Everyday I play the same game with my Houndy-mix Eddie.  I give him a rawhide and he buries it in the yard.  He spends a few good hours being paranoid about it -rushing to the back garden at the slightest sound; leaping to his feet if the other dogs go outside; and finally not-so-cleverly giving away the secret location.  When its time to collect the bone I move around the yard and watch Eddie's face. I can tell by the paranoid look in his eye when I am getting warm... getting warm... RED-HOT!  Then, I collect the rawhide and store it for the next day.

 Today's "Secret" Location

Why do dogs bury things?

There appears to be no answer.  Don't get me wrong, there is a good deal of conjecture and lots of opinions, but no real scientific answers.  The common theories seem to be that dogs are:

1.  Saving snacks for later

2.  Hiding food from other hunters

Whatever the reason, some dogs are compelled to bury their stuff.  From a behavioral perspective the "WHY" is only one part of the mystery.  The "HOW" is equally as interesting.  The burying of bones (and other stuff) is a Fixed-Action-Pattern.  This means that all dogs follow the same basic recipe and that they don't need to learn the ropes from any other dog -it comes pre-installed as a complete behavior.

Scratch with paws...

Push with nose...

Scrape with muzzle...

Push with nose...

Scrape with muzzle...

There are variations for sure, but the basic building blocks are performed the same way by the tiniest lapdogs and the biggest hounds.  

So, why do dog's bury bones?  

Because their genes tell them to; because long ago dogs that buried stuff had some kind of advantage over those that didn't and they survived and produced more dogs that buried stuff.

Even A Well-Behaved Dog Is A DOG!

Dogs need to do Dog-Things.  Puppies, like children need to do everything and they have short attention spans.  

A common behavior concern is chewing!  Punishing a dog for being a dog is a sure way to ruin your relationship with your new pup.  Dogs need to chew.  They should not be punished for being dogs.

Puppies and inexperienced dogs see the whole world is an unexplored chew toy.  There are endless places to find new chews and hundreds of ways to sneak a chew.  If your dog isn't getting the chew-fun she needs from her toys, your dog will find something new to chew.  

My clients are constantly frustrated and overwhelmed when they focus all their energy on catching their dog chewing forbidden items (table legs, tissue, clothes, remote controls, etc...)  Make your life easier; make your puppies day.  Put most of your energy into creating chew options, not just limiting them.  Make toys and chew puzzles fun and exciting for your dog.  

Then watch your dog!  I spend countless hours just watching my dogs enjoy their chew-time.  Their chewing pleasure is a site to behold.  You too can learn to marvel at their canine abilities to chew, nibble, rip and dissect.  

Just pick the items they chew on for them and make them worth their while so they won't want to waste time experimenting for better options.  Then take some time to appreciate what they liked most, what they were good at chewing and how they can lull themselves into a near meditative state on the perfect chew.

G is for Go!

It is critical that you tell your dog when they are released from duty & free to do what they want.

I really suggest that you use a special Release Word, like "Go," "Free" or "Done!" so that your dog clearly understands when they are no longer required to Sit, Stay, or  be in their Bed.  "Ok" is a poor, release-word choice  because it is so often and casually thrown about in conversation.  Pick a clear word that you rarely use if you want to avoid mistakes.

Dogs love to put together puzzles, especially ones that they think have meaning to them.  

BUT... being clever sometimes gets them in trouble!

Here is an example:

When I leave the house and my Aussie-dog is usually expecting to come with me --He usually is.

When he is invited out the door, he always does a Sit-Stay on the front porch.  

I rarely ask for this, he knows it is expected and beats me to asking nearly every time.  Clever, right?

In other situations he is also proficient at Sit & Stay --He can perform them perfectly in the hardest of distractions.  

But he started breaking his Stay (go before being released) in the mornings on the porch.  

What happened?

I used to hit the car-alarm button on my way down the steps.

Then, open the back of the car for my Aussie.  

I would call him, "Load-up!"

While he loaded himself in the crate, I would load my bags and ever-present mug of coffee.  

Finally I would get him settled in the back, shut the tailgate, go around to the driver's side and we would be off.

NAUGHTY, or CLEVER?

Clever!  Absolutely, clever.  He started chaining the events together.  

Bip-Bip...        Predicted...        Click-Woosh...        Predicted...        "Load-up!"

It took awhile, but eventually my dog learned the sound of the new alarm un-locking the doors and the sound of the tail-gate opening.  

BEFORE I could call him, he would be screaming down the steps and jumping in the back.  

What happened is that the EVENTS over-shadowed (they were bigger and more noticeable) than my words "Load-up."

It became pointless for my dog to listen for a "release word" because he could PREDICT what was going to happen.

I like when he does this on the porch -he predicts that I am going to ask him to sit, so he just does it.  

However, I did not want him predicting a release before I checked that the coast was clear -what to do?

The solution.

I mix up the routine a lot more now.  Sometimes I call him BEFORE the alarm, sometimes after.  Sometimes I load my bags first, sometimes after.  Sometimes I have him heel to the car and sometimes I come get him.  Sometimes I open doors I don't need to, just to test him.

BUT I ALWAYS, ALWAYS say, "Done!" (his release from the stay) before I call him.  That way he knows that until he hears "DONE!" he needs to STAY!.  The word is now more important than ever because I made it THE MOST IMPORTANT CLUE.

Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

EVEN A LOUD-MOUTHED HOUND CAN LEARN TO HUSH!

But... When facing fierce competition (instinct, drive, or breeding) you need the right tool for the job.

Dear Colleen,

The reason your "QUIET" command is not working outside is because (in its current state) it is not the right tool for the job.  

Here is an analogy:

When hanging a new picture of my dog, I might take a shortcut.  I'd take off my shoe and pound the nail into the wall using the heel.  This works great!  However, I am clearly NOT using the appropriate tool   Now imagine you asked me to build a house, and that I set about pounding nails with my clog -stupid I agree, but I'm making a point.  If I then came to you and told you that the house could not be built because I couldn't get the nails through the 2-by-4's you would likely point out that the "hammer" I was using was not really a hammer.   If I was like many of my clients I would then argue, "No it works, I've done it lots, but these wood boards are being stubborn!"  I don't fault clients that argue when I try to tell them that the command they think they have taught, really means nothing to their dog.  Sometimes it really does look like our dogs are stubborn, but the truth is they just don't understand.  This is a "tool" problem, NOT a dog problem.

I believe you.  I am sure that your QUIET-command is working inside, just like my clog works on small nails and sheetrock.  However, just because it works in some situations, does not prove that it means to your dog what you think it means.  In fact, because it is NOT working outside at all we have pretty good proof that this is the case.  It does NOT mean what you think it means.  Confusing?

For you, QUIET means:  Stop Barking.

But what you've taught your dog is: QUIET means I am going to make a really loud, scary noise.  

This startles your dog, giving you the result you want -he stops barking.  However, he has not learned to BE QUIET.  Learning only happens when a behavior is expected to have a specific consequence because of a previous reward history.  Here is a scientific fact.  Behaviors that are reinforced (rewarded) go up in frequency.  I am guessing you have NOT rewarded him with any tangible, valuable thing when he does shut up.  This would mean that AFTER shaking the can, at the moment that your dog stops barking, you must praise him like mad and then give him a huge, wonderful treat.

Your Training looks like this:

"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt)

Quiet = Loud Noise.

The loud noise is either, simply a distraction that gets your dog's attention, thereby interrupting the barking.  Or, the loud noise is aversive to your dog.  Aversive-actions make behavior go down in frequency, but your dog still does not know what QUIET means.  He just knows that QUIET is the clue that something aweful is about to happen next, so he stops barking to buckle for the storm of crazy sounds.  Either way all you have done is classically conditioned your dog that QUIET predicts the inevitable loud noise.

What you need is:

 "QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt) ----> "GOOD-BOY" (marks success) ----> REWARD (reinforces behavior)

In this equation the noise is a startle/distraction that makes a certain behavior happen (still and quiet dog).  Now you have an opportunity to TEACH your dog that the Praise & Treat come after QUIET & after they STOP barking.  You need to re-teach this to your dog INSIDE, Then you can apply it outside.  When your dog is outside his hunting motivation out-weighs his concern about the scary, loud noise.  Your dog is just more motivated to bay and bark (instinct and drive contribute) than he is concerned with a scary noises when he is in hunting mode.  Incidentally this could be in his genes too; hunting dogs that startle to loud noises, like guns, when on the hunt make for poor hunting dogs.  For now start calling your dog a LOT when outside and praise and treat him.  Do this BEFORE he is in HUNT-mode AND practice QUIET (with the above improvements) inside.

For more on this read my post on TRAINING A DOG WITH STRONG INSTINCTS>>>>  Click here.

WHAT TO DO -INSTALLING A "QUIET!" COMMAND... that your dog can understand!

Fill a container with some VERY, TASTY DOG TREATS (I recommend using dehydrated beef or chicken liver).

1. When your dog barks, say "HUSH!"  -You only need to say this once!  You can use QUIET, but remember that already has a previously conditioned response (buckle for the storm), so I would pick a new word :)
   
2. Then as fast as you can, find the cookie-can.  Start rattling the cookie-can.  This is NOT to scare your dog, but to EXCITE THEM --COOKIE-TIME!!!
   
3. Start moving towards your dog (wherever they are barking) show them the goodies.  While still shaking the jar, try to lure them away from the door, window or hallway.  Lead them to a bed or dog-mat.
   
4. Give your dog one TREAT right away.  
   
5. Grab 5-more treats, but hold onto them in your hand.
   
6. Have your dog do some really easy "nerdy-obedience."  Pick a favorite trick or do the easy stuff:  sit, down -NOTHING HARD!!!!
   
7. Give your dog a treat for each correct answer.
   
8. Do this for 1-2 weeks.
   

*Try to lead your dog to the same spot each time.

When your dog beats you to the bed or dog-mat... (Or, starts booking it to the spot when you say HUSH!)

1. Spill 5-10 treats on the bed or dog-mat.  
   
2. Don't make them do any "nerdy-obedience."
   
3. Repeat this for 1-2 weeks.  
   
4. Alternate between "nerdy-obedience" if you have to lure them there or go get them & SPILL-TREATS if they beat you there.
   

Now for Grad School....

1. If they book it to the spot when you say "HUSH!" Give them the SPILL.  
   
2. If they bark just once after you say, "HUSH!" slam the cookie jar shut and walk off in a huff (no cookies).
   

Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

---

Dear Kelley,

I do not have an aggressive dog, but I do have a dog that is currently in the hospital because she rooted around in my coat and ate a package of gum that had Xylitol as a main ingredient... a sweetner can cause necrosis of the liver. 

 

I have considered using a muzzle on my dog to keep her from grabbing food when we are eating in the house...  Would using a muzzle be any type of solution for this type of behavior?

 

Kaitlin T.

---

Answer Below.

Do you have a question for Kelley?

  

This goofy pup is learning to LOVE his Grooming Muzzle (aka Mickey Muzzle).  It isn't even clipped -he's just licking Peanut Butter from inside and learning that sticking his nose inside is FANTASTIC!

Dear Kaitlyn,

I am so glad to hear that your pup is OK.  And yes, it is certainly possible to use a muzzle to prevent your dog from eating harmful substances or from scavenging nasty items when romping off-leash.  It sounds as if you have already planned to use a muzzle for management while you complete training.  

Please be sure that your dog is comfortable with the muzzle.  A special training processed called Desensitization & Counter-Conditioning can be used to teach a dog (or any animal) to be more comfortable with new items. Also, if your dog is wearing the muzzle for long periods of time (more than 15-20 minutes in moderate temperatures) be sure that the muzzle is light-weight and that your dog can pant and drink water.  

Mickey Muzzles (shown in the photo above) when fitted properly do not allow dogs to open their mouths.  They are NOT for use in training situations as they should not be left on the dog for any length of time -especially if unsupervised.  Sometimes Grooming Muzzles are used when dogs are taken on public transportation -in these situations the dog is supervised and should not be exposed to warm temperatures or long trips.  

A flexible polyethylene Basket Muzzle is best for long-term use.  They allow dogs to pant and drink water.  Because they tend to look "scary" I like to decorate them; Ribbons, 

non-toxic paint (nail-polish works too), and cute scarves, bows, and collars help soften the effect.  If that isn't your cup of tea, you can try ordering one that matches your dogs fur (more of a blend-in, rather than a muzzle-flamboyant style).

Here are some other points to consider.

Teach your dog some manners.  More on begging, stealing and commands for leaving items, like Drop-it.

Make sure your pup has plenty of LEGAL CHEW ITEMS!  This is super important for dogs that have hunting backgrounds like Jack Russell Terriers & Beagles, or for dogs that are master chewers like Labradors, Rottweilers, and Pit Bull Terriers.  I like Kongs stuffed with food.  In fact, my dogs haven't eaten out of bowls in years.  All their food goes into Kongs and they chew, lick, and suck their food out as if they were working on a freshly killed chunk of meat.

Get help from a Certified Dog Trainer.  Not all trainers are certified and not all trainers use humane, modern dog training methods.  For a list of certified trainers in your area try doing a search for an SPCA Certified Trainer in your area.  The SF/SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers is run by Jean Donaldson, author of many wonderful books on dog training, including my favorite -The Culture Clash.

MORE ON KONGS!!!

http://blogs.dogtime.com/secret-shopper-pet-product-reviews/2008/10/kong-what-would-we-do-without-you

http://blogs.dogtime.com/go-dog-training/2008/09/behaving-badly

http://www.sfspca.org/resources/library/for-dog-owners/abcs/kong-stuffing.pdf

http://www.kongcompany.com/worlds_best.html