Go Dog Training

A frequent complaint from clients about their dog is:  

"But he KNOWS better..."

While I am always diplomatic in these situations and even sympathetic, the truth is that this type of thinking sets dogs up for failure.  We not only expect our dogs to be better than dogs; we expect them to be better than humans!

Here is a short list of things that I have done even though, "I know better..."

Roll a stop sign

Bite my nails

Scream at my dog

Pee in a parking lot or public park

Eat cookie dough with raw egg in it

Go to the beach without sunscreen

Drink beer, wine & champagne in the same evening

Use my cell phone while driving

What I would love to say to my clients (if I didn't think it would seem rude, or hurt their feelings) is:  "So, what!"  

Lets say your dog does KNOW BETTER.  Knowing is still just a small part of the equation.  There are other/more important factors.  Even without morals behavior is mitigated by:

Motivators:  Motivation is HUGE.  Even a very moral person might steal or lie if they were starving or under threat.  Motivation is at the core of debates on torture because if sufficiently motivated you can drastically alter a beings "normal" behavior.

Consequences:  The severity of a consequence, or the absence of any consequences CAN matter...but you can't control what is learned..  I got a $300 ticket for not wearing my seatbelt on a 1/4 mile drive to the corner store.  Now I always wear my seat belt in small towns.  I say CAN matter because despite fairly serious hangovers from partying too hard at weddings I continue to drink too much with old friends and I pay the price the next day.

Experience:  There are technically consequences for driving and talking on a cell phone, but my experiences with this have been good.  I have not had an accident, nor have I been ticketed... yet!  

Setting:  Could you explain to an alien from mars why peeing by a tree when camping is OK, but to do so in a public park could result in arrest for public indecency?

So the next time you find yourself thinking: "She knows better..."  

Remind yourself, KNOWING just means that you CAN do something;

it has very little to do with the action you take.  

This is true for humans; this is true for dogs.  

AND, this is why creating good habits with your dog is far, far more important that teaching them to understand your rules, logic and/or potential consequences for not following them.

A normal, healthy pup will want to bite and chew--on EVERYTHING!

This means your pup will try biting you!

RELAX!  Your puppy is NOT aggressive.

Your puppy is not trying to dominate you.  

Your puppy is not being naughty.  

Your puppy is just being a puppy!

This does not mean that you should encourage biting.  Furthermore, this does not mean you should ignore your puppy's inappropriate biting.  It is important to address biting BEFORE it becomes a problem!

Some Background...

Puppies have very sharp, needle-shaped teeth.  When a puppy bites, these teeth hurt, a lot!  This is good.  Puppies lack adult-dog, jaw strength.  If they didn't have such sharp teeth, it would be hard for them to realize that they are capable of hurting others with their teeth.

Puppies need to learn BITE INHIBITION.  This is a term that is used by veterinarians, trainers, and behaviorists to describe how hard a dog bites down when they place their mouth and jaws on a person or dog.  Think of your dog's teeth like the brakes in your car.  You can press the brakes gently or slam on them.  At some point when you are driving you will need to brake, but how you brake depends on lots of factors... Is there a threat, are you going slow or fast, have you been paying attention, etc...

At some point in your dog's life they are likely to use their teeth in a fight, or to protect themselves or their stuff.  When this happens you want them to inhibit themselves and use the minimal tooth & jaw pressure needed to make their point.

When Your Puppy Puts Their Teeth on Your Skin...

I allow gentle mouthing until pups are about 3-4 months old (they start getting adult teeth).  

This is because I want my puppy to practice using their jaws gently.  When a pup bites too hard, I say "OUCH!" in a calm, but clear voice.  Then I walk away from my pup.  I do not shove, grab, hit, or otherwise try to give the puppy a punishment.  Don't hold their mouth shut or yell at them.  The punishment is that you ignore them.

All puppies need SOME rough-play time.  If my pup is too worked-up to use their jaws calmly, I bring a toy into the situation.  They are allowed to be rough, bite, shake and growl at the toy.  BUT... If they miss the toy and bite me by mistake, I say, "OUCH!" and walk away for 10-15 seconds.  They get three attempts.  On the third mistake, I stop playing with them for at least 20 minutes.

Once a pup is 3-4 months, I no longer allow teeth on skin.  Should a pup make a mistake, I do the following:

1) On the first mistake, I re-direct them to a toy.

2) On the second mistake, they get an "OUCH!" and ignored.

3) On the third mistake, they get put in a confinement area until they calm down.

FINAL NOTE!  

Give your puppy LOTS of toys, bones, and chews!!!

Teach your dog TUG!  

>>>READ MORE ON TUG, CLICK HERE.

Teaching Dogs to "Swim"

Not All Dogs Like Water...

And, not all dogs CAN swim!

But, waders can have fun too!

Tips for Hydrophobic (behaviorally, not clinically) Dogs

If you want your dog to like or love something, you must find a way for them to associate that thing with good things.  If they are too nervous, scared or shy to try the thing you want them to like then you have to start really slow.  

Starting slow means:

REWARD (toys & treats work the fastest) any and all interest in the activity or item.  This can mean praising and treating the dog for looking at the pool of water, moving towards it or sniffing the edge.

REPEAT the same exercise over and over again in SHORT intervals.  Try starting with 5-minutes at a time, then leave and go do something else for 10-15 minutes.  Try 3 or 4 short sessions once or twice a day.

JACKPOT your dog with a huge surprise of yummy treats of an extra special version of a toy (squeaky tennis ball vs. regular ball) for any extra brave attempts or sudden bursts of enthusiasm.

OBSERVE & IMPROVE on the required level of interest only when your dog is clearly ready to move onto the next level.  If they aren't consistently sniff putting one paw on the edge they are NOT ready for putting one paw IN the water.  Wait and keep rewarding just one paw on the edge.  

***Fatal Errors***

Forcing a dog to do something and hoping they will figure out it isn't so bad.

Forcing a dog to do something and then letting them ESCAPE and giving them semi-interesting rewards/good stuff.

Trying to sooth a dog with words and kind petting while they are freaking out.

Forcing a dog to stay in water once they decide to go it = punishment for trying (let them escape so they can do it again).

Filling the pool with a big scary hose while the dog is learning.

Doing swim/play in the bath area.

DO...

Let your dog escape once they go in.

Let your dog decide they are done for the day.

Try using toys/food as a bribe to get in, BUT be sure to REWARD (more treats/play) AFTER the dog gets in even if they pop out.

Use really, really tasty treats or your dog favorite toy.

Start with a shallow pool and clear water with no waves or spray.

kdlanning 
Murrieta, CA

FEBRUARY 26, 2009, 4:52 PM

How do you resolve separation anxiety with a 6 month old puppy? We've left her alone at the house a couple of times and she's torn up the area that we left her at. Thanks.

Dear Six-Months & SepAnxie,

It is unclear from the information that you have given me whether your pup has the disorder called Separation Anxiety or whether you have a very normal, rascally pup who just got bored or frustrated when left alone.  Is that her picture?  She looks very cute.  For both your sakes, I  hope your pup is just a rascal; Separation Anxiety is not easy to fix and rarely gets better without professional help.  

I am a little concerned that she is already 6-months old and has not been left alone more than a few times.  Did you just adopted her?  Are you taking her to work or doggie daycare?  Is someone almost always at home?  Or, have you avoided leaving her alone because of the mess she makes?  

Always staying with or taking along your pup may seem "better."  However, puppies who are not crate/confinement-trained and/or left alone before 3-4 months of age are more likely to vocalize excessively and behave destructively when left alone later in life.  It is not too late to teach her to be alone, but it might take some patience & dedicated training.  Again that she is 6-month and making a mess does not mean she has Separation Anxiety Disorder, she may just be a normal, messy pup.  Even if she does not like being left alone, there is hope.  I hope the post below can guide you.  

Thanks for inquiring,

Kelley

IS YOUR PUPPY PITCHING-A-FIT WHEN LEFT ALONE?

For many owners/guardians it is hard to gauge a "normal" amount of puppy barking, whining, flailing.  This is increasingly hard when one is trying to accomplish crate/confinement-training.  Depending on the dog, it can seem like your puppy is suffering horrifically when you leave her alone.  While it often sounds awful, there is a good degree of hyped up hysterics that can just be ignored.  This is easy for trainers and other dog professionals, but hard for new puppy parents who are justifiably protective of their new pup.

Puppies come pre-programmed with a highly-successful attention-seeking behavior: bark, howl, cry, whine.  When this doesn't work, (because you ignore their barking (look away, stay away, or stop talking, looking or petting) they throw a puppy-temper-tantrum.  This can look and sound downright scary, so it is understandable why owners panic and grope for information about what is happening.  However jumping to a diagnosis of Separation Anxiety for a pup that barks is like determining that someone who ate dinner and then threw up is bulimic.  Let's rule out normal puppy tantrum and learned barking (flu or food poisoning) first. 

Pups can learn that barking gets stuff -AND they learn it quickly at a very young age.  The truth is that most pups who bark, whine, howl, and yip when left alone are just being normal pups.  When they are born pups learn that whining, whimpering and yowling gets them food, relief and warmth.  Later when the pup moves in with people, it must learn that barking does not work.  Ignoring the noise is the only way to teach your pup that barking does NOT work.  

Punishing a pup for barking is a mistake, it will ruin your relationship, and possibly make the dog aggressive.  Or, the dog will learn to bark when no one can get there to deliver a punishment, but will bark freely when you are not around.  It is hard to ignore a barking dog.  Here are some tips.  IGNORE means:  Do not look at, talk to, touch or go towards your pup.  

Do not return to or let your pup out until the pup has completely given up making noise & settles into doing something else, like laying down, chewing, or eating.  When it is time to let your pup out again, praise your pup clearly from outside the room.  Then, go get your puppy.  In this version, once you praise the pup, they get out -even if they make noise once you enter the room.  Use the same phrase each time you praise your dog.  Here is a harder, tough-love version.  Enter the room, leave immediately if your pup starts to make noise again (don't choose this version if your pup has been in there a long time and is ready for a potty-break).

Puppies are messy!  Pups that chew, shred, smear, and gnaw on this are also normal.   There is no fancy label for their behavior, they are just young.  They can, and will make a mess especially if left alone for long periods of time (more than 2-3 hours).  It is not unusual for pups to chew on paper, shred wee-pads, or smear their pee & poop around.  They don't do it on purpose -it just happens to be there when they are romping around and making up their own games.  

There are things you can do to minimize messes.  Unless your pup has caused serious damage to a door, window, gate, crate or worse themselves, they are a normal pup.  Most messes are NOT done in a panic, but that instead the results of a darn good solo-puppy-party!  However, if your dog has done serious damage to a door, window, gate, crate or bloodied their paws or face, then you may have a dog with Separation Anxiety Disorder.

Understanding & DEALING WITH NORMAL PUPPY BARKING

Barking can be done anywhere and so it is the most difficult to manage.  There are many things you can do to channel your pups play-energy into appropriate places.  Exercise, play fetch and tug, Kong-feeding, chew-toys, puppy-proofing, gating, and crating all help minimize and contain a mess.  More importantly a tired pup is a quiet pup.

Confining and/or crating a pup is important and should be done despite the fact that your pup might rather not be away from you.  Toddlers that fuss when put in a car seat do not get to ride on your lap simply because they want to be there.  Eventually kids stop fussing about car seats and seat belts because it fails to work.  However temper tantrums are aweful -they are more than complaints; they are last ditch efforts to get something, or get out of something.  Puppy barking can be very loud if the pup is frustrated.  This can happen when they are learning that what used to work, crying for food, milk, warmth, companionship, is no longer an acceptable way to ask for things (that worked with dog-mom, but not people-parents).  

IF THEY DON'T LIKE IT, DO YOU STILL HAVE TO CRATE/CONFINEMENT-TRAIN YOUR PUPPY?

Yes.  Imagine if you boarded a plane and the person next to you just started sobbing, them screaming and rolling on the ground.  When a baby cries it is annoying, but acceptable age-appropriate behavior.  For an adult to do this instead of asking for a blanket or beverage is abnormal.  The times in your life at which you learned that screaming and crying would not get you things was probably stressful and frustrating for you and your parents.  Crate/confinement-training is not easy, but it is necessary for a well-adjusted dog.

Now that you understand WHY your puppy is barking...

You can TEACH YOUR PUPPY TO BE ALONE!

If you have never left your puppy alone it is important to do everything that you can to set them up for success.

Puppies should have an area that is safe and can be gated-off. If you have a jumper, try stacking two gates. I prefer this to shutting a door. Door need to be opened to see what is happening, and they can be scratched. If you aren't sure... start by stacking two gates so that any jumping attempts will fail.

This area should be easy-to-clean, in case your pup has an accident. Tile and linoleum floor are best. Cement is porous and will absorb odors unless protected with a sealant. The puppy confinement area should be safe. Remove any items of value and anything your pup might chew or make a mess with such as plants, books, baskets, clothing, cleaning items etc...

This area should have a crate. The door can be left open and a comfortable bed can be inside the crate. There should be some water in a spill-proof bowl. You don't want to have to go back because they barked, jumped and knocked over the water. This will give your dog the idea that barking & spilling = mommy and daddy come back.

Try putting your puppy in this area when she is:

EXHAUSTED! Think a 3-hour walk or hike, a doggie-play session at the beach, an afternoon with the kids from the neighborhood.

HUNGRY! I encourage you to skip or go light on a meal or two. It won't hurt the pup if they miss a lunch meal just once.

You should be:

RESTED! Don't do this when you are tired, cranky or short on patience.

READY FOR SOME NOISE! Earphones, movie, music, home-workout.

NOT GOING ANYWHERE! Don't actually leave during or after the first time you do this.

THE PLAN FOR PUPPIES FIRST SUCCESSFUL ALONE-TIME.

1. Skip breakfast, but prepare a really tasty Kong and put it in the fridge.
   
2. Check that the confinement area is fully prepared and puppy-proofed.
   
3. Take your puppy out for a really, really long hike, play session, walk or combination of all of this.
   
4. Bring the pup back home (don't let this be a long nappy car trip (this will undo the exercise).
   
5. Take your pup to their potty area and allow them time to take care of business.
   
6. Go to the kitchen and get the Kong and a few chew items.
   
7. Put the puppy in the confinement area and give them the Kong. Secure the gate (stacking if necessary).
   
8. Walk away and out of the room -IGNORE what you hear.
   
9. Wait until the puppy is quiet for at least 10-15 minutes, then listen (without disturbing).
   

Does it sound like the pup is asleep? Eating from the Kong? Chewing? Congratulations. Now just let your pup out BEFORE they start to cry again.

Feed your pup like this everyday.  Soon they will need only normal amounts of exercise and you can start putting their regular food in the kong with less and less of the really amazing treats.

Do You Have A Training Question For Kelley? Click Here.