Hi Kelley,
I am interested in your ideas and teaches learning about your knowledge on training tips for dogs. I have german shepherd solid black and he is now 5 mos. old. I have a very big problem on him; he eats his feces whenever he urg's his butt he turned around, smell it and grab!! ew!. What i always did is i keep on eye with him whenever he had a heavy play after sometime when turned around by itself then it will be. When he started to smell it i will immediately shouted to him "NO" then he leave and play again. Please help, what should i do? because when i am not around he still eat his feces.
Jo-ann G. Neri
Philippines
Dear Jo-ann,
I know that Poop Eating (Coprophagia) is a disgusting behavior, but it is unlikely to MAKE your dog sick, so at least you can let that worry go. It will be easier for you and your dog if you remain calm during training -even if he relapses. The causes of Coprophagia are not fully understood. However, veterinarians, behaviorists and trainers generally agree that it is a behavioral problem. On the other side of the coin, there are a handful illnesses that can cause coprophagia (poop eating), but they generally present with more symptoms, including diarrhea. To be on the safe-side, take your dog to the vet, especially if your dog has diarrhea and or has not been to the vet for vaccinations.
Once you know your dog is healthy, the following training plan should help.
1. Know that STRESS is the enemy. Your dog is very young and he may still be nervous, or stressed out about going to the bathroom. Stress is the cause of many undesirable canine behaviors. Believe it or not, there is a lot that can stress a 5-month old a puppy. They are learning to hold their bladder and bowels, as opposed to just going whenever they feel like it. They are also still in the process of learning when and where they may go to the bathroom. I know your shepherd is getting big, but he is still a baby. Potty-training a pup can be frustrating, but avoid punishing mistakes. Instead tighten up on management and forgive mistakes.
2. Do NOT let GOOD BEHAVIOR go unnoticed. Reward your dog every time he goes to the bathroom in the appropriate place. As soon as your dog has finished PEEING or POOPING, use your best happy voice to praise him. Then feed him a tasty treat. Toss a second treat away from the poop to distract your dog while you remove the poop with a scoop or bag. If you have already been doing this, continue and make sure that you do it for BOTH pees and poops. I would skip shouting "No!" this could cause more stress. Just wiggle the dog treat and praise your dog, so that his attention is on you and he leaves the poop alone.
3. CLEAN UP! Always join your dog on potty walks so that you can reward your dog and scoop the poop immediately.
4. INCREASE EXERCISE & MENTAL STIMULATION. Make sure that your dog is getting plenty of vigorous exercise each day. A 5-month old Shepherd could probably use at least two 1-hour play sessions each day. This means running, fetching, hiking, playing with dogs. More is always better. And, when you leave your dog alone, make sure that your dog has plenty of things to CHEW. Bones and Kongs are best.
5. Try adding a supplement to your dog's food so that the poop will be unappealing to your dog. There are several products, listed below, but I have also heard various recommendations on adding enzymes to your dog's food. The theory is that if poop-eating is caused by under-digestion (eat the poop to give a second go at getting all the nutrients), then the enzymes help the food become more digestible.
At this point, regardless of the CAUSE, there is also a BAD HABIT. I recommend trying the supplements IN ADDITION to doing the behavior modification work. If you are only going to do one, try the behavior stuff first (its free), then buy a supplement if there is no change in behavior after 3-weeks.
- Forbid (TM)(R)
- Deter (TM)(R)
- Papaya, Fig or Pinneaple (These food contain enzymes that break down amino acids).
- Meat Tenderizer (from a grocery store) contains enzymes that break down protein.
Elberta, AL
FEBRUARY 4, 2009, 11:27 AM
I love your advice and use it all the time with our 7 month old belgian malinois. The removal without anger works great EXCEPT when he grabs a sock, piece of paper, paper towel or clothes and runs. I don't chase him, he'd think that is fun, my problem is I can't just ignore it so when I approach from the side calmly he doesn't run but he has a death grip and won't give it up even for treats or his fav toy. Any ideas would really be appreciated. He does have lots of various toys, gets lots of exercise and traing and is very smart. Thanks in advance. Trainer in training, Lisa
Dear Trainer-In-Training,
This is a great question, thanks for bringing it up. From what you have described, you have made some great choices.
- You are NOT chasing your dog. I agree, he would think that is fun.
- You are approaching him casually and TRYING TO TRADE TREATS for the ITEM.
- You have supplied your dog with HIS OWN TOYS.
The motivational issue.
The stolen Item TRUMPS (are better than) even the BEST toy.
The stolen Item is better than the TREATS you have tried.
The stolen is more fun (it was hunted & caught) than TOYS.
The management issue.
Tighten way up on shutting doors to bathrooms, bedrooms, or laundry rooms.
Pick-up and remove any items that are not expendable (if they are around, you are willing to loose them).
A possible health concern.
If your dog has ever tried to consume the stolen item, it could lead to intestinal blockage or surgery.
Dogs who excel at passively guarding (no growling, biting, snapping) are usually prone to try maintaining possession by engulfing.
>>>>If this is a concern, please read about MANAGEMENT OPTIONS FOR ENGULFERS.
My major suggestions would be:
TIGHTEN UP on MANAGEMENT. For the next 2-weeks your dog will need NO ACCESS to preferential items (the ones that have been stolen in the past).
TEACH your dog THE GAME of TUG. Follow the instructions and really focus on teaching DROP.
>>>>Read more here on PLAYING TUG WITH YOUR DOG.
Create a BACK-UP PLAN.
- Have some really amazing treats (steak comes to mind).
- Set your dog up. Deliberately leave an old-expendable sock in a steal-location, or drop it "by accident."
- Say, "TRADE YOU!"
- Then go to the fridge (yep walk away from your dog) and get the goodies.
- Without saying anything more, toss (stay as far away from your dog as you can) the yummy-steak treats AND WALK AWAY.
- If your dog appears WITHOUT the ITEM... Praise your dog like mad and give MORE TREATS.
- Tether, crate, or confine your dog and then go recover the item.
Do this until the dog spits out the item as soon as you toss the treats.
DO NOT touch the item or try to take it if your dog is still holding it, or standing over it.
Continue to work DROP with the tug toy, then try DROP with a sock that you are holding.
Anonymous
MARCH 6, 2009, 8:06 AM
i have a 3 year old husky who is very spoiled will not eat dog food of any kind and is always crying at you for attention. what can i do ??? Thank you, Maria
Dogs cry, whine and bark because when they do, people give them things. Sometimes they get HUGE, important, VERY EXCITING things: food, toys, and access to dogs, open spaces, or favorite people.
A STORY.
The other day at the park, I saw a woman walking her dog. They were walking casually and every once in a while the woman would stop, bend over, pick up a ball and toss it. Then the woman with the dog started to chat with a friend. The dog sat quietly at their feet, staring at his ball.
After a minute he began to whine. He whined louder and louder until his guardian picked up his ball. As soon as she had the ball in her hand, he got really, really excited and barked. She threw the ball anyway and resumed her conversation. When her dog returned, he dropped the ball at her feet and barked immediately. This happened 3 or 4 times.
Eventually the woman tried to reason with her dog. She bent down with her hands on her hips, looked right into his eyes and yelled, "Frankie, Stop-it!" To this Frankie replied with an barrage of barks, yelps, yips, and a "Woof!" The woman, shrugged, looked defeated, waved good-bye to her friend and continued walking her dog and tossing the ball.
I giggled and thought I bet the next time she even tries to stop and chat her dog will take the shortcut to the most effective behavior... "Pitch a barking fit and mommy stops chatting and does her job!" In the story above Frankie did what worked. Barking got him what he wanted. He will do more of it.
Sometimes we don't give big rewards at all -we "ignore" the bad behavior. However this only works if you IGNORE the dog COMPLETELY. This is too hard for most people, they crack and give in like the woman in the story above. Or, they unintentionally give hints that they might crack and give into the dog's requests.
When we bend down, look at, or talk to dogs we are telling them that they might get what they want soon. We don't do this on purpose. Its just that 99% of the time, right before we give a dog something they will LOVE, like food, walks, toys, pets, play-time or lap-time, we look right at them and talk to them... "Oh, boy Zip. Here comes....." So EYE-CONTACT and WORDS aimed at the dog become predictors of wonderful stuff. In dog-nerd-speak, we call these Secondary Reinforcers.
When the owner in the story bent down and looked at Frankie to say, "Stop-it" She might as well have said, "Do you want me to throw your ball?" Frankie, in that context (she'd already been rewarding his whines with a ball-toss) was anticipating that she would repeat the action. When dogs think they know what is going to happen, they don't really listen to the words you say.
If you don't believe me pick up your dog's favorite toy. Then use your goofiest voice and tell your dog how bad and stupid they have been. What did your dog do? Yeah, mine too -just staring at the toy wagging and panting. "Oh, boy, oh boy, she's gonna play squaeky-frisbeeeeee, with meeeee! Oh, boy, oh boy!" And I think he's a rather clever dog, but he is a DOG!
So, if poor Frankie wasn't really paying attention to her exact words. When his owner bent down, looked at him and talked to him (instead of her friend) he got REALLY EXCITED and barked back," YES, YES! Throw the BALL!"
Apply this to your situation. If your dog is crying and you get up and try to give him a toy, food, or attention, then you are giving A HUGE REWARD. If when your dog whines or cries you look at her and talk to her, you are giving a hint that you MIGHT give them something -this is a type of reward.
Regarding the appetite and "SPOILED-DOG" issue. If the dog is getting a balanced diet and your vet says your dog is in good health, then I don't care if you cook for your dog, or if they never eat food from a bag or can or bowl. However, if your dog is only eating junk food then the diet is not balanced and your dog will be unhealthy. To address the issue you will need to:
-
Stop feeding your dog all kinds of cookies, treats and junk-food! Dogs can't shop or cook, so if they are eating badly, someone is providing the food and/or the opportunity.
-
Get tough! Put down the food your dog is suppose to eat and if they don't eat it, pick it up and try again at the next meal. Unlike cats, dogs cannot get sick from not eating. Your dog will not stave herself. She will eventually eat!
-
Be reasonable. If the food in the can looks bad, smells bad or you have a hard time looking at it or touching it, pick a better looking, tasting high-quality dog food. In general, high quality dog foods come from pet supply stores, not a grocery stores.
EVEN A LOUD-MOUTHED HOUND CAN LEARN TO HUSH!
But... When facing fierce competition (instinct, drive, or breeding) you need the right tool for the job.
MARCH 4, 2009, 10:40 AM
Hi! We have a 4-year-old Beagle/Basset Mix that we re-homed about 3 months ago. He seems to be adjusting well. But he does bark a lot! We have done some training with him and he no longer barks in the house unless he's really excited (fair enough!). But outside... he barks constantly. Our "QUIET" command with claps, wistles, or shaking a jar of pennies, does nothing. How can we curb such an instinctual habit? ~Colleen
Dear Colleen,
The reason your "QUIET" command is not working outside is because (in its current state) it is not the right tool for the job.
Here is an analogy:
When hanging a new picture of my dog, I might take a shortcut. I'd take off my shoe and pound the nail into the wall using the heel. This works great! However, I am clearly NOT using the appropriate tool Now imagine you asked me to build a house, and that I set about pounding nails with my clog -stupid I agree, but I'm making a point. If I then came to you and told you that the house could not be built because I couldn't get the nails through the 2-by-4's you would likely point out that the "hammer" I was using was not really a hammer. If I was like many of my clients I would then argue, "No it works, I've done it lots, but these wood boards are being stubborn!" I don't fault clients that argue when I try to tell them that the command they think they have taught, really means nothing to their dog. Sometimes it really does look like our dogs are stubborn, but the truth is they just don't understand. This is a "tool" problem, NOT a dog problem.
I believe you. I am sure that your QUIET-command is working inside, just like my clog works on small nails and sheetrock. However, just because it works in some situations, does not prove that it means to your dog what you think it means. In fact, because it is NOT working outside at all we have pretty good proof that this is the case. It does NOT mean what you think it means. Confusing?
For you, QUIET means: Stop Barking.
But what you've taught your dog is: QUIET means I am going to make a really loud, scary noise.
This startles your dog, giving you the result you want -he stops barking. However, he has not learned to BE QUIET. Learning only happens when a behavior is expected to have a specific consequence because of a previous reward history. Here is a scientific fact. Behaviors that are reinforced (rewarded) go up in frequency. I am guessing you have NOT rewarded him with any tangible, valuable thing when he does shut up. This would mean that AFTER shaking the can, at the moment that your dog stops barking, you must praise him like mad and then give him a huge, wonderful treat.
Your Training looks like this:
"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt)
Quiet = Loud Noise.
The loud noise is either, simply a distraction that gets your dog's attention, thereby interrupting the barking. Or, the loud noise is aversive to your dog. Aversive-actions make behavior go down in frequency, but your dog still does not know what QUIET means. He just knows that QUIET is the clue that something aweful is about to happen next, so he stops barking to buckle for the storm of crazy sounds. Either way all you have done is classically conditioned your dog that QUIET predicts the inevitable loud noise.
What you need is:
"QUIET" (command) ---->LOUD NOISE (startle-prompt) ----> "GOOD-BOY" (marks success) ----> REWARD (reinforces behavior)
In this equation the noise is a startle/distraction that makes a certain behavior happen (still and quiet dog). Now you have an opportunity to TEACH your dog that the Praise & Treat come after QUIET & after they STOP barking. You need to re-teach this to your dog INSIDE, Then you can apply it outside. When your dog is outside his hunting motivation out-weighs his concern about the scary, loud noise. Your dog is just more motivated to bay and bark (instinct and drive contribute) than he is concerned with a scary noises when he is in hunting mode. Incidentally this could be in his genes too; hunting dogs that startle to loud noises, like guns, when on the hunt make for poor hunting dogs. For now start calling your dog a LOT when outside and praise and treat him. Do this BEFORE he is in HUNT-mode AND practice QUIET (with the above improvements) inside.
For more on this read my post on TRAINING A DOG WITH STRONG INSTINCTS>>>> Click here.
WHAT TO DO -INSTALLING A "QUIET!" COMMAND... that your dog can understand!
Fill a container with some VERY, TASTY DOG TREATS (I recommend using dehydrated beef or chicken liver).
- When your dog barks, say "HUSH!" -You only need to say this once! You can use QUIET, but remember that already has a previously conditioned response (buckle for the storm), so I would pick a new word :)
- Then as fast as you can, find the cookie-can. Start rattling the cookie-can. This is NOT to scare your dog, but to EXCITE THEM --COOKIE-TIME!!!
- Start moving towards your dog (wherever they are barking) show them the goodies. While still shaking the jar, try to lure them away from the door, window or hallway. Lead them to a bed or dog-mat.
- Give your dog one TREAT right away.
- Grab 5-more treats, but hold onto them in your hand.
- Have your dog do some really easy "nerdy-obedience." Pick a favorite trick or do the easy stuff: sit, down -NOTHING HARD!!!!
- Give your dog a treat for each correct answer.
- Do this for 1-2 weeks.
*Try to lead your dog to the same spot each time.
When your dog beats you to the bed or dog-mat... (Or, starts booking it to the spot when you say HUSH!)
- Spill 5-10 treats on the bed or dog-mat.
- Don't make them do any "nerdy-obedience."
- Repeat this for 1-2 weeks.
- Alternate between "nerdy-obedience" if you have to lure them there or go get them & SPILL-TREATS if they beat you there.
Now for Grad School....
- If they book it to the spot when you say "HUSH!" Give them the SPILL.
- If they bark just once after you say, "HUSH!" slam the cookie jar shut and walk off in a huff (no cookies).
The good news... It is NOT Dominance!
The EVEN BETTER NEWS...
IT'S SEX!
That's RIGHT. Humping (despite the obvious implications -that it probably feels good) is S. E. X.
Sex! Sex! Sex! Sex! Did you know that dogs, like most creatures, need to have sex to reproduce?
Reproduction is just one of those things that pops out in play. Play-time is just a rehearsal stage for all of life's survival skills.
During play-time your dog will:
- Play-fight
- Play-hunt
- Play-kill
- Play-mate
For more on Humping >>>> Read my new favorite book, Oh Behave! by Jean Donaldson, author and director of The SF SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers.
WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 25, 2009 6:22 PM
