A Basket Muzzle can be used to prevent a dog from biting, but it is not to be used as a replacement for addressing the problem, or for contacting a certified trainer.
A light-weight basket muzzle is always the best option when the dog will be participating in an physical exercise such as walking or playing.
It is also the best choice when the dog will or may be wearing the muzzle for longer than a few minutes, or for management of a lifetime problem such as Lack of Bite Inhibition (see below).
In general a muzzle is used when there is a history of the dog's bite having caused damage such as scratches or punctures.
A muzzle may also be used with a dog who has not yet bitten, but who is showing clear warning signals that they are likely to bite such as GROWLING, SNARLING or SNAPPING (especially if the aggression is directed at people).
Dogs who show signs of aggression, but whose Bite Inhibition is not known, may also need to wear a muzzle. Because a dog who has not bitten has Unknown Bite Inhibition, it can not be determined how seriously the dog may bite.
Some dogs, especially those socialized well as puppies, will use their teeth and jaws and cause little to no damage. Other dogs, those with Poor Bite Inhibition, will leave punctures, tear the skin, or worse bite multiple times with deep punctures and tearing.
Good Bite Inhibition means that the dog causes little or no damage. It is possible for a dog to have bitten many times and have Good Bite Inhibition. It is also possible for a dog who rarely fights, or almost never bites to have Poor Bite Inhibition. Dogs who almost never fight/bite, but who have cause damage (punctures needing medical or veterinary care) should always be muzzled when around the people or dogs they may harm.
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Contact Kelley @ amigodog@mac.com
Kelley Filson, CTC, CPDT is a Certified Dog Trainer living in San Francisco, California. Kelley has been certified by The San Francisco SPCA where she completed the prestigious Academy for Dog Trainers run by dog trainer and author Jean Donaldson. Kelley is also a Certified Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.
Kelley owns and runs AmiGO DOG Training, LLC. As a Personal Dog Trainer Kelley helps people and dogs better understand each other. Private, in-home dog training and behavior modification programs are available to anyone in San Francisco needing help training their dogs. Kelley specializes in working with fearful, aggressive, or anxious dogs.
Kelley is also very happy to be a partner and instructor for DogEvolve. DogEvolve offers classes and workshops to dog owners at two San Francisco locations. Unlike traditional 6-8weeek obedience classes, DogEvolve offers an a-la-carte style menu of classes on topics including: Quiet! Come! & Leash Monsters!
AmiGO DOG Training, LLC -Your "Best-Friend" in Dog Training!
415-356-9868
DogEvolve -Survival Training for the Urban Dog!
www.dogevolve.com
Bumble-Bees Taste... OUCHY!!!!!
Sometimes your dog's drive to get something... will over-rule an unpleasant consequence.
Today this little Setter (Bird-Dog Extraordinaire) discovered that Bumble-Bees are low-flying, slow-moving birds. She caught one and it bit back, but she kept hunting them, and catching them for the rest of the walk. It would be like if asking you not to reach into hot water for $100 bills. Your hand could be bright red, but you'd probably keep going.
Just another reason why training with motivation is important for you and your dog. Giving consequences (even unpleasant ones) won't always work. Sometimes you need to give your dog access to what they need/want. When safe this is always best, but food and toys can be used as surrogate prey to satisfy a hunting instinct. The BEST way to build a relationship AND train your dog to listen is with rewards.
F is for Fetch!
Like apple pie and picnics on the 4th of July, playing fetch is an American pastime, but what if your dog won't bring back the toy?
If your dog likes chasing balls, frisbees, or other toys, you can probably teach them to bring the toy back. If your dog has NO interest in the toy, your job will be harder and you might just start by experimenting with different toys, movements and sounds to see if you can pique your dog's interest.
Generally I categorize FETCH PROBLEMS into two categories.
1. The dog gets the toy, but then runs away with it instead of bringing it back.
2. The dog chases, but rarely picks up the toy.
If your dog gets the toy, but then runs off... Try attaching a long rope to your dog. Toss the toy only the distance of the rope and when your dog has the toy, see if you can gently REEL IN YOUR DOG. Once your dog gets to you, give them a huge reward, such as playing tug, or giving them a yummy treat. Then toss the toy again.
If your dog chases, but won't pick-up the toy... You need to start smaller. Instead of throwing the toy, try tossing it on the ground right in front of you. If the dog looks at, pounces on, or bites the toy, CHEER and then reward your dog with tug, or another treat. Once your dog learns to pick up the toy, run backwards from them slowly and see if you can get them to come to you with the toy just a few steps at a time.
IN THE GAME OF FETCH THE TOY TOSS (AND SUBSEQUENT CHASE) IS THE REWARD. THE DOG CHAINS THE EVENTS TOGETHER AND BRINGS THE TOY BACK SO THAT THEY CAN CHASE IT AGAIN.
If your dog isn't picking up the toy, they likely don't see the point. This is because they already enjoyed chasing it. Chasing happens first, but it is actually the reward. Dogs that pick up the toy and return it back the toy do so because it makes it possible to chase it again. Focus on getting the toy to you.
If your dog is running off with the toy, they like being chased by you better than they like chasing the toy. In this situation you must stop chasing the dog and help show them how to get back to you.
>>MORE ON... Playing Tug With Your Dog
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Lately there seems to be an excessive number of people "totally freaked out" that they have/will lose all control of their dog's behavior because they can't seem to get the dog to walk behind them and/or the dog is "not allowing them" through doors first.
1) Dogs do not have a covert agenda! The are just faster than us, and unless they have a good reason to slow down (training) they are going to pull and push.
2) First is not always best! If you were testing a new type of parachute --would you really want to be the first one out the plane???
3) Like all things you want your dog to do, you must take time to teach them, you can't simply expect a new behavior.
What I care about when walking my dogs.
1) No one pulls my arm out. As long as the leash is loose, with some slack and my hands and arms are comfortable, I don't care if the dog is in front, next to, or behind me. >>>READ HERE FOR MORE ON PULLING<<<
2) If I call a dog's name, they stop and look at me. This is hugely helpful in a variety of situations, but takes practice to get in distracting environments (another dog barking).
3) If I say, "Leave-it" my dog lifts his or her head off what they are sniffing or turns their face away from what they are staring at and we move on down the path.
That said, if you want to teach your dog to walk in a certain position, next to you; or, if you would prefer, for the safety of your dog, to go through doors first, you can TEACH THESE BEHAVIORS. This means you will need to consider:
1) How will you show your dog what you want?
2) What you will give your dog if they are getting it right, or close to right (especially in the beginning). Think: What does my dog want?
3) What will you take away, or not give your dog if they make a mistake. Think: How can you make your dog's brain say, "That didn't work."
