Go Dog Training

There are several LEASH TRICKS that I teach all dogs.  Mostly this is to ease my own frustration; I am lazy about leashes.  I want the dog to think about and work at keeping the leash out of trouble.

These are my TOP LEASH-SKILL ANNOYANCES. 

• Stepping over the leash...
• Winding around the wrong side of a pole...
• Cutting from side to side & stalling to sniff...

I'm not unreasonable, I realize that it is normal dog behavior.  In fact, I expected that most green dogs will do these things.  This doesn't mean that you can't change their behavior.  Before you expect your dog to change their behavior, you must put some time into teaching them new behaviors.  These new behaviors will eventually replace the old behaviors.

MY FIRST & FAVORITE Leash Trick, "FIX-IT!"

I use FIX-IT in situations where dogs step over the leash.  Puppies do this a lot and get the leash stuck in their paw-pit.  Once its stuck under their leg, they tend to either stall or have a temper tantrum and chew at the leash.  This is understandable, but it can lead to a chain of attention-seeking behaviors that later become a problem.

I prefer teaching FIX-IT on my terms.  By this I mean that a start off each walk deliberately placing the leash under one paw and then practice the FIX-IT with lots of help and rewards.  Then if the leash gets stuck on the walk, we practice again.

How To Teach "FIX-IT"

WHAT YOU NEED:

• A 5-6' leather or nylon leash.

• 15-20 pieces of a yummy treat such as cheese, chicken, or soft dog treats.

• A flat surface.

• A clicker (optional)

  
  
  

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Clip a  5-6' leash on your pups FLAT BUCKLE/CLIP COLLAR.
2. Allow the leash to drag on the ground so that your pup steps over it (avoid handling your pups paws!)
3. Gently lift the leash.  Your pups paw should be relaxed and you should be able to raise and lower the paw several times.
4. If the leash gets stuck in the armpit, you are using too much tension; give your leash more slack.
5. If your puppy chews the leash, you are using too much tension; give your leash more slack.
6. If your pup does any lifting of the paw on her own, Praise (or, click) & Feed (regardless of where the leash is).
7. Continue to gentle lift and lower the leash which will raise your dogs paw.  Do this slowly.
8. Praise (click) & Feed all attempts by the pup to lift their own leg.
9. As soon as the leash is unstuck, JACKPOT* (toss 5-10 treats) to your dog.
10. Continue this for 5-10 minutes at the beginning of all walks for about 1-week.
11. You will soon notice that your pup quickly and easily raises her paw when the leash gets stuck.
12. When you are certain that your pup "knows" what he is doing, then you can say, "FIX-IT"
13. When you add the command, only Praise & Treat the dog if you use the command.  Occasionally omit the command, wait for your dog to fix the leash and then move on without Praising & Treating  --this will motivate your dog to do it faster when you say "FIX-IT."

*Jackpot your dog, even if you think it was an accident that the leash become untuck.  In the beginning your dog does not need to have intentionally done the job.

Unless you plan on competing with your dog in obedience training, you do NOT need a formal HEEL.

HEEL -A position in obedience training where the dog holds his/her position at the left leg on the handler with the dogs nose roughly at the same plane as the handlers outside pant seam.  This position is maintained by the dog regardless of if or how the handler moves (forward, backward, turning, stopping).

I am amazed by the number of clients who seem to feel that they MUST forcefully hold their dog on a tight, short leash while walking.  This is NOT needed.

If fact, it tends to cause problems for the handler and the dog.  A tight leash can actually cause a dog to behave aggressively.  

It is always better to walk a dog on a loose leash.  Training the dog to keep the leash loose is the first and most important step towards enjoying a walk with your dog.

TEACHING LOOSE-LEASH WALKING  -kindergarden level

1.  Choose a collar or harness that does not pull on a dog's neck or back.  

Most flat-collars are good for keeping tags on your dog, but they are not good for walking dogs on leash.  

Pinch and Prong-collars are designed to hurt the dog for making mistakes (pulling), but hurting the dog can have serious side-effects such as increased aggression.  There are many reasons that these collars should never be used, but the best reason is that you can accomplish the same goal faster and more effectively without them.  

Back-clipping harnesses are a great way to reduce pressure on a dogs neck and throat, but they help a dog pull and are useless for teaching a dog to walk nicely on leash.  

****There are two great options for helping your dog walk nicely (no pulling on leash).  Front-clipping harnesses are becoming very popular and dogs tend to adjust to them quickly.  These are fantastic walking harnesses and they do not hurt the dog.  Another option is to use a head-collar.  

For more on these devices, CLICK HERE.

2.  Set time aside for training.  

Hold your dog's leash in your right hand.  If your dog is on your left this will mean that the leash crosses in front of your body -this is OK.

Hold some tasty treats in your left hand near your dogs nose.

Keep your dog interested in the treats, but do not let your dog eat them.

If your dog jumps for the treats or tries to nibble your hand.  Pull your hand away and put it behind your back.  

If your dog has all 4 paws on the ground and is walking nicely next to you, PRAISE your dog THEN give them one of the treats from your hand.

Lately there seems to be an excessive number of people "totally freaked out" that they have/will lose all control of their dog's behavior because they can't seem to get the dog to walk behind them and/or the dog is "not allowing them" through doors first.

1)  Dogs do not have a covert agenda!  The are just faster than us, and unless they have a good reason to slow down (training) they are going to pull and push.

2) First is not always best!  If you were testing a new type of parachute --would you really want to be the first one out the plane???

3) Like all things you want your dog to do, you must take time to teach them, you can't simply expect a new behavior.

What I care about when walking my dogs.

1) No one pulls my arm out.  As long as the leash is loose, with some slack and my hands and arms are comfortable, I don't care if the dog is in front, next to, or behind me.  >>>READ HERE FOR MORE ON PULLING<<<

2) If I call a dog's name, they stop and look at me.  This is hugely helpful in a variety of situations, but takes practice to get in distracting environments (another dog barking).

3)  If I say, "Leave-it" my dog lifts his or her head off what they are sniffing or turns their face away from what they are staring at and we move on down the path.

That said, if you want to teach your dog to walk in a certain position, next to you; or, if you would prefer, for the safety of your dog, to go through doors first, you can TEACH THESE BEHAVIORS.  This means you will need to consider:

1) How will you show your dog what you want?

2) What you will give your dog if they are getting it right, or close to right (especially in the beginning).  Think: What does my dog want?

3) What will you take away, or not give your dog if they make a mistake.  Think: How can you make your dog's brain say, "That didn't work."

Remember!!!!!!!!!!!!!

TEACHING is about letting the dog TRY STUFF and then gently giving feedback:  

YAY! That works (give dog something:  treat, toy, access).

OOOPS!  That won't work (take something away: deny access, remove from fun, restrict freedom, ignore).

Teaching is NOT about getting it right!  Teaching is about letting the dog TRY and letting the dog WIN and FAIL, so that they can learn the consequences and make their own decisions.  

Dogs are generally not on their best behavior when the leash is tight.  I frequently see tense situations turn into nasty situations by owners whose intensions are clearly good, but misguided.  While it is completely understandable and natural for a handler to pull a dog back from a potentially stressful situation, the unfortunate reality is that pulling a dog back encourages them to lunge forward aggressively.

If your dog is a puller and you can't keep the leash loose, try a humane, no-pull harness or head-halter.

If your dog is almost always lunging forward at people or dogs while barking, growling or snapping, by all means, PLEASE contact a Certified Dog Trainer who understands and uses Reward Based Training Techniques and Classical Conditioning to treat fear & aggression.  Truely fear-aggressive dogs may need several to many sessions to improve.

Some dogs are naughty, but NOT FEARFUL.  These dogs are usually lunging because they feel stuck or are anticipating an uncomfortable amount of tension on a leash, or worse yet, a snap or jerk of the leash.  Trainers sometimes look like miracle workers when they take control of the leash and a previously barking, lunging dog turns into a polite, playful dog.  This is usually the case with NON-FEARFUL dogs who respond well to what is often called the JOLLY-ROUTINE.

If your dog is generally playful--especially when off-leash, but lunges or growls sometimes at dogs when ON-LEASH, try the following (we call it the Jolly Routine):

To keep the leash loose, try calling your dog when they see a dog.  Then walk backwards.  Don't wait for your dog, just start taking steps backwards.  You will still be facing the dog your dog sees,  but you are moving backwards.  

When your dog's body finally turns to face you, praise with a cheery, goofy voice.  

Keep praising your dog -BE JOLLY and start moving forward.  

Go quickly and walk PAST the dog, still being JOLLY.  Stop only once you are about a foot past the dog's tail.  Pause and then KEEP GOING!  Praise and reward your dog--food is BEST.

It may take your dog a few tries before they learn the new system.  If they have a slip-up, don't yell anything naughty at the dog, IGNORE IT.  If things are not better in 1-week, contact a trainer

This is a common problem.  Check out my class entirely dedicated to helping people with LEASH MONSTERS!