READER QUESTION

My granddog is a boxer female 26 months old. In the mornings when I try to get her to go outside she snaps and growls at me. Can a dog sleep with a muzzle on? If they can is the my best plan of attack or put her back in her cage. Sincerely KB Houston TX

Dear KB,

Of course your dog could sleep with a muzzle on, but I wouldn't recommend it.  I almost always reserve muzzles for dogs that BITE.  Snapping & growling are warning behaviors  -it is not to late to fix this problem.  Both you and your dog deserve to sleep and wake-up in harmony.  

It sounds as if your Boxer is a Bed Guarder. On the Guarding Scale (1-10) your dog is a light-weight.  She only guards the bed, after having been there all night.  Heavy-Duty Guarders will claim it as theirs (growl/snap/snarl) as soon as they lay down.

I'm not excusing the behavior, but I do understand it.  I am a deep sleeper and DO NOT like waking up.  I hate waking; I routinely abuse my alarm clock in the morning.  The best days start with someone brining me coffee in bed!  

Coffee MAKES me happy; coffee is NOT contingent upon my BEING happy :)  As you read the following keep this in mind --The coffee I get in the morning is NOT a reward for waking up in a good mood.  The coffee is a nice way to prevent me from being cranky.

By contrast, punishments for 'grumpy morning behavior' will not work.  Think about it.  If you already hate waking up to leave your warm, cozy bed your attitude will not likely improve if you get in trouble for not being a morning person.

WARNING:  

Punishments: yelling, hitting, squirting, dragging, pinning, rolling, etc WILL MAKE CERTAIN BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS WORSE.  In this case, the dog already hates leaving the bed in the morning.  She is NOT is her right mind --me before coffee (cranky!)  Punishments for cranky morning behavior will make your dog have an even bigger negative (yucky) association with waking up.

Try this instead...

1. Before you wake your dog, go to the fridge.  

2. Get something tasty (some cheese or a hotdog).  

3. Approach your dog, but stop before you are so close that she will yell at you.  

4. Then, say something in a sweat voice: "Morning Girl -Rise & Shine."  The phrase can be whatever you like saying and can say nicely. 

5. Then toss a treat, right to her.  Toss it on the bed, or even bounce it off her head.

DO NOT WORRY IF SHE BARKS OR GROWLS -Remember she is NOT a morning dog.  She doesn't mean anything by it, she's just grumpy.

6. If she eats the treat, toss another and then toss the rest on the ground.  

7. As soon as she is on the floor call her to the door and give her once last treat.

Please see the following ARTICLES for more information.

Dog Faces: Reading Body Language

Muzzles -When & How Should They Be Used?

Muzzles --Is Aggression The Only Use?

How serious is it when a dog fights?

Most dog fights are minor spats -I consider them playground scuffles.  There's a lot of noise and a lot of commotion, but when the fight is interrupted, the dogs go their separate ways, shake-off the fight and resume playing as normal.  However if your dog is consistently getting in fights you should contact a certified trainer or behaviorist so that the problem can be diagnosed and a behavior modification plan can be implemented.  

The usual Cause-Of-Fight Suspects are:

1.  The dog is uninterested/uncomfortable with other dogs.  Dogs like this can appear to do fine at a park, but rarely seek out other dogs for play.  they tend to go about doing their own things (sniffing, playing with a toy, or walking by themselves or with their people).  Fights erupt when other dogs try to engage the loner-dog in play, try to sniff the unsocial dog, or inadvertently invade the sensitive dog's personal space.

2. The dog loves playing with other dogs, but gets carried away and the play tips into a fight.  This is common with rough-players like young Labradors, Boxers, Bulldogs, Staffordshire Terriers, Jack Russell Terriers and Ridgebacks (individual dogs of any breed can enjoy rough play, this list is not complete by any means).  Dogs that like rough play often don't take play-breaks to sniff or change roles (chaser vs. chasee) they simply keep mouth-wrestling until one or both dogs are unsure about the status of the game:  Real or play?

3. The dog gets along fine with known dogs and often plays well within that social group, but guards resources from unknown dogs.  Resources are anything the dog feels are valuable.  Some dogs guard toys, some dogs guard their playmates and some dogs guard people, food and locations (the park bench).

More on Playful Body Language >>>click here.

More on Guarding >>>click here.

Whether your dog fights a lot, or has only been in one fight...

The seriousness boils down to ONE KEY QUESTION:

How much damage did your dog do to the other dog?

Dogs have what trainers, behaviorists and veterinarians call Bite Inhibition.  This refers to the amount of tooth/jaw force used by a dog when they fight or defend.  Bite Inhibition is learned when the dog is a puppy.  At about 3-4 months of age, a dog's socialization window closes and the dog will have established their Bite Inhibition.  Puppy classes include puppy-to-puppy playtime to increase the practice time puppies have and improve their Bite Inhibition skills.

Dogs with Poor Bite Inhibition (sometimes called a Hard Mouth/Bad Mouth) use greater force than is needed and cause damage:  punctures & tears.

Dogs with Good Bite Inhibition (Soft Mouth/Good Mouth) limit the force that they could use and do little to no damage when they bite:  yelp, brusie, scrape.

More on Bite Inhibition (appropriate corrections in play) >>>click here.

What it means...

Bite Inhibition cannot be re-learned, trained, or punished out.  A dog that fights vary rarely, but who causes serious damage (veterinary care and sutures required) is far more dangerous than a dog that fights all the time, but never leaves a mark.

If your dog has seriously injured another dog, the prognosis for rehabilitating the dog's Bite Inhibition is poor.  Dogs that cause damage, even if they fight rarely, should be muzzled at the dog park.  Exceptions are rare and I limit them to ear-tears.  Ears are thin, tear easily and bleed profusely.  But exceptions are rare and this decision is left best to training professionals.

So if you have a dog that has injured another dog in a fight, the dog should always wear a MUZZLE. There are many, perfectly happy, muzzled dogs.  It beats never getting out to play, paying large vet bills, or going to dog court!

NOTE:  A Muzzle is NOT a replacement for TRAINING.  

Dogs that fight need help from a certified trainer! 

Dear Kelley,

I pray you can help me. Last year I rescued a dog, and myself + my family showered her with love. She had had a very distressing past history, this reinforced to us when she bit my Mother In Law on her third day with us. They were very serious bites and our vet said we had no option but to put her down as she had a high risk of re-offending.

We, as a family, found this incredibly difficult but had no choice. She was a beautiful 2 yr old collie and it was so heartbreaking. We recently re-homed a 6-month old German Shepherd who is a real sweetheart.

However we have just realized that our 12 yr old daughter is still traumatized by the incident with my Mother In Law (which she witnessed).

Krya jumped up to lick her and she had a panic attack. My question to you is "Is it better to put a muzzle on a dog we all love or let her move to a home where she does not have that restraint? She would get plenty of stimulation with us, walks beside a canal for 2 hrs a day, hill walking/climbing regularly with loads of love + attention. Please let me know which outcome would be better for Kyra as it is her welfare that is at the forefront of our dilemma. 

Kind regards, Linda

Facts & Summary:

1. "Kyra" is your new, 6-mo. old German Shepherd Dog.  
   
2. Your daughter, age 12, was recently witness to a severe bite inflicted by a different dog to a family member.
   
3. The dog who bit was a 3-day, newly adopted, 2-yr old Collie.
   
4. The Collie was euthanized for aggression as recommended by your vet.  
   
5. Although the new dog is friendly, she is rambunctious and untrained.
   
6. Your daughter is having panic attacks whenever the dog jumps up on her, licks her or does both.  

QUESTION:

Should you use a a muzzle on the new dog,  so that your daughter will not have to worry about being bitten.  Or, is this unfair to the dog?

First, let me say that if your daughters fear is severe, or getting worse, you may want to seek help from a mental health professional.  

It is entirely normal to be afraid of large animals with big teeth!  But it sounds as if you are describing a new change in your daughter that is drastically different because of a specific event.  

Given the bite your daughter witnessed and the events that followed, I am not surprised that your daughter is having a difficult time bonding with your new dog.

If you can't manage the access the two have to each other with gates, crates, and tie-downs while still providing excellent opportunities for mental and physical exercise for the dog, then you may want to re-home the GSD.

If you are able to find professional help for your daughter and the prognosis is good, then it might be possible to temporarily manage the situation and work through the issue.  

Having worked as a humane educator I do have some experience working with social workers and psychologists in controlled settings with dogs and children who were fearful of, or had had a traumatic experience with an aggressive dog.  It takes time to recover from a bad experience and steady, slow progress is best.

From a dog-behavior perspective, "wiggly" & "overly-friendly" are encouraging terms.  They mean that the dog is not afraid (potential fear-aggression), just untrained.  Untrained is fixable with patience and a little work.  The dog's temperament aside, the human needs to be comfortable too and wiggly/friendly can be just too much for a fearful person.  

When working with people who are afraid of dogs, I have never started with a puppy!  They are TOO-WIGGLY!  A friendly, well-trained adult dog who listens well to commands is ideal.  So, don't peg your daughters recovery on your puppy.  Consider training the puppy and getting your daughter (at her comfort level) interacting with older, well-behaved, friendly dogs.

Regarding your specific question, I would NOT recommend muzzling the dog.

I only use muzzles when the is a clear indication that a bite is likely and/or a previously known history of the dog having bitten or fought.  

If this is a concern (that the GSD may have some tendency to bite or nip) than it may be best to re-home the dog and focus on your daughter's feelings and concerns regarding dogs.  

If the dog is not currently biting or showing signs of being fearful or aggressive, then it is your daughter whom you need to turn your energy.  

Muzzling the dog will not fix your daughter's fear, but could give her a false sense of security.  

Furthermore, your 6-month old pup will miss out on the opportunity she needs to learn what (toys) she is allowed to put her mouth on and when (never), she may place (even gently) her mouth on people.

If the dog is NOT biting or puppy-nipping then by all means, please use other management devices such as crates, pens or tie-downs to prevent the dog from jumping all over your daughter.  

This is just good-sense for anyone with a rude, jumpy pup.  

Preventing the dog from practicing the bad behavior is critical to training.  

Finally, please enroll in a Reward-Based (no choke/prong collars) Training Class.  

Don't forget to include your daughter in training the dog.  The class may be overwhelming, lots of young, un-trained dogs, but your daughter could be included in the homework exercises.  

In the beginning this may mean that someone else holds the leash and controls the dog from a distance, or that your daughter gives the commands or food-rewards.

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Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

Elberta, AL

FEBRUARY 4, 2009, 11:27 AM

The motivational issue.

The management issue.

A possible health concern.

My major suggestions would be:

Create a BACK-UP PLAN.  

Do this until the dog spits out the item as soon as you toss the treats.

DO NOT touch the item or try to take it if your dog is still holding it, or standing over it.

Continue to work DROP with the tug toy, then try DROP with a sock that you are holding.

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Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

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Dear Kelley,

I do not have an aggressive dog, but I do have a dog that is currently in the hospital because she rooted around in my coat and ate a package of gum that had Xylitol as a main ingredient... a sweetner can cause necrosis of the liver. 

 

I have considered using a muzzle on my dog to keep her from grabbing food when we are eating in the house...  Would using a muzzle be any type of solution for this type of behavior?

 

Kaitlin T.

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Answer Below.

Do you have a question for Kelley?

  

This goofy pup is learning to LOVE his Grooming Muzzle (aka Mickey Muzzle).  It isn't even clipped -he's just licking Peanut Butter from inside and learning that sticking his nose inside is FANTASTIC!

Dear Kaitlyn,

I am so glad to hear that your pup is OK.  And yes, it is certainly possible to use a muzzle to prevent your dog from eating harmful substances or from scavenging nasty items when romping off-leash.  It sounds as if you have already planned to use a muzzle for management while you complete training.  

Please be sure that your dog is comfortable with the muzzle.  A special training processed called Desensitization & Counter-Conditioning can be used to teach a dog (or any animal) to be more comfortable with new items. Also, if your dog is wearing the muzzle for long periods of time (more than 15-20 minutes in moderate temperatures) be sure that the muzzle is light-weight and that your dog can pant and drink water.  

Mickey Muzzles (shown in the photo above) when fitted properly do not allow dogs to open their mouths.  They are NOT for use in training situations as they should not be left on the dog for any length of time -especially if unsupervised.  Sometimes Grooming Muzzles are used when dogs are taken on public transportation -in these situations the dog is supervised and should not be exposed to warm temperatures or long trips.  

A flexible polyethylene Basket Muzzle is best for long-term use.  They allow dogs to pant and drink water.  Because they tend to look "scary" I like to decorate them; Ribbons, 

non-toxic paint (nail-polish works too), and cute scarves, bows, and collars help soften the effect.  If that isn't your cup of tea, you can try ordering one that matches your dogs fur (more of a blend-in, rather than a muzzle-flamboyant style).

Here are some other points to consider.

Teach your dog some manners.  More on begging, stealing and commands for leaving items, like Drop-it.

Make sure your pup has plenty of LEGAL CHEW ITEMS!  This is super important for dogs that have hunting backgrounds like Jack Russell Terriers & Beagles, or for dogs that are master chewers like Labradors, Rottweilers, and Pit Bull Terriers.  I like Kongs stuffed with food.  In fact, my dogs haven't eaten out of bowls in years.  All their food goes into Kongs and they chew, lick, and suck their food out as if they were working on a freshly killed chunk of meat.

Get help from a Certified Dog Trainer.  Not all trainers are certified and not all trainers use humane, modern dog training methods.  For a list of certified trainers in your area try doing a search for an SPCA Certified Trainer in your area.  The SF/SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers is run by Jean Donaldson, author of many wonderful books on dog training, including my favorite -The Culture Clash.

MORE ON KONGS!!!

http://blogs.dogtime.com/secret-shopper-pet-product-reviews/2008/10/kong-what-would-we-do-without-you

http://blogs.dogtime.com/go-dog-training/2008/09/behaving-badly

http://www.sfspca.org/resources/library/for-dog-owners/abcs/kong-stuffing.pdf

http://www.kongcompany.com/worlds_best.html