1. Crate Training Your Puppy is the fastest way to have a completely house-trained pup.
Taking a puppy out for frequent potty breaks and rewarding the puppy for appropriate elimination is only 1/2 the battle. Crates teach puppies how to hold their bladder until they are outside the "den" and in the correct place.
2. Crate Training keeps your puppy safe.
Puppies can get into anything in a second. Sometimes it is just annoying when they chew things, but sometimes it is really, really dangerous. Wires, small ingestible items (I found a green thumb tack in puppy poop once), and certain foods can be dangerous for puppies.
3. Crate training teaches puppies how to settle down and stay in one spot for a reasonable amount of time.
If they never practice "chilling out" in one location when they are young, they are unlikely to do it later. Of corse they are young so they will need help settling down. Chews, kongs, and other food puzzles are excellent items to give to your pup in a crate.
OTHER THOUGHTS
Puppies can generally hold their bladders for only short periods of time.
A general rule of thumb is: 1 hr for every month of age. A 2-month old puppy will need to be let out of the crate for a potty-break somewhere between 1.5 - 2 hrs.
Do not expect your pup to hold it when they are running around.
A free-roaming pup might pee every 10-30minutes. Puppies will generally hold their bladder if they are in a small, confined space (your crate). At about 10-12 weeks I find that most pups can make it through the night without needing a potty-break, but this does not mean that they can "hold it" or be crated for that long during the day.
If your pup has just peed and pooped then spend time with them in the house.
Supervise them carefully and re-direct them onto their toys if they start to chew on anything inappropriate. After about 30-minutes your 8-10 week old pup will probably be "feeling the urge." At this point you can take them out again or crate them for 1hr. so that they have a chance to practice "holding it" until they are taken to the potty spot again.
This is an email question from a DogTime Blog reader. It is about a Labrador named Lucy who suddenly became aggressive to her owner during training classes.
The owner stated that Lucy does well with heel, sit & down stay, leave-it unless there is a distraction such as a ball. "Lucy... ignores the other toy distractions and only fixates on the balls. Naturally, she struggles with maintaining her focus on me and my commands during this exercise, but we do have moments of success. She will leave it, but still maintains a fixated focus and trembles with excitement."
But Trouble is brewing...
In the email Lucy's owner reported: "This week in training Lucy was so agitated during this exercise that she snapped at me 3 times when I corrected her and snapped at other dogs in class. It is like the training, though having some positive affect, is actually bringing out the worse in my dog."
Lucy's owner is alarmed because, "In her two years, Lucy has never, ever snapped at anyone or any other dog during play or on walks. I have expressed this concern with the trainer, and her feeling is that this behavior was just in there waiting to come out. I am just not sure about that explanation and thought I would share my story with someone else."
I asked Marianne to share more with me about how she is teaching Lucy to LEAVE-IT.
Marianne reported: "We are using a standard slip chain choke collar. I snap and release the collar to correct. On the snap, I say "uh uh" (hard to spell that!), then give the command. For example, to have her ignore a ball or toy, I tell her to "leave it. If she goes for it, I snap and release the collar, say "uh, uh" and repeat "leave it".
"When she reacts correctly, I give verbal praise in a softer, higher tone of voice, such as "good leave it" or "good heel". Frequently, during our training, I stroke her and give her positive verbal feedback...no treats until the end of class."
There are several problems with the way that Marianne is being instructed to teach her dog. I will summarize my concerns and the errors in the training below.
However, I want to be VERY CLEAR about TWO THINGS.
1. Marianne did nothing wrong. She enrolled her dog training class with someone whom she was told was an expert. Dog training is still an unregulated field. Many of us, myself included are looking forward to the day when all trainers will need to be certified and/or licensed. As it is now, anyone can call themselves a trainer. There are a few Certifications Programs in the U.S.
2. The following is NOT MY OPINION. Training is a SCIENCE. This means that there are rules. While I have my own personal standards for "humane training" I am not at this moment referring to HOW you get the job done. I am instead referring to HOW ANIMALS LEARN. A good trainer should have a solid basis in understanding Operant & Classical Conditioning regardless of whether they give out cookies, collar corrections, or both. Without these fundamentals skills they are not prepared to train a dog. Would you go to a doctor that you overheard saying: "Veins, Arteries, whatever; they both do blood stuff!" I didn't think so.
So What Is Going On With Lucy? Is she turning aggressive?
For starters, Lucy's aggression was a trained response. It was unintentional, but it was taught. Specifically Lucy was taught to HATE seeing Tennis balls in class. Lucy was being asked to perform a task that she could not do, and because she was not given any guidance on the correct response (look away from the ball) her training looked like this.
Tennis Balls Appear In Class -------> Lucy is subjected to a barrage of jerks, snaps and chokes.
Punishment is a crude tool and has the potential for causing aggression. In this case, Lucy began to associate the tennis ball distraction with pain. All animals like to avoid pain and at some point will either choose to fight back or flee. As Lucy was on-leash fleeing was not an option.
An even more astonishing is that Lucy was never shown WHAT TO DO. When I want a dog to perform a Leave-it, I like to focus on what that looks like when the dogs gets it right (look away, sit, look at handler). There are countless ways to get something wrong, and generally only a few correct responses. Focussing on the correct response is not just nicer for the dog, but gives faster and eliminates the side-effects (ruined relationship, fearful dog, aggression) of aversive punishments.
What I would have done to train Lucy.
Bounce a Distraction-ball until Lucy notices the ball.
Have Lucy's owner give the Command (say, "Leave-it") the moment Lucy notices the distraction-ball.
Stop bouncing the Distraction-ball (kindergarten level) & Give Lucy a moment to respond on her own, by looking away.
Help Lucy get it right a few times (look away from the ball) by having the handler produce a Hint (squeaky tennis ball).
Praise Lucy at the exact moment that she looks away from the original distraction-ball (even if she is just listening to the hint).
Reward Lucy with something she really, really wanted A BALL!
Repeat this until Lucy looks away from the original Distraction-ball on her own BEFORE the Hint & reward Lucy with both balls and end the lesson. Review later and continue to raise the expectations until the hint is no longer needed and the reward is expected to be random.
Somewhere, somehow it got into peoples heads that if you let your dog sleep on the bed, walk in front of you, eat first, or heaven-forbid taste human food that they would instantly become untrainable, power-hungry, stubborn dogs on covert mission to rule your world?
This is NOT true. Banning dogs from certain areas and/or activities is a nice way to avoid problems (guarding, begging and pulling being at the top of this list), but does not make the dog any more subordinate or the owner anymore dominant.
What do we mean by "Dominant" anyway?
When my clients tell me that there dog is dominant, I always ask, "What do you mean?" For starters there seem to be as many definitions for dominant out there as there are breeds of dogs. DOMINANT is NOT a nice neat word. It has lots of variables -depending on what books you have read, who wrote them and what they were talking about.
Here is an example. If I told you my house was painted blue, you might picture your standard color wheel, primary color blue. But, I could mean light blue, or bluish-gray, my house might even be what some people call deep turquoise. If you work as a designer or in a paint store, and you wanted to know what color blue I was talking about you might ask me for a reference # from a color-chart, show me some samples, have me pick a specific color and then mix the paint so that I got exactly what I picked (not your version of my color).
In addition to having numerous definitions, the word DOMINANT seems to be used the way my grandma used slang around my friends. It did NOT come off as intended -she did not appear younger or cooler.
When interviewing clients I am frequently told that the problem is their dog's DOMINANCE. So I inquire more.... What do you mean by that? Can you tell me more about what the dog is doing? And then its the old dictionary stumbling on itself routine:
Client: "Well he's just being dominant."
Trainer: "Really, What is he doing?"
Client: "Well he's not submissive?"
Trainer: "Hmmm... I'm not sure what you mean. What would you like him to do?"
Client: "I don't want him being dominant."
Trainer: "OK, well tell me more about a time when your dog was dominant."
Client: The other day he was on the couch."
Trainer: Do you think he was dominating the couch?"
Client: Well he wouldn't get off when I told him DOWN."
Trainer: "Oh, would you like to teach your dog an OFF-command, in addition to the command for LIE-DOWN?"
The Bottom Line
If you don't want dog hair in your bed, make your dog sleep somewhere else. If you don't care, then by all means don't worry about it! There is nothing wrong with letting your dog sleep on your bed.
If you don't want to be pulled on walks then buy a humane anti-pull harness or halter. If your dog is not pulling, then who cares where they walk, front, left, right, behind -anywhere you let them walk is fine! If they keep crossing in front of you and you find it annoying than TEACH them not to do that. They are NOT doing it to CONTROL YOU! They are doing it, because it works for them and they don't know better.
And eating first... REALLY? I don't get this one at all, my dogs eat ALL THEIR MEALS FROM KONGS! And they also get to lick plates, but I guess that since I don't want them licking the plate while I am eating I do usually finish my food first.
Dear Kelley,
I pray you can help me. Last year I rescued a dog, and myself + my family showered her with love. She had had a very distressing past history, this reinforced to us when she bit my Mother In Law on her third day with us. They were very serious bites and our vet said we had no option but to put her down as she had a high risk of re-offending.
We, as a family, found this incredibly difficult but had no choice. She was a beautiful 2 yr old collie and it was so heartbreaking. We recently re-homed a 6-month old German Shepherd who is a real sweetheart.
However we have just realized that our 12 yr old daughter is still traumatized by the incident with my Mother In Law (which she witnessed).
Krya jumped up to lick her and she had a panic attack. My question to you is "Is it better to put a muzzle on a dog we all love or let her move to a home where she does not have that restraint? She would get plenty of stimulation with us, walks beside a canal for 2 hrs a day, hill walking/climbing regularly with loads of love + attention. Please let me know which outcome would be better for Kyra as it is her welfare that is at the forefront of our dilemma.
Kind regards, Linda
Facts & Summary:
- "Kyra" is your new, 6-mo. old German Shepherd Dog.
- Your daughter, age 12, was recently witness to a severe bite inflicted by a different dog to a family member.
- The dog who bit was a 3-day, newly adopted, 2-yr old Collie.
- The Collie was euthanized for aggression as recommended by your vet.
- Although the new dog is friendly, she is rambunctious and untrained.
- Your daughter is having panic attacks whenever the dog jumps up on her, licks her or does both.
QUESTION:
Should you use a a muzzle on the new dog, so that your daughter will not have to worry about being bitten. Or, is this unfair to the dog?
First, let me say that if your daughters fear is severe, or getting worse, you may want to seek help from a mental health professional.
It is entirely normal to be afraid of large animals with big teeth! But it sounds as if you are describing a new change in your daughter that is drastically different because of a specific event.
Given the bite your daughter witnessed and the events that followed, I am not surprised that your daughter is having a difficult time bonding with your new dog.
If you can't manage the access the two have to each other with gates, crates, and tie-downs while still providing excellent opportunities for mental and physical exercise for the dog, then you may want to re-home the GSD.
If you are able to find professional help for your daughter and the prognosis is good, then it might be possible to temporarily manage the situation and work through the issue.
Having worked as a humane educator I do have some experience working with social workers and psychologists in controlled settings with dogs and children who were fearful of, or had had a traumatic experience with an aggressive dog. It takes time to recover from a bad experience and steady, slow progress is best.
From a dog-behavior perspective, "wiggly" & "overly-friendly" are encouraging terms. They mean that the dog is not afraid (potential fear-aggression), just untrained. Untrained is fixable with patience and a little work. The dog's temperament aside, the human needs to be comfortable too and wiggly/friendly can be just too much for a fearful person.
When working with people who are afraid of dogs, I have never started with a puppy! They are TOO-WIGGLY! A friendly, well-trained adult dog who listens well to commands is ideal. So, don't peg your daughters recovery on your puppy. Consider training the puppy and getting your daughter (at her comfort level) interacting with older, well-behaved, friendly dogs.
Regarding your specific question, I would NOT recommend muzzling the dog.
I only use muzzles when the is a clear indication that a bite is likely and/or a previously known history of the dog having bitten or fought.
If this is a concern (that the GSD may have some tendency to bite or nip) than it may be best to re-home the dog and focus on your daughter's feelings and concerns regarding dogs.
If the dog is not currently biting or showing signs of being fearful or aggressive, then it is your daughter whom you need to turn your energy.
Muzzling the dog will not fix your daughter's fear, but could give her a false sense of security.
Furthermore, your 6-month old pup will miss out on the opportunity she needs to learn what (toys) she is allowed to put her mouth on and when (never), she may place (even gently) her mouth on people.
If the dog is NOT biting or puppy-nipping then by all means, please use other management devices such as crates, pens or tie-downs to prevent the dog from jumping all over your daughter.
This is just good-sense for anyone with a rude, jumpy pup.
Preventing the dog from practicing the bad behavior is critical to training.
Finally, please enroll in a Reward-Based (no choke/prong collars) Training Class.
Don't forget to include your daughter in training the dog. The class may be overwhelming, lots of young, un-trained dogs, but your daughter could be included in the homework exercises.
In the beginning this may mean that someone else holds the leash and controls the dog from a distance, or that your daughter gives the commands or food-rewards.
Hi Kelley,
I am interested in your ideas and teaches learning about your knowledge on training tips for dogs. I have german shepherd solid black and he is now 5 mos. old. I have a very big problem on him; he eats his feces whenever he urg's his butt he turned around, smell it and grab!! ew!. What i always did is i keep on eye with him whenever he had a heavy play after sometime when turned around by itself then it will be. When he started to smell it i will immediately shouted to him "NO" then he leave and play again. Please help, what should i do? because when i am not around he still eat his feces.
Jo-ann G. Neri
Philippines
Dear Jo-ann,
I know that Poop Eating (Coprophagia) is a disgusting behavior, but it is unlikely to MAKE your dog sick, so at least you can let that worry go. It will be easier for you and your dog if you remain calm during training -even if he relapses. The causes of Coprophagia are not fully understood. However, veterinarians, behaviorists and trainers generally agree that it is a behavioral problem. On the other side of the coin, there are a handful illnesses that can cause coprophagia (poop eating), but they generally present with more symptoms, including diarrhea. To be on the safe-side, take your dog to the vet, especially if your dog has diarrhea and or has not been to the vet for vaccinations.
Once you know your dog is healthy, the following training plan should help.
1. Know that STRESS is the enemy. Your dog is very young and he may still be nervous, or stressed out about going to the bathroom. Stress is the cause of many undesirable canine behaviors. Believe it or not, there is a lot that can stress a 5-month old a puppy. They are learning to hold their bladder and bowels, as opposed to just going whenever they feel like it. They are also still in the process of learning when and where they may go to the bathroom. I know your shepherd is getting big, but he is still a baby. Potty-training a pup can be frustrating, but avoid punishing mistakes. Instead tighten up on management and forgive mistakes.
2. Do NOT let GOOD BEHAVIOR go unnoticed. Reward your dog every time he goes to the bathroom in the appropriate place. As soon as your dog has finished PEEING or POOPING, use your best happy voice to praise him. Then feed him a tasty treat. Toss a second treat away from the poop to distract your dog while you remove the poop with a scoop or bag. If you have already been doing this, continue and make sure that you do it for BOTH pees and poops. I would skip shouting "No!" this could cause more stress. Just wiggle the dog treat and praise your dog, so that his attention is on you and he leaves the poop alone.
3. CLEAN UP! Always join your dog on potty walks so that you can reward your dog and scoop the poop immediately.
4. INCREASE EXERCISE & MENTAL STIMULATION. Make sure that your dog is getting plenty of vigorous exercise each day. A 5-month old Shepherd could probably use at least two 1-hour play sessions each day. This means running, fetching, hiking, playing with dogs. More is always better. And, when you leave your dog alone, make sure that your dog has plenty of things to CHEW. Bones and Kongs are best.
5. Try adding a supplement to your dog's food so that the poop will be unappealing to your dog. There are several products, listed below, but I have also heard various recommendations on adding enzymes to your dog's food. The theory is that if poop-eating is caused by under-digestion (eat the poop to give a second go at getting all the nutrients), then the enzymes help the food become more digestible.
At this point, regardless of the CAUSE, there is also a BAD HABIT. I recommend trying the supplements IN ADDITION to doing the behavior modification work. If you are only going to do one, try the behavior stuff first (its free), then buy a supplement if there is no change in behavior after 3-weeks.
- Forbid (TM)(R)
- Deter (TM)(R)
- Papaya, Fig or Pinneaple (These food contain enzymes that break down amino acids).
- Meat Tenderizer (from a grocery store) contains enzymes that break down protein.
