Showing 4 posts tagged with "whining"




1.  Crate Training Your Puppy is the fastest way to have a completely house-trained pup.

Taking a puppy out for frequent potty breaks and rewarding the puppy for appropriate elimination is only 1/2 the battle.  Crates teach puppies how to hold their bladder until they are outside the "den" and in the correct place.


2.  Crate Training keeps your puppy safe.  

Puppies can get into anything in a second.  Sometimes it is just annoying when they chew things, but sometimes it is really, really dangerous.  Wires, small ingestible items (I found a green thumb tack in puppy poop once), and certain foods can be dangerous for puppies.


3.  Crate training teaches puppies how to settle down and stay in one spot for a reasonable amount of time.  

If they never practice "chilling out" in one location when they are young, they are unlikely to do it later. Of corse they are young so they will need help settling down.  Chews, kongs, and other food puzzles are excellent items to give to your pup in a crate. 

 


OTHER THOUGHTS

 


 


Puppies can generally hold their bladders for only short periods of time.  

A general rule of thumb is:  1 hr for every month of age.  A 2-month old puppy will need to be let out of the crate for a potty-break somewhere between 1.5 - 2 hrs.


Do not expect your pup to hold it when they are running around.  

A free-roaming pup might pee every 10-30minutes.  Puppies will generally hold their bladder if they are in a small, confined space (your crate).  At about 10-12 weeks I find that most pups can make it through the night without needing a potty-break, but this does not mean that they can "hold it" or be crated for that long during the day.


If your pup has just peed and pooped then spend time with them in the house.  

Supervise them carefully and re-direct them onto their toys if they start to chew on anything inappropriate.  After about 30-minutes your 8-10 week old pup will probably be "feeling the urge."  At this point you can take them out again or crate them for 1hr. so that they have a chance to practice "holding it" until they are taken to the potty spot again.

 

 


 


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This is an email question from a DogTime Blog reader.  It is about a Labrador named Lucy who suddenly became aggressive to her owner during training classes.  


 

The owner stated that Lucy does well with heel, sit & down stay, leave-it unless there is a distraction such as a ball.  "Lucy...  ignores the other toy distractions and only fixates on the balls.   Naturally, she struggles with maintaining her focus on me and my commands during this exercise, but we do have moments of success.  She will leave it, but still maintains a fixated focus and trembles with excitement."  


 

But Trouble is brewing...

 

In the email Lucy's owner reported:  "This week in training Lucy was so agitated during this exercise that she snapped at me 3 times when I corrected her and snapped at other dogs in class.  It is like the training, though having some positive affect, is actually bringing out the worse in my dog."

Lucy's owner is alarmed because, "In her two years, Lucy has never, ever snapped at anyone or any other dog during play or on walks.  I have expressed this concern with the trainer, and her feeling is that this behavior was just in there waiting to come out.  I am just not sure about that explanation and thought I would share my story with someone else."

 


 

I asked Marianne to share more with me about how she is teaching Lucy to LEAVE-IT.

 

Marianne reported:  "We are using a standard slip chain choke collar.  I snap and release the collar to correct.  On the snap, I say "uh uh" (hard to spell that!), then give the command.  For example, to have her ignore a ball or toy, I tell her to "leave it.  If she goes for it, I snap and release the collar, say "uh, uh" and repeat "leave it".

"When she reacts correctly, I give verbal praise in a softer, higher tone of voice, such as "good leave it" or "good heel".  Frequently, during our training, I stroke her and give her positive verbal feedback...no treats until the end of class."

 


 

There are several problems with the way that Marianne is being instructed to teach her dog.  I will summarize my concerns and the errors in the training below.  

 

However, I want to be VERY CLEAR about TWO THINGS.

 

1. Marianne did nothing wrong.  She enrolled her dog training class with someone whom she was told was an expert.  Dog training is still an unregulated field.  Many of us, myself included are looking forward to the day when all trainers will need to be certified and/or licensed.  As it is now, anyone can call themselves a trainer.  There are a few Certifications Programs in the U.S.

 

2. The following is NOT MY OPINION.  Training is a SCIENCE.  This means that there are rules.  While I have my own personal standards for "humane training" I am not at this moment referring to HOW you get the job done.  I am instead referring to HOW ANIMALS LEARN.  A good trainer should have a solid basis in understanding Operant & Classical Conditioning regardless of whether they give out cookies, collar corrections, or both.  Without these fundamentals skills they are not prepared to train a dog.  Would you go to a doctor that you overheard saying: "Veins, Arteries, whatever; they both do blood stuff!"  I didn't think so.

 


So What Is Going On With Lucy?  Is she turning aggressive?

 

For starters, Lucy's aggression was a trained response.  It was unintentional, but it was taught.  Specifically Lucy was taught to HATE seeing Tennis balls in class.  Lucy was being asked to perform a task that she could not do, and because she was not given any guidance on the correct response (look away from the ball) her training looked like this.

Tennis Balls Appear In Class -------> Lucy is subjected to a barrage of jerks, snaps and chokes.

 

Punishment is a crude tool and has the potential for causing aggression.  In this case, Lucy began to associate the tennis ball distraction with pain.  All animals like to avoid pain and at some point will either choose to fight back or flee.  As Lucy was on-leash fleeing was not an option.

 

An even more astonishing is that Lucy was never shown WHAT TO DO.  When I want a dog to perform a Leave-it, I like to focus on what that looks like when the dogs gets it right (look away, sit, look at handler).  There are countless ways to get something wrong, and generally only a few correct responses.  Focussing on the correct response is not just nicer for the dog, but gives faster and eliminates the side-effects (ruined relationship, fearful dog, aggression) of aversive punishments.

 


What I would have done to train Lucy.

 

Bounce a Distraction-ball until Lucy notices the ball.

Have Lucy's owner give the Command (say, "Leave-it") the moment Lucy notices the distraction-ball.

Stop bouncing the Distraction-ball (kindergarten level) & Give Lucy a moment to respond on her own, by looking away.

Help Lucy get it right a few times (look away from the ball) by having the handler produce a Hint (squeaky tennis ball).

Praise Lucy at the exact moment that she looks away from the original distraction-ball (even if she is just listening to the hint).

Reward Lucy with something she really, really wanted A BALL!

Repeat this until Lucy looks away from the original Distraction-ball on her own BEFORE the Hint & reward Lucy with both balls and end the lesson.  Review later and continue to raise the expectations until the hint is no longer needed and the reward is expected to be random.




 


 

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Your dog is NOT being naughty...

 

On purpose,

To get back at you,

Or, because they are trying to dominate you!

 

 

 



Your dog's behavior is not malicious.  

Behavior is a result of past CONSEQUENCES & current MOTIVATIONS.  

 


 

Chances are they...


a) Really DON'T know better.

  • They are acting on instinct (dogs bark, whine and chase things).

  • They are doing what feels best to them (peeing and pooping feels better than holding it).

  • They are repeating something that has worked before (checking the counter for more toast).

     

b) Just don't care.

  • There is no yucky consequences (peeing on rug = relief).

  • The consequence is late or seems unconnected (yell at dog for chewing couch sometime while you were gone).

  • The consequence is actually rewarding the behavior (pushing a dog down for jumping up = touch/attention).

  • Something else is more compelling/appealing at the moment (pulling towards the next great smell is worth the choking sensation).


 


 

Things to think about...

 

Have you ever done something even though you "knew better?"

Have you ever performed poorly at something you "know how to do?"

 


 

 

Have you ever made a bad meal or burnt dinner?

Did you do it to "get back" at someone or as revenge, or was it just the way things went?

Did everyone notice how "in charge" you were of their food enjoyment and "feel subordinate" to you?

 

Have you ever missed a payment or fogotten something important?

Was it to "make a statement" about something, or prove your power?

Did you do it "on purpose" even though you "knew better" and had done it right before?

 

Do you know better than to call in sick when your friend is visiting?  

What is your motivation?  

What is the consequence? 


Are you a "good" driver?

Have you ever sped?

Why, it is "wrong" isn't it?

Have you ever been "sneaky" about when/where you speed?  Why?

 

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Anonymous 

MARCH 6, 2009, 8:06 AM
i have a 3 year old husky who is very spoiled will not eat dog food of any kind and is always crying at you for attention. what can i do ??? Thank you, Maria


Dogs cry, whine and bark because when they do, people give them things.  Sometimes they get HUGE, important, VERY EXCITING things: food, toys, and access to dogs, open spaces,  or favorite people.

A STORY.

The other day at the park, I saw a woman walking her dog.  They were walking casually and every once in a while the woman would stop, bend over, pick up a ball and toss it.  Then the woman with the dog started to chat with a friend.  The dog sat quietly at their feet, staring at his ball.  

 

After a minute he began to whine.  He whined louder and louder until his guardian picked up his ball.  As soon as she had the ball in her hand, he got really, really excited and barked.  She threw the ball anyway and resumed her conversation.  When her dog returned, he dropped the ball at her feet and barked immediately.  This happened 3 or 4 times.  

 

Eventually the woman tried to reason with her dog.  She bent down with her hands on her hips, looked right into his eyes and yelled, "Frankie, Stop-it!"  To this Frankie replied with an barrage of barks, yelps, yips, and a "Woof!"  The woman, shrugged, looked defeated, waved good-bye to her friend and continued walking her dog and tossing the ball.  

 

I giggled and thought I bet the next time she even tries to stop and chat her dog will take the shortcut to the most effective behavior... "Pitch a barking fit and mommy stops chatting and does her job!"  In the story above Frankie did what worked.  Barking got him what he wanted.  He will do more of it.

 


Sometimes we don't give big rewards at all -we "ignore" the bad behavior.  However this only works if you IGNORE the dog COMPLETELY.  This is too hard for most people, they crack and give in like the woman in the story above.  Or, they  unintentionally give hints that they might crack and give into the dog's requests.  

 

When we bend down, look at, or talk to dogs we are telling them that they might get what they want soon.  We don't do this on purpose.  Its just that 99% of the time, right before we give a dog something they will LOVE, like food, walks, toys, pets, play-time or lap-time, we look right at them and talk to them... "Oh, boy Zip.  Here comes....."   So EYE-CONTACT and WORDS aimed at the dog become predictors of wonderful stuff.  In dog-nerd-speak, we call these Secondary Reinforcers.

 

When the owner in the story bent down and looked at Frankie to say, "Stop-it"  She might as well have said, "Do you want me to throw your ball?"  Frankie, in that context (she'd already been rewarding his whines with a ball-toss) was anticipating that she would repeat the action.  When dogs think they know what is going to happen, they don't really listen to the words you say.  

 

If you don't believe me pick up your dog's favorite toy.  Then use your goofiest voice and tell your dog how bad and stupid they have been.  What did your dog do?  Yeah, mine too -just staring at the toy wagging and panting. "Oh, boy, oh boy, she's gonna play squaeky-frisbeeeeee, with meeeee!  Oh, boy, oh boy!"  And I think he's a rather clever dog, but he is a DOG!

 

So, if poor Frankie wasn't really paying attention to her exact words.  When his owner bent down, looked at him and talked to him (instead of her friend) he got REALLY EXCITED and barked back," YES, YES!  Throw the BALL!"

 

Apply this to your situation.  If your dog is crying and you get up and try to give him a toy, food, or attention, then you are giving A HUGE REWARD.  If when your dog whines or cries you look at her and talk to her, you are giving a hint that you MIGHT give them something -this is a type of reward.

 



Regarding the appetite and "SPOILED-DOG" issue.  If the dog is getting a balanced diet and your vet says your dog is in good health, then I don't care if you cook for your dog, or if they never eat food from a bag or can or bowl.  However, if your dog is only eating junk food then the diet is not balanced and your dog will be unhealthy.  To address the issue you will need to:

  1. Stop feeding your dog all kinds of cookies, treats and junk-food!  Dogs can't shop or cook, so if they are eating badly, someone is providing the food and/or the opportunity.

  2. Get tough!  Put down the food your dog is suppose to eat and if they don't eat it, pick it up and try again at the next meal.  Unlike cats, dogs cannot get sick from not eating.  Your dog will not stave herself.  She will eventually eat!  

  3. Be reasonable.  If the food in the can looks bad, smells bad or you have a hard time looking at it or touching it, pick a better looking, tasting high-quality dog food.  In general, high quality dog foods come from pet supply stores, not a grocery stores.




 

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