Can Old Dogs Learn New Tricks?
I am often asked, "Is it too late to train my dog?"
99.9% of the time the answer is "NO, It is never too late to work on training!"
While I am only too happy to make exceptions for dogs who are physically limited (blindness, deafness, incontinence, etc...) I am generally NOT inclined to excuse bad behavior on the basis of age.
This is not to say that old HABITS won't be more difficult to change.
But, for the most part: Training a dog, is training a dog.
There are 3 basic parts.
1) Establishing a GOAL.
2) Breaking your goal into SMALL STEPS that your dog can achieve.
3) Providing encouragement, support and REINFORCING SUCCESS.
However, it can be difficult to focus on training new behaviors when you are busy dealing with the results of older, more annoying behaviors.
A common mistake is to put energy into the wrong end of the behavior equation. My clients are often too focused on "the best way to punish their dogs bad behavior." In their zest for finding the perfect punisher (squirt, pinch, roll, choke, pin, rub, shock, squeeze) the miss the point completely.
I read that I should ...
Somebody told me to ...
I heard that dogs need ...
I was thinking I would try ...
My neighbor used a ...
Focusing on "what to do when your dog messes up" is a terrible plan! Imagine if airline safety focussed 90% of their energy on what to do when the planes crash.
This is not to say that I don't punish bad behavior. The only way to reduce any behavior is to punish it, but punishments are tricky to do well. Most dog owners dole out punishments that are late or too harsh. Or, they don't even punish the dog they just nag it or say something and follow that with no consequences.
When punishments are done badly they ruin relationships and dogs. If you want to successfully teach a dog to DO something BETTER, you must REWARD the things they are doing RIGHT. Sometimes your dog will need help getting there.
Goals help you form a reasonable plan.
Try picturing "Your Perfectly Behaved Dog."
What is she doing?
Here is example:
When my family is eating I would like my dog to lie on her bed quietly. This is a GOAL!
"I don't want my dog to beg." is NOT a goal, it is an unreasonable request for an animal that evolved as a scavenger.
When guests come over, I want my dog to sit in the hallway while I answer the door. This is ALSO A GOAL.
"I'm sick of my dog jumping on people." is NOT a goal, it is a complaint.
In short, your older dog CAN learn new tricks, but you might have to spend some extra time helping them get things right. Remember just KNOWING better is not enough. Your older dog will have a long history of doing things their way. Be patient, set reasonable goals, help them get it right and MOST IMPORTANTLY --REWARD, REWARD, REWARD. In fact, even if you feel like you did most of the work, you MUST still reward your dog. This will give them incentive to try it your way again.
1. Crate Training Your Puppy is the fastest way to have a completely house-trained pup.
Taking a puppy out for frequent potty breaks and rewarding the puppy for appropriate elimination is only 1/2 the battle. Crates teach puppies how to hold their bladder until they are outside the "den" and in the correct place.
2. Crate Training keeps your puppy safe.
Puppies can get into anything in a second. Sometimes it is just annoying when they chew things, but sometimes it is really, really dangerous. Wires, small ingestible items (I found a green thumb tack in puppy poop once), and certain foods can be dangerous for puppies.
3. Crate training teaches puppies how to settle down and stay in one spot for a reasonable amount of time.
If they never practice "chilling out" in one location when they are young, they are unlikely to do it later. Of corse they are young so they will need help settling down. Chews, kongs, and other food puzzles are excellent items to give to your pup in a crate.
OTHER THOUGHTS
Puppies can generally hold their bladders for only short periods of time.
A general rule of thumb is: 1 hr for every month of age. A 2-month old puppy will need to be let out of the crate for a potty-break somewhere between 1.5 - 2 hrs.
Do not expect your pup to hold it when they are running around.
A free-roaming pup might pee every 10-30minutes. Puppies will generally hold their bladder if they are in a small, confined space (your crate). At about 10-12 weeks I find that most pups can make it through the night without needing a potty-break, but this does not mean that they can "hold it" or be crated for that long during the day.
If your pup has just peed and pooped then spend time with them in the house.
Supervise them carefully and re-direct them onto their toys if they start to chew on anything inappropriate. After about 30-minutes your 8-10 week old pup will probably be "feeling the urge." At this point you can take them out again or crate them for 1hr. so that they have a chance to practice "holding it" until they are taken to the potty spot again.
Your dog is NOT being naughty...
On purpose,
To get back at you,
Or, because they are trying to dominate you!
Your dog's behavior is not malicious.
Behavior is a result of past CONSEQUENCES & current MOTIVATIONS.
Chances are they...
a) Really DON'T know better.
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They are acting on instinct (dogs bark, whine and chase things).
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They are doing what feels best to them (peeing and pooping feels better than holding it).
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They are repeating something that has worked before (checking the counter for more toast).
They are acting on instinct (dogs bark, whine and chase things).
They are doing what feels best to them (peeing and pooping feels better than holding it).
They are repeating something that has worked before (checking the counter for more toast).
b) Just don't care.
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There is no yucky consequences (peeing on rug = relief).
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The consequence is late or seems unconnected (yell at dog for chewing couch sometime while you were gone).
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The consequence is actually rewarding the behavior (pushing a dog down for jumping up = touch/attention).
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Something else is more compelling/appealing at the moment (pulling towards the next great smell is worth the choking sensation).
There is no yucky consequences (peeing on rug = relief).
The consequence is late or seems unconnected (yell at dog for chewing couch sometime while you were gone).
The consequence is actually rewarding the behavior (pushing a dog down for jumping up = touch/attention).
Something else is more compelling/appealing at the moment (pulling towards the next great smell is worth the choking sensation).
Things to think about...
Have you ever done something even though you "knew better?"
Have you ever performed poorly at something you "know how to do?"
Have you ever made a bad meal or burnt dinner?
Did you do it to "get back" at someone or as revenge, or was it just the way things went?
Did everyone notice how "in charge" you were of their food enjoyment and "feel subordinate" to you?
Have you ever missed a payment or fogotten something important?
Was it to "make a statement" about something, or prove your power?
Did you do it "on purpose" even though you "knew better" and had done it right before?
Do you know better than to call in sick when your friend is visiting?
What is your motivation?
What is the consequence?
Are you a "good" driver?
Have you ever sped?
Why, it is "wrong" isn't it?
Have you ever been "sneaky" about when/where you speed? Why?
Hi Kelley,
I am interested in your ideas and teaches learning about your knowledge on training tips for dogs. I have german shepherd solid black and he is now 5 mos. old. I have a very big problem on him; he eats his feces whenever he urg's his butt he turned around, smell it and grab!! ew!. What i always did is i keep on eye with him whenever he had a heavy play after sometime when turned around by itself then it will be. When he started to smell it i will immediately shouted to him "NO" then he leave and play again. Please help, what should i do? because when i am not around he still eat his feces.
Jo-ann G. Neri
Philippines
Dear Jo-ann,
I know that Poop Eating (Coprophagia) is a disgusting behavior, but it is unlikely to MAKE your dog sick, so at least you can let that worry go. It will be easier for you and your dog if you remain calm during training -even if he relapses. The causes of Coprophagia are not fully understood. However, veterinarians, behaviorists and trainers generally agree that it is a behavioral problem. On the other side of the coin, there are a handful illnesses that can cause coprophagia (poop eating), but they generally present with more symptoms, including diarrhea. To be on the safe-side, take your dog to the vet, especially if your dog has diarrhea and or has not been to the vet for vaccinations.
Once you know your dog is healthy, the following training plan should help.
1. Know that STRESS is the enemy. Your dog is very young and he may still be nervous, or stressed out about going to the bathroom. Stress is the cause of many undesirable canine behaviors. Believe it or not, there is a lot that can stress a 5-month old a puppy. They are learning to hold their bladder and bowels, as opposed to just going whenever they feel like it. They are also still in the process of learning when and where they may go to the bathroom. I know your shepherd is getting big, but he is still a baby. Potty-training a pup can be frustrating, but avoid punishing mistakes. Instead tighten up on management and forgive mistakes.
2. Do NOT let GOOD BEHAVIOR go unnoticed. Reward your dog every time he goes to the bathroom in the appropriate place. As soon as your dog has finished PEEING or POOPING, use your best happy voice to praise him. Then feed him a tasty treat. Toss a second treat away from the poop to distract your dog while you remove the poop with a scoop or bag. If you have already been doing this, continue and make sure that you do it for BOTH pees and poops. I would skip shouting "No!" this could cause more stress. Just wiggle the dog treat and praise your dog, so that his attention is on you and he leaves the poop alone.
3. CLEAN UP! Always join your dog on potty walks so that you can reward your dog and scoop the poop immediately.
4. INCREASE EXERCISE & MENTAL STIMULATION. Make sure that your dog is getting plenty of vigorous exercise each day. A 5-month old Shepherd could probably use at least two 1-hour play sessions each day. This means running, fetching, hiking, playing with dogs. More is always better. And, when you leave your dog alone, make sure that your dog has plenty of things to CHEW. Bones and Kongs are best.
5. Try adding a supplement to your dog's food so that the poop will be unappealing to your dog. There are several products, listed below, but I have also heard various recommendations on adding enzymes to your dog's food. The theory is that if poop-eating is caused by under-digestion (eat the poop to give a second go at getting all the nutrients), then the enzymes help the food become more digestible.
At this point, regardless of the CAUSE, there is also a BAD HABIT. I recommend trying the supplements IN ADDITION to doing the behavior modification work. If you are only going to do one, try the behavior stuff first (its free), then buy a supplement if there is no change in behavior after 3-weeks.
- Forbid (TM)(R)
- Deter (TM)(R)
- Papaya, Fig or Pinneaple (These food contain enzymes that break down amino acids).
- Meat Tenderizer (from a grocery store) contains enzymes that break down protein.
The good news... It is NOT Dominance!
The EVEN BETTER NEWS...
IT'S SEX!
That's RIGHT. Humping (despite the obvious implications -that it probably feels good) is S. E. X.
Sex! Sex! Sex! Sex! Did you know that dogs, like most creatures, need to have sex to reproduce?
Reproduction is just one of those things that pops out in play. Play-time is just a rehearsal stage for all of life's survival skills.
During play-time your dog will:
- Play-fight
- Play-hunt
- Play-kill
- Play-mate
For more on Humping >>>> Read my new favorite book, Oh Behave! by Jean Donaldson, author and director of The SF SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers.
