Everyday I play the same game with my Houndy-mix Eddie.  I give him a rawhide and he buries it in the yard.  He spends a few good hours being paranoid about it -rushing to the back garden at the slightest sound; leaping to his feet if the other dogs go outside; and finally not-so-cleverly giving away the secret location.  When its time to collect the bone I move around the yard and watch Eddie's face. I can tell by the paranoid look in his eye when I am getting warm... getting warm... RED-HOT!  Then, I collect the rawhide and store it for the next day.

 Today's "Secret" Location

Why do dogs bury things?

There appears to be no answer.  Don't get me wrong, there is a good deal of conjecture and lots of opinions, but no real scientific answers.  The common theories seem to be that dogs are:

1.  Saving snacks for later

2.  Hiding food from other hunters

Whatever the reason, some dogs are compelled to bury their stuff.  From a behavioral perspective the "WHY" is only one part of the mystery.  The "HOW" is equally as interesting.  The burying of bones (and other stuff) is a Fixed-Action-Pattern.  This means that all dogs follow the same basic recipe and that they don't need to learn the ropes from any other dog -it comes pre-installed as a complete behavior.

Scratch with paws...

Push with nose...

Scrape with muzzle...

Push with nose...

Scrape with muzzle...

There are variations for sure, but the basic building blocks are performed the same way by the tiniest lapdogs and the biggest hounds.  

So, why do dog's bury bones?  

Because their genes tell them to; because long ago dogs that buried stuff had some kind of advantage over those that didn't and they survived and produced more dogs that buried stuff.

Even A Well-Behaved Dog Is A DOG!

Dogs need to do Dog-Things.  Puppies, like children need to do everything and they have short attention spans.  

A common behavior concern is chewing!  Punishing a dog for being a dog is a sure way to ruin your relationship with your new pup.  Dogs need to chew.  They should not be punished for being dogs.

Puppies and inexperienced dogs see the whole world is an unexplored chew toy.  There are endless places to find new chews and hundreds of ways to sneak a chew.  If your dog isn't getting the chew-fun she needs from her toys, your dog will find something new to chew.  

My clients are constantly frustrated and overwhelmed when they focus all their energy on catching their dog chewing forbidden items (table legs, tissue, clothes, remote controls, etc...)  Make your life easier; make your puppies day.  Put most of your energy into creating chew options, not just limiting them.  Make toys and chew puzzles fun and exciting for your dog.  

Then watch your dog!  I spend countless hours just watching my dogs enjoy their chew-time.  Their chewing pleasure is a site to behold.  You too can learn to marvel at their canine abilities to chew, nibble, rip and dissect.  

Just pick the items they chew on for them and make them worth their while so they won't want to waste time experimenting for better options.  Then take some time to appreciate what they liked most, what they were good at chewing and how they can lull themselves into a near meditative state on the perfect chew.

This is an email question from a DogTime Blog reader.  It is about a Labrador named Lucy who suddenly became aggressive to her owner during training classes.  

The owner stated that Lucy does well with heel, sit & down stay, leave-it unless there is a distraction such as a ball.  "Lucy...  ignores the other toy distractions and only fixates on the balls.   Naturally, she struggles with maintaining her focus on me and my commands during this exercise, but we do have moments of success.  She will leave it, but still maintains a fixated focus and trembles with excitement."  

But Trouble is brewing...

In the email Lucy's owner reported:  "This week in training Lucy was so agitated during this exercise that she snapped at me 3 times when I corrected her and snapped at other dogs in class.  It is like the training, though having some positive affect, is actually bringing out the worse in my dog."

Lucy's owner is alarmed because, "In her two years, Lucy has never, ever snapped at anyone or any other dog during play or on walks.  I have expressed this concern with the trainer, and her feeling is that this behavior was just in there waiting to come out.  I am just not sure about that explanation and thought I would share my story with someone else."

I asked Marianne to share more with me about how she is teaching Lucy to LEAVE-IT.

Marianne reported:  "We are using a standard slip chain choke collar.  I snap and release the collar to correct.  On the snap, I say "uh uh" (hard to spell that!), then give the command.  For example, to have her ignore a ball or toy, I tell her to "leave it.  If she goes for it, I snap and release the collar, say "uh, uh" and repeat "leave it".

"When she reacts correctly, I give verbal praise in a softer, higher tone of voice, such as "good leave it" or "good heel".  Frequently, during our training, I stroke her and give her positive verbal feedback...no treats until the end of class."

There are several problems with the way that Marianne is being instructed to teach her dog.  I will summarize my concerns and the errors in the training below.  

However, I want to be VERY CLEAR about TWO THINGS.

1. Marianne did nothing wrong.  She enrolled her dog training class with someone whom she was told was an expert.  Dog training is still an unregulated field.  Many of us, myself included are looking forward to the day when all trainers will need to be certified and/or licensed.  As it is now, anyone can call themselves a trainer.  There are a few Certifications Programs in the U.S.

2. The following is NOT MY OPINION.  Training is a SCIENCE.  This means that there are rules.  While I have my own personal standards for "humane training" I am not at this moment referring to HOW you get the job done.  I am instead referring to HOW ANIMALS LEARN.  A good trainer should have a solid basis in understanding Operant & Classical Conditioning regardless of whether they give out cookies, collar corrections, or both.  Without these fundamentals skills they are not prepared to train a dog.  Would you go to a doctor that you overheard saying: "Veins, Arteries, whatever; they both do blood stuff!"  I didn't think so.

So What Is Going On With Lucy?  Is she turning aggressive?

For starters, Lucy's aggression was a trained response.  It was unintentional, but it was taught.  Specifically Lucy was taught to HATE seeing Tennis balls in class.  Lucy was being asked to perform a task that she could not do, and because she was not given any guidance on the correct response (look away from the ball) her training looked like this.

Tennis Balls Appear In Class -------> Lucy is subjected to a barrage of jerks, snaps and chokes.

Punishment is a crude tool and has the potential for causing aggression.  In this case, Lucy began to associate the tennis ball distraction with pain.  All animals like to avoid pain and at some point will either choose to fight back or flee.  As Lucy was on-leash fleeing was not an option.

An even more astonishing is that Lucy was never shown WHAT TO DO.  When I want a dog to perform a Leave-it, I like to focus on what that looks like when the dogs gets it right (look away, sit, look at handler).  There are countless ways to get something wrong, and generally only a few correct responses.  Focussing on the correct response is not just nicer for the dog, but gives faster and eliminates the side-effects (ruined relationship, fearful dog, aggression) of aversive punishments.

What I would have done to train Lucy.

Bounce a Distraction-ball until Lucy notices the ball.

Have Lucy's owner give the Command (say, "Leave-it") the moment Lucy notices the distraction-ball.

Stop bouncing the Distraction-ball (kindergarten level) & Give Lucy a moment to respond on her own, by looking away.

Help Lucy get it right a few times (look away from the ball) by having the handler produce a Hint (squeaky tennis ball).

Praise Lucy at the exact moment that she looks away from the original distraction-ball (even if she is just listening to the hint).

Reward Lucy with something she really, really wanted A BALL!

Repeat this until Lucy looks away from the original Distraction-ball on her own BEFORE the Hint & reward Lucy with both balls and end the lesson.  Review later and continue to raise the expectations until the hint is no longer needed and the reward is expected to be random.

Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

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Dear Kelley,

I do not have an aggressive dog, but I do have a dog that is currently in the hospital because she rooted around in my coat and ate a package of gum that had Xylitol as a main ingredient... a sweetner can cause necrosis of the liver. 

 

I have considered using a muzzle on my dog to keep her from grabbing food when we are eating in the house...  Would using a muzzle be any type of solution for this type of behavior?

 

Kaitlin T.

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Answer Below.

Do you have a question for Kelley?

  

This goofy pup is learning to LOVE his Grooming Muzzle (aka Mickey Muzzle).  It isn't even clipped -he's just licking Peanut Butter from inside and learning that sticking his nose inside is FANTASTIC!

Dear Kaitlyn,

I am so glad to hear that your pup is OK.  And yes, it is certainly possible to use a muzzle to prevent your dog from eating harmful substances or from scavenging nasty items when romping off-leash.  It sounds as if you have already planned to use a muzzle for management while you complete training.  

Please be sure that your dog is comfortable with the muzzle.  A special training processed called Desensitization & Counter-Conditioning can be used to teach a dog (or any animal) to be more comfortable with new items. Also, if your dog is wearing the muzzle for long periods of time (more than 15-20 minutes in moderate temperatures) be sure that the muzzle is light-weight and that your dog can pant and drink water.  

Mickey Muzzles (shown in the photo above) when fitted properly do not allow dogs to open their mouths.  They are NOT for use in training situations as they should not be left on the dog for any length of time -especially if unsupervised.  Sometimes Grooming Muzzles are used when dogs are taken on public transportation -in these situations the dog is supervised and should not be exposed to warm temperatures or long trips.  

A flexible polyethylene Basket Muzzle is best for long-term use.  They allow dogs to pant and drink water.  Because they tend to look "scary" I like to decorate them; Ribbons, 

non-toxic paint (nail-polish works too), and cute scarves, bows, and collars help soften the effect.  If that isn't your cup of tea, you can try ordering one that matches your dogs fur (more of a blend-in, rather than a muzzle-flamboyant style).

Here are some other points to consider.

Teach your dog some manners.  More on begging, stealing and commands for leaving items, like Drop-it.

Make sure your pup has plenty of LEGAL CHEW ITEMS!  This is super important for dogs that have hunting backgrounds like Jack Russell Terriers & Beagles, or for dogs that are master chewers like Labradors, Rottweilers, and Pit Bull Terriers.  I like Kongs stuffed with food.  In fact, my dogs haven't eaten out of bowls in years.  All their food goes into Kongs and they chew, lick, and suck their food out as if they were working on a freshly killed chunk of meat.

Get help from a Certified Dog Trainer.  Not all trainers are certified and not all trainers use humane, modern dog training methods.  For a list of certified trainers in your area try doing a search for an SPCA Certified Trainer in your area.  The SF/SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers is run by Jean Donaldson, author of many wonderful books on dog training, including my favorite -The Culture Clash.

MORE ON KONGS!!!

http://blogs.dogtime.com/secret-shopper-pet-product-reviews/2008/10/kong-what-would-we-do-without-you

http://blogs.dogtime.com/go-dog-training/2008/09/behaving-badly

http://www.sfspca.org/resources/library/for-dog-owners/abcs/kong-stuffing.pdf

http://www.kongcompany.com/worlds_best.html

Bumble-Bees Taste... OUCHY!!!!!

Sometimes your dog's drive to get something... will over-rule an unpleasant consequence.  

Today this little Setter (Bird-Dog Extraordinaire) discovered that Bumble-Bees are low-flying, slow-moving birds.  She caught one and it bit back, but she kept hunting them, and catching them for the rest of the walk.  It would be like if asking you not to reach into hot water for $100 bills.  Your hand could be bright red, but you'd probably keep going.  

Just another reason why training with motivation is important for you and your dog.  Giving consequences (even unpleasant ones) won't always work.  Sometimes you need to give your dog access to what they need/want.  When safe this is always best, but food and toys can be used as surrogate prey to satisfy a hunting instinct.   The BEST way to build a relationship AND train your dog to listen is with rewards.