SHAKING & YAWNING: These behaviors mean more than you might think.
Of course, dogs shake when they are wet, but have you ever noticed that dogs sometimes shake when they aren't even outside? Shaking and yawning are both behaviors that dogs do frequently after stressful situations. Shaking and yawning are transition signals -they indicate a shift in demeanor.
I typically see YAWNS, when I am waiting for a particular behavior from a dog. They tend to happen right before the dog "gives in" or acquiesces to what I ask or expect them to do.
For example the other day I was at a curb and the dog I was training really, really wanted to get to the other side of the street -the park was there. I said, "Sit." The dog did not sit, so we backed away from the curb. We approached again. I repeated the command, but the dog, in her excitement, could not sit. We backed away five more times. Then, on the eighth attempt, when approaching the curb, the dog let out a BIG YAWN and then, sat down. I cheered and we bolted across the street to the park!
SHAKING typically happens after a "stressful event," such as a small scuffle between two dogs, after getting a time-out, or after having attempted to do something that was a little frightening.
For example my clients new puppy jumped up on the counter in the kitchen and we gave her a TIME-OUT. She was already dragging a leash so we said, "Too-bad" and lead her to the stairs where we clipped her to the banister for 10 seconds. When we returned and unclipped her, she shook her whole body. It is if she let out a big sigh and let her disappointment go. Then she was her bubbly, puppy self again (but without putting her paws on the counter :)
In another situation, a 3-month old puppy was meeting some new people. He was kind of interested, but nervous. He kept approaching the group of people with his body low and then backing away quickly. Finally he went over and took a treat from one person's hand. He ate it, but Immediately backed away and shook his whole body. It was obvious to me that he was more than just a little shy, he was seriously stressed out and scared. The evidence of his stress was the shake. Rather than continue to stress out the puppy, we went real easy and had the group of people toss treats to him for about 15 minutes. Suddenly his head and tail were up and the pup was approaching people for treats and taking them with no shaking.
Pay attention to what your dogs are telling you.
YAWNING & SHAKING mean things.
Learn to listen with your eyes and you'll improve your relationship with your dog.
E is for Enough!
There is nothing as fun for me or my dogs as a good rowdy play session, but sometimes... "Enough, is Enough!"

Even when dogs are playing well together, it can get loud and tumble-bumble. My clients with 2 or more dogs really enjoy it when we teach the dogs how to listen for and head the command, "ENOUGH!" This command means: You are getting too loud, or too rough; if you tone it down, you may continue playing. If the dogs continue with the same level of energy and enthusiasm the referee (me) will put one or both dogs in a penalty box (or appropriate time-out area).
Teaching a dog to respond to "Enough!"
Phase-1
1. Prepare some biscuits and keep them handy where your dogs play.
2. In the middle of play-time, clearly ANNOUNCE: "Alright... That's ENOUGH!"
3. Then, get the biscuits (a large tin that makes noise when you shake it works great).
4. Open the biscuit jar and give your dogs a mini-adrenaline-break. Have them do some nerdy obedience like sit, down, sit. Feed the dog that listens best or performs the fastest.
5. Then release your dogs to go play. They will likely reengage at a slower speed.
6. Repeat this often, for about 1-week during all play sessions.
7. If your dogs hear, "That's Enough" and immediately prepare for a nerdy obedience break, you are ready for Phase-2.
Phase-2
1. When your dogs are playing, say "That's Enough!"
2. Reward the dog that calms down first with a "Nice job, dog's name!" Follow it with a biscuit for that dog.
3. Release everyone to go play again.
4. If one or both dogs re-engages at the same intensity, say "Too-bad!"
5. Then separate the dogs. You can put each dog on a tie-down or time out dog out in a bathroom or laundry room. Just make sure they can't play.
6. After 5-10 minutes, allow the dogs to "Try-Again."
7. Allow them to play and when it gets rough, say "Enough!"
8. If they listen and calm down, praise, treat and release to play again. If they don't say "Too-bad and end play-time again by using the "Too-bad"/Time-out Routine.
Dogs are generally not on their best behavior when the leash is tight. I frequently see tense situations turn into nasty situations by owners whose intensions are clearly good, but misguided. While it is completely understandable and natural for a handler to pull a dog back from a potentially stressful situation, the unfortunate reality is that pulling a dog back encourages them to lunge forward aggressively.
If your dog is a puller and you can't keep the leash loose, try a humane, no-pull harness or head-halter.
If your dog is almost always lunging forward at people or dogs while barking, growling or snapping, by all means, PLEASE contact a Certified Dog Trainer who understands and uses Reward Based Training Techniques and Classical Conditioning to treat fear & aggression. Truely fear-aggressive dogs may need several to many sessions to improve.
Some dogs are naughty, but NOT FEARFUL. These dogs are usually lunging because they feel stuck or are anticipating an uncomfortable amount of tension on a leash, or worse yet, a snap or jerk of the leash. Trainers sometimes look like miracle workers when they take control of the leash and a previously barking, lunging dog turns into a polite, playful dog. This is usually the case with NON-FEARFUL dogs who respond well to what is often called the JOLLY-ROUTINE.
If your dog is generally playful--especially when off-leash, but lunges or growls sometimes at dogs when ON-LEASH, try the following (we call it the Jolly Routine):
To keep the leash loose, try calling your dog when they see a dog. Then walk backwards. Don't wait for your dog, just start taking steps backwards. You will still be facing the dog your dog sees, but you are moving backwards.
When your dog's body finally turns to face you, praise with a cheery, goofy voice.
Keep praising your dog -BE JOLLY and start moving forward.
Go quickly and walk PAST the dog, still being JOLLY. Stop only once you are about a foot past the dog's tail. Pause and then KEEP GOING! Praise and reward your dog--food is BEST.
It may take your dog a few tries before they learn the new system. If they have a slip-up, don't yell anything naughty at the dog, IGNORE IT. If things are not better in 1-week, contact a trainer
This is a common problem. Check out my class entirely dedicated to helping people with LEASH MONSTERS!
This article is for those who have already read these postings:
Are off-leash parks and fenced dog parks safe for your small dog?
What is Predatory Drift?
Should dogs of different sizes be allowed to play together?
Have I seen Predatory Drift?
Many people witness Predatory Drift without knowing what they have seen; frequently it is mislabeled as a routine dog fight. So, what might Predatory Drift look like? Here are some scenarios.
The scenarios below are made up to illustrate what can happen. They are based on incidents that I have witnessed or heard about from colleagues. I have tried very hard to be descriptive, but not graphic. If you have witnessed or lost a dog to Predatory Drift you may not want to read. My intent is not to shock or upset, but to give the reader the opportunity to grasp an understanding of a phenomenon that poses a real risk to small dogs.
Several medium and large dogs playing in an open area -all the dogs are well behaved and playing appropriately. The owners and guardians are interacting with the dogs and monitoring the play. Nearby several small dogs are playing they are tiny but wrestling loudly and roughly. All the dogs are having fun.
Suddenly the small dogs are fighting and one of the little dogs (not even in the fight, but scared) starts screaming and running to her owner. The large dogs, startled by the commotion, stop playing. Suddenly two of the large dogs are running very fast, directly for the small dog that is screaming. The small dog is the treated as if it was a bunny.
This can happen with a puppy or any small dog.
In another scenario the small dog and the large dog are playing together. They chase, wrestle and play very nicely for about 15 minutes. Suddenly during chase the small dog looks scared and starts running quickly in one direction and does not turn to bow and return chase. As the small dog continues running it looks more and more panicked and the larger dog looks more and more serious. The game is no longer a game -the instinct to catch small prey and kill it has been triggered.
Not all scenarios are this slow to build, a large dog can grab and shake any small dog quickly without any warning. Dog fights can be broken-up because there is much noise and posturing and little contact. However, when a large dog grabs a small dog like prey, it will grab it by the neck and shake it. It can take as little as one shake to break a neck.
Finally a couple stops at a corner of a grassy park to let their small dog play. The small dog, while rabbit-sized is genetically a predator and has little instincts for prey-animal freeze (play possum) or flight (squirrely escape). In another corner of the park a large dog catches sight of the small dog bouncing and prancing in the grass. Unlike dogfights, which are loud and proceeded by warning barks and growls, incidents of Predatory Drift are silent and swift. The small dog has no more chance than a rabbit caught by a coyote or wolf.
If you have not read the articles above, please read them now.
If you own a Chihuahua or small Poodle, Yorkie, Maltese, or even a feisty, little Terrier you should be aware that they are at risk when playing with OR NEAR large dogs. Some people, in some situations, feel confidant taking this risk. But equating a ‘calculated risk,' with "safe" is unacceptable.
Poll the average dog owner/guardian whose small dog is brave and playful and they see no problem with allowing "well behaved, well-trained" dogs of vastly different sizes to play near each other or with one another. In fact, they often think it is cute. Almost no one but trainers and very good dog walkers seem to know about Predatory Drift.




