Training Small dogs can be a challenge. Dogs that weigh less than 10lbs move quickly. They are also so close to the ground already that using a Food-Lure (a treat held in your hand, close to their nose) can be challenging. For medium and large dogs Food-Lures are a convenient ways to move dogs into positions like sit or down. However, with small dogs Food-Lures can sometimes cause more jumping-bean action than is conducive to training.
For really small, fast-flying dogs I prefer to sit back and relax when training. For this type of training a CLICKER is really, really handy. A clicker is a small device that makes a click-sound when the metal flap inside the small box is pressed down and released.
Clickers are used to train dogs, horses, cats, pigeonsrats and even marine mammals. Using a clicker is simple. In the beginning the animal in training needs only to learn that each click-sound will be quickly followed by a small reward (technically it must be a reinforcer) that the animal will enjoy and working for. I like using small, tasty bits of food like cheeses or meats.
The rules are simple.
1. Click what you like.
2. Click at the EXACT moment the behavior is accomplished.
3. Don't command the animal to DO anything, JUST WAIT for something -be patient!!!
4. Reward the animal after every click.
5. Train is short intervals 5-10minutes
Sometimes it is helpful to think of the clicker as a camera. At the end of the training if each CLICK was a PHOTO, and if you placed all those photos on your kitchen table you would have only photos of the behavior (sit, down, bow) that you were hoping to train.
Here are two Kinder-CLICKER lesson for fast-flying, jumpy little-dogs.
1. Click (and reward) the dog anytime they are NOT moving. Click the dog for being still in any position. Offer extra treats for clicks that marked exceptionally cute still positions (like sit or down). After 2 or 3 sessions, raise the bar and click only certain positions.
2. Click (and reward) All Cute Behaviors. This is my favorite. I will click anything cute!!! Head-tilts, play-bows, prairie-dog position, sit, down, waving. Then I pick one behavior that gets clicked and a special bonus treat (gorgonzola). I like to see how long it takes for the dog to offer only that behavior.
A Basket Muzzle can be used to prevent a dog from biting, but it is not to be used as a replacement for addressing the problem, or for contacting a certified trainer.
A light-weight basket muzzle is always the best option when the dog will be participating in an physical exercise such as walking or playing.
It is also the best choice when the dog will or may be wearing the muzzle for longer than a few minutes, or for management of a lifetime problem such as Lack of Bite Inhibition (see below).
In general a muzzle is used when there is a history of the dog's bite having caused damage such as scratches or punctures.
A muzzle may also be used with a dog who has not yet bitten, but who is showing clear warning signals that they are likely to bite such as GROWLING, SNARLING or SNAPPING (especially if the aggression is directed at people).
Dogs who show signs of aggression, but whose Bite Inhibition is not known, may also need to wear a muzzle. Because a dog who has not bitten has Unknown Bite Inhibition, it can not be determined how seriously the dog may bite.
Some dogs, especially those socialized well as puppies, will use their teeth and jaws and cause little to no damage. Other dogs, those with Poor Bite Inhibition, will leave punctures, tear the skin, or worse bite multiple times with deep punctures and tearing.
Good Bite Inhibition means that the dog causes little or no damage. It is possible for a dog to have bitten many times and have Good Bite Inhibition. It is also possible for a dog who rarely fights, or almost never bites to have Poor Bite Inhibition. Dogs who almost never fight/bite, but who have cause damage (punctures needing medical or veterinary care) should always be muzzled when around the people or dogs they may harm.
Do You Have A Training Question For Kelley? Click Here.
OK, so rabbit ears & wigs are silly items, but the training principals that were applied in the process of teaching this dog to wear them are universal. The steps outlined below can be used to get your dog to love and willingly participate in wearing things you want or need them to wear. In working with my clients and their dogs I use this system frequently when I need a dog to wear muzzle or head halter.
With puppies preparation is the key. I like to start early when teaching a pup to tolerate booties (paw protection for later injuries to the foot) or goofy collars (like the post-surgery lampshade). Other uses include Other uses include getting your dog comfortable with the sight and feel of a comb, toothbrush, nail trimmers, or ear cleaning pads. Ideally you will have time to do this training. If you are in a crunch for time, please seek suggestions for speeding along this process from a certified trainer.
1. Start by leaving the Training Item (TI) around so that your dog can investigate the TI and learn that its presence means nothing. This is the first step: Convincing your dog that nothing yucky will happen when the Training Item appears.
If you have a chew-prone puppy or dog, supervise your dog when you first present the item. DO NOT punish the dog if they attempt to chew the item. You do not want your dog to think that the item means they get in trouble. If they start to chew the item, gently encourage them to chew on an appropriate chew toy.
This step will take 1-3 days. Place the Training Item (TI) on your dogs bed, on the floor or next to you on the couch. Leave it out for 10-15 minutes then put the TI away. DO NOT make any attempt to get your dogs attention or put the Training Item on or near the dog.
2. Now start playing with the item. Bring the TI out several times each day and fiddle with parts that make noise (velcro straps, clips, jingly parts, etc...) or if the TI has a smell like toothpaste or ear cleaners, open the container so that the smell can be perceived by your dog.
DO NOT attempt to put the Training Item on or near your dog. Remember you are still teaching them that NOTHING YUCKY WILL HAPPEN. You are simply adding a new parameter: the movement of the items, sound of the item and you holding the item. Also repeat this step for several days. Some dogs will show no concern over the noise or movement, others will take a long time before they are convinced that NOTHING IS GOING TO HAPPEN.
3. The work really begins in this next step. Because your dog will be working too, you will need something to pay them with so that the job is fun.
As far as paychecks go, dogs are most likely to work the hardest for toys or food. Toys are great for dogs that love playing fetch or tug more than anything! By this I mean that your dog will spit out a treat when looking at a ball and that will only drop a tug toy for another toy, but not for a treat. If this is your dog, pick one toy and keep it special for the training. Only play with that toy in training sessions.
If your dog LOVES food, or is luke-warm on toys (95% of pet dogs) FOOD IS THE IDEAL PAYCHECK for your dog. If this is your dog, pick a special treat to use in training. Do not give your dog this specially chosen treat unless you are training. My dogs like cheese, chicken baby food, roast beef, french fries and meatballs BEST. These are special training treats; they only get these treats when we are training!
4. Preparing for the training session is important. Start by teaching the dog that the presence of the paycheck means nothing.
I know that there is a lot of money kept at banks, but I don't get excited when I'm at the ATM because I know that the amount of cash in the building is irrelevant to me. The amount that means something to me is what I have earned and put into my account. Teaching this concept to your dog (about their paycheck) is important. Your dog is already prepared to salivate and anticipate yummy stuff when they smell food in your hand or to get excited when they see the ball or tug toy. Because this is the natural state of anticipation for your dog, you will need to undo it a bit, to help them make the connection you want.
The connection you are hoping to achieve is:
Training Item Near Dog's Body ---------------------------------->Yippee!!!
What you are starting with is:
Training Item ------->Nothing & Food/Toy Paycheck --------->Yippee!!!
5. Making the Food/Toy Paycheck mean as little as the training item. Because the Training Item (barring a bad previous experience) started an neutral it was quickly accepted as irrelevant. The toy and food DO HAVE VALUE and meaning to your dog already (yum or yipee). Therefore, we are going to start by re-teaching your dog that the paycheck is present but unavailable.
To do this, pick your paycheck (great food or fantastic toy) and prepare it.
Get your training item (hat, booties, collar) and place it near you, but do not touch it.
Then for 10 minutes randomly pick up the paycheck for 1-2 seconds (toy/food) let your dog see you touch (they can even sniff at it), but NOT let them get the paycheck.
End the session and put everything away. Yes, your dog will be confused and bummed.
Repeat this for 3-5 days until your dog is BORED with the game and wanders away or lays down -proof they know they are getting nothing.
6. Now we are ready to teach the dog when when and how the paycheck can be earned. At the next session, start the same way, but about a minute into the session, pick up the Training Item. Immediately feed your dog or let your dog play with the toy. Then continue picking up the paycheck. Remember, no Training item, no paycheck. Repeat this in short, frequent sessions (two to four, 5-10 minute sessions/day).
Each time you repeat this vary the number of times you fiddle with the paycheck before picking up the training item. When your dog likes this game, slowly move the item towards the part of the body that it will be worn on. Be sure that you know exactly what the dog has to do to earn a paycheck and don't deviate during a session. Also, don't be afraid to stay at the same level for several sessions -until your dog is completely comfortble with the item at that level.
STOP NAGGING YOUR DOG!
Teaching/Learning is a Three-Part Equation
I. The way you let the dog know something is expected.
II. Whatever the dog decides to do (based on instincts, learning, motivation)
III. The consequences that are connected to the actions.
Part-I THE CLUES
Usually people focus on the first part -humans love to give verbal instructions (commands). This part of the equation is really the LEAST IMPORTANT PART of teaching an animal to DO SOMETHING. Furthermore it is the LAST part I worry about when training a new dog or teaching a dog that a new situation requires a previously known behavior.
Part-II THE OPTIONS
Dogs that are trained with force/aversion often get stressed out during the second part of the equation. Stress is NOT conducive to relationships or learning. In Aversive training the risks for getting answer wrong can be high and/or the motivation to give an alternate answer to great to avoid putting the dog in a double bind (I really need to pee, but if I do I might get punished).
In contrast dogs trained systematically with rewards are encouraged to try stuff and praised & rewarded at first for: Good-Attempts, Better-Answers, Correct Responses. The consequences for mistakes are "bummers" they don't get access and/or loose a reward, but they are never given aversive treatments for failing.
Part-III CONSEQUENCES ARE CRITICAL!!!!
This is **THE MOST** important part of training any lasting behaviors. Sadly most people never think about it, they just keep repeating commands to their dog. Consequences are where it is at.
Whenever I ask something of a dog, I already know in my mind three questions.
1) what will I give them if they do it right
2) What will they loose if they give the wrong answer
3) How will I know they don't know they don't know the answer and need a hint for training to stay fun and successful.
YOUR HOMEWORK...
Teach your dog to offer good options & give consequences.
For the next 3 weeks, whenever you are going to leave with your dog through a door... Leash your dog and get your stuff. Put your hand on the door knob, but don't open it. SAY NOTHING!!!!
Week-1: Wait. Do & Say nothing. Ignore your dog. As soon as your dog sits, Say "AWESOME!" and open the door. Let the door do through the door however they want as long as they are on-leash and safe.
How long does it take before your dog sits as soon as you are at the door?
Week-2: Do everything from above. As soon as your dog sits, open the door SLOWLY!!! If your dog's butt pops up, close the door. Again, SAY NOTHING. If your dog re-sits, open the door slowly. If the butt-pops up, close the door. Repeat. If you get the door open 6" and your dog's butt is still on the ground... Say, AWESOME! and open the door allowing your dog Out!
Week-3: Everything from above, but go for door open 12"... Door open 18"... Door open 6" & 30 seconds... Door open 12" and 30 seconds... Door open all the way, 5 seconds... Door open all the way, 30 seconds.
NEVER SAY A THING! Just close the door (preventing access to outside/walks/play) if the dog's butt moves from a sit BEFORE your can say AWESOME!
