Can Old Dogs Learn New Tricks?

I am often asked, "Is it too late to train my dog?"  

99.9% of the time the answer is "NO, It is never too late to work on training!"  

While I am only too happy to make exceptions for dogs who are physically limited (blindness, deafness, incontinence, etc...) I am generally NOT inclined to excuse bad behavior on the basis of age.  

This is not to say that old HABITS won't be more difficult to change.

But, for the most part: Training a dog, is training a dog.  

There are 3 basic parts.

1) Establishing a GOAL.

2) Breaking your goal into SMALL STEPS that your dog can achieve.

3) Providing encouragement, support and REINFORCING SUCCESS.

However, it can be difficult to focus on training new behaviors when you are busy dealing with the results of older, more annoying behaviors.  

A common mistake is to put energy into the wrong end of the behavior equation.  My clients are often too focused on "the best way to punish their dogs bad behavior."  In their zest for finding the perfect punisher (squirt, pinch, roll, choke, pin, rub, shock, squeeze) the miss the point completely.  

I read that I should ...

Somebody told me to ...

I heard that dogs need ...

I was thinking I would try ...

My neighbor used a ...

Focusing on "what to do when your dog messes up" is a terrible plan!  Imagine if airline safety focussed 90% of their energy on what to do when the planes crash.  

This is not to say that I don't punish bad behavior.  The only way to reduce any behavior is to punish it, but punishments are tricky to do well.  Most dog owners dole out punishments that are late or too harsh.  Or, they don't even punish the dog they just nag it or say something and follow that with no consequences.  

When punishments are done badly they ruin relationships and dogs.  If you want to successfully teach a dog to DO something BETTER, you must REWARD the things they are doing RIGHT.  Sometimes your dog will need help getting there.

Goals help you form a reasonable plan.

Try picturing "Your Perfectly Behaved Dog."

What is she doing?

Here is example:

When my family is eating I would like my dog to lie on her bed quietly.  This is a GOAL!  

"I don't want my dog to beg." is NOT a goal, it is an unreasonable request for an animal that evolved as a scavenger.

When guests come over, I want my dog to sit in the hallway while I answer the door.  This is ALSO A GOAL.  

"I'm sick of my dog jumping on people." is NOT a goal, it is a complaint.

In short, your older dog CAN learn new tricks, but you might have to spend some extra time helping them get things right.  Remember just KNOWING better is not enough.  Your older dog will have a long history of doing things their way.  Be patient, set reasonable goals, help them get it right and MOST IMPORTANTLY  --REWARD, REWARD, REWARD.  In fact, even if you feel like you did most of the work, you MUST still reward your dog.  This will give them incentive to try it your way again.

Dear Kelley,

I pray you can help me. Last year I rescued a dog, and myself + my family showered her with love. She had had a very distressing past history, this reinforced to us when she bit my Mother In Law on her third day with us. They were very serious bites and our vet said we had no option but to put her down as she had a high risk of re-offending.

We, as a family, found this incredibly difficult but had no choice. She was a beautiful 2 yr old collie and it was so heartbreaking. We recently re-homed a 6-month old German Shepherd who is a real sweetheart.

However we have just realized that our 12 yr old daughter is still traumatized by the incident with my Mother In Law (which she witnessed).

Krya jumped up to lick her and she had a panic attack. My question to you is "Is it better to put a muzzle on a dog we all love or let her move to a home where she does not have that restraint? She would get plenty of stimulation with us, walks beside a canal for 2 hrs a day, hill walking/climbing regularly with loads of love + attention. Please let me know which outcome would be better for Kyra as it is her welfare that is at the forefront of our dilemma. 

Kind regards, Linda

Facts & Summary:

1. "Kyra" is your new, 6-mo. old German Shepherd Dog.  
   
2. Your daughter, age 12, was recently witness to a severe bite inflicted by a different dog to a family member.
   
3. The dog who bit was a 3-day, newly adopted, 2-yr old Collie.
   
4. The Collie was euthanized for aggression as recommended by your vet.  
   
5. Although the new dog is friendly, she is rambunctious and untrained.
   
6. Your daughter is having panic attacks whenever the dog jumps up on her, licks her or does both.  

QUESTION:

Should you use a a muzzle on the new dog,  so that your daughter will not have to worry about being bitten.  Or, is this unfair to the dog?

First, let me say that if your daughters fear is severe, or getting worse, you may want to seek help from a mental health professional.  

It is entirely normal to be afraid of large animals with big teeth!  But it sounds as if you are describing a new change in your daughter that is drastically different because of a specific event.  

Given the bite your daughter witnessed and the events that followed, I am not surprised that your daughter is having a difficult time bonding with your new dog.

If you can't manage the access the two have to each other with gates, crates, and tie-downs while still providing excellent opportunities for mental and physical exercise for the dog, then you may want to re-home the GSD.

If you are able to find professional help for your daughter and the prognosis is good, then it might be possible to temporarily manage the situation and work through the issue.  

Having worked as a humane educator I do have some experience working with social workers and psychologists in controlled settings with dogs and children who were fearful of, or had had a traumatic experience with an aggressive dog.  It takes time to recover from a bad experience and steady, slow progress is best.

From a dog-behavior perspective, "wiggly" & "overly-friendly" are encouraging terms.  They mean that the dog is not afraid (potential fear-aggression), just untrained.  Untrained is fixable with patience and a little work.  The dog's temperament aside, the human needs to be comfortable too and wiggly/friendly can be just too much for a fearful person.  

When working with people who are afraid of dogs, I have never started with a puppy!  They are TOO-WIGGLY!  A friendly, well-trained adult dog who listens well to commands is ideal.  So, don't peg your daughters recovery on your puppy.  Consider training the puppy and getting your daughter (at her comfort level) interacting with older, well-behaved, friendly dogs.

Regarding your specific question, I would NOT recommend muzzling the dog.

I only use muzzles when the is a clear indication that a bite is likely and/or a previously known history of the dog having bitten or fought.  

If this is a concern (that the GSD may have some tendency to bite or nip) than it may be best to re-home the dog and focus on your daughter's feelings and concerns regarding dogs.  

If the dog is not currently biting or showing signs of being fearful or aggressive, then it is your daughter whom you need to turn your energy.  

Muzzling the dog will not fix your daughter's fear, but could give her a false sense of security.  

Furthermore, your 6-month old pup will miss out on the opportunity she needs to learn what (toys) she is allowed to put her mouth on and when (never), she may place (even gently) her mouth on people.

If the dog is NOT biting or puppy-nipping then by all means, please use other management devices such as crates, pens or tie-downs to prevent the dog from jumping all over your daughter.  

This is just good-sense for anyone with a rude, jumpy pup.  

Preventing the dog from practicing the bad behavior is critical to training.  

Finally, please enroll in a Reward-Based (no choke/prong collars) Training Class.  

Don't forget to include your daughter in training the dog.  The class may be overwhelming, lots of young, un-trained dogs, but your daughter could be included in the homework exercises.  

In the beginning this may mean that someone else holds the leash and controls the dog from a distance, or that your daughter gives the commands or food-rewards.

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Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

Hi Kelley,

I am interested in your ideas and teaches learning about your knowledge on training tips for dogs. I have german shepherd solid black and he is now 5 mos. old. I have a very big problem on him; he eats his feces whenever he urg's his butt he turned around, smell it and grab!! ew!. What i always did is i keep on eye with him whenever he had a heavy play after sometime when turned around by itself then it will be. When he started to smell it i will immediately shouted to him "NO" then he leave and play again. Please help, what should i do? because when i am not around he still eat his feces.

Jo-ann G. Neri

Philippines

Dear Jo-ann,

I know that Poop Eating (Coprophagia) is a disgusting behavior, but it is unlikely to MAKE your dog sick, so at least you can let that worry go.  It will be easier for you and your dog if you remain calm during training -even if he relapses.   The causes of Coprophagia are not fully understood.  However, veterinarians, behaviorists and trainers generally agree that it is a behavioral problem.   On the other side of the coin, there are a handful illnesses that can cause coprophagia (poop eating), but they generally present with more symptoms, including diarrhea.  To be on the safe-side, take your dog to the vet, especially if your dog has diarrhea and or has not been to the vet for vaccinations.

Once you know your dog is healthy, the following training plan should help.  

1. Know that STRESS is the enemy.  Your dog is very young and he may still be nervous, or stressed out about going to the bathroom.  Stress is the cause of many undesirable canine behaviors.  Believe it or not, there is a lot that can stress a 5-month old a puppy.  They are learning to hold their bladder and bowels, as opposed to just going whenever they feel like it.  They are also still in the process of learning when and where they may go to the bathroom.  I know your shepherd is getting big, but he is still a baby.  Potty-training a pup can be frustrating, but avoid punishing mistakes.  Instead tighten up on management and forgive mistakes.

2. Do NOT let GOOD BEHAVIOR go unnoticed.  Reward your dog every time he goes to the bathroom in the appropriate place.  As soon as your dog has finished PEEING or POOPING, use your best happy voice to praise him.  Then feed him a tasty treat.  Toss a second treat away from the poop to distract your dog while you remove the poop with a scoop or bag.  If you have already been doing this, continue and make sure that you do it for BOTH pees and poops.  I would skip shouting "No!" this could cause more stress.  Just wiggle the dog treat and praise your dog, so that his attention is on you and he leaves the poop alone.  

3.  CLEAN UP!  Always join your dog on potty walks so that you can reward your dog and scoop the poop immediately.

4. INCREASE EXERCISE & MENTAL STIMULATION.  Make sure that your dog is getting plenty of vigorous exercise each day.  A 5-month old Shepherd could probably use at least two 1-hour play sessions each day.  This means running, fetching, hiking, playing with dogs.  More is always better.  And, when you leave your dog alone, make sure that your dog has plenty of things to CHEW.  Bones and Kongs are best.

5. Try adding a supplement to your dog's food so that the poop will be unappealing to your dog.  There are several products, listed below, but I have also heard various recommendations on adding enzymes to your dog's food.  The theory is that if poop-eating is caused by under-digestion (eat the poop to give a second go at getting all the nutrients), then the enzymes help the food become more digestible.  

At this point, regardless of the CAUSE, there is also a BAD HABIT.  I recommend trying the supplements IN ADDITION to doing the behavior modification work.  If you are only going to do one, try the behavior stuff first (its free), then buy a supplement if there is no change in behavior after 3-weeks.

• Forbid (TM)(R)
  
• Deter (TM)(R)
  
• Papaya, Fig or Pinneaple (These food contain enzymes that break down amino acids).  
  
• Meat Tenderizer (from a grocery store) contains enzymes that break down protein.

Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

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There's almost 400 Pounds of dog in my house right now!  

This would be OK if I had two Neapolitan Mastiffs that were sleeping like rugs.

BUT, I have a 1000 sq. ft. California Cottage and, one German Shepherd under the age of 10 months, 1 Border Collie just over a year, a Hound Mix, an AussieX, a Chow/PitX and a 6mo Pittie, plus one very old, slow moving Schnauzer.

Keeping play tame, furniture standing, and knees from being blown out is NOT OPTIONAL!   ...BUT it is simple.

When a new dog is thrown into the mix they get a quick lesson on home-manners. The rules are as simple.  There are 3 obedience phrases and 2 consequences.  I NEVER yell any of these.  I never threaten (everything has a consequence).  I am always right.

Commands:

Yellow Warning Light: "__dog's name__, Cool-it."

Red Light: "Too-bad."

Green Light: "Thank You."

Consequences:  

Errors earn a dog a 10-15 second time-out in a crate, bathroom, or tied to leash.

Compliance earns the dogs Praise & Freedom, maybe a toy tossed to them, perhaps a cookie.

THE RULES:

1. Bump into Kelley, get an automatic time-out:  "Too-bad."
2. Bump into grandma (schnauzer), get an automatic time-out:  "Too-bad."
3. Bump into furniture, get an automatic time-out:  "Too-bad."
4. Get TOO LOUD, get a warning.
5. Head the warning, and become quiet, get a green light to keep playing.
6. Ignore warning, get a time-out:  "Too-bad."
7. Play with anything but a dog toy, get an automatic time-out:  "Too-bad."
8. Go in the no-dog-zone, get an automatic time-out:  "Too-bad."

BONUS:  "PLAY BREAK"