EVEN A LOUD-MOUTHED HOUND CAN LEARN TO HUSH!
But... When facing fierce competition (instinct, drive, or breeding) you need the right tool for the job.
Dear Colleen,
The reason your "QUIET" command is not working outside is because (in its current state) it is not the right tool for the job.
Here is an analogy:
When hanging a new picture of my dog, I might take a shortcut. I'd take off my shoe and pound the nail into the wall using the heel. This works great! However, I am clearly NOT using the appropriate tool Now imagine you asked me to build a house, and that I set about pounding nails with my clog -stupid I agree, but I'm making a point. If I then came to you and told you that the house could not be built because I couldn't get the nails through the 2-by-4's you would likely point out that the "hammer" I was using was not really a hammer. If I was like many of my clients I would then argue, "No it works, I've done it lots, but these wood boards are being stubborn!" I don't fault clients that argue when I try to tell them that the command they think they have taught, really means nothing to their dog. Sometimes it really does look like our dogs are stubborn, but the truth is they just don't understand. This is a "tool" problem, NOT a dog problem.
I believe you. I am sure that your QUIET-command is working inside, just like my clog works on small nails and sheetrock. However, just because it works in some situations, does not prove that it means to your dog what you think it means. In fact, because it is NOT working outside at all we have pretty good proof that this is the case. It does NOT mean what you think it means. Confusing?
For you, QUIET means: Stop Barking.
But what you've taught your dog is: QUIET means I am going to make a really loud, scary noise.
This startles your dog, giving you the result you want -he stops barking. However, he has not learned to BE QUIET. Learning only happens when a behavior is expected to have a specific consequence because of a previous reward history. Here is a scientific fact. Behaviors that are reinforced (rewarded) go up in frequency. I am guessing you have NOT rewarded him with any tangible, valuable thing when he does shut up. This would mean that AFTER shaking the can, at the moment that your dog stops barking, you must praise him like mad and then give him a huge, wonderful treat.
Your Training looks like this:
"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt)
Quiet = Loud Noise.
The loud noise is either, simply a distraction that gets your dog's attention, thereby interrupting the barking. Or, the loud noise is aversive to your dog. Aversive-actions make behavior go down in frequency, but your dog still does not know what QUIET means. He just knows that QUIET is the clue that something aweful is about to happen next, so he stops barking to buckle for the storm of crazy sounds. Either way all you have done is classically conditioned your dog that QUIET predicts the inevitable loud noise.
What you need is:
"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt) ----> "GOOD-BOY" (marks success) ----> REWARD (reinforces behavior)
In this equation the noise is a startle/distraction that makes a certain behavior happen (still and quiet dog). Now you have an opportunity to TEACH your dog that the Praise & Treat come after QUIET & after they STOP barking. You need to re-teach this to your dog INSIDE, Then you can apply it outside. When your dog is outside his hunting motivation out-weighs his concern about the scary, loud noise. Your dog is just more motivated to bay and bark (instinct and drive contribute) than he is concerned with a scary noises when he is in hunting mode. Incidentally this could be in his genes too; hunting dogs that startle to loud noises, like guns, when on the hunt make for poor hunting dogs. For now start calling your dog a LOT when outside and praise and treat him. Do this BEFORE he is in HUNT-mode AND practice QUIET (with the above improvements) inside.
For more on this read my post on TRAINING A DOG WITH STRONG INSTINCTS>>>> Click here.
WHAT TO DO -INSTALLING A "QUIET!" COMMAND... that your dog can understand!
Fill a container with some VERY, TASTY DOG TREATS (I recommend using dehydrated beef or chicken liver).
- When your dog barks, say "HUSH!" -You only need to say this once! You can use QUIET, but remember that already has a previously conditioned response (buckle for the storm), so I would pick a new word :)
- Then as fast as you can, find the cookie-can. Start rattling the cookie-can. This is NOT to scare your dog, but to EXCITE THEM --COOKIE-TIME!!!
- Start moving towards your dog (wherever they are barking) show them the goodies. While still shaking the jar, try to lure them away from the door, window or hallway. Lead them to a bed or dog-mat.
- Give your dog one TREAT right away.
- Grab 5-more treats, but hold onto them in your hand.
- Have your dog do some really easy "nerdy-obedience." Pick a favorite trick or do the easy stuff: sit, down -NOTHING HARD!!!!
- Give your dog a treat for each correct answer.
- Do this for 1-2 weeks.
*Try to lead your dog to the same spot each time.
When your dog beats you to the bed or dog-mat... (Or, starts booking it to the spot when you say HUSH!)
- Spill 5-10 treats on the bed or dog-mat.
- Don't make them do any "nerdy-obedience."
- Repeat this for 1-2 weeks.
- Alternate between "nerdy-obedience" if you have to lure them there or go get them & SPILL-TREATS if they beat you there.
Now for Grad School....
- If they book it to the spot when you say "HUSH!" Give them the SPILL.
- If they bark just once after you say, "HUSH!" slam the cookie jar shut and walk off in a huff (no cookies).
OK, so rabbit ears & wigs are silly items, but the training principals that were applied in the process of teaching this dog to wear them are universal. The steps outlined below can be used to get your dog to love and willingly participate in wearing things you want or need them to wear. In working with my clients and their dogs I use this system frequently when I need a dog to wear muzzle or head halter.
With puppies preparation is the key. I like to start early when teaching a pup to tolerate booties (paw protection for later injuries to the foot) or goofy collars (like the post-surgery lampshade). Other uses include Other uses include getting your dog comfortable with the sight and feel of a comb, toothbrush, nail trimmers, or ear cleaning pads. Ideally you will have time to do this training. If you are in a crunch for time, please seek suggestions for speeding along this process from a certified trainer.
1. Start by leaving the Training Item (TI) around so that your dog can investigate the TI and learn that its presence means nothing. This is the first step: Convincing your dog that nothing yucky will happen when the Training Item appears.
If you have a chew-prone puppy or dog, supervise your dog when you first present the item. DO NOT punish the dog if they attempt to chew the item. You do not want your dog to think that the item means they get in trouble. If they start to chew the item, gently encourage them to chew on an appropriate chew toy.
This step will take 1-3 days. Place the Training Item (TI) on your dogs bed, on the floor or next to you on the couch. Leave it out for 10-15 minutes then put the TI away. DO NOT make any attempt to get your dogs attention or put the Training Item on or near the dog.
2. Now start playing with the item. Bring the TI out several times each day and fiddle with parts that make noise (velcro straps, clips, jingly parts, etc...) or if the TI has a smell like toothpaste or ear cleaners, open the container so that the smell can be perceived by your dog.
DO NOT attempt to put the Training Item on or near your dog. Remember you are still teaching them that NOTHING YUCKY WILL HAPPEN. You are simply adding a new parameter: the movement of the items, sound of the item and you holding the item. Also repeat this step for several days. Some dogs will show no concern over the noise or movement, others will take a long time before they are convinced that NOTHING IS GOING TO HAPPEN.
3. The work really begins in this next step. Because your dog will be working too, you will need something to pay them with so that the job is fun.
As far as paychecks go, dogs are most likely to work the hardest for toys or food. Toys are great for dogs that love playing fetch or tug more than anything! By this I mean that your dog will spit out a treat when looking at a ball and that will only drop a tug toy for another toy, but not for a treat. If this is your dog, pick one toy and keep it special for the training. Only play with that toy in training sessions.
If your dog LOVES food, or is luke-warm on toys (95% of pet dogs) FOOD IS THE IDEAL PAYCHECK for your dog. If this is your dog, pick a special treat to use in training. Do not give your dog this specially chosen treat unless you are training. My dogs like cheese, chicken baby food, roast beef, french fries and meatballs BEST. These are special training treats; they only get these treats when we are training!
4. Preparing for the training session is important. Start by teaching the dog that the presence of the paycheck means nothing.
I know that there is a lot of money kept at banks, but I don't get excited when I'm at the ATM because I know that the amount of cash in the building is irrelevant to me. The amount that means something to me is what I have earned and put into my account. Teaching this concept to your dog (about their paycheck) is important. Your dog is already prepared to salivate and anticipate yummy stuff when they smell food in your hand or to get excited when they see the ball or tug toy. Because this is the natural state of anticipation for your dog, you will need to undo it a bit, to help them make the connection you want.
The connection you are hoping to achieve is:
Training Item Near Dog's Body ---------------------------------->Yippee!!!
What you are starting with is:
Training Item ------->Nothing & Food/Toy Paycheck --------->Yippee!!!
5. Making the Food/Toy Paycheck mean as little as the training item. Because the Training Item (barring a bad previous experience) started an neutral it was quickly accepted as irrelevant. The toy and food DO HAVE VALUE and meaning to your dog already (yum or yipee). Therefore, we are going to start by re-teaching your dog that the paycheck is present but unavailable.
To do this, pick your paycheck (great food or fantastic toy) and prepare it.
Get your training item (hat, booties, collar) and place it near you, but do not touch it.
Then for 10 minutes randomly pick up the paycheck for 1-2 seconds (toy/food) let your dog see you touch (they can even sniff at it), but NOT let them get the paycheck.
End the session and put everything away. Yes, your dog will be confused and bummed.
Repeat this for 3-5 days until your dog is BORED with the game and wanders away or lays down -proof they know they are getting nothing.
6. Now we are ready to teach the dog when when and how the paycheck can be earned. At the next session, start the same way, but about a minute into the session, pick up the Training Item. Immediately feed your dog or let your dog play with the toy. Then continue picking up the paycheck. Remember, no Training item, no paycheck. Repeat this in short, frequent sessions (two to four, 5-10 minute sessions/day).
Each time you repeat this vary the number of times you fiddle with the paycheck before picking up the training item. When your dog likes this game, slowly move the item towards the part of the body that it will be worn on. Be sure that you know exactly what the dog has to do to earn a paycheck and don't deviate during a session. Also, don't be afraid to stay at the same level for several sessions -until your dog is completely comfortble with the item at that level.
CHEW ON THIS... Humans used to really like barking. The evidence? We have lots of dogs (all breeds and sizes) that do it.
When people complain that a dog is "misbehaving" what they mean is that the dog is exhibiting behaviors that are inconvenient, irritating or disruptive. Very few dogs actually exhibit ABNORMAL BEHAVIORS. Barking is a good example of an annoying behavior that is normal for dogs.
Excessive barking is a common concern. Barking, whining and howling can cause problems with neighbors and embarrassment for dog owners. Desperate, guardians are ready to try anything to eliminate or reduce barking. Sadly, I am often disappointed with the advice I overhear.
Many people try to punish dogs for barking. These techniques often have mixed results and at best temporarily startle the dog into silence. In my mind punishment fails to deliver lasting solutions to excessive barking for three reasons:
1) There is an undiagnosed or unrecognized discomfort or FEAR at the root of the problem.
2) The instigation/motivation to bark outweighs the potential penalty and/or the reward for being quiet is non-existent or pitifully small.
3) Punishments are invariably inconsistent & fail to be instructive.
Lets look at each of the reasons that commonly recommended punishment/startle methods fail. Then we can have a discussion about achieving lasting results.
First comes fear. If a dog is barking because it is upset (fearful or frustrated) punishments often make the problem worse. Imagine that you are deathly afraid of butterflies. Some would say this is an irrational fear, but it would be very real to you -try talking me into loving spiders! If you were afraid of butterflies having them fly around you would be terrifying. Now image that when you wave your arms around to protect yourself, that I blast you with water, or even grab your arms and hold them down, all while yelling at you, "NO!" Even if you stopped waving your arms at butterflies... particularly when I was I was around, the FEAR would still exist and cause more problems later. Dogs who bark when they are fearful need remedial socialization (desensitization & counter-conditioning) to the fear-evoking stimulus (scary thing), not punishment. This would be a good time to contact a certified trainer or behaviorist.
Motivation is everything!!!! Most people probably KNOW BETTER than to drive when drunk, cheat, steal, lie, etc. Clearly, KNOWING is not the problem, or human society would have no problems with these problems. Behavior, more often than we would like to admit, is the result of a complicated formula including consequences, context, and wants/needs/urges. It is NOT about KNOWING. Even if "rightness" did come into play, keep in mind that for humans this is an entire realm of our being that we tout as separating us from the rest of animals. Despite all this I can still bet on hearing at least once each week, "My dog knows better than to ____________." "Big Whoop!" is what I say. Even if your dog did "know better," they clearly didn't care. Your dilemma is NOT a knowledge-based problem; it is a motivation problem.
And punishments... Lets say that every time you bowled/golfed badly I tried to either scare you into thinking I would hurt you or actually caused you physical harm. Now let's ask some questions about what you learned. Do you understand what you did wrong -think specifics? Was it your footwork I didn't like? Maybe it was the timing? No? Was it the form? Where you had your left arm? The ball you chose? This is the reality for many dogs -they cannot understand specifics about WHAT EXACTLY they did wrong. They just know they did something... If they are lucky they figure it out what behaviors are unsafe/dangerous to their well being before they are petrified of the situation or the instructor. Sometimes they just learn that doing nothing is the safest game in town.
There is a better way, check back for more postings on showing your dog what you want when you say "QUIET!"
