as interesting.  The burying of bones (and other stuff) is a Fixed-Action-Pattern.  This means that all dogs follow the same basic recipe and that they don't need to learn the ropes from any other dog -it comes pre-installed as a complete behavior.

Scratch with paws...

Push with nose...

Scrape with muzzle...

Push with nose...

Scrape with muzzle...

There are variations for sure, but the basic building blocks are performed the same way by the tiniest lapdogs and the biggest hounds.  

So, why do dog's bury bones?  

Because their genes tell them to; because long ago dogs that buried stuff had some kind of advantage over those that didn't and they survived and produced more dogs that buried stuff.