There are several LEASH TRICKS that I teach all dogs. Mostly this is to ease my own frustration; I am lazy about leashes. I want the dog to think about and work at keeping the leash out of trouble.
These are my TOP LEASH-SKILL ANNOYANCES.
- Stepping over the leash...
- Winding around the wrong side of a pole...
- Cutting from side to side & stalling to sniff...
I'm not unreasonable, I realize that it is normal dog behavior. In fact, I expected that most green dogs will do these things. This doesn't mean that you can't change their behavior. Before you expect your dog to change their behavior, you must put some time into teaching them new behaviors. These new behaviors will eventually replace the old behaviors.
MY FIRST & FAVORITE Leash Trick, "FIX-IT!"
I use FIX-IT in situations where dogs step over the leash. Puppies do this a lot and get the leash stuck in their paw-pit. Once its stuck under their leg, they tend to either stall or have a temper tantrum and chew at the leash. This is understandable, but it can lead to a chain of attention-seeking behaviors that later become a problem.
I prefer teaching FIX-IT on my terms. By this I mean that a start off each walk deliberately placing the leash under one paw and then practice the FIX-IT with lots of help and rewards. Then if the leash gets stuck on the walk, we practice again.
How To Teach "FIX-IT"
WHAT YOU NEED:
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A 5-6' leather or nylon leash.
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15-20 pieces of a yummy treat such as cheese, chicken, or soft dog treats.
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A flat surface.
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A clicker (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Clip a 5-6' leash on your pups FLAT BUCKLE/CLIP COLLAR.
- Allow the leash to drag on the ground so that your pup steps over it (avoid handling your pups paws!)
- Gently lift the leash. Your pups paw should be relaxed and you should be able to raise and lower the paw several times.
- If the leash gets stuck in the armpit, you are using too much tension; give your leash more slack.
- If your puppy chews the leash, you are using too much tension; give your leash more slack.
- If your pup does any lifting of the paw on her own, Praise (or, click) & Feed (regardless of where the leash is).
- Continue to gentle lift and lower the leash which will raise your dogs paw. Do this slowly.
- Praise (click) & Feed all attempts by the pup to lift their own leg.
- As soon as the leash is unstuck, JACKPOT* (toss 5-10 treats) to your dog.
- Continue this for 5-10 minutes at the beginning of all walks for about 1-week.
- You will soon notice that your pup quickly and easily raises her paw when the leash gets stuck.
- When you are certain that your pup "knows" what he is doing, then you can say, "FIX-IT"
- When you add the command, only Praise & Treat the dog if you use the command. Occasionally omit the command, wait for your dog to fix the leash and then move on without Praising & Treating --this will motivate your dog to do it faster when you say "FIX-IT."
*Jackpot your dog, even if you think it was an accident that the leash become untuck. In the beginning your dog does not need to have intentionally done the job.
A normal, healthy pup will want to bite and chew--on EVERYTHING!
This means your pup will try biting you!
RELAX! Your puppy is NOT aggressive.
Your puppy is not trying to dominate you.
Your puppy is not being naughty.
Your puppy is just being a puppy!
This does not mean that you should encourage biting. Furthermore, this does not mean you should ignore your puppy's inappropriate biting. It is important to address biting BEFORE it becomes a problem!
Some Background...
Puppies have very sharp, needle-shaped teeth. When a puppy bites, these teeth hurt, a lot! This is good. Puppies lack adult-dog, jaw strength. If they didn't have such sharp teeth, it would be hard for them to realize that they are capable of hurting others with their teeth.
Puppies need to learn BITE INHIBITION. This is a term that is used by veterinarians, trainers, and behaviorists to describe how hard a dog bites down when they place their mouth and jaws on a person or dog. Think of your dog's teeth like the brakes in your car. You can press the brakes gently or slam on them. At some point when you are driving you will need to brake, but how you brake depends on lots of factors... Is there a threat, are you going slow or fast, have you been paying attention, etc...
At some point in your dog's life they are likely to use their teeth in a fight, or to protect themselves or their stuff. When this happens you want them to inhibit themselves and use the minimal tooth & jaw pressure needed to make their point.
When Your Puppy Puts Their Teeth on Your Skin...
I allow gentle mouthing until pups are about 3-4 months old (they start getting adult teeth).
This is because I want my puppy to practice using their jaws gently. When a pup bites too hard, I say "OUCH!" in a calm, but clear voice. Then I walk away from my pup. I do not shove, grab, hit, or otherwise try to give the puppy a punishment. Don't hold their mouth shut or yell at them. The punishment is that you ignore them.
All puppies need SOME rough-play time. If my pup is too worked-up to use their jaws calmly, I bring a toy into the situation. They are allowed to be rough, bite, shake and growl at the toy. BUT... If they miss the toy and bite me by mistake, I say, "OUCH!" and walk away for 10-15 seconds. They get three attempts. On the third mistake, I stop playing with them for at least 20 minutes.
Once a pup is 3-4 months, I no longer allow teeth on skin. Should a pup make a mistake, I do the following:
1) On the first mistake, I re-direct them to a toy.
2) On the second mistake, they get an "OUCH!" and ignored.
3) On the third mistake, they get put in a confinement area until they calm down.
FINAL NOTE!
Give your puppy LOTS of toys, bones, and chews!!!
Teach your dog TUG!
>>>READ MORE ON TUG, CLICK HERE.
A well adjusted puppy is enthusiastic about playing.
They are young, rambunctious and sometimes over-eager to engage other dogs in play. While it is not wrong to ask another dog to play, trouble can arise when they don't notice that the other dog is not interested in playing.
Young, playful pups are often too young to have learned how to read the intention-signals of other dogs, they sometimes get corrected.
Corrections from an older dog can be a learning experience, but owners need to protect their pups from getting harsh corrections. To minimize the risk to your pup make sure that they have LOTS and lots of playtime with puppies their own age.
Puppy classes are a great place to have your pup play with other puppies.
A good puppy class will be filled with ONLY other puppies of a similar age. Puppy play-time will cushion your pup's bank of experiences. Puppy-to-puppy play will likely be appropriate and fun and pad your pup from associating play with bad things (older, un-playful dogs). Lots of puppy-play will help your puppy associate an eventual correction with their actions or the other dog's body language.
When playing with older dogs, a correction is likely.
The older dog should have EXCELLENT play-skills and give LOTS of warnings to the puppy. When the older dog has finally had it and corrects the pup it should be a fast and timely correction. The puppy will likely yelp and it will be over. The older dog should not pin the puppy or keep fighting. There should be NO harm and the pup should shake it off quickly and be back to his/her bouncy self.
A PUPPIES ERROR IN JUDGEMENT
Meet the dogs...
The FOCUSED, OLDER DOG is played by K-9 ANGUS, FEMA Certified Search & Rescue Dog, CA Task Force 3
see videos of Angus @ work -CLICK HERE
The PLAYFUL & OVERENTHUSIASTIC PUPPY is played by JUPITER, 4 month old, male beagle
Opening Act: A polite invitation to play.
Act -II: Stop ignoring me. Don't you want to play?
Act -III: You can't resist me; I'm right here!
Act -IV: Knock it off pup!
Act V: Pleeeese, play with me.
Final Act: Too-bad, puppy; I warned you.
Second Show: Hey, who are you?
Even A Well-Behaved Dog Is A DOG!
Dogs need to do Dog-Things. Puppies, like children need to do everything and they have short attention spans.
A common behavior concern is chewing! Punishing a dog for being a dog is a sure way to ruin your relationship with your new pup. Dogs need to chew. They should not be punished for being dogs.
Puppies and inexperienced dogs see the whole world is an unexplored chew toy. There are endless places to find new chews and hundreds of ways to sneak a chew. If your dog isn't getting the chew-fun she needs from her toys, your dog will find something new to chew.
My clients are constantly frustrated and overwhelmed when they focus all their energy on catching their dog chewing forbidden items (table legs, tissue, clothes, remote controls, etc...) Make your life easier; make your puppies day. Put most of your energy into creating chew options, not just limiting them. Make toys and chew puzzles fun and exciting for your dog.
Then watch your dog! I spend countless hours just watching my dogs enjoy their chew-time. Their chewing pleasure is a site to behold. You too can learn to marvel at their canine abilities to chew, nibble, rip and dissect.
Just pick the items they chew on for them and make them worth their while so they won't want to waste time experimenting for better options. Then take some time to appreciate what they liked most, what they were good at chewing and how they can lull themselves into a near meditative state on the perfect chew.
Before your puppy reaches 4-months of age they should be comfortable having food, toys, and food items (bones, kongs, bowls) taken away. This training is most successful when started early. Ideally the puppy’s owner’s/guardian’s will encourage a wide variety of people to participate in these exercises daily until the puppy is 6-months to 1-year of age.
Sleep-Startle: Letting your dog sleep on the couch, bed, or chairs does not make your dog a location-guarder. Dog's who are genetically or behaviorally prone to guarding can and will learn to guard whatever they have access to, such as their dog bed. Preventing guarding is not possible using management only (i.e. never letting your dog on the couch).
I am especially prone to do these exercises with dog breeds that sleep deeply and get dug-into locations. Hounds are notorious for liking warm, snugly locations and for disliking being disturbed while sleeping. To prevent your dog from guarding locations you will need to complete several exercises including teaching your dog to LOVE being startled awake.
- Wait until your dog is sleeping soundly.
- Toss a pillow, sock, or other soft object at your dog's body.
- As soon as it hits your dog, cheer wildly.
- While cheering begin making your way to the cookie jar.
- Give your dog (or toss a treat if they did not move). Make sure the treat is something really, really special. I suggest dried meat, cheese, or a very, very large tasty dog treat that is soft and stinky.
- Repeat this often until your dog practically wags his tail and charges to the cookie jar once startled awake.
- Try loud noises next.
- Try petting your dog while it sleeps.
- Never punish growling. If your dog ever growls, stiffens, snarls, or stares at you, contact a trainer immediately.
Bowl-Approach: Teach your dog that people, hands, and faces (especially if you have kids) that approach their bowl are a good thing! Dogs GUARD valuable things. All dogs are natural guarders unless they have been deliberately bred to have less guarding. Even with careful breeding genetic variations are a natural occurrence and it would not be impossible for two non-guarding dogs to produce some puppies that have a higher propensity to guard. Punishment a dog for guarding will VERY LIKELY make the guarding worse. Instead, plan ahead and begin some prevention exercises when your puppy is still young.
- When your puppy is eating, approach the food bowl and drop a tasty treat into the bowl.
- Then walk away.
- Repeat 2-3 times during the same meal.
- Repeat this until your dog wags her tail as she sees you approach. This may take 10-20 feedings.
- Make sure your puppy is giving you a loose, wiggly, wag!
- When you are confident that your puppy likes this game, change the rules.
- Approach the bowl and add nothing.
- Approach again, touch your puppy, Feed!
- Approach again, and DO NOT TOUCH your puppy, non food.
- Repeat this every time you feed your puppy, until your pup only gets excited when you pet her.
- Change the rules again. Push your puppy's head away from the bowl, FEED!
- Approach again, but only pet your puppy's back. No Food!
- Approach again, push and feed.
Object-exchange: When your dog has a toy, they should be willing to let you take their toy. Growling is OK in play, but should not be accompanied by a stiff body, hard stare or any snarling (teeth show). One great way to teach your dog to drop an item on request is by playing tug! In addition to playing tug, teach your dog to LOVE having objects taken away.
- When your dog has a toy or bone approach your dog with a treat or another favorite toy.
- Temp your dog with the food or the "live" ball that you have.
- As soon as your dog drops their bone or toy, praise them.
- Reward your dog with a short game of tug or with the food treat immediately.
- Repeat often.
- When your dog catches on to this game, add a command. Drop, Leave, Out are all common names for this command. Say the command then tempt your dog. If they get it right, praise and reward.
- If they do not drop the toy, walk away. Try again.
Bone/Kong Swap: Feeding a dog with a Kong is a great way to make food-time into a energy burner. I like to stuff all of my dogs daily calories into Kongs and to feed several Kongs each day. Kongs are a great way to keep my puppies, busy, quiet and out of trouble. Because the Kong is a valuable toy & a food-delivery device, dogs can become possessive over theirs Kongs. Teach your dog that when you take the Kong, it is worth it!
- While your puppy is eating her kong, take the Kong away.
- Go to your kitchen and add something extra tasty to the top of the Kong -cream cheese, chicken baby food, peanut butter...
- Return the improved Kong to your pup.
Couch-Removal: I like to teach dogs to LOVE being grabbed by the collar. This is especially important for a dogs safety and for good relations in the home. I do allow my dogs on my bed, couch, and other furniture. The only rule is that they must get off if asked and they must tolerate my pushing and pulling them around and out of my way.
- Grab your puppy's collar and lead them 1-2 steps in any direction.
- Praise your pup the entire time.
- Then give your puppy a yummy treat.
- Repeat over and over again.
- Gently nudge your puppy with your feet, praise & treat!
- Say, "Off!" then grab your pup's collar.
- Guide them gently off the couch and praise them.
- Give your dog a treat.
- Never punish your dog if they growl!
- Contact a certified trainer immediately if your puppy growls or snaps at you.
