The good news... It is NOT Dominance!
The EVEN BETTER NEWS...
IT'S SEX!
That's RIGHT. Humping (despite the obvious implications -that it probably feels good) is S. E. X.
Sex! Sex! Sex! Sex! Did you know that dogs, like most creatures, need to have sex to reproduce?
Reproduction is just one of those things that pops out in play. Play-time is just a rehearsal stage for all of life's survival skills.
During play-time your dog will:
- Play-fight
- Play-hunt
- Play-kill
- Play-mate
For more on Humping >>>> Read my new favorite book, Oh Behave! by Jean Donaldson, author and director of The SF SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers.
Dogs are generally not on their best behavior when the leash is tight. I frequently see tense situations turn into nasty situations by owners whose intensions are clearly good, but misguided. While it is completely understandable and natural for a handler to pull a dog back from a potentially stressful situation, the unfortunate reality is that pulling a dog back encourages them to lunge forward aggressively.
If your dog is a puller and you can't keep the leash loose, try a humane, no-pull harness or head-halter.
If your dog is almost always lunging forward at people or dogs while barking, growling or snapping, by all means, PLEASE contact a Certified Dog Trainer who understands and uses Reward Based Training Techniques and Classical Conditioning to treat fear & aggression. Truely fear-aggressive dogs may need several to many sessions to improve.
Some dogs are naughty, but NOT FEARFUL. These dogs are usually lunging because they feel stuck or are anticipating an uncomfortable amount of tension on a leash, or worse yet, a snap or jerk of the leash. Trainers sometimes look like miracle workers when they take control of the leash and a previously barking, lunging dog turns into a polite, playful dog. This is usually the case with NON-FEARFUL dogs who respond well to what is often called the JOLLY-ROUTINE.
If your dog is generally playful--especially when off-leash, but lunges or growls sometimes at dogs when ON-LEASH, try the following (we call it the Jolly Routine):
To keep the leash loose, try calling your dog when they see a dog. Then walk backwards. Don't wait for your dog, just start taking steps backwards. You will still be facing the dog your dog sees, but you are moving backwards.
When your dog's body finally turns to face you, praise with a cheery, goofy voice.
Keep praising your dog -BE JOLLY and start moving forward.
Go quickly and walk PAST the dog, still being JOLLY. Stop only once you are about a foot past the dog's tail. Pause and then KEEP GOING! Praise and reward your dog--food is BEST.
It may take your dog a few tries before they learn the new system. If they have a slip-up, don't yell anything naughty at the dog, IGNORE IT. If things are not better in 1-week, contact a trainer
This is a common problem. Check out my class entirely dedicated to helping people with LEASH MONSTERS!
Dog Fights are scary and generally unpleasant for the people, but they are also scary and unpleasant for your dogs.
Most dog fights are loud and the dogs show lots of teeth and appear to use their teeth dangerously. Sometimes both dogs are involved equally. Other times it appears that one dog is the aggressor.
In general dog fights do not occur out of the blue; there are usually WARNING SIGNS that a fight is about to start.
Warnings can include the following:
>> One or both dogs are stiff during a greeting. Remember, tail wagging is NOT always friendly.
>> Dog-A is obviously avoiding the interaction and the other Dog-B insists on sniffing or playing (Dog-B does not "read" the other dog).
>> One dog greets another by sniffing/staring at the face/muzzle first (no butt sniffing ritual).
>> One dog assumes a T-position over the other dog and stands stiffly and fails to follow it with a play-signal (bow, paw, hip).
>> Dog-A gives Dog-B a warning signal to back-off and Dog-B does not read it or ignores it. Example: Dog-A has a stick and Dog-B walks over. Dog-A grabs stick and goes away (avoidance). Dog-B approaches again and Dog-A lowers head, stiffens and glares at Dog-B (hard-eye).
WAYS TO PREVENT & END FIGHTS
Learn to look for warning signs.
I generally find that a "happy-voice" turns this situation around faster & with more results that a loud, your-in-trouble voice. If the situation is already tense, try adding in some sweetness. A dog's association with the "goofy-cookie/play" voice is often enough to diffuse a situation for a few minutes. This allows you to separate the dogs.
If fights are happening frequently or escalating in intensity, get a certified trainer to help you diagnose the aggression.
