Go Dog Training

Even A Well-Behaved Dog Is A DOG!

Dogs need to do Dog-Things.  Puppies, like children need to do everything and they have short attention spans.  

A common behavior concern is chewing!  Punishing a dog for being a dog is a sure way to ruin your relationship with your new pup.  Dogs need to chew.  They should not be punished for being dogs.

Puppies and inexperienced dogs see the whole world is an unexplored chew toy.  There are endless places to find new chews and hundreds of ways to sneak a chew.  If your dog isn't getting the chew-fun she needs from her toys, your dog will find something new to chew.  

My clients are constantly frustrated and overwhelmed when they focus all their energy on catching their dog chewing forbidden items (table legs, tissue, clothes, remote controls, etc...)  Make your life easier; make your puppies day.  Put most of your energy into creating chew options, not just limiting them.  Make toys and chew puzzles fun and exciting for your dog.  

Then watch your dog!  I spend countless hours just watching my dogs enjoy their chew-time.  Their chewing pleasure is a site to behold.  You too can learn to marvel at their canine abilities to chew, nibble, rip and dissect.  

Just pick the items they chew on for them and make them worth their while so they won't want to waste time experimenting for better options.  Then take some time to appreciate what they liked most, what they were good at chewing and how they can lull themselves into a near meditative state on the perfect chew.

1.  Crate Training Your Puppy is the fastest way to have a completely house-trained pup.

Taking a puppy out for frequent potty breaks and rewarding the puppy for appropriate elimination is only 1/2 the battle.  Crates teach puppies how to hold their bladder until they are outside the "den" and in the correct place.

2.  Crate Training keeps your puppy safe.  

Puppies can get into anything in a second.  Sometimes it is just annoying when they chew things, but sometimes it is really, really dangerous.  Wires, small ingestible items (I found a green thumb tack in puppy poop once), and certain foods can be dangerous for puppies.

3.  Crate training teaches puppies how to settle down and stay in one spot for a reasonable amount of time.  

If they never practice "chilling out" in one location when they are young, they are unlikely to do it later. Of corse they are young so they will need help settling down.  Chews, kongs, and other food puzzles are excellent items to give to your pup in a crate. 

OTHER THOUGHTS

Puppies can generally hold their bladders for only short periods of time.  

A general rule of thumb is:  1 hr for every month of age.  A 2-month old puppy will need to be let out of the crate for a potty-break somewhere between 1.5 - 2 hrs.

Do not expect your pup to hold it when they are running around.  

A free-roaming pup might pee every 10-30minutes.  Puppies will generally hold their bladder if they are in a small, confined space (your crate).  At about 10-12 weeks I find that most pups can make it through the night without needing a potty-break, but this does not mean that they can "hold it" or be crated for that long during the day.

If your pup has just peed and pooped then spend time with them in the house.  

Supervise them carefully and re-direct them onto their toys if they start to chew on anything inappropriate.  After about 30-minutes your 8-10 week old pup will probably be "feeling the urge."  At this point you can take them out again or crate them for 1hr. so that they have a chance to practice "holding it" until they are taken to the potty spot again.

Do you have a question for Kelley? by DogTime blogger Kelley Filson

Your dog is NOT being naughty...

On purpose,

To get back at you,

Or, because they are trying to dominate you!

Your dog's behavior is not malicious.  

Behavior is a result of past CONSEQUENCES & current MOTIVATIONS.  

Chances are they...

a) Really DON'T know better.

• They are acting on instinct (dogs bark, whine and chase things).
  

• They are doing what feels best to them (peeing and pooping feels better than holding it).
  

• They are repeating something that has worked before (checking the counter for more toast).

   

b) Just don't care.

• There is no yucky consequences (peeing on rug = relief).
  

• The consequence is late or seems unconnected (yell at dog for chewing couch sometime while you were gone).
  

• The consequence is actually rewarding the behavior (pushing a dog down for jumping up = touch/attention).
  

• Something else is more compelling/appealing at the moment (pulling towards the next great smell is worth the choking sensation).

  
  

Things to think about...

Have you ever done something even though you "knew better?"

Have you ever performed poorly at something you "know how to do?"

Have you ever made a bad meal or burnt dinner?

Did you do it to "get back" at someone or as revenge, or was it just the way things went?

Did everyone notice how "in charge" you were of their food enjoyment and "feel subordinate" to you?

Have you ever missed a payment or fogotten something important?

Was it to "make a statement" about something, or prove your power?

Did you do it "on purpose" even though you "knew better" and had done it right before?

Do you know better than to call in sick when your friend is visiting?  

What is your motivation?  

What is the consequence? 

Are you a "good" driver?

Have you ever sped?

Why, it is "wrong" isn't it?

Have you ever been "sneaky" about when/where you speed?  Why?

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Dear Kelley,

I do not have an aggressive dog, but I do have a dog that is currently in the hospital because she rooted around in my coat and ate a package of gum that had Xylitol as a main ingredient... a sweetner can cause necrosis of the liver. 

 

I have considered using a muzzle on my dog to keep her from grabbing food when we are eating in the house...  Would using a muzzle be any type of solution for this type of behavior?

 

Kaitlin T.

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Answer Below.

Do you have a question for Kelley?

  

This goofy pup is learning to LOVE his Grooming Muzzle (aka Mickey Muzzle).  It isn't even clipped -he's just licking Peanut Butter from inside and learning that sticking his nose inside is FANTASTIC!

Dear Kaitlyn,

I am so glad to hear that your pup is OK.  And yes, it is certainly possible to use a muzzle to prevent your dog from eating harmful substances or from scavenging nasty items when romping off-leash.  It sounds as if you have already planned to use a muzzle for management while you complete training.  

Please be sure that your dog is comfortable with the muzzle.  A special training processed called Desensitization & Counter-Conditioning can be used to teach a dog (or any animal) to be more comfortable with new items. Also, if your dog is wearing the muzzle for long periods of time (more than 15-20 minutes in moderate temperatures) be sure that the muzzle is light-weight and that your dog can pant and drink water.  

Mickey Muzzles (shown in the photo above) when fitted properly do not allow dogs to open their mouths.  They are NOT for use in training situations as they should not be left on the dog for any length of time -especially if unsupervised.  Sometimes Grooming Muzzles are used when dogs are taken on public transportation -in these situations the dog is supervised and should not be exposed to warm temperatures or long trips.  

A flexible polyethylene Basket Muzzle is best for long-term use.  They allow dogs to pant and drink water.  Because they tend to look "scary" I like to decorate them; Ribbons, 

non-toxic paint (nail-polish works too), and cute scarves, bows, and collars help soften the effect.  If that isn't your cup of tea, you can try ordering one that matches your dogs fur (more of a blend-in, rather than a muzzle-flamboyant style).

Here are some other points to consider.

Teach your dog some manners.  More on begging, stealing and commands for leaving items, like Drop-it.

Make sure your pup has plenty of LEGAL CHEW ITEMS!  This is super important for dogs that have hunting backgrounds like Jack Russell Terriers & Beagles, or for dogs that are master chewers like Labradors, Rottweilers, and Pit Bull Terriers.  I like Kongs stuffed with food.  In fact, my dogs haven't eaten out of bowls in years.  All their food goes into Kongs and they chew, lick, and suck their food out as if they were working on a freshly killed chunk of meat.

Get help from a Certified Dog Trainer.  Not all trainers are certified and not all trainers use humane, modern dog training methods.  For a list of certified trainers in your area try doing a search for an SPCA Certified Trainer in your area.  The SF/SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers is run by Jean Donaldson, author of many wonderful books on dog training, including my favorite -The Culture Clash.

MORE ON KONGS!!!

http://blogs.dogtime.com/secret-shopper-pet-product-reviews/2008/10/kong-what-would-we-do-without-you

http://blogs.dogtime.com/go-dog-training/2008/09/behaving-badly

http://www.sfspca.org/resources/library/for-dog-owners/abcs/kong-stuffing.pdf

http://www.kongcompany.com/worlds_best.html

Now that you understand WHY your puppy is barking...

You can TEACH YOUR PUPPY TO BE ALONE!

If you have never left your puppy alone it is important to do everything that you can to set them up for success.

Puppies should have an area that is safe and can be gated-off. If you have a jumper, try stacking two gates. I prefer this to shutting a door. Door need to be opened to see what is happening, and they can be scratched. If you aren't sure... start by stacking two gates so that any jumping attempts will fail.

This area should be easy-to-clean, in case your pup has an accident. Tile and linoleum floor are best. Cement is porous and will absorb odors unless protected with a sealant. The puppy confinement area should be safe. Remove any items of value and anything your pup might chew or make a mess with such as plants, books, baskets, clothing, cleaning items etc...

This area should have a crate. The door can be left open and a comfortable bed can be inside the crate. There should be some water in a spill-proof bowl. You don't want to have to go back because they barked, jumped and knocked over the water. This will give your dog the idea that barking & spilling = mommy and daddy come back.

Try putting your puppy in this area when she is:

EXHAUSTED! Think a 3-hour walk or hike, a doggie-play session at the beach, an afternoon with the kids from the neighborhood.

HUNGRY! I encourage you to skip or go light on a meal or two. It won't hurt the pup if they miss a lunch meal just once.

You should be:

RESTED! Don't do this when you are tired, cranky or short on patience.

READY FOR SOME NOISE! Earphones, movie, music, home-workout.

NOT GOING ANYWHERE! Don't actually leave during or after the first time you do this.

THE PLAN FOR PUPPIES FIRST SUCCESSFUL ALONE-TIME.

1. Skip breakfast, but prepare a really tasty Kong and put it in the fridge.
   
2. Check that the confinement area is fully prepared and puppy-proofed.
   
3. Take your puppy out for a really, really long hike, play session, walk or combination of all of this.
   
4. Bring the pup back home (don't let this be a long nappy car trip (this will undo the exercise).
   
5. Take your pup to their potty area and allow them time to take care of business.
   
6. Go to the kitchen and get the Kong and a few chew items.
   
7. Put the puppy in the confinement area and give them the Kong. Secure the gate (stacking if necessary).
   
8. Walk away and out of the room -IGNORE what you hear.
   
9. Wait until the puppy is quiet for at least 10-15 minutes, then listen (without disturbing).
   

Does it sound like the pup is asleep? Eating from the Kong? Chewing? Congratulations. Now just let your pup out BEFORE they start to cry again.

Feed your pup like this everyday.  Soon they will need only normal amounts of exercise and you can start putting their regular food in the kong with less and less of the really amazing treats.

Do You Have A Training Question For Kelley? Click Here.