Is leash aggression the owners fault?
When dogs fight with other dogs on leash is the owners lack of confidence the problem?
Hardly! Owners can and should NOT be blamed for being nervous when handling their leash-reactive dogs.
It goes without saying that if you have seen your dog bark, lunge, or snap at another dog when on leash that you will anticipate more bad behavior. The anticipated unpleasantness makes most people nervous.
Still, my clients are often astonished that the dogs behave better when I am handling the leash.
When I am called to consult with a client whose dog routinely behaves badly on leash towards other dogs, a common question is: Have they (the owners) been transmitting their fears down the leash to their dogs? From this my clients often surmise that it must be my calm, confident demeanor that gives me the edge when handling feisty dogs. I would argue otherwise for several reasons.
Reason #1 When meeting new clients and handling a new dog for the first time I am absolutely NOT CALM.
I am always nervous when meeting new clients and handling new dogs. I might hide my fears and doubts well from my clients, but I am sure that if you were to put me to the test you would find that my heart rate is elevated, my mouth is dry and I my hands are sweaty.
Reason #2 It is more scientific to rule out other, simpler explanations first.
The answer to how well a dog can detect and to what degree they react to fear has not been sufficiently studied. however, the mechanism responsible for self-preservation called Fight or Flight is very well understood and is the key to helping many of my clients navigate on-leash encounters between their dogs and other dogs.
Reason #3 I have a very good success rate with teaching my clients new skills that improve the situation despite their nervousness at trying something new and their fears that they won't do well and/or that their dog is beyond help.
Imagine if you were taking tennis lessons and your instructor simply coached you by saying, "You need to swing with more power and accuracy." While this may be true, it won't help you KNOW HOW TO DO THESE THINGS!
A good instructor/coach/teacher is always able to break things down into specific tasks that a student can practice in order to obtain better results in overall performance. Telling someone that they are doing poorly or that they need to be, or do things better is NOT an educational technique.
My personal results with the aforementioned bad-coaching technique was a frustration-induced, "more powerful" but drastically, LESS accurate swing.
So what is the CONNECTION between the LEASH & AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOR?
All animals have an innate protective response. When you are afraid (really, really afraid) your The is commonly referred to as the Fight or Flight Response.
Reactions include:
FREEZE -victims that we would describe as shocked, stunned, catatonic (this may precede other actions).
FLIGHT -a way of creating distance between you and a real or perceived threat.
FIGHT -another way of creating distance (turn the tables and get the scary thing to back off or run away).
The trick is to KEEP THE LEASH REALLY LOOSE & to KEEP MOVING FORWARD at a quickened pace so that your dog does not feel stuck or trapped. This is hard to do when you own body is anticipating a bad encounter, so my clients with badly behaved dogs all tend to slow down and hold their dogs back. This is a recipe for disaster. The slow pace and tension causes the dog to lunge forward aggressively.
Keeping the leash loose is easier said then done when there is a history of things going badly, so here are some hints. Carry your dogs favorite toy or better yet, walk your dog when she is hungry and hold some cheese or some yummy meat in front of her nose as you pass by dogs. Using your best goofy voice and moving quickly helps too. Also, be sure not to punish or correct (jerk the leash) your dog for relapses.
Remember you can't punish away fear!
So fix the fear, and the barking and lunging will disappear.
Bumble-Bees Taste... OUCHY!!!!!
Sometimes your dog's drive to get something... will over-rule an unpleasant consequence.
Today this little Setter (Bird-Dog Extraordinaire) discovered that Bumble-Bees are low-flying, slow-moving birds. She caught one and it bit back, but she kept hunting them, and catching them for the rest of the walk. It would be like if asking you not to reach into hot water for $100 bills. Your hand could be bright red, but you'd probably keep going.
Just another reason why training with motivation is important for you and your dog. Giving consequences (even unpleasant ones) won't always work. Sometimes you need to give your dog access to what they need/want. When safe this is always best, but food and toys can be used as surrogate prey to satisfy a hunting instinct. The BEST way to build a relationship AND train your dog to listen is with rewards.
I will remind myself, OFTEN that My dogs do NOT know better!
Even if they did, it doesn't mean they care.
There is a difference between KNOWING and DOING. I KNOW BETTER than to finish all the food when I am feeling full, but when I'm enjoying a meal out, and its really good I don't always stop -even though I KNOW BETTER! By "know better" what we mean is that we can connect certain actions with consequences.
For humans this cognitive thought process can encompass the passage of time. By continuing to eat, even when I am feeling full I can expect to feel physically uncomfortable later in the evening and possibly regret the next morning when I put on my jeans or head out to the gym. To DO what I KNOW takes motivation and knowledge; just KNOWING does NOT CHANGE behavior.
Another example full of these distinctions is driving. I would hazard that there is a negligible number of drivers that truly DON'T KNOW that they should always wear their seatbelt, drive the speed limit, fully stop at all stop signs, and avoid driving after drinking. I imagine that most of you would agree with me that most people KNOW these things. But the evidence is substantial that our driving behavior reflects something entirely different than our knowledge base.
That is because BEHAVIOR is a function not just of our knowledge, but of our motivation and previous experiences. If you are distracted, tired and in a hurry you might not buckle to go a mile down the street to buy a pizza from the corner store for dinner. Additionally if you have done this before without getting yelled at by a family member or friend, or ticket by a police officer, you might continue this behavior that you know better than doing.
My point is, WHY WOULD WE HOLD DOGS TO A STANDARD WE CAN'T EVEN MEET?
Especially considering that they lack the tools to even come close to our abilities. Dogs DO NOT connect events and consequences that do not happen consecutively. Consequences MUST be immediate for dogs. If your dog ate a hotdog off the ground and later had diarrhea you cannot expect them to"know better" than to do that next time.
Additionally if your dog chews your dirty laundry while you are out and then eats the frozen chicken from the counter the immediate consequences are 1) fun activity -kind of like hunting with digging and tearing 2) tasty meal -also like hunting with searching and leaping and bone crunching.
As a dog-lover, owner, guardian you job is to HELP YOUR DOG learn that certain actions have immediate consequences. You must also find ways to motivate then to choose behaviors that you can accept.
My dogs are motivated to lay on their beds when I eat because they get to lick the plates if they stay on their mats the whole time. Dogs that get up, get told "too-bad" tethered to the bed and do not get to lick plates. They also stay outside the kitchen because dogs that cross the threshold get tethered to their beds. Dogs who lay outside the kitchen get period cookies tossed to them especially dogs who lay quietly).
Reward-based training does NOT mean that dogs never get in trouble...
Punishment can be used to make certain behaviors disappear. By definition a punishment is anything that makes a behavior go down in frequency. Punishments do NOT need to be traumatic, or physically uncomfortable for your dog. Punishments, like time-outs serve as a consequence for naughty behavior without hurting, scaring, or upsetting your dog.
When rewards are given (+) trainers say they are using Positive Reinforcement (R+). Treats, toys, and access are all examples of GIVING REWARDS
When rewards or freedom is taken away (-) trainers are using Negative Punishment (P-). Time-outs, Attention removal, leashing, tethering and games of tug or fetch ending are all examples of HUMANE PUNISHMENTS.
Both R+ and P- are considered humane by the dog. I NEVER hurt dogs that I train. I have never found it necessary! Timing-out a dog is all that is needed to teach them to STOP certain behaviors.
The following are considered "unpleasant" to dogs. Things that hurt may be successful in teaching a dog to STOP certain behaviors. However they have additional risks. Furthermore, Hurting an animal that is AFRAID is NEVER, EVER APPROPRIATE!!!
Positive Punishment does not mean (+) as in GOOD!!!! Positive (+) means ADDED. A Positive Punishment make behavior go down (all punishers drive behavior DOWN) because of something YUCKY ADDED (shock, slap, leash pop). Dogs find P+ unpleasant!
Negative Reinforcement does not mean (-) as in bad!!!! Negative (-) means subtracted. A Negative Reinforcer makes behavior go up (all reinforcers drive behavior UP) because of something YUCKY ENDING (choking stops, ear pinch stops, pinning ends). Dogs find R- unpleasant! They comply with commands taught by R- because if they do not the yucky stuff continues to happen. Only when they sit, stop barking, or lay down does the torture end.
TIMING OUT A DOG
- Mark it! It is important to catch your dog attempting to do something naughty. If you are late, or missed the naughty behavior there is nothing you can do, but admonish yourself. If you do catch your dog in the act, give a big, loud "Too-bad!" or "Uh-oh!"
- Immediately follow the marker with action. Be calm and deliberate. Remember you are trying to bum your dog out, not freak them out!
- Remove your dog from what they were enjoying.
If your dog was getting attention and then jumped on a guest, stop petting the dog. Walk out of the room or lead the dog to a leash that is secured to a wall, door or banister. Clip the dog and walk away. Say as little as possible: "Too-bad." Get dog, clip walk, walk away for 5-10 seconds. Unclip the dog. Repeat if necessary.
If your dog jumps to steal food, mark-it and time-out your dog for 5-10 seconds. Shut your dog in the bathroom, or put the dog on a tie-down
If your dog was naughty while playing off-leash, mark-it and then leash your dog. Leave the park after 3-strikes.
If your puppy nipped while playing, mark it (Ouch!), drop the toy and walk away. End the game after 3-strikes.
If your puppy fails to perform a known command, such as sit, mark it and DO NOT GIVE YOUR DOG A SECOND CHANCE. Put the toy down, or put the treat back in the jar. Even toss the bone into the crate, but shut the dog out so they can't get it.
NEVER PUNISH (even with time-outs) Growling, Snarling or Fighting. These behaviors are likely rooted in fear. Contact a certified trainer who can help you apply Classical Conditioning to fix the underlying fear.
Dogs can be punished for naughty, rude or inappropriate behavior. Punishments do not need to scare, hurt or intimidate your dog. You can punish your dog by REMOVING REWARDS. Removing Rewards is a humane way to communicate to your dog that you were displeased with their behavior and that such behaviors will have consequences.
Consequences change behaviors. Telling your dog, "No" is not a consequence;it is a marker, and unless paired with an action, "No" will mean nothing to your dog. Most dogs respond to harsh words and handling with appeasement gestures (ears back, licking, rolling, cowering). Appeasement gestures are your dogs way of saying, "Please stop." It does NOT mean that they understand why you are upset!
There are several ways to Remove Rewards (humanely punish your dog), but before any punishments are given it is important to make sure that the following have been addressed.
1. Has the dog had ample opportunity to learn what behavior(s) are appropriate?
Punishments only tell a dog how they got it wrong. It is faster and more effective to spend some time teaching your dog what you expect. Your dog will need you to help them get it right. Management tools such as leashes, gates, toys and treats are often helpful.
For example: When I am working with a friendly puppy who jumps on guests, I often set up a gate near the entrance or attach a leash to a nearby banister or door. When the doorbell rings the dog is put on the leash or behind the gate so they can't jump on the guest. When the guest enters the puppy will have the chance to practice sitting for a cookie or toy. If the puppy is too wiggly or excited to sit, then everyone walks away for 5-10 seconds. When we return the puppy is allowed to try again try. This type of system is error-proof. The puppy can't get it WRONG (jump) and the failure to get it RIGHT (sit) is punished by having the guest and owner/guardian leave.
2. Are you certain you know what your dog wants?
Knowing what your dog wants in any given situation is critical. How YOU want to reward your dog is not always WHAT YOUR DOG WANTS. Inadvertently giving your dog what they want when they are naughty is a sure way to create frustration. I have often found that dogs can be rewarded with the strangest things: access to sniffing; permission to tree a squirrel; returning to a favorite spot or person; being let out or into a yard or car; being given more playtime. These are all "Real-Life" Rewards. The trick to using them as rewards is being able to prevent free-access to them so that you can GIVE them when the dog is behaving.
For example: On the way to the dog park your dog might pull. If you are trying to use treats to get your dog to walk next to you, you might or might NOT be successful because what your dog wants is TO GET TO THE PARK! Penalty yards away from the park might be a reward-removal that effectively reduces pulling if your dog is not responding to food rewards for walking nicely.
3. Is your dog scared or upset?
If your dog is growling, snapping, biting, or lunging they may be scared or upset. Although these are dangerous and inappropriate behaviors, punishing fear-based behaviors is NOT a solution. Contact a certified trainer.
For Example: If my dog is chewing a bone and growls at me when I approach, my dog is upset! Growling is a communication that says, "No, I don't want to give up the bone." I do not want to be growled at, but punishing my dog for growling (a reaction, not a planned behavior) will only prove to my dog that he SHOULD be upset when I approach him chewing a bone because I predict a punishment. Classical Conditioning is a better solution.
HOW TO REMOVE REWARDS
1. Prevent access to stuff your dog wants with doors, leashes, gates.
At the front door if my dog pushes his nose into the crack before I am ready to let her out, I shut the door. Only when she is sitting and waiting will the door open, or will she be released "free-dog" to leave. Until then, I keep shutting the door. No yelling, no screaming, no commands --the door just stays shuts.
2. Removing Access to stuff your dog is enjoying.
If you call your dog at the park and they are too busy playing with their dog friends to come to you. Say "Too-Bad!" Then go get your dog, leash them and either clip them to a post, put them in the car, or walk away from the doggie play-party zone.
3. Ending the fun.
If you are playing TUG with your dog and your dog does not drop the toy, then let go of the toy (no fun to tug alone) and walk away. If your dog is rude at the park, say "Too-Bad" and leave.
4. Time-Outs.
If your dog is barking at you while you are on the phone because they want attention you can give a time-out by: 1. walking to the another room and shutting the door (opposite of what dog wanted). 2. You can take the dog and put them in a Time-out space (the former puppy confinement area works well).
If your dog jumps on a guest, you can say, "Too-bad" and clip your dog to a leash which is attached somewhere away from fun stuff/people, or put them behind a gate that creates a no-fun space.
NOTES:
"Too-Bad" is a marker. It must be used at the exact moment your dog commits the offense & you MUST be willing to carry out the Reward-Removal!!!
